Battles With Giant Fish

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(LIBRARY)

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BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Ji£ADV SHORTLY

MY VOYAGE TO
THE UNKNOWN

BV

LADY RICHMOND BROWN

F.L.S., F.2.S., P.R.G.S., F.R.A.I.

Profusely Illustrated from Photographs by the
Author,

This volume, companion to Mr. Mitchell
Hedges’s " Battles with Giant Fish,” deals
with other remarkable results of the same
adventurous expedition.

DUCKWORTH & CO.

LONDON

THE AUTHOR AND HIS NATIVE FISHERMAN ON A CORAL KVMV IN
THE CAUIHHFAN.

BATTLES WITH
GIANT FISH

BY

F. A. MITCHELL HEDGES

F.L.S., F.Z.S., F.R.G.S., F.R.A.I.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY
LADY RICHMOND BROWN

DUCKWORTH & CO.

3 HENRIETTA STREET, LONDON, W.C.

JFirst !Pf 4 .blished i'n 1923
A.II Rights Rmserved

MmdU mnd JPrintMd in Great Britain
by HaMsll^ Watson S- Viney, Zd., X-ondon and Aylesbury,

TO

LADY RICHMOND BROWN

A “ DAMNED GOOD SPORTSMAN,” WITHOUT
WHOSE INSPIRATION AND HELP THESE BATTLES
WOULD BE YET UNFOUGHT. THE BEST OR
WORST OF ANY INDIVIDUAL COMES OUT IN THE
PRIMITIVE WILDS, AND IT IS TO “ ONE OF THE
BEST ” I PAY A GRATEFUL TRIBUTE IN THIS

BOOK

You*ve seen nature's mighty grandeurs
'Midst a roaring hell of waters ;

Lived in the great wide spaces.

Your canopy the skies.

Go back to where the Golden Calf
Cannot hold your soul in bondage ;

Do things just for the doing.

Peace and happiness your prize,

F. A. M. H.

5

INTRODUCTION

In writing this book I have done my best to draw a
picture of the strange life which exists beneath the
surface of the Seven Seas. It is a world of its own, in
many ways stranger than that on land.

It would be impossible to describe accurately in
words the grotesque and remarkable appearance of
many of these inhabitants of the deep seas. I have
often been asked : “ How large do you think the biggest
fish grow? ” and my answer is always : ‘‘I haven’t
the slightest idea, but they undoubtedly weigh many
tons.”

Big game hunting has of late years lost much of its
attraction, largely owing to the fact that modern arms
have been conducive to indiscriminate slaughter, and
that the sport has to-day become confined to those
who are fortunate enough to have a well-lined purse.
Big game fishing and the hunting of beasts in their
marine home is still in its infancy. There is a thrill
and danger attached to it which will be welcomed by
all true sportsmen ; and one need have no compunction
in ridding the ocean of certain species, for nothing
living to-day on land can compare with the savagery
and ruthlessness of — ^as an example — ^the tiger shark.

There has been no need for me to write a technical
description of the best tackle to be employed, and the
method of fishing in the ordinary way, as this has been
so fully and completely dealt with in that remarkably
interesting book Modern Sea Angling, by Mr. F. D.
Holcombe, the well-known Honorary Secretary of the
British Sea Anglers’ Society, as to leave nothing further
for one to add.

Mr. Holcombe has placed before the angling fraternity

7

8 INTRODUCTION

the practical observations and work of a lifetime,
coupled with the authentic data which he has been in
a unique position to obtain.

I can only add that it will always be a pleasure to
give any information I can to my brother anglers.

F. A. M. H.

Sandbanks,

Parkstone,

Dorset.

CONTENTS

BOOK I

CBAPXBR PAOB

I. MONSTERS OF THE DEEP — PREHISTORIC AND

PRESENT SEA LIFE . . . . I7

II. THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT ADVEN-
TURE ...... 23

III. THE WONDERS OF THE BLACK RIVER —

FOUR-HOUR BATTLE WITH A MIGHTY
TARPON ...... 30

IV. HOW WE CAUGHT THE GREAT RED SNAPPER 37

V. TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY-SEVEN AND A

HALF POUNDS LANDED ON ROD AND LINE
THE HORRORS OF THE DEEP ARE EN-

COUNTERED ..... 44

VI. FIGHT WITH A STING-RAY — IN DANGER OF

AN AWFUL DEATH . . . • 5 ^

Vn. OUR NET IS RUINED BY A BIG SHARK — I

CATCH A RECORD SNOOK ... 57

VIII, BATTLE WITH A GIANT RAY ... 64

IX. WE LAND A BIG BARRACOUDA, AND WIT-

NESS A BATTLE BETWEEN SHARK AND
SEA-COW ...... 70

X. WE ARE AVENGED AND PROVE THE TALES

OF MIGHTY JACK ARE TRUE ... 79

XI. BATTLE WITH A RECORD JACK — THE

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR . , 89

XIL WE ARRIVE IN PANAMA — FISHING AT GATUN

AND THE CH ACRES RIVER , . .101

9

lO

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

xin*

XIV.

XV.

XVI.

XVII.

I.

n.

III.

IV.

V.

VI.

VII.

FISHING AROUND COLON 1 LEAVE FOR

UNKNOWN WATERS ....

THE SAN BLAS — SECOND JOURNEY TO UN-
KNOWN WATERS .....

IN THE MIDST OF THE PRIMITIVE WILDS

THE STRANGE LIFE THEREIN .

WE CATCH MANY REMARKABLE FISH THE

MYSTERIOUS KAYMAALS

FACE TO FACE WITH DEATH THROUGH THE

PANAMA CANAL FULL SPEED FOR THE
PACIFIC ......

BOOK II

THE MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE — ^WE
CATCP OUR FIRST PACIFIC SHARKS

BATTLE WITH A 1,460-POUNDS SHOVEL-
NOSE SHARK — EXTRAORDINARY FISH
CAUGHT OFF TABOGA ....

SPLENDID SPORT WITH ROD AND LINE —
A PAPAGAYOU OF SIXTY-FIVE AND A HALF
POUNDS

WE FIGHT THREE SAND-SHARKS SIMUL-
TANEOUSLY — REMARKABLE FISH ON LAND

it's the DEVIL 1 CUT THE LINE, BOSS —
CUT THE LINE 1 " — BATTLE WITH A
GREAT HAMMER-HEAD SHARK

A BATTLE-ROYAL BETWEEN BULL SAND-
SHARKS — LADY BROWN NARROWLY
ESCAPES AN AWFUL DEATH .

MY LINES ARE SMASHED UP — ANOTHER
FIGHT WITH A BIG SHOVEL-NOSE — MY
RIGHT LEG NEARLY LOST

PAOE

109

115

123

130

137

147

156

164

171

179

187

196

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

VIII. THE PEARL ISLANDS — FIVE-HOURS' BATTLE
WITH A SAND-SHARK . . . .

IX. AN ISLAND BLACK WITH BIRDS OUR FIRST

EXPERIENCES WITH THE HARPOON

X. WE HARPOON AND LAND A TON-AND-THREE-

QUARTER SAW-FISH ....

XI. THE BRITISH CONSUL AND HIS WIFE HAVE
THE FIGHT OF THEIR LIVES HIS EXCEL-

LENCY THE PRESIDENT SEES TWO AND
THREE-QUARTER TONS OF FISH LANDED

XII. SIX THOUSAND FOUR HUNDRED AND NINETY
POUNDS CAUGHT ON HOOK AND LINE IN A
DAY .......

XIII. FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS — ^AN AWFUL

SIGHT ......

XIV. WE ARE CAUGHT IN AN AWFUL STORM

XV. BATTLE WITH A GREAT SAW-FISH — TERRIFIC
FIGHT BETWEEN SHARK AND SAW-FISH .

XVI. FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK — ^WE
EXPLORE THE BAYANO RIVER

XVIL THE MIGHTY CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO
RIVER ......

XVIII. WE ARE ATTACKED BY RED BUGS — BATTLE
WITH A VERITABLE LEVIATHAN OF THE
DEEP ......

. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURIOUS
HABITS OF FISH — ^WE RETURN HOME

1 1
PACE

203

213

221

227

235

242

250

256

262

271

280

293

XIX,

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE AUTHOR AND HIS NATIVE FISHERMAN ON A CORAL

REEF IN THE CARIBBEAN . . . Frontispiece

FACmS PAOB

DUG-OUT TOWED BY BIG TARPON 36

RECORD" RED SNAPPER. 102 J LB. .... 36

DRAGGING ASHORE BIG RED SNAPPER .... 42

237J-LB. SHARK. A RECORD ON ROD AND LINE ... 42

NATIVES GATHERED TO SEE WHIP-RAYS .... 48

TOP SIDES OF WHIP-RAYS 48

DOUBLE DAGGER OF FEMALE RAY 50

LANDING 260-LB. STING-RAY 50

CAMP AT FIVE-TREE COVE $2

LADY BROWN AND GRIFFITHS AT FIVE-TREE COVE . . 52

LANDING 300 -LB. STING-RAY 56

40 i-LB. SNOOK 56

LANDING A BIG WHIP-RAY 66

DRAGGING THE LEOPARD-RAY ASHORE .... 66

4IO-LB. WHIP-RAY LANDED ON ROD AND LINE . . 68

FRONT VIEW OF WHIP-RAY 68

THE WOLF OF THE SEA— 5 FT. 6 IN. BARRACOUDA . . 72

66-LB, BARRACOUDA 72

ENORMOUS GREEN TURTLE 74

" IT WADDLED AWAY WITH LADY BROWN ON ITS BACK " . 74

ANOTHER STING-RAY LANDED 88

GAFFING 64-LB. JACK 88

64-LB. JACK, SHOWING CURIOUS SHAPE .... 94

98 i-LB. JACK LANDED ON ROD AND LINE ... 94

SHARK CAUGHT IN KINGSTON HARBOUR . . . .100

PORT LIMON, COSTA RICA 100

EXAMINING SEA-LIFE AT FIVE-TREE COVE . . . II4

" CARA ” IN THE SAN BLAS ARCHIPELAGO . . . II4

LANDING 200 -LB. PORPOISE II8

13

14

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAoasrQ PAOR

EWING,

FISHING AT GAROTI

HEAD OF 1,350-LB. HAMMER-HEAD

HAMMER-HEAD SHARK. LENGTH, I7 FT. 6 IN..

AUTOPSY ON 1,460-LB. SHOVEL-NOSE SHARK .

SHARK THAT CAUSED THE TROUBLE ....
LADY BROWN, MR. TYPALDOS, AND ROBBIE, WITH SHARK
THAT NEARLY CAUSED A TRAGEDY ....
TWO SHOVEL-NOSE SHARKS. 1,200 AND 1,000 LB. .
l|-TON SAWFISH. LENGTH, 24I FT. ; GIRTH, 17 J FT. .

GREAT WHITE SHARK

PANGAS TOWING FISH ASHORE

LADY BROWN, THE PRESIDENT, THE AUTHOR, AND MR. EWING,

WITH BIG SAWFISH

LADY BROWN AND THE AUTHOR, WITH BIG CATCH .

MR. HUGGINS AND THE AUTHOR, WITH BIG CATCH .
SHOVEL-NOSE SHARKS. 1,050 AND 1,100 LB. .

VULTURES FEEDING DURING AUTOPSY ON SHARK .
SIXTEEN SAND-SHARKS AND TIGER-SHARK CAUGHT ON
HOOK AND LINE. WEIGHT, 6,490 LB, .

SCENERY UP THE BAYANO RIVER

MALE SAWFISH. LENGTH, 29 FT. ; GIRTH, I9 FT. ; WEIGHT,

4.560 LB

TIGER-SHARK, 20 FT. 9 IN

SIDE VIEW OF TIGER-SHARK

TIGER-SHARK, SHOWING CURVED TEETH ....

CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO

"THE LITTLE CROCODILE CAME TO LIFE"

SAWFISH WEIGHING 5,700 LB

FOETAL SAWFISH ATTACHED TO OVA ....
FOETAL SAWFISH ON PARENT’S CARCASE ....

OVA OF SAWFISH

PERFORMING AUTOPSY ON SHARKS

NOSE RAISED TO SHOW TEETH

GENITALIA OF SHARK

JAWS, VERTEBR.®, ETC., BROUGHT HOME
LADY BROWN WITH TWO FOETAL SHARKS WHICH AFTERWARDS
SWAM AWAY ....

* • » • 4

LADY BROWN AND DR. CASEY EXAMINING HEART REMOVED
FROM SHOVEL-NOSE SHARK .

BOOK 1

«

CHAPTER I

MONSTERS OF THE DEEP — PREHISTORIC AND PRESENT

SEA LIFE

Since my school-days I have always been keenly
interested in the subject of Life as it existed in the
remote distance of the past, thousands — ^probably mil-
lions — of years ago. I was, and still am, fascinated by
simply conjuring up in my mind a vision of a probable
scene during, say, the Mesozoic period, such as a
battle-royal between, that enormous fish-lizard, the
ichthyosaurus, and the gigantic long-necked plesio-
saurus, with that monstrosity, the pterodactyl, a huge
reptile with wings shaped like a bat but with a spread
of 20 to 30 feet, flying overhead. The struggle would
probably take place in a swamp, amidst trees of
almost unthinkable height and beauty, such as the
great tree fern, which still exists in a modified form in
regions as widely separated as New Zealand and
Jamaica.

These terrible creatures have vanished with the suc-
cessive changes that have occurred on the surface of
the earth, but it has for many years been in my mind
that in unknown tropical waters and in the depths of
the Seven Seas, where more protection has been
afforded, there still exist monsters comparably as great
as those living in a remote epoch.

It was over twenty years ago that 1 commenced my
investigations, and since then I have fished many
waters in various parts of the world, but I was mostly
interested in that part of the Pacific coast which
stretches from the Gulf of Lower California to the
Colombian border, also in the Caribbean, including the
2 *7

1 8 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

vicinities of Jamaica, Colombia, and Panama. My ex-
periences in these expanses only served to corroborate
my views.

One frequently hears exaggerated tales of great fish.
A report appears in the press that Captain X of the
s.s. Z observed a huge monster playing on the top
of the water in . . .—here follows the latitude and
longitude — and people smile. From other quarters
come tales of the mythical sea-serpent, and huge fish
seen with tusks.

When asked if I believe in the existence of crea-
tures almost past the imagination in the depths of the
ocean, my answer is an unqualified “ Yes " ; and I
will proceed to give briefly my reasons for tljiis definite
assertion of fact, and to prove that there* exist, in
virtually unknown and known waters, forms of life
which still remain much the same as they were millions
of years ago.

The earliest animals in the world known -to Science
are the corals and sponges, and they have remained
corals and sponges for 25,000,000 years, and in
tropical waters still exist in profusion in varying forms.
Sea-anemones and medusse (or jelly-fish) also existed in
much the same form during the dawn-life period as
they do to-day. Specimens can be seen in the waters
surrounding the shores of Great Britain, America, and
in most countries, at all times of the year.

During the Mesozoic period, reptilian, mammal, and
fish life was so grotesque and monstrous that it would
be impossible to draw a pen-picture of the life-forms
of that age. The world, both on land and sea, must
surely have been one vast battle-ground for the giants
then existing.

Monsters of fearful aspect and gigantic size, seen
neither before nor since, swarmed upon earth. Their
skeletons, which are still found, include the diplodocus.
These wlxen full-grown were 80 feet long. There is
one at the South Kensington Natural History Museum,

MONSTERS OF THE DEEP 19

And from bones and other remains discovered, some of
the deinosaurs are judged to have measured 1 50 to 1 80
feet in length. They must have consumed tons of
vegetation per day to sustain and nourish their great
bulk.

Among the denizens of the air we have the ptero-
dactyl, a flying monstrosity best described as half bird
and half reptile, with membraneous wings and terrible
snapping jaws armed with strong teeth.

The sea, however, swarmed with still more amazing
colossi, and within its depths were horrors beside which
the most hideous of nightmares pales into insignifi-
cance. Here were ferocious sea-lizards — half fish and
half lizard — with eyes 14 inches in diameter, and
crocodile-like jaws armed with over 200 great teeth,
enormous crustaceans, 6 or 8 feet long, shell-fish (many
over a ton in weight), ganoid (i.e. bright enamelled or
armour-plated) fishes, and colossal sharks and rays.
In these latter we have the first of the true fishes,
boneless, but with vertebrse, and as the sharks and rays
existed then, so in the present age, with little modifi-
cation, they still remain.

In the fact that to-day, swarming in tropical waters,
are rays (or sea-bats) up to 2 tons or more in weight,
sharks, some of them over 30 feet in length, and saw-
fish to my knowledge weighing up to 2 1 tons and over
30 feet in length, we have living evidence that the fish
life of the Mesozoic period still exists in the ocean.

During my years of research work in the Caribbean
and Pacific I have discovered the following living
witnesses dating back to a dim and distant period :
sea-scorpions, half an inch to 9 inches in length, awaiting
their prey in holes within coral formations ; sea-centi-
pedes — ^lovely creatures to look at, their bodies a delicate
shade of salmon-pink, fringed on either side with dozens
of legs of purest white (the many I have found ranged
in length from three-quarters of an inch to 10 inches).
Loathsome sea-cucumbers and sea-slugs, sea-squirts,
sea-eggs, sea-spiders, and huge sea-fleas, some 2 inches

20

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

in length, are collectively actual evidence that in the
depths of the ocean the Mesozoic age still continues.

This combination of data when pieced together com-
pels the deduction that links of the greatest importance
in the'' chain of evolution are here awaiting discovery.

I have endeavoured to show that the life of millions
of years ago undoubtedly still exists in the ocean, and
as evidence I have given proofs ranging from sea-centi-
pedes and sea-scorpions to great sharks, rays, and saw-
fish of tremendous bulk,

I now proceed to strengthen the case that a marine
dinosaurus may yet remain. Among marine mammals
in the tropical waters of the Caribbean and Pacific
you find the manatee, or sea-cow — great beasts, in
some instances larger than the domestic cow. Here
frequently you may see male, feltnale, and young peace-
fully browsing on the sea-grasses in 6 to lo feet
of water, their heads periodically appearing above the
surface to breathe or blow.

In January 1922 a huge whale entered the harbour
of Cristobal, Panama, and being unable to find its
way out, commenced an investigation of its own, en-
deavouring to pass up the Canal towards the first locks
at Gatun and becoming an actual menace to shipping.
Arriving in shallow waters, it ultimately had to be
despatched with machine guns. After it was killed
it was towed by tugs to the Cristobal Docks and an
endeavour was made to raise it from the water, as it
would be valuable commercially for oil, etc. The
powerful 7S-ton cranes and an engine of the Panama
railroad were attached to its bulk by steel cables, but
its colossal size defied all efforts to raise it from the water.
It measured no less than 98 feet in length and was esti-
mated to weigh nearly 100 tons.

What to do with a giant of this description then be-
came a serious question. Tugs were again employed
to tow the carcase through the harbour and out to sea,
but it drifted ashore some miles down the coast where

21

MONSTERS OF THE DEEP

there happened to be a native village. The terrible
heat causing rapid decomposition, the natives were
compelled to leave their homes and appealed to the
Government to remove the pestilential bulk that was
polluting the air. Once more the tugs had to tow it
out to sea, and the United States Army planes from the
Panama Canal zone decided to bomb it from the air
and blow it to pieces. At Santa Isabel, near Nombre
de Dios, sixty miles down the coast, portions of the
vertebrae again came ashore : these I was able to re-
cover, and have presented them to the South Kensington
Museum of Natural History.

It is necessary that one should bear in mind that this
colossus was not a fish, but a mammal, and so here
we have the definite evidence of creatures qS feet in
length, weighing roughly loo tons, still living.

For years I had suspected that, apart from the whale,
manatee, and other monsters, gigantic life yet remained
in the depths, and my experience in 1920 off Manzanillo,
in the Central American waters of the Pacific, confirmed
the suspicion. In connection with what here occurred a
paragraph from the Field, written by my friend Mr. H. T.
Sheringham, Angling Editor of that well-known paper,

may be quoted : , , ,

“ We fancy that Mr. Mitchell Hedges has before
this been in touch with the great unknown, so he is
prepared for anything that may happen. We have
heard him relate some of his experiences of the immov-
able object, and the irresistible force, not in opposition,
but weirdly combined in some creature of the depths.”

On that occasion I will only say that as I w^ fishing
with a very large hook attached to a steel chain, which
in turn was connected to a thick manilla hemp rope,
something seized the bait, and proceeded comparatively
slowly seaward, but with overwhelming strength,
bursting the rope when the end was reached. It was
then I knew that there were monsters beneath the waters
of the Seven Seas of which Science knew nothing.

I fully expected, in relating this before certain people

2 %

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

who are justly considered great experts, that it would
be received with scepticism, but was surprised to find
their views coincided with my own. The great public,
however, I knew perfectly well would only smile and re-
iterate tales about the sea-serpent ; but all scepticism
and incredulity are swept aside when we realise the
actual fact that in November 1921, off Cape May, a
great beast was washed ashore. This mammal, whose
weight was estimated at over 1 5 tons, which — ^to give
a comparison of size — ^is almost as large as five fully
grown elephants, was visited by many scientists, who
were unable to place it, and positively stated that
nothing yet known to Science could in any way compare
with it.

The photographs which were published in many news-
papers showed that this modern leviathan somewhat
resembled the elephant — ^in fact, it could best be de-
scribed as a sea-elephant, but of huge proportions.

I venture to believe, therefore, that this collective
array of data must convince the greatest sceptic that
beyond all question great beasts of the Mesozoic period
still exist in the ocean. Water-beasts of prey beyond
the imagination are waiting discovery and investigation,
and I feel convinced that it is beneath the surface of
the mighty ocean that startling discoveries will be made,
to the great enrichment and advance of Science.

It has been my good fortune to have captured a large
number of big fish, and in this book I shall describe
the battles with them and the dangers encountered,
and will give details from personal experiences of the
fishing and the exploration and investigation of sea-
life in known and unknown waters, and will show
pictures of strange creatures of which the general public
have hitherto had little knowledge.

CHAPTER II

THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT ADVENTURE

In the summer of 1921, mainly through the great kind-
ness and public spirit of the friend to whom I have paid
grateful tribute at the beginning of my book, I was
enabled to undertake an ambitious programme of two
years’ deep-sea exploration work.

The first and foremost consideration was, naturally,
my outfit. I chose the most complete tackle that
ever left this country, and Messrs. Hardy Bros., the
well-known fishing-tackle experts, surpassed them-
selves in building almost super rods and reels, the
strength of which was such that human endurance
would succumb before either could smash. Messrs.
George Farlow & Sons also rendered me considerable
assistance ; and to Messrs. William Good & Co. I was
indebted for the presentation of a series of lines, as
used by the Balloon Section of the Army, which proved
of invaluable service.

Thus armed, and with a fixed determination to dis-
cover what I believed to be unknown, I left Avonmouth
on the 12th September, 1921, and proceeded direct
to Jamaica, Arrived there, I immediately commenced
operations.

After thoroughly testing the sea in the vicinity of
Kingston with very little result, I left for Morant Bay,
situated at the eastern end of the island. Here again
my journey was fruitless. I then went on to Holland,
where the fishing was equally unsuccessful ; but I was
able, by the help of a little colony of natives, to get
together a splendid collection of sea-fans, which are to-
day on view at the headquarters of the British Sea
Anglers’ Society at No, 4 Fetter Lane, London, E.C.

*3

24 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Large alligators are still to be found at Holland, but
in considerably fewer numbers than formerly. Also
here in the marshy land adjoining the lagoon live numbers
of very large land-crabs. They are fearsome-looking
beasts, their back shells deep blue in colour, some of
them, when with claws and legs outstretched, spanning
over a foot.

From here I returned to Kingston, and a few
days later left for Port Antonio, about sixty miles
away.

The drive through the mountains is marvellous, the
curves and twists in the road at times quite frightening.
Tropical foliage of every description makes a perfect
maze ; trees, ferns, and flowers are in riotous profusion ;
while in many places, almost sheer down from the road,
a river roars over great boulders through miniature
canons.

The day following my arrival at Port Antonio I left
at daybreak to fish, and set shark-lines at Williamsfield,
and a place two miles farther on called Blue Hole, the
name of which suits it perfectly. The blue is intense,
caused by the depth of the water. It is a natural sea-
basin, almost surrounded by wonderful trees and foliage,
masses of maidenhair fern and scarlet hibiscus growing
in luxuriance on the steep hillsides rising from the edge
of the pool.

I ran two shark-lines out here and left them, returning
to Williamsfield, where I caught several conger eels.
These tropical congers are very hideous, greenish in
colour, and live in holes in the rocks. The modus
operandi of catching them is to dangle a bait outside
these holes — a head suddenly pops out, and the bait
is grabbed, and dragged deep within the rocky fortress.
It is now a tug-of-war between the fish and its opponent,
the fish usually winning. I have sometimes known
the struggle last for over an hour. My experience is
that one in every ten is caught. They average from
about 2 to 6 pounds in weight, but are quite useless for
food. It is wise to remember that these fish have tre-

THE GREAT ADVENTURE 25

mendously strong jaws, armed with teeth, and may-
give one the very dickens of a bite if care is not taken
when removing the hook.

The next morning I returned to Williamsfield to see
if my shark-lines had been productive of results, only
to find the lines minus hooks. I then went on to Blue
Hole, and on arriving at once saw by the erratic move-
ment of the shark line float that my first big fish was
hooked. This fish showed not the slightest fight, and
when landed seemed to be in very poor condition ;
although about 9 feet in length, it only weighed 270
pounds. At the time I thought this a mighty fish.
My later experience almost relegated it to the category
of a sprat.

I tried for several more days without result, and
returned to Kingston by the road which takes the sea-
coast through Manchioneal, and was about to leave the
island and extend my researches elsewhere, when
during an after-dinner chat at the Myrtle Bank Hotel,
Mr. H. G. Delisser, C.M.G., and Mr. H. E. Crum Ewing,
the Gustos of Mandeville, strongly ad-vdsed me before
leaving to try a place called Black River, affirming that
there beyond dispute large fish, such as tarpon, red
snapper, snook, etc., had been captured.

I must confess I was reluctant to proceed there, the
fishing having hitherto proved so disappointing, but I
was over-persuaded, and decided to give it a trial. I
therefore at once engaged a motor to convey me the
hundred miles or so between Kingston and the Black
River, and found the journey itself more than in-
teresting.

Leaving on the 26th October, and proceeding by the
old Spanish road through Spanish To-wn and Old
Harbour and passing through May Pen, Clarendon, and
Porus, after many miles of steep hill-climbing we
arrived at Mandeville. This place is situated on the
top of an extensive ridge, and after traversing this for
about 12 miles, we found ourselves at the summit of
the Santa Cruz mountains.

26

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

It is doubtful if in any part of the world there is a more
wonderful view than that obtained by looking from this
great height to the plain below, facing the awe-inspiring
seven miles of zigzagging road down which one must
proceed. To see the glorious sunset from this spot
alone justifies a visit, the colouring of the whole valley
being truly exquisite.

Upon reaching the bottom of the hill we experienced
reasonably good going, and ultimately, after passing
through the little village of Santa Cruz, arrived at
Lacovia, where we got the first view of the Black
River.

A little farther on by the side of the road are two
stone graves, the legend being that a duel was fought,
both combatants being killed and buried where they
fell. A few miles more and we entered the picturesque
little town of Black River, nestling on the shore of the
Caribbean, and fortunately I was at once able to obtain
quite comfortable accommodation in a bungalow close
by the side of the sea.

In the first place I must express my indebtedness to
Mr. Mellish, a Justice of the Peace, whom I met there,
for much local information, and also for introducing
me to a native rejoicing in the name of Abraham
Grififiths, who, he assured me, was the person best
versed in piscatorial knowledge of the district. With
this man I immediately got into touch.

In the tropics I found that the question of clothing
is very important, and for anyone to go fishing in con-
ventional dress is ridiculous. After a day of handling
bait, and possibly a big fish coming on board, your
ordinary clothing would look like nothing on earth
when you returned. I will therefore describe the dress
which is far and away the best when fishing in climates
where the temperature all the year round is over 8o
degrees in the shade. This costume is very simple,
and the cost practically nil : a white or khaki broad-
brimmed cotton or native straw hat, a khaki drill shirt,

THE GREAT ADVENTURE 27

shorts of the same material, and a pair of rubber-soled
shoes — ^legs and arms entirely bare. After you have
acclimatised yourself to the sun, discard as much cloth-
ing as you can. Take the advice of the native in regard
to dress — ^he lives there and knows, and in this way you
cannot go far wrong.

On the day following my arrival, half an hour before
daybreak, I met Griffiths at an appointed place at the
entrance to the Black River. It was one of those mar-
vellous mornings that only the tropics can produce.
The beautiful planet Venus had risen in the east over
the Santa Cruz mountains ; to the south the Southern
Cross was plainly visible ; and above, the blackness
of the heavens gave added brilliance to i nnumerable
stars, which in these latitudes appear appreciably
nearer to us. It is only at times like these that one
realises, what so few of us ordinarily have the desire or
inclination to notice, the marvellous beauty of vast
illimitable space.

The boats in use in these parts are exclusively dug-
outs with accommodation for only three people — really
only two in comfort.

Having embarked, I opened the conversation with
my native expert.

“ Now, Griffiths, tell me what fish you get here.”

“ All fish, great fish, Backra.”

“ Yes, Griffiths, but what fish? ”

“ Tarpon, snook, snappers, jack,” he replied, and then
proceeded to dilate on the size of these various fish
in such a manner that I frankly confess I was incredulous.
It seemed inconceivable that up this little river anything
like the size he was endeavouring to convey to me could
possibly exist, for he affirmed that a red snapper had
been caught which weighed over 80 pounds, and that
he himself had actually landed a jack weighing over
60 pounds. So many fish stories have been told all
over the world, more or less exaggerated, that I — ^and I
am sure most other fishermen— -had become extremely
sceptical. However, I said nothing, realising that the

28 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

only thing was to find out how much truth there was in
his statements.

" Well, Grifiiths, where shall we go ? ”

“ Up river, Boss.”

I confess I had no faith in “up river,” the mouth
looking very fishable to me ; but being thoroughly
ignorant of the place, I left myself in his hands, and,
each of us seizing a paddle, we proceeded to propel the
dug-out against the current to a locality which he in-
formed me was known as the Broad Water.

By this time the first faint flush of dawn was appear-
ing in the sky, and it was possible through the miasmic
morning mists to see that on the left side the low banks
were completely covered with mangroves, while on the
right a seemingly endless track of grassy swamp stretched
out. This swamp, which covers some 80,000 acres —
the largest in Jamaica — ^is the home of millions of mos-
quitoes, always . the bane of one's existence in the
tropics. The light was not sufficiently clear to take
in the scenic effects of the country we passed, but after
covering about a mile, the river suddenly broadened
out, on the left side running up to Lacovia, and on the
other branching through the valley towards the Santa
Ouz mountains.

As we passed up, I had noticed the whole time curious
splashings and sucKng noises from the innumerable mud
fish and godamie that inhabit the mud flats and tangled
masses of mangrove roots.

Paddling softly across the Broad Water, we arrived
at a huge water-lily bed, to which we attached our
canoe by the simple expedient of reaching down and
making use of the stems. Griffiths had spent most of
the previous night with a net catching mullet, which
are 'unquestionably the best bait for everything. They
averaged in length about 9 to 12 inches, and, incident-
ally, are very good eating.

I had not brought my great rods and reels with me, and
the two I had were almost identical— -fairly light, the
reels containing 200 yards of line — one of 18 thread,

THE GREAT ADVENTURE 29

and the other of 21. I rigged up my tackle, to the
end of the line attaching a swivel, 4 feet of steel wire
lead, to which in turn was attached a fairly large hook.
Cutting one of the mullet through the middle, one por-
tion was impaled upon the hook through the eyes, the
other through the tail, and I cast out.

CHAPTER III

THE WONDERS OF THE BLACK RIVER FOUR-HOUR

BATTLE WITH A MIGHTY TARPON

It was now quite light, and I was astonished to see
huge tarpon playing and breaking the surface all over
the river, while very large numbers of calipever were
leaping in the air, jumping in many instances quite
6 to 8 feet above the water, returning with a loud
splash. These fish are excellent eating, but almost
impossible to catch except with a net.

I was now able to take in the full view of the stretch
of water whereon we were moored, the beautiful green
of the mangroves, the extraordinary swamps stretching
far away, and in the distance stately palm trees here and
there lending a peculiarly picturesque effect. While
revelling in this virgin beauty, I was violently roused
from my reverie by the scream of one of my reels. Rais-
ing the rod, which had been placed on the bottom,
the end pointing over the side of the dug-out, I struck.
There was a wrench of most unexpected violence, and
a tremendous swirl of water about 50 yards from the
boat. Immediately the taut line became dead slack. I
reeled in. There was no question as to what had oc-
curred.

Griffiths was silent, remaining perfectly complacent
about the whole incident, as though it was only what he
expected. In reality, I think, he was pitying me, or
regarding me as a poor fool for attempting to secure
the fish he knew inhabited there with what was to him
a little piece of cotton. I said nothing, but having
reeled in the broken line (it was the 18-thread line) I
realised that to fish with two rods was impossible. I

THE WONDERS OF THE BLACK RIVER 31

had had my lesson — or thought I had ; but as I laid
the discarded rod on the bottom of the dug-out, with
a crescendoing shriek the line on my other reel was
being ripped off. Again I struck. This time there was
no break, and into the air shot 5 feet of gleaming
silver. Crash I water flying in all directions. It returned
to its native element, and almost instantaneously once
again into the air it sprang, nearly somersaulting;
twice more in quick succession; then a long, steady
rush.

I gave all the butt I dared, and at the end of about
100 yards once more it flashed into the air, scintillating
in the sun. It now swung in wide circles, the line
whistling through the water ; but this time I was
feeling much happier, knowing I had the fish well in
hand, and unless the hook pulled from the jaw, which
is extremely bony and frail, I realised there was every
hope of landing it.

Rush after rush — several times more it sprang from
the water, but each time the attempts were more feeble.
The circling became narrower, until at last, after a
period of nearly 40 minutes, my game opponent was
brought carefully alongside the dug-out. Griffiths,
gaff in hand, was ready to strike.

“ No, Griffiths, wait ! ” I cried. “ Kneel down in
the boat, put your arms carefully underneath, and
lift him in. We'll measme him, and give the poor old
chap a chance.”

It sounds a great deal easier than it actually was,
but after several vain attempts, still defiant, he was
ultimately placed in the bottom of the dug-out, flapping
vigorously with his tail, and smothering me with that
delightful compound known as fish slime. He was a
beautiful fellow, perfectly symmetrical, and when first
taken from the water, gloriously coloured. He measured
exactly 5 feet 4 inches from tip to tip, and weighed
approximately 70 pounds. I gently detached two
scales (they make excellent miniature menu holders),
then raising him, returned him to the home which I

32 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

expect he never thought to see again. Slowly, but I
belieire happily, he moved away.

I always feel it is senseless to kill when it can be of
no possible use or service. Tarpon are really quite
useless in the way of food, therefore why indulge in
needless slaughter? After all, it is, or should be,
primarily the sport that is worth going for, not sheer
butchery.

By now the sun had risen well clear of the Santa
Cruz mountains, the mists had entirely disappeared ;
and pulling contentedly at my pipe, that trusty friend
that never leaves me, I basked in the heat. I had cast
out a fresh bait ; half an hour went by, and there was
no sign of a strike ; tarpon ceased to rise, and even the
calipever no longer jumped in the air.

It's all over for this morning, Griffiths.”

“ Yes, Boss,” he answered ; so, breaking the lily
stems holding the dug-out, we leisurely drifted down
stream.

Along the bank adjoining the mangroves were large
patches of glorious mauve water hyacinths opening to
the sun. Some of these beds had become detached, and
were sailing down the stream, beautiful islands of mauve
and green, to be swallowed up and shattered by the
sea a mile below. Blue cranes lazily flew among the
mangrove trees, humming birds flitted among the
hyacinths, while the harsh notes of the crab catcher
frequently jarred the silence of the heavy, scent-laden
atmosphere, and into one's blood crept the wonderful
peace that is only experienced in the tropics.

Where the Black River Bridge crosses the stream we
tied our dug-out, and I walked through the little town
back to the house where I was staying, as hungry as a
hunter, and did full justice to the breakfast awaiting
me. In the evening I went up the river to the Broad
Water, but although tarpon and calipever were playing
all round, I did not experience a single strike.

The following day, again before dawn, I met Griffiths

THE WONDERS OF THE BLACK RIVER 33

at the mouth of the river and fished the same locality ;
but though we also tried in the evening, there was no
result, so next morning, when once more I arrived to
have another shot, I said :

" Look here, Griffiths, I know the Broad Water has
plenty of tarpon, but they are dead off feed ; let’s try
the mouth.”

A hundred yards out from where the river enters
the sea, a sand-bar has formed. The water here is
only about 4 or 5 feet deep, but the entire bottom of the
river-channel to the bar is full of logwood snags. Black
River being one of the largest export towns for logwood
in the island, and as for generations in the loading of
the trade schooners a certain amount has fallen from
the docks, at once sinking (for logwood will not float),
the river is full of logs and roots. Here, close to the
sand-bar we moored our dug-out by dropping over a
heavy stone attached to a rope.

Fishing with a mullet bait I cast out my line, and
within half an hour had three runs in succession, but
on striking felt not the slightest resistance, though the
bait had disappeared. A luU followed — ^when suddenly,
without warning, a gigantic gleaming mass shot into
the air 30 yards from the stern of the dug-out.

“ Good God I Griffiths, what ’’

I got no further. With a scream yard after yard of
line was being ripped off the reel. Mechanically I
grasped the rod, for the moment too paralysed to
strike, though this proved to be needless. Again the
mighty bulk shot into the air. Griffiths was so excited
that in response to my agonised appeals to get our
mooring-stone up, he almost fell overboard.

With both thumbs on the leather drag I was putting
all the strain I dared on the line, and the friction was so
terrific with the rate it was being torn off as almost to
burn through the leather.

” Paddle, paddle 1 ” I shouted, though I feared it was
useless, as only a few more feet remained on the spool —
when suddenly, at the very entrance to the river, the

34 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

big fish seemed to hesitate, doubling back, then dashing
to right and left. Once again it shot into the air
within a few yards of the shore, and with Griffiths
paddling his hardest, I was enabled to regain 30 or 40
yards of line.

By this time several of the natives in Black River,
having seen this huge fish leaping, had become imbued
with the wildest enthusiasm, and their shouts quickly
brought almost the entire population of the town
down to the river, where they packed the bridge and
wharfs.

The fish now definitely decided what to do, and with
a rush proceeded straight up stream. Under the
bridge we went, Griffiths using the paddle like a madman,
while the natives roared words of encouragement to us.
Every available dug-out, and even one of the big
logwood barges moored to the river-side, was soon
filled by the natives, who commenced to paddle with
us ; and as if to give a display for their benefit, in full
view of the people, who by now numbered hundreds,
this leviathan once more shot clear of the water over
6 feet into the air, returning with a crash that sent
waves and spray flying in every direction.

In this way we proceeded right up to the Broad
Water. Here my coloured friends, getting ahead in their
dug-outs, and beating the surface, turned the fish, and
it proceeded back again towards the mouth. 1 was
giving all the butt I dared, placing a strain on the line
that I thought must cause a break at any moment, but
it speaks volumes for Messrs. Hardy Bros.' tackle that
nothing gave. Right to the mouth of the river the
great fish travelled, when again it turned up stream.
All work in the town had ceased, and the natives of
Black River were now quite beside themselves with
excitement, their shrieking and yelling causing pande-
monium. The heat and blaze of the sun seemed to me
terrific.

" Griffiths,” I managed to gasp, ” if that fish doesn’t
give m soon, I shall,” for the strain was beginning to

FOUR-HOUR BATTLE WITH TARPON 35

tell on me badly, perspiration pouring down in
rivulets.

An hour — ^two hours — ^three hours went by, and still
this mighty fish showed no signs of exhaustion. By
this time I was actually rolling on the seat of the dug-
out with fatigue. Aching in every joint, it was almost
agony every time I turned the reel in the retrieving of
a few yards of line.

The fish travelled six times from the sea to the Broad
Water and back, a distance from when I first struck
it of over 12 miles, and on its last journey down, when
nearly opposite Mr. Farquharson’s wharf, it suddenly
began to show signs of being played out. As for myself,
I was almost in extremis ; and here I must unhappily
record the fact that the largest tarpon I have ever
seen,, or even dreamt of, at almost its last gasp, with a
final roll parted the evidently kinked wire lead, and
amidst groans of disappointment from the natives, dis-
appeared. I was too utterly exhausted to speak one
word ; neither did Griffiths. He paddled the boat to
the side of Farquharson’s Wharf, where I was in such a
condition that it was impossible for me to stand, and I
had to be helped out.

Of the many people that saw this mighty fish, not
one estimated the weight at less than 250 pounds,
Mr. Farquharson giving it as between 250 and 300
pounds, while others were convinced it would have
turned the scale at over three hundred.

Unable to walk, I had to drive the half-mile to the
place where I was staying, and was stiff and sore for
days after.

I was bitterly disappointed, and yet glad in a way
that the fish had escaped. What a fighter 1 He was
game to the last, and certainly deserved his freedom.
Perhaps we may meet again one day and renew the
battle — who knows ?

I had no need to speculate further whether there
were great fish in Black River of a size that would
break all previous records. With this certain knowledge

36 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

I made up my mind I would make it my headquarters
for my fishing and deep-sea research work in this part
of the world.

That night Griffiths came up to see me.

“ Boss,” said he, “ you did all man could. Him
greatest fish seen in Black River. They say in town it
was duppie (ghost) of man Rodney, him drowned there,
and beg you not catch duppies.”

” Griffiths,” I replied, ” that’s the liveliest ghost I
ever heard of, and now listen. Black River is going
to be my headquarters for big-game fishing. I’m leaving
to-morrow morning for Kingston to bring down all my
tackle, and we’ll see what records we can get from
the river and sea round here. Get some men at work
right away on nets ; I want one 300 yards long, and one
smaller for you to catch bait with. I'll be back again
within 48 hours, so have everything you possibly can
ready for me, and tell the other fishermen I want a
constant supply of bait.”

RECORD RED SNAPPER {p. -}i).
Weight, 102] lb

CHAPTER IV

HOW WE CAUGHT THE GREAT RED SNAPPER

The following day I went to Kingston as fast as car
could take me. On arriving at the Myrtle Bank Hotel
I was immediately asked what my luck had been. I
related exactly what had occurred, and stated that I
had come up to Kingston to get my tackle, and intended
making Black River my headquarters ; and the follow-
ing day, accompanied by that splendid sportswoman,
Lady Richmond Brown, I returned, carrying with me
the whole of my great fishing outfit.

It is an extraordinary fact that for several subsequent
days, although Lady Brown and I fished persistently,
not a single strike did we have. It was not until the
7th November, once again at the mouth of the river,
I hit into a tarpon, which, when landed, weighed just
over 40 pounds, and returning next day in the same
place I struck another. This latter fish put up a
splendid fight, leaping into the air, circling the dug-
out, and on several occasions shooting right beneath
the boat. I had to be on the qui vive every moment
to prevent a break.

It took over three-quarters of an hour before it was~
finally landed, and weighed nearly 80 pounds.

The whole time I was playing this fish, I had noticed
the dorsal fin of a shark, I judged about 7 or 8 feet in
length, following the rushes of the fighting tarpon,
doubtless in hopeful anticipation.

The loth November was one of those days which
always stand out in the memory — z day that, when old
age overtakes one, can always be re-lived as one sits
in an arm-chair by the fire with one’s memories.

38 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

I do not know why, but on this occasion I was
consumed with a feeling of ultra-anticipation, I
carried with me down to the waiting boat two of the
new rods that had been specially built for me by
Messrs. Hardy Bros, for my big fishing work — ^split cane
perfectly balanced and comparatively light. The firm in
question have since done me the honour of calling this
rod after me : the exact description may be found on
referring to their catalogue. I had also special reels
for these rods, running on ball bearings, with a perfect
brake action. On each reel I had 300 yards of 36-
thread line. When you are after great fish of unknown
weight, the only possible way to capture them, and
thus obtain practical knowledge, is to have tackle
that will stand considerable strain. It may be a tarpon
of 40 pounds, a big jack, a 300- or 400-pound ray, or —
as so frequently happens : — a shark anything from 6 to
16 feet. It is therefore obvious, in spite of all that may
be written to the contrary, that it is useless to fish
with 18- or 2 1 -thread line for this sort of work.

On arriving at the mouth of the river, Griffiths was
already waiting for me. He greeted me with :

“ Boss, I dreamed a dream last night — I dreamed I
was tying a hog " (i.e. in this part of the world the hogs
have their legs tied, and are carried in this way).
“ Boss, it is the bestest dream — ^we get game to-day."

“ Good ! I have the same feeling."

We put off, and moored the dug-out a hundred yards
off shore on the bar.

“ A whole mullet to-day, and the biggest you’ve got
— ^no halves. If we are after big fish, small baits arc
useless.”

I cast out to left and right of the boat, and I had
hardly put my second rod down before the line com-
menced to. race off the reel, and with a rush and swirling
of water a great fish made with irresistible force straight
out to sea. Seventy-five — ^100 — 150 yards of line dis-
appeared. All the time I was tightening my brake,
which now registered a 40-pound strain, and not making

THE GREAT RED SNAPPER 39

the slightest difference to this new species of submarine
— 200 — 250 yards. I had now increased my pressure
up to 60 pounds, and was expecting a smash every
minute.

“ Good-bye, Griffiths, to all the line. This fish will
never stop till it gets to the other side of' the
Caribbean I ”

A terrific jar, and the rod’s point straightened with
a jerk.

“ Damn it 1 I wonder how much of my line I’ve
lost,” I groaned, and reeling in, was thankful to discover
that fortunately the parting had occurred just above
where the wire leader joined the line. The dangling
end showed unmistakably by the fraying for several
feet up the sandpapering effects of shark hide, and I
knew it was the mighty tail of one of these “ tigers of
the deep ” that had severed my tackle.

Quickly refitting and baiting afresh, I again cast out.
Within the space of half an hour I had two more runs,
both whoppers ; the last voracious creature upon my
striking bit completely through the wire 6 inches above
the hook.

” We’d the right premonition this morning,” I said
to Griffiths. ” Game are here all right, but not what
we expected : a school of sharks has come in, and I’m
afraid it will utterly spoil the fishing,” for, be it known,
on the advent of these savage creatures, all other fish
usually leave the vicinity,

A quiet period followed for a space of nearly an hour.

“ Boss, the dream I dreamed meant big sharks,”
said Griffith sorrowfully.

' “ Yes,” I replied, ” and I’m afraid we’ll not land
anything now,” for the sun had risen high up by this
time, and in the tropics it is only in the early morning
and evening that fish feed well.

“ We’ll give them another half-hour,” I said, “ and
see what happens.”

About ten minutes later the line on the right-hand
side of the boat was drawn off the reel for a few yards.

40 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

and stopped. Expectantly I picked up the rod — ^again
a little run — a. fish playing with the bait, I thought.
This was repeated three or four times.

“ Some little devil chewing the bait off,” I said to
Griffiths. Suddenly there were three sharp knocks in
succession, and then a rapid run ; I struck, and felt,
by the tremendous wrench, which almost tore the rod
out of my hands, that I was fast into a big fish — ^the
little devil had suddenly grown up I

“ Reel my other line in, Griffiths,” I shouted, " as
hard as you can, and up with the mooring stone 1
We’ll follow this one if it takes us all da}'' I 1 ”

Suddenly the rush ceased. I tightened hard on the
line — ^still harder, until it was as taut as a banjo string
— ^it was fast in a logwood snag 1

” Damnation I Griffiths, that was no shark, and the
brute has snagged me 1 ”

We paddled up over the spot where the line appeared
firmly fixed, when by circling all at once it freed.

“ It’s ” I was about to say “ gone,” but I never

finished my sentence, for the fish was still there, and
with a rush was off again.

“ Get way on the boat, Griffiths, then let him tow
while you steer.”

We were now within a few yards of Theodore Levy’s
Wharf, the owner of which is known for miles round
as ” Massa Dore.”

The inhabitants of Black River, who are great sports-
men, love to see a battle royal, and now crowded on the
wharf, shouting and gesticulating ; they were most
eager to see me land a really big fish.

Turning to the right, my hidden opponent made for
the river, and we passed up under the bridge. I knew
it was no tarpon, for not once had it even risen to the
surface, and its fighting tactics were unlike those of the
jack and snook. I could not think what on earth I
had hit into.

” What the devil is it ? ” I asked.

” Him big snapper. Boss.”

THE GREAT RED SNAPPER 41

" Impossible I Snappers don’t grow to this size,” I
replied,

“ Him big snapper, Boss,” came the imperturbable
answer.

“ Well, whatever it is, I feel I’m going to land this one.”

But over-confidence was nearly my undoing. With a
mighty rush the fish made for a tangled mass of man-
grove roots growing deep down to the bottom of the
river, and it was only the strength of the rod and line
that enabled me to turn it when within an ace of disaster,

Up the river we travelled, the fish boring on doggedly,
though at no great pace. We were approaching a large
lily bed, and here I had to put all the pressure on my
tackle I dared to hold the fish away from this danger
zone. Suddenly it rose to the surface.

“ Great Caesar’s ghost 1 You’re right 1 ” I cried.
" It’s a snapper I ”

Slowly I manoeuvred the beautiful red shape close to
the dug-out.

“ Get the gaff under his gills. Steady I go easy I
and hold on till I can put the rod down and help I ”
and between us we managed to get into the bottom of
the boat what surely must have been a great-grandfather
among snappers. There it lay — 3. magnificent fish.
For at least ten minutes I could only gaze upon it, for
never could I have believed that a red snapper of this
size existed.

Lady Richmond Brown, who on this occasion had
had the bad luck not to be with me, had already been
informed by the natives that I was fast into a big fish,
and following in another canoe, she was able to take a
splendid series of photographs. In these one could see
the gaffing of the fish, getting it into the dug-out, and
the subsequent dragging of it ashore, and again when
hauled up over mangrove branches, where its full
length was plainly seen.

Its measurements were 58 inches long, 41 inches in
girth, head 18 inches long and 35 inches in circumfer-
ence at base, mouth 1 5 inches wide, weight 102 J pounds

42 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

— a world's record. Its teeth were almost like those
of an alligator ; the largest (which I have) were of
ivory and nearly 2 inches in length.

What with the excitement and the heat I felt I had
earned a rest, and I fear for the remainder of the day
my conversation consisted mainly of big snappers and
speculations as to what other records this part of the
world might yield.

For several days after this we experienced a succession
of violent tropical thunderstorms and rain. Only
those who have visited the tropics can realise their
severity. For hours the thunder and flashes of lightning
continued ; the heavens seemed almost to be a colossal
reservoir the dam of which had broken, and the Black
River coming down in heavy flood put an end to fishing.

There is only one thing to do at these times, and that
is to possess your soul in patience and have your tackle
in perfect condition ; these are the opportunities one
must take to see that reels are thoroughly oiled, new
wire leaders attached, examine lines, and a host of
other things, for carelessness in overlooking details of
this sort will always result in the losing of big fish.

An amusing incident in connection with “ losing big
fish ” occurred after a lecture I gave at the Jamaica
Institute in Kingston to a crowded hall. In the course
of my remarks I confessed that I had, with very few
exceptions, always lost the largest fish, and I do not
know that I blame the sportsman who wrote a letter to
the Jamaica Gleaner the following day, saying that
after listening to my lecture carefully he was dis-
appointed to hear that apparently my greatest know-
ledge of big fish had chiefly consisted of misses. I
forget the rest, but if memory serves me right he asked
me, if I ever 'managed to land some of these fish and
not miss them, to come back and give theln another
lecture. Something seems to tell me that one day I
shall gratify his wishes and return to Jamaica, and again
lecture there, this time showing lantern pictures of
weird creatures of a size beyond their wildest dreams.

THE GREAT RED SNAPPER 43

I believe in criticism of this sort, for after all it is
productive of much good result. It fills a man with
a determination to prove his theories and beliefs, and
acts as a spur, whereas faint praise rather sickens one.

One of my most cherished beliefs is that impartial,
frank criticism is the greatest test of friendship, and
lucky are they who possess friends fearless enough to
give it. But I am afraid I have rather wandered from
my narrative.

For several days after the storms I had lots of sport,
but very few fish, one morning having nineteen runs,
and in spite of this only landed one — a. shark of about
60 pounds. During the next day or two I got several
more — ^nothing much — the best 80 to 90 pounds.
Griffiths said :

“ It’s badlucky, so it is.”

On the 20th November, fishing up the river on light
tackle, I got a lo-pound snook, and on the 2 1st a
6-pound bony fish, known locally as “ Jim-o ’-wriggle.”
These latter are splendid game fish, and put up a magni-
ficent fight on light tackle, leaping from the water and
fighting to the very last.

I still continued to fish early each morning the mouth
of the river. The sharks had become a perfect nuisance,
and I got quite a number on rod and line, weighing
from 140 to I so pounds. They gave splendid sport, and
proved an excellent substitute for Muller’s exercises 1

On the 25th November about midday the town was
shaken by an earthquake. No damage was done,
though had it been a quick movement instead of a slow
one, the consequences would undoubtedly have bemi
very serious for Jamaica. Many will remember the
results of the 1907 earthquake, which devasted Kingston,
killing some hundreds of people. There had been s e vera 1
small shocks previous to this one, which I expect upset
the fish, for it is a curious and undoubted fact that
fish are very susceptible to seismic and climatic dis-
turbances.

CHAPTER V

TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY-SEVEN AND A HALF POUNDS
LANDED ON ROD AND LINE — THE HORRORS OF THE DEEP
ARE ENCOUNTERED

Towards the end of the first week in December, whilst
fishing with me off the mouth of the Black River, Lady
Brown struck a good fish. She was using light tackle,
baiting with a small live snapper. This fish put up an
excellent fight, but when it started to circle close to
the boat with that curious movement that cannot
be mistaken, I knew it was a jack. In this circling
method of fighting the fish is almost on its side, giving
tremendous resistance. On its ultimately being brought
to the boat, it proved to be in splendid condition,
weighing just over 40 pounds.

The following day we landed two more, both between
40 and 45 pounds, and the morning after I hit into a
whale of a fish.

Griffiths had previously never seen a rod or reel, but
having by now got used to this style of fishing, he knew
exactly what to do, and with great celerity raised the
mooring stone. This time we did not go up the river,
for, racing madlj'’, the big fish made straight out to sea.
Fortunately I was fishing with my heavy tackle, and by
Griffiths using the paddle with all his strength, I was
just able to keep up with the first tremendous rush
before the line came to an end on the spool. With
occasional helps from the paddle to ease the strain on
the line, the big fish now proceeded to tow us. Half
an hour went by, and we were still travelling out to sea,

I could see the people on the shore waving, and I waved
back in return. By this time I had regained over 100

THE HORRORS OF THE DEEP 45

yards of my 300-yard line, and felt more comfortable.
I was no longer in doubt as to what I had hit into, for
cutting the surface of the water 200 yards ahead was
the dorsal fin of a shark steadily proceeding to — heaven
knew where, for certainly we didn’t ! I badly wanted
to land the brute, as I knew it would prove to be the
largest fish I had ever caught on rod and line ; but
time passed, and the terrific strain on the muscles,
coupled with the heat, was telling on me badly, and there
seemed not to be the slightest let-up to the onward
movement of the fish.

At last I could stand the strain no longer.

“ Griffiths,” I said, “ come and take the rod and hang
on. I’ll steer the boat. I’m absolutely done.”

With much explanation I gave him some idea of what
to do, and he certainly handled the rod splendidly for
a first attempt. Over two hours passed before the fish
showed signs of exhaustion, and having rested, I again
took over the rod from Griffiths, and at last, thoroughly
beaten, it was brought alongside. I looked at my ebony
companion.

” What the devil are we going to do with it now ? ”
I asked. “ We can’t get it into the boat, and I’m deter-
mined somehow to get it ashore.”

Griffiths scratched his woolly head, and then with
considerable skill managed to hitch our mooring rope
round the shark’s tail, dodging the spasmodic thrashing
of that powerful member. We now had the fish tied
fast to the stern of the dug-out, but it was still very much
alive, and threatened every moment to overturn the
boat. In fact it came within an ace of doing so, rocking
our little craft so badly that we took in a considerable
quantity of water, and only the most vigorous baling
prevented our submerging. This, however, would not
have mattered much, for a dug-out frequently fills and
turns over, giving no real cause for anxiety, for being
unsinkable, one has only, when immersed, to rock the
boat from side to side, getting rid of a considerable
amount of water in this way, and then scramble back,

46 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

completing the emptying process by baling, usually
with a calabash or coco-nut shell.

After much hard work and perseverance we managed
to beach the shark exactly opposite where I was living,
and Lady Brown took photographs which show the
shark, and the rod and reel used in its captured It
weighed 237^ pounds — ^an ugly brute of the shovel-
nose species. This was, as I anticipated, my record
fish captured on rod and line.

I made several night excursions after this.

There seems to be an almost universal belief that
fish feed best at night. Strangely enough, this has
never been my experience, and I have many times
gone both up river and out to sea, and have never once
been rewarded with a fish ; but I can thoroughly re-
commend to lovers of natural beauty and mysticism a
night picnic up a tropical river. It is impossible to
picture a more beautiful spectacle than the dignified
majesty of a full moon silvering the delicate fronds of
the palms and casting weird ghost-shapes on the water.
The hum of myriads of insects one can almost imagine
to be the far-off strains of an organ, lending a cathedral-
like solemnity to the nocturnal peace of primitive nature.

The fishing hereafter was very slow until Christmas,
but the antics of one tarpon I struck are worth recording.
In size it was a comparatively small fish, but on being
hooked it leaped an extraordinary height from the
water, with mouth wide open, shaking its head with
great vigour. The half-mullet bait flew in one direction,
the hook and line in the other, and the fish in a third—
all three being in the air together.

On the 22nd December I went to Kingston for Christ-
mas, driving from Black River nearly 20 miles to the
railway-station (which has the name of Maggoty). The
road foEows the Black River for a considerable distance,
and IS miles above the mouth the scenic effects well
repay a visit. The river runs between miniature rocky
cliffs which extend right down to the edge of the tumb-
1 Illustration faces page 43.

THE HORRORS OF THE DEEP 47

ling water, wonderful trees, foliage, and maidenhair
fern growing in profusion on the sides, with one of the
most picturesque small waterfalls I have ever seen.

On arrival I found Kingston, as usual, awfully hot
and dusty, with that wretched white dust that powders
everything and gives one a beastly bad cough with a
sore throat.

It is possible that some day the Government may
endeavour to make the road conditions of Kingston a
little more sanitary, but I fear this is too much to hope
for in my generation.

I returned to Black River on the 30th December. At
this time of year the tangerines are at their best, and
seldom have I seen more magnificent fruit than one can
obtain in the districts of Clarendon, Porus, and Mande-
ville, and on passing through, I bought 100, and took
them with me.

The next day (the 31st) I finished up the year 1921
in splendid style. Fishing about three miles down the
coast from Black River, I struck a leopard-ray. It is
really most extraordinary the fight this fish can give,
and it is necessary to exercise the greatest care in
landing him, the long, whip-like tail in the male being
fitted with a single spear, and in the female with a double
one, situated about a foot from the body. This is their
weapon of defence, and anyone unfortunate enough to
have this dagger-like weapon pierce their flesh is almost
certain to suflPer considerably ; the wound becomes in-
flamed, causing great pain, and in many cases I believe
the poison produces a species of paralysis.

Within an hour of catching the first fish, I struck
another, which I was also successful in landing. Griffiths
and I, after much difficulty, managed to get them into
the dug-out, and I returned with them to Black River,
obtaining an excellent series of photographs, and
removing their long whip-like tails as souvenirs. They
weighed respectively 75 and 80 pounds. As can be seen
from the photographs, they are extraordinary-looking
fish, pretty in a way, and yet repulsive.

48 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

In the manner described I bade the old year of 1921
farewell, full of hope as to what 1922 might bring me.

I shall always look upon this year as producing the
most extraordinary sequence of events that I have ever
had happen to me. It was in this year that the explora-
tion of the Chucunaque and San Bias took place, re-
sulting in the discovery of a civilisation, and much
scientific data, unknown to any museum or scientist.
Those who love tales of primitive adventure, together
with stirring incidents, dangers, and hair-breadth es-
capes,- will read Lady Richmond Brown’s book, recording
the lives and habits of a primitive people, whom Mr.
Joyce of the British Museum, Professor Eliot Smith
of the University of London, and other recognised
authorities, state to be earlier than the Stone and Iron
Age.

I shall do my best to record battles with mighty
leviathans of the deep and strange monsters living in
the depths of the ocean which we encountered during
1922, also grotesque forms of life observed in the Carib-
bean and Pacific.

I suppose on the first day of a New Year one is always
ultra-optimistic, and certain it is that I set out in the
highest spirits for my day’s work, nor was I disap-
pointed.

I returned down the coast to the spot where I had
previously caught my two whip-rays, I had been fish-
ing less than a quarter of an hour when I had my
first strike, and, after playing the fish for nearly half
an hour, landed another whip-ray of 70 pounds. With-
in twenty minutes I was fast into another fish, this time
bringing to gaff a hammer-head shark 5 feet 3 inches
in length. A quiet period followed, when there came a
slow, strong pull, I had entirely discarded my light
rods and tackle, and now only used the heavy gear.
Steadily the line commenced to run through the rod
rings. I struck hard, and was surprised to find there
was no rush, the fish still proceeding in the same steady,
resolute maimer. Gradually, I applied the brake,

THE HORRORS OF THE DEEP 49

until the strain must have registered 50 pounds, with
no appreciable result, for this extraordinary moving
substance still continued its curious motion along the
bottom of the sea. I could not conceive what I was
fast into, and neither could Griffiths.

" Whatever this is,” I said, "we’d better follow it,”
for I did not seem able to stop this persistent, com-
paratively slow movement. Then light dawned on me.

" It’s another ray,” I said, " but a different species.”
Memories of skate off the Jersey coast drifted back to
me, and I remembered vividly the curious door-mat-
like feeling of these fish, so detested by the surf anglers
when hooked, but this appeared to be far and away
larger than anything of this family that I had
encountered.

Anyone who has had the misfortune to hook a large
skate will know its peculiar action — ^the resistance by
its outspread wings is tremendous, and it takes a great
deal of pumping and hard work to get the mass of flesh
to the surface.

I was not far off shore, and by applying great pressure
on the line, stopped the feh from heading farther out
to sea. Griffiths gradually manoeuvred the dug-out
to the beach, where I got out, and played the fish from
the shore, and after about an hour beached one of the
ugliest brutes I have ever seen. With its dirty brown
back, dilating nostrils, raised repulsive eyes, and a long
whip tail, this fish was indeed a hideous object, and
its appearance did not belie it, for here indeed was
one of the most terrible forms of death lurking in the
ocean.

It is armed like its prototype, the leopard or whip-ray,
with a dagger in the tail, but this is a much more formid-
able weapon, fashioned of ivory about 9 to 12 inches
long, and serrated down the edge like fish-hook barbs.
On coming into contact with any object, the tail with
this projecting dagger flashes round, and piercing the
flesh of its victim, produces a deep puncture, into which
a most virulent poison is transmitted. The effect of
4

so BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

this poison is as follows : after being struck, the victim
is seized with violent spasms and muscular contrac-
tion, the body arches almost rigidly, black blood is
vomited, and death ensues within three to six minutes.
Two cases of death were recorded comparatively recently
from Savanna La Mar, also one from Taboguilla, and
my boatman had a friend killed in the manner described.
Griffiths therefore views this fish with the utmost
loathing and horror.

Having beached the fish, our difficulty now was how
to kill it, which was essential before the hook could be
removed from the mouth. A large log of wood thrown
up by the sea seemed to offer an opportune weapon.
Raising this on high, time and again we struck the
reptilian-like beast on the head, each time the tail curling
over. Ultimately we solved the difficulty by working a
log of wood across the tail, thereby preventing it raising
up, and then with a long knife severed it from the body
together with the poisonous dagger. I was able in this
way to measure it and obtain several photographs. It
weighed 260 pounds.

The vitality of this creature was marvellous. After
I had performed an autopsy upon it and when completely
severed, each portion for long after retained consider-
able signs of life.

50 ]

DOUBLE DAGGER OF FEMALE RAY (p. 56).

CHAPTER VI

FIGHT WITH A STING-RAY — IN DANGER OF AN
AWFUL DEATH

It was the first time I had landed on the coast in this
district, and I took the opportunity of exploring the
beach. Where coco-nut palms and the sea-grape trees
grew close to the water’s edge in a beautiful little sandy
cove I decided would make an excellent day camping-
ground, and that from here I could easily work and
examine a big coral reef situated about half a mile
from shore. Large fish appeared to be in numbers
in this locality, so that it seemed worth while giving
the place a thorough trial.

I returned to Black River, bringing with me the long
whip tail and dagger for the purpose of preservation,
and the following morning before daybreak, accompanied
by Lady Richmond Brown, and with the usual camping
paraphernalia, we departed for the aforementioned
cove. We also carried the big net, which was now
completed. This net was 300 yards long and 7 yards
deep, the entire length buoyed with cork wood, so that
it would drop from the surface of the water to the bottom ;
two big stones moored it at each end in order to keep it
in position.

We arrived at our destination just after daybreak,
and landing Lady Brown on the beach, proceeded to
lay our net about a hundred yards off shore, the bottom
here being covered with sea-grass, food beloved of turtles
and sea-cows. By the time we had accomplished this
and had returned to the beach, the kettle was boiling
and the welcome smell of coffee rose to our nostrils.

52 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

I can vouch for the fact that there, in the first rays of
the morning sun, breakfast certainly tasted good.

By this time I had become so acclimatised to the sun
that my entire clothing often consisted only of shorts and
a hat, and I must confess that this costume (or lack of
it) is one of the most comfortable I know in the tropics.

Near our camping-ground a point of land ran out
towards the coral reef, and here the mangroves were
not only growing right down to the sea, but for some
distance out into the shallow water, and I spent much
time investigating the extraordinary ' sea-life that ex-
isted in this natural home. At some time a considerable
storm must have raged on the coast, for carried far up
among the mangroves were quantities of shells, and we
were able to make a large collection, some of them being
of extraordinary shape, colouring, and beauty.^

The rest of the day we spent wading out to the coral
reef, collecting various specimens of coral and sea-shells,
and examining the multitudinous variety of crabs
inhabiting what can be described as an ichthyical
metropolis for the smaller Crustacea.

On returning we examined the net, and found two
large crawfish entangled in the mesh where it rested
on the bottom. They weighed about 6 pounds each.
After resetting the net we returned to Black River,
leaving our culinary impedimenta behind.

The following morning we again visited this spot and
when still some distance off could see, by the clustering
in a heap of the cork floats in several places on the*
surface of the sea, that prey of some description had be-
come enmeshed in the net.

As we approached closer we could observe that every
now and then the corks would submerge ; something
entangled was evidently endeavouring to escape, drag-
ging the net after it, and on coming alongside, we dis-
covered two turtles and a small shark. Griffiths again
regaled us with the fact that he knew there would be
“ game ” in the net, as last night he had once more

^ See photograph at p* 114.

FIGHT WITH A STING-RAY 53

“ dreamed a dream.” This time he had ” dreamed ”
of yellow — ^to dream of this colour, he gave us to under-
stand, is immensely lucky, hence he was sure there
would be ” game ” in the net.

After considerable trouble we managed to kill the
shark, which had bitten and torn the net badly, and
then set to work to liberate the turtles from the wad
of mesh which they had wrapped round themselves.
This took quite a little time. They were both of the
green, edible sort, one weighing 40 pounds and the other
102. We had visions of turtle steak and soup for several
days to come, and if there is anything more delicious
in this world I have yet to discover it.

The net being so badly torn, we decided to take it
back to the village to be mended ; but on raising it,
a considerably greater weight than the net immediately
became apparent. On hauling it in we discovered no
less than five conks, which in crawling along the bottom
had become enmeshed, and six crawfish. These latter
are excellent eating. Personally I think they are better
than the English lobster, and are always a welcome
addition to the menu. I should think these must have
averaged over 7 pounds each in weight.

As the net would take several hours to mend, we left
the cove immediately, and proceeded home, when quite
unexpectedly a breeze began to blow strongly in from
outside, kicking up a nasty sea, which before we reached
Black River was flopping over the sides of the boat,
necessitating constant baling. When we arrived we
found it very difficult to land, owing to the breaking of
the surf, but this was accomplished by jumping out,
keeping the dug-out straight, and running it high up on
the shore on the top of a wave ; and while Griffiths spent
the rest of the day repairing the net, I employed myself
in thoroughly overhauling my tackle, which I discovered
was sadly in need of this attention.

Griffiths arrived early the following morning ; this
time he had ” dreamed a dream ” which was ” bad-
lucky.” It had something to do with a mule — I really

54 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

forget what it was, but there was no doubt about the
bad luck. Owing to the strong inshore breeze it had
been impossible to procure any bait, and the net would
require several days to mend. There was therefore
nothing to do but take it easy.

The following day, however, the sea was like a mill-
pond, and bait having been procured, it was decided to
go after the big sting-rays once more. I felt most in-
terested in the habits of these strange fish, which were
apparently quite local, their habitation seemingly
being where the bottom of the sea was more or less
composed of a muddy mixture from which grew masses
of sea-grasses. This time I took considerable precau-
tions, realising the extreme danger one had to contend
with, and that, after hooking one of these fish, it had
ultimately to be brought alongside the dug-out ; there-
fore I carried a '45 Colt automatic in my belt.

Arriving on the fishing-ground, the sea was still with-
out a ripple, and looking down through the brilliantly
clear water I noticed a number of conk-shells. They
appeared to be of two distinct species, one much larger
than the other, and differing in shape. In performing
the autopsy on the previous ray I had captured, I
noticed the mouth was entirely without teeth, but
fitted with immensely strong crushers.

On the Jersey coast the Channel bass follow in behind
the big rollers, and as the surf turns up the sand, dis-
closing large clams on the bottom, they dive down,
and take the shell-fish in its entirety within their mouths,
crushing it up, spitting out the shell, and devouring
the pulpy substance within. Recollecting the feeding
habits of these fish, the idea came to me that the sting-
ray might similarly feed on the conks here.

I determined to try the conks for bait, and slipping
over the side of the dug-out, dived to the bottom, and
gathered half a dozen. We took them ashore, and
smashing the shells, extracted the mollusc within. We
then paddled about 200 yards out, and dropped our
mooring stone. Using the whole for a bait (they weigh

FIGHT WITH A STING-RAY SS

about half to three-quarters of a pound), I cast out,
and within a few minutes off went the line, and on
striking I knew I was fast into another of these curious
fish. It is remarkable what a tiring business it is
fighting these flat brutes on rod and line, and it becomes
really a question of endurance. On this occasion it
must have been considerably over an hour before I
was able to get the creature to the surface, when it
immediately commenced to thrash the water with its
flappers or wings, lashing continually with its tail.
With the utmost care it was slowly manipulated close
to the dug-out, when I fired four shots from my automatic
through its head. This was followed by one terrific
flurry, after which it was perfectly quiet.

We passed a rope through the curious, nostril-like
apertures, situated in what may be described as the
head, and tied it close up to the stern of the dug-out,
and were just going to paddle ashore, towing it behind
us, when suddenly it came violently to life. Its whip
curled over the stern, and its flappers began to thrash
the water in a most alarming way. We thereupon
immediately made for the bow of the boat, where we
were out of danger, but the thrashing became intensified,
acting almost in the fashion of a ship's propeller.
Round and round we commenced to circle, while the
convulsions of the fish seemed to gain in strength and
force every minute. Our little craft was rocking
violently, water coming over the sides, and we realised
that to be submerged with this death-dealing menace in
such close proximity would be a most serious matter,
when quite suddenly it ceased, and with a feeling of
extreme thankfulness we commenced to paddle shoreward.

During the tedious process of towing the fish had
shown no further signs of life, and in the belief that
the bullets fired into it had done their work, and that
it was now dead, Griffiths, on our grounding on the
sand, got the gaff into it for the purpose of dragging it
ashore, when again the brute came actively to life.
Now indeed we were in danger. To fling it off from the

56 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

gaff was almost impossible, as it was close alongside
the dug-out in only about a foot or so of water, with
its tail stretching underneath the keel. There was
only one thing to do, and that was to attack it as best
one could. Griffiths, by exerting the whole of his
strength, held it still closer to the boat, and seizing
this opportunity I was able to plunge the big knife I
carried into it time and again, but the minutes seemed
hours before it was quiet. Lady Brown, who had
meanwhile scrambled ashore, I subsequently discovered
had actually managed, with the enthusiasm of the ardent
photographer, to take the extraordinary and unique
photogra-ph shown, and so far as I am concerned, I sin-
cerely trust there will never be another one taken like it.

This fish (a female) was larger than my previous one,
weighing nearly 300 pounds, the tail being armed with
a double dagger instead of a single (in this respect
resembling the leopard- or whip-ray) which is disclosed
in the photograph, taken after the tail had been severed
from the body.

I afterwards performed an autopsy on this fish, dis-
covering that the young are born perfect, including the
whip-like appendage, though the dagger-shaped weapon
is developed after birth.

It is a most extraordinary fact that various members
of this species seem to exhibit a remarkable similarity
to both bird, reptile, and mammal. These ray are
considered by many to be in reality a type of flattcned-
out shark, but it is a strange fact that their habits are
quite different from those of the shark family.

No more fishing was done this day, and we devoted
our time to collecting various coral specimens.

I spent the next few days in obtaining a number of
the different species of large conks which I had pre-
viously discovered living among the grasses at the
bottom of the sea, after which we decided to work
farther afield ; but as Lady Brown and I both went
down within a few hours of each othpr with a mild
attack of malaria, this had to be postponedfor overaweek.

IN DANGER OF AN AWFUL DEATH (p. 56).
Landing 300-lb. stmg-ray

56]

-lOl-LB SNOOK. A BEAUTIFUL FISH (p. 61).

CHAPTER VII

OUR NET IS RUINED BY A BIG SHARK — I CATCH A RECORD

SNOOK

Some miles from Black River, in the opposite direction
to where we had hitherto been fishing, the land runs
out to a point known as Parattee, while a short distance
farther on round the bend is the little village of Pedro,
and off here, as I shall subsequently relate, we caught
our greatest fish. This locality, owing to the sea-
breeze getting up every day with unfailing regularity
round twelve o’clock, can only be fished during the
morning, and as it is some distance from Black River,
it entails leaving considerably before daybreak, whilst
to arrive there it is necessary to traverse quite a net-
work of coral reefs. Ignorance of the water here
would almost certainly entail running on to one of
these continual menaces of tropical seas, but there are
usually openings where fish of all descriptions and
turtles pass through to feed on the sea-grasses growing
between the reefs and the shore.

I do not know why, but there always seems to be an
intense fascination in exploring and examining these
coral beds. What an immense variety of fish, Crustacea,
etc,, make these natural fortresses their hornet An
entire life could be devoted to research work here alone,
and I believe the facts obtained would be of considerable
value. From this district we were able to send home
crates containing over 4,000 specimens.

To enumerate only a few of the curious fish that
inhabit the Caribbean Sea round Jamaica : there are
the cow-fish, having a double protuberance in front of
the head, almost like miniature horns ; the sea-hedgehog

58 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

or urchin-fish, which can at will inflate itself up to
almost twice the size of a football, the strong quills
which cover it then stiffly erect instead of lying perfectly
smooth, as when swimming. I was fortunate enough
to obtain specimens of these, which are mounted and
can be seen at the British Sea Anglers’ Society.

Again, you have the blow-fish, which also has the
power of inflating itself. It is minus the quills, but
has an extremely strong beak-like mouth with which
it is able to detach the oysters growing on the mangrove
roots and, crushing them up, eat the contents.

I counted here no less than seven varieties of sea-
eggs, and an extraordinary-looking jelly-like fish,
resembling a hippopotamus ; but to describe and
enumerate all the strange creatures that dwell in these
waters would occupy many volumes.

As far as the fishing was concerned, the first day or
two off Parattee proved disappointing in the way of
big fish. Lady Brown and Griffiths on light tackle
were doing very well, getting miscellaneous baskets of
forty or fifty red snappers averaging about a pound —
bony fish — ^and small jack, some of the latter running
up to 3 and 4 pounds in weight. Jack of this size are
excellent eating, and so are the red snappers — in fact,
a 2-pound red snapper can compare favourably
with any fish I know. I also had the big net out here,
and during this time it yielded more green turtles from
50 to 120 pounds in weight. It is difficult to realise,
with the plethora of turtle soup and steaks we had
been having (turtle here being worth only fourpence or
fivepence a pound), the huge price paid in London and
New York by connoisseurs in this delicacy,

A day of reckoning, however, was approaching for
the toll we had taken of turtles. It was shortly after
this, going out in the early morning to visit the net,
that we witnessed an extraordinary sight. The entire
300-yards length of mesh and corks seemed to have
converged on the surface into one huge heap, which
ever and anon disappeared completely. Evidently

A RECORD SNOOK 59

something of a size we had never yet experienced had
entered and become entangled, the power and strength
of the creature being such that the mooring stones
which stretched the net out had been torn from the
bottom and almost dragged together.

We approached warily, and on coming close up a
terrific agitation of the water took place, and an
immense dark shape could plainly be seen hopelessly
wound round in virtually the entire length of the net.
We saw at once that to attempt any disentanglement
would be impossible, and returning to Black River,
sought the assistance of three more dug-outs, for we
could see that obviously the only way to handle this
huge fish was to tow the whole mass en bloc back to
the village. After considerable difficulty it was secured
to the various crafts, and the return commenced.

What with the weight of the dragging net, the bulk
of the fish, coupled with its struggles to escape, it was
some hours before it was finally beached on the sands
close to the mouth of the Black River.

We then discovered it to be a shovel-nose shark —
the largest fish we had encountered up to this. It
took the whole of the rest of the day to get the brute
clear of the tangled mass. It weighed 612 pounds,
was II feet in length and 6 feet 3 inches in circum-
ference. This fish, like the Port Antonio shark, was in
poor condition.

It happened to be market-day in Black River. From
all parts of the country natives assemble here with
their produce. These people, living up-country, had
never seen a fish of anything like these dimensions ;
the result was that the usual crowd of Black River
natives, reinforced by the country contingent, shortly
consisted of hundreds of people, who flocked round in
the greatest excitement.

On autopsy I found the interior contained nearly
1 50 pounds of other fish, one being a whip-ray of over
50 pounds, with scarcely a tooth mark on it, having
apparently been recently swallowed at one gulp. I

60 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

carefully preserved the jaws and vertebrae, and sent
the hide to the local tannery ; but the net took days
to repair.

While this was being done, I amused myself by
fishing the mouth of the Black River, and the very next
day on rod and line I struck into another shark, which
put up a tremendous fight, taking over an hour and a
half before it was finally landed. It proved to be a
sand-shark. This species is beautifully symmetrical ;
with a pure white belly and black tips to the pectoral
fins, it is really quite a handsome fish.

The following day I determined to try for a big jack.
Up till now the largest had been round 45 pounds ;
this was not what I wanted. After the tales with
which I had been regaled in regard to the size of these
fish obtained here, and on two or three occasions having
personally seen very large ones striking and smashing
the mullet and bait in all directions, I was convinced of
the existence of far larger fish of this species than any
I had previously caught.

We were fortunate enough to obtain about twelve
small live snappers, which constitute excellent bait,
but they must be used alive, a dead bait being utterly
useless for the jack here.

Early in the morning, pushing the boat from the
bank, and mooring it 10 to 20 yards out in the mouth
of the river, we commenced our fishing.

I had four runs in succession, but on striking, not
once did I touch the fish, though on each occasion the
bait disappeared. It is extraordinary how this happens
some days. Again I had a run and this time struck
almost as soon as the fish started to move. Simul-
taneously with my striking, clear of the water jumped
a splendidly shaped fish, which I immediately saw was
a snook. I soon brought him alongside, and on weigh-
ing found the scale turned at 20 J pounds. Being only
lightly hooked it was at once replaced in the water.
Following this I had three runs hard on top of each
other, but I simply could not drive the hook home.

A RECORD SNOOK 6i

I had now got to my last bait, which, being really
too small for the purpose, had not been used before ;
so casting out the last hope of the morning I waited
with considerable keenness to see whether I would be
able to land a fish, if a run occurred. Grifl&ths had
“ dreamed no dream,” so the outlook was neutral.
Suddenly I had a quick run and struck sharply. The
line whistled in a semicircle, then with considerable
rapidity the fish passed right close alongside the boat,
making upstream. I checked its endeavours within
40 yards, and after playing carefully, brought alongside
the dug-out a really splendid snook, far larger than any
I had previously caught, and one which may, I imagine,
constitute a record on rod and line; Compared with
great rays, sharks, etc., the poundage of this fish may
sound small, but for this particular species it was quite
abnormal, though I have every reason to believe they
grow much larger. It weighed 40 i pounds and was a
beautiful fish, the brilliant silver relieved by a long
dark stripe along the sides, in a way somewhat resem-
bling the striped bass of the United States Atlantic
seaboard.

An excellent series of photographs of the catching and
landing of this fish was obtained, and it later proved to
be very good eating — ^not at all coarse, as most large
fish of the various species are.

By persistent fishing my records of fish were slowly
mounting up, ranging from the 4oi-pound snook to the
612-pound shark, and the knowledge I was enabled to
obtain of big-game fishing was proving extremely
valuable to me for future occasions.

I had yet, however, to encounter my mightier
opponents, but had the conviction that it was only a
question of time before this would be achieved.

Having had no luck with the jack at the mouth of
the river, I decided to run out towards Pedro, and
started -early next morning with this object in view ;
but when close to Parattee Point I so much liked the
look of the water where a deep channel ran towards the

62 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

shore through a coral reef that I decided to give it a
trial.

On dropping the mooring stone we found this was
the deepest water we had yet attempted to fish, being
between five and six fathoms, I believe premonitions,
as in my case, extend to other fishermen as well, and
it is certain that on this morning I had a feeling that
trouble was brewing. This may possibly have been
engendered by the fact that almost simultaneously
with our dropping the mooring stone, two large dorsal
fins were observed lazily cutting the water within a
hundred yards of the boat.

“ Griffiths, it looks as if I’m going to get smashed up
with sharks,”

“ So it is, Boss, so it is,” replied my ebony sportsman
in his curious English,

I had recently received a consignment of strong
S4-thread line from Messrs, Hardy Bros., up till now
having used nothing heavier than 36. But having
seen the friendly (?) fins of his majesty the shark, and
judging by the size that these fish must run anything
in length from ii to 13 feet, I removed the whole of
my 36-thread line from the reel, substituting for it
the S4-

I had just finished changing my tackle when I was
startled by a most extraordinary noise within a few
yards of the dug-out. Glancing hastily round, I caught
a glimpse of two large roundish brown substances
submerge in the water, which now boiled furiously above.

” What the devil is that, Griffiths ? ” I asked.

” Him cow, Backra.”

I waited, watching the surface expectantly, when
dear of the water, about 20 yards from the dug-out,
two heads appeared, expelling air with a curious noise
that is indescribable They were obviously the male
and female — ^immense brutes — I should judge larger
than our domestic cow, though I had here better mention
that this amphibioiis mammal has no horns. Slowly
they passed through the channel in the reef.

A RECORD SNOOK 63

“ They’re going inside to feed on the sea-grass,” I
said. “ I want to photograph one of them badly. As
soon as we can we must stretch the net out here ; we
may be lucky enough to catch one.”

“ We will, Boss, we will ; and the meat fetches more
money than beef.” Griffiths evidently visualised a
fortune, my photograph being a secondary considera-
tion !

For a long distance we watched them travel up the
shore. So absorbing were these creatures that fully
half an hour elapsed before I realised that if I was
going to do any fishing that morning I had better
begin, so impaling a large bait upon the hook, I cast
well out in the hope of christening my new line with a
record fish.

Now commenced one of those irritating periods known
to all fishermen, when small fish will constantly niggle
the bait. Time after time I reeled in, to find only skin
remaining on the hook.

“ Half an hour more,” I said, casting out a fresh
bait, ” and we’ll give the fishing here best,”

CHAPTER VIII

BATTLE WITH A GIANT RAY

The rod was placed in the bottom of the boat with the
point over the side, and I commenced to fill my pipe,
when in the midst of this most necessary operation the
reel started to revolve; My hope of a peaceful pipe
was nipped in the bud. Raising the rod, I gently felt
the moving line, and, slowly applying the brake, struck,
but I might just as well have toven my hook into the
bed of the ocean for all the give I felt. The run con-
tinued — ^twirling the screw I applied tremendous
pressure, when suddenly the fish stopped. Then quite
unexpectedly came a violent rush that nearly tore me
out of my seat, and only a miracle saved the dug-out
from turning turtle. Luckily I was gripping the rod
firmly with both hands, otherwise it must have dis-
appeared.

“ For God's sake get that mooring stone up, Griffiths I
I’m into a huge shark II”

As soon as the stone left the bottom, we shot ahead in
the wake of the great fish ; putting every ounce of
strain on the line I dared, I now let the hidden monster
tow us. At first I thought I was into a big shark, but
now I knew by the motion of the bulk beneath the
surffice that I had been mistaken. That it was some-
thing mighty I early realised, something that only
a question of time and endurance would finally
conquer, and I reconciled myself to a long-drawn-out
battle.

By now the fish had passed completely through the
chaimel and was travelling along the bottom in the

64

BATTLE WITH A GIANT RAY 65

shallower water between the reef and shore ; but,
quickly changing its tactics, with a wide circular move-
ment it once again made for the entrance to the open
sea, shot through, and commenced to travel down the
coast, keeping close to the outer side of the reef. Again
it changed its tactics, this time straight out towards the
main ocean, and it continued steadily in this way for
at least three miles.

Any attempt to play this leviathan in the ordinary
way was entirely out of the question — ^all I could do
was to keep an equal pressure on the line, and guard
against a possible rapid doubling, or the other hundred-
and-one eccentric movements usually employed by a
hooked fish.

By this time we were getting very anxious, not
knowing how far out we might be towed ; and, remem-
bering the strong breeze which invariably started up at
midday, the outlook was far from promising, for I
knew tlxat if the fight continued until the sea got up,
any chance of landing a monster of this description in
choppy water, with waves breaking over our little boat,
was infinitesimal. It was therefore an immense relief
when the fish slowly performed a large semicircle and
commenced to travel towards shore.

By now nearly two hours must have passed, and
Griffiths, detaching the leather belt round my waist,
in the centre of which is fashioned a strong pocket for
taking the butt of the rod, thus relieving some of the
strain, fastened it round his own middle, and relieving
me of the rod, carried on the fight, whilst I sat in the
stern steering the dug-out in the wake of this seemingly
inexhaustible creature.

After the first wild dash it had continued work-
ing close to the bottom at a moderate pace (totally
different from the velocity of the shark), and this
now becoming perceptibly slower, I was reasonably
certain by its fighting tactics into what I had
struck.

“ We’re into another huge ray 1 ” I said.

5

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

“ I think it, Backra, him damned big sea-devil,”
replied the perspiring Griffiths.

Back in towards the reef the fish was still swimming,
heading almost straight for the channel wherein I had
originally hooked it, and on arriving close, once more
it stopped. It was exactly as if the line was fixed in
the coral — ^neither jerking, pumping, nor jarring the
line would apparently dislodge the brute. Had it not
every now and then moved a foot or two, I should
really have believed we were snagged, but as it was, it
was quite obvious the fish was sulking or resting. As a
matter of fact, I verily believe it was the latter, for
after remaining like this for over half an hour, it sud-
denly charged once more, apparently as full of vitality

as ever, straight through the opening in the reef into
the shallow water shorewards. For a long time up and
down parallel with the shore, slowly but persistently it
swam. Just before its race through the reef channel I
had taken over the rod, and now the strain, coupled
with the blaze of the sun and heat, was almost past
human endurance, nothing but the continued excite-
ment keeping me going. The breeze was now blowing
strongly from the sea, but fortunately inside the coral
barrier we were not affected by the troubled water
without, but I knew by the wind it was past midday,
and that we must have been fighting the creature for
over four hours. It now resumed its sulking, hugging
the bottom after every run of 30 to 40 yards. Per-
sistently we manipulated this strange adversary nearer
the shore, where the depth of water beneath us was not
more than 5 feet. Sixty yards away firom the boat
there was suddenly a tremendous smashing and lashing,
creating showers of spray and a veritable whirlpool!
In the midst of the vortex we could see a thin black tail
curling spasmodically.

My ^d, Griffiths, it's a giant ray. How on earth
we re gomg to land it beats me I ”

thoroughly excited

Gnffiths. We land him if stay all night.”

66 ]

DRAGGING THE LEOPARD-RAY ASHORE (p 68).

BATTLE WITH A GIANT RAY 67

The fish submerged, but ever and anon the black tail
appeared above the surface — ^and slowly we were getting
closer to the shore.

Here, just above the tide mark, where the sea-grape
and coco-nut trees grow almost to the water's edge,
are about five or six thatched native huts — little
isolated colony of native fishermen, eight or ten of
whom had for some time been watching the fight. I
have always found the men in this part of the world
splendid fellows and I knew I could count on their
assistance. I felt certain I could beach the fish in
shallow water. It was well past 2 o'clock before I
finally worked the fish up on the sand close to the
beach. The great bulk appeared almost lifeless, being
thoroughly played out, and having landed from the
boat, I was thankful myself to squat down and rest,
meanwhile keeping the line taut. If only there had
been a big rise and fall of tide, as in the Pacific, it would
have been a simple matter to have left it until the ebb,
when I could easily have got my series of photographs,
but here, varying only a few inches, the sea remains at
the same level year in and year out. I dared not
attempt myself — or let others try — ^to drag the fish up
on the beachj, owing to the poisonous dagger in the tail —
an ever-present source of danger.

How I cursed the fact that I had left my automatic
behind. However, two or three of the natives volun-
teered to go to Black River in their dug-outs and fetch
it. Hoisting their curious little sail, with the strong
sea-breeze behind them, they passed out of the channel,
and rapidly scurried across the rough surface to the
village, taking a very short time to reach there. But it
was an entirely different story on the return : with the
wind dead in their teeth it entailed paddling back
virtually the whole distance.

I sat on the beach eagerly awaiting them and hoping
the light would remain good for me to get my photo-
graphs, It was an hour and three-quarters before they
finally arrived, but the sun was still high. I fired six

68 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

shots through the brute's head, and then, with an ever-
wary eye on the tail, we all waded in, fastened
a rope through the nostril-like apertures, and with
a “ heave ho ! all together I ” were able to drag it
ashore.

It was a remarkable fish of the leopard- or whip-
ray species, the back being covered with white spots,
as can be seen in the photographs, of which a splendid
series was obtained. This really awe-inspiring brute
measured 7 feet 6 inches across the wings, 6 feet 9
inches from head to base of tail, the whip tail from
base to tip being 9 feet 6 inches, so the total length
from tip of head to tip of tail was 16 feet 3 inches,
and its weight 410 pounds. This by a long way
broke !all my previous records of weight captured on
rod and line, my former largest being the shark of
237J pounds.

Both Griffiths and I were now suffering from the
tremendous reaction following our hours of fighting.
While the excitement was on we had not realised this,
but now we both found our strength at such a low ebb
that it was impossible for us to paddle back to Black
River, and here again our friends, the native fishermen,
came to our assistance, and while we sailed in one of
their large dug-outs, our little boat was brought
home.

The following day I was so stiff that it was almost
painful to move round the room, so I had perforcje to
remain indoors.

It was a most extraordinary piece of luck that I had
changed my 36-thread line to the 54, for it would have
been utterly impossible to have played this fish on the
finer line. '*

Reading this through, I realise that it gives a very
inadequate description of what a fight with such a great
fish is really like. It has to be actually experienced
before the amount of physical endurance necessary
to stand a strain like this, lasting several hours, can be
fully appreciated, especially when the climatic conditions

68 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

shots through the brute’s head, and then, with an ever-
wary eye on the tail, we all waded in, fastened
a rope through the nostril-like apertures, and with
a “ heave ho f all together 1 ” were able to drag it
ashore.

It was a remarkable fish of the leopard- or whip-
ray species, the back being covered with white spots,
as can be seen in the photographs, of which a splendid
series was obtained. This really awe-inspiring brute
measured 7 feet 6 inches across the wings, 6 feet 9
inches from head to base of tail, the whip tail from
base to tip being 9 feet 6 inches, so the total length
from tip of head to tip of tail was 16 feet 3 inches,
and its weight 410 pounds. This by a long way
broke lall my previous records of weight captured on
rod and line, my former largest being the shark of
23 7 J pounds.

Both Griffiths and I were now suffering from the
tremendous reaction following oiur hours of fighting.
While the excitement was on we had not realised this,
but now we both found our strength at such a low ebb
that it was impossible for us to paddle back to Black
River, and here again our friends, the native fishermen,
came to our assistance, and while we sailed in one of
their large dug-outs, our little boat was brought
home.

The following day I was so stiff that it was almost
painful to move round the room, so I had perforce to
remain indoors.

It was a most extraordinary piece of luck that I had
changed my 36-thread line to the 54, for it would have
been utterly impossible to have played this fish on the
finer line. *

Reading this through, I realise that it gives a very
inadequate description of what a fight with such a great
fish is really like. It has to be actually experienced
before the amount of physical endurance necessary
to stand a strain like this, lasting several hours, can be
fully appreciated, especially when the climatic conditions

BATTLE WITH A GIANT RAY 69

are taken into consideration. All those who have
played cricket, tennis, etc., on a very hot day will have
some small idea how the blazing sun and heat of the
tropics tells on one when the human frame is sub-
jected to strenuous exertions such as have just been
described.

CHAPTER IX

WE LAND A BIG BARRACOUDA, AND WITNESS A BATTLE
BETWEEN SHARK AND SEA-COW

I TOOK it easy for the next few days, doing no fishing,
but making a thorough exploration of the reefs off
Parattee Point. This work is a never-ending source
of pleasure to me. In the shallow water between this
particular reef and the shore, which in no place is deeper
than the height of one’s shoulders, is the home of some
of the largest and most exquisite Queen shells I have
ever seen. We were able to add several specimens to
our collection, and some curious sea-eggs, quite different
from any we. had yet come across. These coral reefs
with their attendant pools and lagoons are virtually
marine gardens, with innumerable gloriously parti-
coloured miniature fish, sea-anemones, and perfect
coral growths, all of which can plainly be watched
beneath the clear water.

I worked from Parattee down the coast, once again
meeting the little colony of natives who had helped so
valiantly in the capture of the big ray. I found the
dark ladies, like their white prototypes, extremely
inquisitive. They were very curious to know why I
wanted to capture these great fish, which were of no
possible use for food and therefore could not be sold
in the market. One matron, who was followed every-
su astonishing number of offspring, was most
soEcitous in her enquiries as to whether I had a family.
The question of whether I was married or not did not
appear to interest her — I don't think she had ever
heard of that civilised institution. I told her I hadn't
even one child, whereupon she replied : “ You poor

BATTLE BETWEEN SHARK AND SEA-COW 71

thing, we have too many plenty ” — which certainly
in her case was a self-evident fact.

They were a happy little group, childlike and simple,
and I really believe a great deal happier in their perfect
freedom than are the vast numbers of people crowded
into great cities like London or New York. It is always
a surprise to me why so many millions of ultra-gregarious
humanity crowd together in the great towns, when
there are vast tracts of country still in existence where
amidst almost perpetual sunshine, plenty of food, and
without much exertion, an ample living can be derived,
and where, in comparison to their present lives, they
could actually luxuriate.

I always notice on my return to big cities that a species
of inertia seems to have crept over people, whereby
they have got into a rutted existence, restricting the
horizon of their vision to such a small confine that they
virtually live and die in the one spot, their knowledge
of the rest of the world being almost nil. I am not
sure that I could not spend what remains of my life in
the tropics ; certain it is that whenever I have returned
to ultra-civilised countries, before a few months have
passed there comes a strong, insistent cry recalling me.
Much has been written about the “ lure of the tropics,”
and how those who have lived there are impelled
sooner or later to return. I can certainly vouch for
the truth of this in my own case, and know several
other people who have the same feeling. After all,
the amazing futility of modern city life must surely
be apparent to all.

To return to our fishing.

After the few days spent in thoroughly examining
these reefs and adding specimens to our collection,
accompanied by Lady Richmond Brown, who had
been suffering from intermittent attacks of malaria,
and had thus been on and off " under the weather,” I
determined again to fish the entrance of the channel
where I had caught my big leopard-ray, but upon arrival
found the fishing most disappointing. For over two

7^ BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

hours I waited in vain for a telegraphic transmission
up the line, the usual forerunner of a battle-royal, but
as there was nothing doing we pulled up the mooring
stone and proceeded farther up the coast to beyond
Parattee Point.

The big fish were apparently dead off feed, so I sat
in the bow pulling away at my pipe, while Lady Brown
and Griffiths proceeded to catch a number of small
fish, their endeavours being amply rewarded. For the
sake of something to do, a small live jack of about
half a pound having been brought to the surface, I im-
paled it on my own hook, and cast out, resuming my
drowsy state, to be rudely brought back to earth by
the line being tom off the reel with immense rapidity.
Plying the brake, I struck hard. Over went the tip
of the rod and off rushed a big fish. By the movement
under the water I could tell distinctly he was shaking
his head like a bulldog, when presently he, came to the
surface, smashing almost clear of the water. There
was no need to speculate what I had on. My luck was
certainly in for hooking record fish, for here, making
the wildest endeavours to break free, was " some ”
barracouda. We were not far from the shore, so Griffiths
raised the mooring stone and we worked the dug-out
on to the beach, from which I proceeded to play the
fish. He put up a tremendous fight, but after about
half an hour we succeeded in landing him, and I am
indebted to Lady Richmond Brown for the excellent
series of photographs which she took during the actual
playing and landing.

On getting this fine specimen of the species ashore, we
found it measured 5 feet 6 inches in length and weighed
66 pounds.

This fish is one of the most ferocious denizens of the
ocean, second offiy to the shark— in fact, there are
many that aver it is even more to be feared than the
“ tiger of ^e deep.” At almost the same time that I
caught this one, a tragedy took place at Tampa Bay
Florida, which is described by the New York American

72 ]

66-lb. barracouda (p. 72).
THE WOLF OF THE SEA

BATTLE BETWEEN SHARK AND SEA-COW 73

and provides an instance of the savagery of this
species :

" Two girls, named Dorothy McClatchie and Mary
Buhner, were swimming round the Channel buoy and
were just starting back towards the St. Petersburg
Pier, when suddenly there came a rush and a swirl
and Miss McClatchie was dragged beneath the water.
A searing pain shot through her leg — something had
caught her above the knee, and was shaking her as
a terrier shakes a rat. The thing was tearing at her,
ripping up the inside of her leg to the thigh. A slim
shape darted back into the depths, and the water rapidly
became reddened all round. The poor girl sobbed out
to her friend that something had bitten off her foot.
Mary Buhner did all she could to save her friend. She
had seen the fish that had attacked, and knew it to be
a giant barracouda. As the shark is known as the
‘ tiger of the deep,’ so this fish, because of its ferocity
and mercilessness, is called the ‘ wolf of the seas.’ Miss
Buhner, with great heroism, stuck to her friend, aiding
her in every way possible. A man named George Roe,
watching the swimmers through his field-glasses, saw
they were in trouble, and, rushing down to the beach,
jumped into a boat and went to their assistance ; but
although a period of only twenty minutes had elapsed
between this terrible creature’s attack on Miss Mc-
Clatchie to the time both girls were rescued and got into
the boat, yet on her being raised from the water her heart
had stopped beating. So terribly had she been torn
by this ferocious creature that she had bled to death.
At the hospital the doctors found the femoral artery
had been severed in the thigh. The wound extended
from the knee along the inside of the leg. There were
two deep gashes clean as knife-cuts above the knee.
Between the gashes on both sides of the leg were ragged
cuts from the upper and lower jaws of the ‘ sea-wolf ’
that had killed this poor girl.”

I had no compunction in riding the sea of this merciless
creature. The jaws, which are fitted with teeth , of

74 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

almost razor-like sharpness, and the entire skull, I
have carefully preserved and brought back with me.

After this exciting episode we returned to Black
River. Our net was at last once more in perfect con-
dition after the enmeshing of the 612-pound shark.
It had to have whole sections put in, which took a lot
of time, and now we left for Parattee to lay it, in the
hopes of catching one of the big sea-cows. A long tirne
was occupied in finding a suitable place for this, as it
was necessary that the net should be clear of all coral
formations, so we did no fishing, and decided to walk
the few miles between here and Black River along the
sandy shore, Grifiiths returning in the dug-out.

Down the beach some native fishermen were busily-
engaged in seining. This method consists in running
a long net out from the beach in a circle, three or four
natives then hauling each end, dragging it ashore. It
is fitted with a big bag in the centre, and when brought
up, it is astonishing to find what a heterogeneous collec-
tion of sea-life is contained in the mesh-bag. We
watched this operation for some time — bony fish,
snappers, jacks, very large prawns, two big crawfish,
and an immense amount of fry were amongst them.
These hundreds of little fry are collected by the natives
and when cooked in a pan exactly resemble whitebait.
They presented us with a basketful of really magnificent
prawns, which are excellent not only from a culinary
point of view, but also make good bait for small red
snapper, jack, etc.

Early next morning we proceeded to see what game
the net held for us, and sure enough, before we reached
it, we knew that something large had become entangled,
and I was surprised to find an enormous turtle enmeshed.
Again I had recourse to my little colony of natives, for
we at once saw that it would be impossible for us to
disentangle and get this big creature into our dug-out.
It was really most pathetic the way its head kept coming
out of the water and blowing — ^almost like great sighs,
as if pleading for its release. Aided by two more boats,

“ IT WADDLED AWAY WITH LADY BROWN ON ITS BACK” (p 75).

BATTLE BETWEEN SHARK AND SEA-COW 75

we moved the net and turtle in one huge tangled heap
to the beach. He — or rather she — ^was a splendid
fellow ! and again I got some excellent pictures. I
persuaded Lady Brown to get on its back, and Griffiths
and I both holding it, she was able to get across it.
I had turned it facing the sea, and knowing the habits
of these creatures, I felt reasonably certain that as soon
as we let it go it would make for the water. We suddenly
released our hold, and sure enough away it waddled.
Lady Brown holding on like grim death. I was able
to get an excellent photograph of her in this position,
which quite made up for the very bad half-hour she
subsequently gave me for playing such a trick on her,
Griffiths meanwhile smiling and advising me to "Be
smooth and say nothing 1 ”

Something pathetic about this turtle made me feel so
sorry for her that I could not bear the thought of having
her Idlled, although the natives considered it a crime that
I should let her go ; but in spite of their protestations I
decided to give the poor thing her liberty. I am sure
she had a family somewhere that would miss her, so
off she flopped into the water, and I could almost swear
she emitted sighs of thankfulness.

We now collected the net, put it in the dug-out, and
returned.

That evening we witnessed one of the most glorious
sunsets ever seen ; and it was followed next day by an
even more beautiful sunrise. As we left with our net
to relay it, it is almost impossible to portray the beauty
of this tropical morfiing. Above the mountain barrier
in the east the dawn broke with the sky changing to
duck green. Slowly pink streamers radiated across the
heavens, and as the day rushed upon us, it was possible
to appreciate the full grandeur. Picture the mysterious
Caribbean, royal blue, changing to every shade of green
as it neared the coral reef 200 yards from the silver-
sanded shore. To the horizon in every direction, as
far as the eye could reach, glorious perfections of nature
were revealed, calm and serene. But how deceptive 1

^6 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

For hideously cruel is this apparently peaceful nature —
so relentless that instinctively one recoils with horror.
Watch ! see how this restful scene can be shattered by
cruelty almost beyond imagination. The day had fully
dawned, and arriving off Parattee Point, we laid our net,
and proceeded to shore, where we lit a fire and prepared
the breakfast we had brought with us. Lying there
we noticed the surface of the sea beyond the reef rippled
with mullet — ^fish from about i to 2 pounds disporting
themselves in the water. Suddenly there was a rush —
a perfect burst of foam, followed by many others. Now
the booming and smashing could be plainly heard from
shore, as a shoal of cavalli jack from 40 to 100 pounds
in weight dashed among the inoffensive mullet, tear-
ing and rending them in every direction. What a
slaughter ! The butchery had fairly commenced. In-
numerable sea-hawks and pelicans diving into the water
now joined in the destruction of lesser life. The surface
of the sea became alive with swarms of small fish darting
and leaping in every direction, in the vain hope of escap-
ing annihilation. I jumped to my feet and, seizing my
glasses, looked seaward. Yes, what I had been ex-
pecting was at hand ! There, cutting the surface of
the water, I could see the huge dorsal fin of a shark —
the “ tiger of the deep,” the lord and master of marine
life. The monster arrived with incredible speed. The
jack were still feeding on the mullet, unsuspecting
danger. A frightful convulsion shattered the surface
an 8o-pound jack burst into the air. Futile I
Unerringly the enormous jaws of the shark seized their
victim. In all directions fish great and small tore across
the surface. The sea-hawks and pelicans hovered over-
head — then stillness ; only the mighty fin passed back-
wards and forwards above the water.

Three hundred yards to leeward, stretching out to
sea, was my turtle net, and I watched with concern the
passage of the shark, for I knew from bitter experience
what would happen. If the great fish struck it and
became entangled, nothing could save the net from being

BATTLE BETWEEN SHARK AND SEA-COW 77

tom to pieces. Whilst I was still watching anxiously,
a large oily patch suddenly rose to the surface between
the shark and where my net was set. The seconds
passed slowly — ^an elongated brown head appeared — a
hissing gurgle — ^and into the air like steam a fine spray
was blown. The head submerged and a gigantic brown
body rose up.

“ Ye gods, a sea-cow 1 ” I yelled to my native boat-
man. Bring my rifle ! ” Running hard, he fetched
the '303 with half a dozen expanding bullets. Again
the head appeared, and simultaneously the dorsal fin
of the shark changed its course, and leisurely moved in
the same direction. It gathered speed. The mammal
once more emerged to blow and at that moment per-
ceived its inveterate enemy. Immediately giving up its
lazy wallowing, it became, as it were, electrically vitalised.
The water boiled and swirled as the unwieldy beast
rushed headlong through the depths from the attack.
One could follow by the oily slick and bubbles the terror-
stricken sea-cow (far larger than any land-cow) desper-
ately endeavouring to evade the torpedo-shaped colos-
sus now hard in pursuit. Look 1 the dorsal fin of the
shark cut the water at express speed. Straight for
my net pursued and pursuer tore — ^then the inevitable.
As the sea-cow struck the net a great bulge appeared
towards the centre. A second later, as the merciless
fish’s mighty bulk was also hurled against the obstruc-
tion, the entire line of corks which supported the top
part of the net on the surface disappeared. The buoys
at each end, to which were attached stones each weigh-
ing over a hundredweight, drew in towards one another,
and now I witnessed a truly amazing spectacle. On the
surface appeared an enormous wad of mesh with the
two great bodies entangled, struggling, rending, and
tearing in every direction. The sea in the immediate
vicinity seethed and billowed and was for a consider-
able distance churned into bloody foam. At times it
would seem that the bodies of the assailants in one
great tangled mass almost left the water. There was

78 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

a firightful ingurgitation and flying spume. The net
burst asunder, the manilla-hemp top rope being bitten
completely through by the shark’s great jaws, and on the
surface the corks appeared again in hopeless confusion.
Turning I found my faithful henchman standing behind
me. We looked at one another. His ebony counten-
ance was convulsed with rage, and certainly I felt much
the same. In his excitement his usual English entirely
deserted him, and he relapsed into the vernacular.

“ Backra, you should a get ’im, Sah 1 we^^hab fi get
im, we hab fi get 'im, Sah 1 ”

“ Damn the shark, and all his species I ” I replied.
“ There’s the confounded net ruined again ; it will take
quite a week -before it can possibly be used. We’ll bring
the shark-lines out here, Griffiths, and see if we can’t
land the devil that’s caused us all this trouble " — ^and
land him, or one like him, on this spot we ultimately did.

CHAPTER X

WE ARE AVENGED AND PROVE THE TALES OF MIGHTY
JACK ARE TRUE

We gathered together the net, or rather the remains of
it, and on bringing it ashore saw at once that its con-
dition was hopeless, so ripped away the whole of the
mesh, leaving only the top rope and corks. For the
last week or two several of the natives had been en-
gaged in making a new one of even stronger material,
and it was on the point of completion, all but the corks,
so now one had only to attach the old corks to the new
net.

On returning to Black River I spent the whole of the
next day rigging up shark-lines, and several of the
fishermen going out to their pots managed to get me a
dozen good-sized fish, consisting of jack, yellow-tail, and
rock-fish, weighing about s or 6 pounds each.

Before sunrise next morning Grifiiths paddled the dug-
out from our old mooring place at the mouth of the
river, beaching the boat on the sands opposite where
I was living, and between us we carried the whole of
our gear down. It was quite an imposing array, and con-
sisted of an empty so-gallon oil-drum, six round pieces
of wood 4 or 5 feet long and about 9 inches in diameter,
three coils of three-eighth-inch manilla rope, shark-
hooks, chains, bait, and a lump of iron weighing from
75 to 80 pounds. When the whole of this had been
stowed in the little craft there was scarcely room for us to
creep in.

Off we went with very little freeboard, and with much
care reached Parattee Point without capsizing, which
I had been momentarily expecting during our journey.

79

80 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

On reaching our destination we ran inshore and there
landed all the tackle, attaching the hooks and chains
to the lines.

(I must explain for the benefit of those who are not au
fait with shark fishing that 6 feet of chain is absolutely
necessary next to the hook, as a shark will easily sever
any rope I know with one single snap of its jaws.)

This having been done, we attached the mass of iron
to the 50-gallon oil-drum and proceeded to sea with it.
Arriving outside the reef we dropped the iron and drum
overboard. We then returned to shore, baited all
three shark-hooks with an entire fish, and proceeded
once more out to our buoy. These lines were about
75 yards in length, and 18 feet above each bait we
attached one of our wooden logs. The purpose of this is
that the bait may float instead of resting on the bottom.
Twenty-five yards beyond this another log was attached,
and then we securely fastened all three to the drum, with
one line running straight out from it, and the other two
to right and left. To each roll of wood suspending the
bait we tied a piece of thin line with a stone, dropping
this to the bottom, thus keeping the bait hanging in
one place and preventing the lot drifting together and
becoming entangled. Having finished this operation
we returned to the beach to await developments.

This day the sea in the vicinity seemed to be devoid
of all life — very different from what it had been on our
last visit ; but from experience I have many times
discovered that the absence of signs of life on the surface
does not necessarily mean that the fish are not there.
The hours passed and nothing happened, Griffiths
giving it as his opinion that the bait was too fresh, and
that shark prefer to feed on food that is more or less
in a state of decomposition. Strangely enough this
seems to be the opinion of most fishermen, but from my
actual experience of catching hundreds of sharks in
various parts of the world, I can positively state that
it is quite a fallacy. Sharks prefer fresh food — ^the
fr^her the better. I have had many ocular demon-

TALES OF MIGHTY JACK 8i

strations when using putrid bait, of these fish coming up,
nosing it, and deliberately turning away, refusing to
feed. I told Griffiths this, but I am quite certain he
was unconvinced. Be this as it may, nothing moved
the floats.

This method of fishing for sharks with a drum and
lines is one of the most deadly I know. When the
shark strikes the bait, down goes the first roll of wood
suspending it. This is followed by the second roll,
which is used for a double purpose, one being to buoy
the line on the surface, and the other to offer resistance
to the strike. Then the fuU force of the fish's rush is
borne by the 50-gallon oil-drum. The resistance of
this against submergence is very great, always pulling
against the fish’s struggles, and certain it is that a
fish once hooked cannot endure for long the tremendous
strain of the empty drum, which being moored to the
bottom by a heavy mass of iron, can certainly not be
moved far, even by the largest fish. Thus it is, merely
a question of time, no matter how big the creature may
be, before it becomes quite played out.

The day passed without the slightest sign of a strike,
so leaving the lines out, we returned, hoping for better
luck next day. However, when we arrived the follqw-
ing morning, there were still no signs of life, neither
had the baits been disturbed, the rolls of wood and
drum being in exactly the same position as we had
left them. Removing the stale fish from the hooks, I
impaled fresh bait, which I had been able tb procure,
and sat down to possess my soul in patience, for fishing
is indeed a game where this is a most necessary virtue.

It was during the middle of breakfast that I descried,
just above the surface of the water, the top of a shark’s
dorsal fin, accompanied by a strong ripple.

“ Look 1 look 1 Griffiths — ^away to the right. Here
it comes 1 ”

We watched expectantly ; the fish, by its uncertainty
of movement, had not seen the bait, but was nosing in
the direction of our lines. It must have travelled
6

82 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

about 50 yards farther, when suddenly it disappeared
altogether.

" Him gone, boss, I think it,” said Griffiths.

” Wait a bit ! — ^wait a bit ! he’s seen the bait, and
gone down for it,” I replied, and sure enough, with a
plop the right-hand float shot down, to be immediately
followed by the second one up the line. Then came a
tremendous tug on the drum, which disappeared alto-
gether, bobbing back almost immediately to the surface.
Once more it jerked under, and this time we could
actually see that the drum, its anchor, and entire gear,
were being dragged along by this mighty fish. All
reappeared suddenly — ^the two wooden logs, racing
along the top of the water, crossed the other lines, the
three becoming hopelessly entangled. This did not
really matter, but added buoyancy, the other logs
helping to play the fish.

What a fight the brute put up 1 Its strength was
really amazing. It is only when one sees a fight like
this that one realises how physically puny man is in
comparison to these voracious creatures. Built for
speed and strength, and shaped like a torpedo, the shark
has justly earned its title of ” tiger of the deep.”

It must have been quite an hour before the plunging,
bobbing oil-drum became less agitated, but it was fully
another hour before we proceeded in the dug-out to
commence the operation of getting the brute ashore—
no easy task, for it was impossible to detach the line it
was on from the drum, without removing all three. So
entwined were they that they had all virtually become
twisted in one. However, we managed to fix them to
the stem of the dug-out, and commenced an endeavour
to tow the inert mass to the beach, for the shark appeared
quite dead. This was much easier said than done : the
bulk had sunk to the bottom and could only be moved
by inches, \\ffien we arrived in a depth of water well
above our waists, we got out and commenced to haul
by brute strength, finding this much easier. Slowly but
surely we got the fish into such shallow water that the

TALES OF MIGHTY JACK 83

whole of its length was now exposed, its back being
above the surface, but beyond this we could not move
it. Becoming freed from the buoyancy of the water, it
was now a dead weight, and I knew it would require
at least seven or eight people to drag it up on the sand.

Not the slightest movement had this fish made since
we detached the lines from the drum, and now as it
lay there it appeared — ^and I believe wa^ — devoid of
life, the tremendous resistance of the empty drum having
completely played it out, and most probably drowned it ;
for, as is well known to fishermen, if the handling is
done in the right way, it is always possible to drown a
fish.

I was particularly anxious to obtain photographs, but
there was nothing to do but return down the coast to
my old friends, the little colony of fishermen, and enlist
their help. When we arrived there and explained our
predicament, these jolly sportsmen wanted no persuasion,
for the shark to them is a bUe noir, I believe that any
power of hatred of which they are capable is concen-
trated on these creatures. Virtually the whole lot
turned out in high spirits to haul their inveterate enemy
up on the beach, and this we ultimately accomplished.
From tip to tip it measured 12 feet 7 inches in length,
with a girth of 7 feet 6 inches, and weighed 920 pounds
— once more one of the shovel-nosed species. I opened
it up carefully, examining the interior for disease, etc.,
but found it perfectly clean. The stomach, or gut,
contained a large amount of fish in various stages of
digestion, which must have weighed at least 300 pounds.

I removed the vertebrae and jaws, which^ — ^like all my
others — I have carefully preserved, and I obtained
excellent photographs. The carcase, with help, was
then towed out to sea and sunk on the spot where we
had captured it.

I thought this might bait the ground up and attract
others, and determined to try again ; but bad weather
during the next day or two prevented,

For a change I returned to the fishing down the coast

84 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

in the old spot where I had got my sting-rays. I took
my new net with me, and here christened it. There is
no doubt that this locality is the home of these horrible
rays, for I had not been fishing with my heavy rod for
more than half an hour when I was fast into another
of these hideous creatures. The usual tug-of-war
followed. It was about the same size as my previous
ones, and once more I removed the tail with the poison
dagger attached. These tails, etc., will be distributed
among various museums and angling societies.

The first time we used the new net, we took an
extraordinary collection of sea-life — seven crawfish (two
of which weighed over 8 pounds each), three or four
very large conks, a turtle of nearly 50 pounds, and on
raising the net, we found that where it had rested on
the bottom it had become entangled with several pieces
of coral. They were of exquisite beauty, far finer than
any specimens I had been able to get, and these we
carefully preserved.

That night, about nine o’clock, I was surprised when
Griffiths arrived in a state of great excitement. It was
a most uniasual thing for him. Up before daybreak,
he went to sleep about sundown. Without warning he
fairly burst forth with the following information :

“ Him here, Boss, him here.”

” What's here ? ” I asked, thoroughly mystified.

“ Great cavalli jack,” he answered. ” I see them with
my eyes smashing mullet at river mouth.”

This was good news to me, for I had been longing to
catch a really record jack. I had heard much about
these fish and the tremendous fight they put up, but,
as previously recorded, had only caught them up to
about 45 pounds, and had yet to be convinced that they
weighed as much as 60 pounds.

“ Right I ” I said to him. ” To-morrow morning
before daybreak I’ll be down at the boat. Get some
fishermen to go out ^ith the nets, and catch all the live
snappere you c^n, about 8 to 12 inches in length.”

” So it shall. Boss, so it shall I ’’—Griffiths's English

TALES OF MIGHTY JACK 85

always becomes horribly mixed when excited — ^and off
he went. I immediately turned in, full of anticipation
for the morrow.

It must have been at least an hour before daybreak
when Griffiths wakened me. I had all kinds of awful
premonitions, chiefly that no bait had been obtained,
as by sheer cussedness almost invariably happens when
big fish come in, but this time he was the harbinger of
good news. I do not believe he had been to bed all
night, so determined was he to get the small live
snappers ; and he had brought the boat round on to the
beach facing the house. In a few minutes I was dressed
and down. .

He explained to me that he was most anxious that
we should have the boat moored in the chosen spot at
the river's mouth before daybreak. The big jack go in
schools, and one has to await their arrival, but it is
necessary to be right in the path or channel where they
travel. It is remarkable how they seem to have a
regular fixed feeding-time — early in the morning, and
from five o’clock in the evening until sundown.

Armed with rods and reels (the latter containing
400 yards of 24-thread line), wire leaders and hooks in
proportion, I made my way down to the boat (I did
not take my heavy rods and tackle, not anticipating
anything bigger at the outside than 60 pounds), and
paddled the half-naile down to the river’s mouth,
where we picked up the bait box containing the live
bait, attaching it to the stem of the dug-out, towing it
behind us. About 20 yards seaward from the shore
and in the centre of the channel we moored, and waited
for the first flush of dawn. No sign of a fish broke the
surface of the water. As the light became stronger a
few mullet appeared disporting themselves, and just
before the sun rose, with a tremendous burst of spray,
the largest jack I had ever seen smashed at one of the
mullet. Using only one rod, I cast out a lo-inch
snapper, and could feel by the movement on my line
how well it was working. Not five minutes had elapsed

88 BATTLES WITH GIANT. FISH

He was in magnificent condition, and measured 50 inches
in length, 32 inches in girth, and weighed 64 pounds.
The photographs show the somewhat elliptical shape
of the fish, and also the large bony head. I consider
that when grown to this size they are quite unfit for
food, though the natives apparently differ from me, as
there was much rejoicing among them when it was
cut up and distributed. Griffiths, who shares my
opinion of its edible qualities, remarked : '' Poor

creatures know no better, they must be pitied.” The
flesh is dark red, and much more like the colour of
venison than fish.

GAFFING ei-LB. JACK (p. 88).

CHAPTER XI

BATTLE WITH A RECORD JACK — ^THE TRAGEDY IN
KINGSTON HARBOUR

The weather for some days following this turned quite
rough, making fishing at the mouth of the river out of
the question, which was a great nuisance, so we took
the opportunity to make a number of excursions inland.
The more I see of Jamaica, the more I feel that her
names of “ Jewel of the Caribbean ” and “ Queen of
the Antilles ” are well deserved. Though Cuba, Hayti,
Porto Rico, and other places have their interesting
features, I do not think that for tropical beauty and
exquisite colouring they can in any way compare with
Jamaica.

During these windy days I visited quite a number of
places in the vicinity, all of them having their especial
scenic characteristics.

On the 1 2th February I was once more able to go
after the jack, and got one fish the size of which I had
hitherto looked upon as quite abnormal.

The next day the inshore breeze again blew strongly ;

I went out in the boat, but had to return almost im-
mediately. As it was, we were very nearly swamped ;
but the following day the conditions were perfect, and
fortunately an ample supply of live bait had been
accumulated.

Some time previously I had ordered a large wire cage
to be constructed, about 8 or 9 feet square, and keeping
this in the sea, I was able to save my bait alive for days.
Taking a dozen small red snappers with us, and leaving
early, we started in earnest after the jack. I fished
in the morning up to 9 o'clock without getting a

89

90 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

single touch, and resumed again round 4.30 the same
afternoon. With my first cast I struck a good fish,
but in the middle of his rush he broke clear, the line
fouling one of the logwood snags. These obstructions
were causing me a great deal of trouble. I found the
live bait working along the bottom frequently entangled
my line. This always entailed pulling up the mooring
stone, and manoeuvring above the obstruction until
one was able to clear the line, so on this occasion, after
having been fouled by the first fish, I attached a cork

4 feet above the live bait, to prevent it working down to
the bottom. A quarter of an hour after losing this
fish, the cork went down with a plop, and off went the
line at a tremendous rate. The big jack always strike
the live bait on the run, and immediately on feeling the
prick of the hook, their rush becomes intensified. On
this occasion I let the fish run about 20 yards, drove the
hook hard home, and by the tremendous wrench on the
rod I knew I was fast into a big fish.

The strength and fighting power of this jack was
quite extraordinary. Although I hit into it about

5 o’clock, it was not until 6.15 that it was finally brought
to gaff, when I discovered all my previous jack records
broken. It was a magnificent specimen, gleaming silver,
and with lovely pale yellow fins and tail. Its length
was ss inches, girth 33 inches, and it turned the scale
at 8o§ pounds. This was the largest jack that apparently
had ever been caught or seen by the fishermen down
here ; but, in spite of this fact, I still cherished the
belief that they ran up to a much greater weight.
After my encounters with the huge tarpon, red snapper,
etc., it gave one seriously to think ; and experience
convinces me that in virtually all species of fish the
size to which they ultimately grow is quite unknown
to fishermen and scientists. Not only does this apply
to tropical waters, but to the denizens of the seas round
the shores of Great Britain, America, etc. For example,
when fishing at Looe, off the coast of Cornwall, some
years ago, 1 caught a wrasse of 12 % pounds, a far larger

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR 91

specimen than any up to then recorded, proving con-
clusively that there is much work to be done by the
angling fraternity in home waters. And every year
fresh records are made with rod and line along the sea-
board of the United States of America.

For two or three days following I worked the sea
off our little camping-ground at Five Tree Cove,
laying the net there, which yielded some fine turtles
and crawfish. In this home of the hideous and
deadly whip-ray I got another of these reptilian
brutes, weighing just over 250 pounds. On all these
excursions the camera was busy and the photographs
were accumulating and making a most interesting
collection.

Returning home on the evening of the day I caught
the whip-ray we had a most unpleasant experience.
One of the usual terrific thunderstorms which occur on
the hills nearly every afternoon had on this day been
particularly severe. As we left in the dug-out on our
return journey to Black River, a heavy breeze, without
the slightest warning, commenced to blow inshore.
Within a very few minutes a nasty sea got up, and the
wind increasing in strength, one wave, which seemed to
be considerably larger than the ordinary, broke clean
over the little boat, which immediately sank beneath
us. I managed to hold my rod with one hand and the
side of the water-logged dug-out with the other, whUe
Griffiths held on to what he could.

By rocking the boat, we freed it from a certain amount
of water, and then scrambling back, baled the rest out.
Unfortunately, on submerging it turned over, which
caused me to lose two excellent knives and some other
gear. Fortunately, I saved my rod, and Griffiths saved
my *303 Army Service rifle, which I now nearly always
carried with me.

These sudden heavy winds must be recognised as
one of the usual troubles which are bound to attend
fishing and deep-sea work in tropical seas,

I now turned my attention again to the jack, and on

92 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

the succeeding days caught several— nothing exciting —
38, 40, and 47 pounds.

In spite of this being the dry season, we were treated
to another terrific storm, with a rain which only this
part of the world can produce. It was as if the whole
of the heavens had opened, and, to judge by the leaden
masses of cloud, seemed determined to empty them-
selves as rapidly as possible. Wherever a depression
occurred in the ground or street, it immediately became
a roaring torrent. So gredt was the amount of water
which fell on this occasion that the sea for half a mile
out changed from its accustomed blue to a muddy
colour, owing to the tremendous volume pouring into
it from the land.

Of course the Black River came down in flood, but
fortunately, as this torrential rain lasted only two or
three hours, the heavy rush was of short duration. I
think this storm must have caused the fish to congregate
at the mouth of the river, for certain it is that a day or
two afterwards the schools of great jack again made
their appearance. This was the signal to be up and
doing, and the morning after their arrival we were out
^arly in eager anticipation ; yet in spite of the fact
that time and again I cast out the most tempting live
bait, I was not rewarded by a single strike, though
enormous jack were there, every few minutes smashing
the surface of the water in all directions after mullet.
From before 6 o’clock I fished persistently until nearly
9 o’clock, and my patience was amply rewarded — there
came a tremendous smashing and bursting of water
almost over the spot where my live bait was working.

I was well warned and ready. A terrific wrench on
the line 1 I struck simultaneously, thumbing my leather
down hard at the same moment. The top of the rod
bent over, creaking under the strain, and the mightiest
jack I had ever struck went off at a speed that I dare
not venture to estimate.

^ When fishing for jack I had consistently used my
light rod and 24-thread line, but it seemed impossible,

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR 93

with the awful driving force of this fish, that it could
be stopped before the 400 yards on my reel became
exhausted.

Griffiths, with great celerity, had pulled up the mooring
stone. Had this not been accomplished, there is no
question but that good-bye would have been said to
fish, line, and heaven knows what else — including one's
temper I As it was, by paddling hard in the wake of
the fish, I was enabled to check its mad dash. I had
up till now had many fights, but pound for pound for
sheer savagery this exceeded anything I had yet hooked,
not exicepting sharks. I am convinced that every device
known in fighting tactics amongst the denizens of the
deep was tried by my battling adversary. Plunging
circling, rush after rush — I was on tenterhooks every
second. Several times he doubled, dashing straight in
and past our boat, swimming completely round, and
once or twice diving underneath with immense rapidity
of motion. For fully an hour there seemed not the
slightest abatement of this game creature's powers of
vitality, and an hour and a quarter must have elapsed
from my first striking it before I had any hope that the
result of the battle would lie with me.

Using the utmost care, and ever wary — for be it
known that one can never be sure what these fish will
do — I conjured up every art I knew to circumvent a
break occurring towards the end of the fight and when
victory seemed certain.

Over an hour and three-quarters elapsed before,
fought to the point of exhaustion, I brought him along-
side the dug-out.

“ Griffiths, for God's sake don't miss with the gaff —
this is the jack of a lifetime 1 ” I panted, for by now I
was well on the road to being played out myself ; but
Griffiths made no miss, at the first strike the gaff going
well home, and there by the side of the boat, still
defiantly slapping with his tail, was a jack of dimensions
I had never believed I should set eyes on. I laid the
rod in the bottom of the boat and, exercising much

94 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

care, between us we got the fish over the side, and
paddled back to the shore, where a large number of
natives, attracted by the fight, had gathered as usual
to see what we were bringing in. The tape gave a
length of 59 inches, with a girth of 37 inches. .

“ I bet you he tips the scale at 100 pounds,” I said.

“ Sure, Boss, him must,” replied this enthusiastic
sportsman.

Alas I we were both wrong. Although this giant
among jack did not go over 100 pounds, yet I believe
it proved by quite a long way to be a record, weighing
98^ pounds. It was as much as both of us could do
to hold it up to be photographed. How many times
have I been grateful for the perfect light in this part
of the world which enabled me to obtain photographic
records of big fish I

I preserved the skeleton head, and I am glad I did so,
for never again did I hook one approaching this size.
Black River was certainly providing me with a variety
of sport on rod and line that I had not discovered any-
where else. Although I had fished the much-vaunted
Florida waters and many other places, it had remained
for Jamaica, so far as I am concerned, to yield many
giant fish I had really not believed existed.

Here I am coming nearly to the end of the fishing
at Black River, for the inshore breezes commenced
to grow steadily stronger day by day. Several times
I went up the river to the Broad Water with no result,
though the scenery here was a source of never-ending
enjoyment to me. My last evening I shall always
remember. A logwood barge came down from Lacovia,
with nine or ten natives rowing, all chanting a curious
melody, in which they harmonised perfectly, adding
to the picturesqueness of this Elysian spot. The
orchestration of the mosquitoes and insect life com-
menced. A long dark ripple slowly crossed the river,
and I discerned 'dimly the almost submerged head of
an alligator which had left its lair on a nocturnal prowl
in its stealthy search for food. The shrieks of night-

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR 95

birds and the hoarse guttural croaking of bull-frogs
broke my reverie, and as I paddled back it was borne
upon me that nature is never asleep. By day and night
relentlessly the butchery continues — with all life the
greater living on the lesser, the victory being to the
strong.

During the first fortnight of March I was compelled
to go slow, the fights with these giant fish, coupled with
the tropical heat, having strained my heart pretty
badly. This entailed a visit to Kangston, where the
doctors warned me seriously that I must go easy, so
I was perforce compelled to rest, and occupied myself
in my research work among the reefs.

On the 14th I made up my mind to leave Black
River and sail on the following Monday for Port Limon
en route for Panama. We commenced the packing
of all our specimens, when, in the middle of it, I re-
ceived a telegram from Kingston informing me that a
tragedy had taken place there. The message was very
brief, simply stating that a girl, whilst standing in the
water, had had her leg bitten off by a shark.

On the 1 5th another telegram arrived stating the girl
had died in hospital. This was followed by many more
telegrams asking me to come up to Kingston immediately
and endeavour to rid the harbour of this menace to
bathers.

We hastened our packing, and, taking the whole of
our baggage, on the 17th bade good-bye to Black
River with feelings of much regret.

The little town gave us an excellent send-off, and after
catching the train at Maggoty station we were very
much surprised to find that wherever we stopped en
route many people were assembled to wish me the best
of luck in my attempt to catch this lurking and deadly
peril.

My trusty henchman, GriflBithS) accompanied me, and
on the arrival of the train at May Pen I obtained the
morning paper, to find it full of accounts of the tragedy,
together with the announcement that I was coming

96 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

up from Black River specially for the purpose of trying
to catch the shark.

It was with feelings of considerable embarrassment
that I found, when the train pulled into Kingston, an
enormous crowd awaiting my arrival outside the station.
At first it seemed as if I would not be able to get through.
My old school-friend. Lieutenant J. H. Owen, D.S.C.,
R.N.R., the harbourmaster, and one of the best sports-
men it has ever been my good fortune to know, together
with Mr. Archibald Mclnnes, the Government and
Lloyd’s Surveyor, with the help of one or two of the
police, managed to steer me through the throng into
a waiting motor-car.

On paying a visit to the locality where the tragedy
took place, I found the front seething with people,
though what they expected to see was beyond
me.

I was then given the first authentic details of what had
actually happened.

Miss Adelin Lopez, who was not quite 1 5 years of age,
together with a little boy, Tom Bray, were bathing in
Kingston Harbour between the Myrtle Bank Hotel and
the Yacht Club, in only a few feet of water — ^in fact
Miss Lopez was actually standing in the sea — when
suddenly, to their amazement, Mr. Lopez and several
people who were close on shore heard a piercing cry of
“ Father, father ! ” coming from the direction of the
water. Realising that his daughter was in distress, he
rushed in, and on lifting her out, was confronted with
the dreadful sight that her right leg had been completely
severed close to the body. Three doctors arrived on
the scene in a very short space of time, but in spite of
their medical skill all efforts to save her were ima vailing
and the poor girl died within twenty-four hours. The
little boy who was with her was fortunately not attacked,
though naturally terribly frightened.

I have always expounded the theory that a person
standing or floating in the water is in far greater danger
of being bitten than when swimming. Later on I will

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR 97

give instances of how big sharks will come right in on
a beach after a motionless object.

Colonel Eden Clarke, Inspector-General of the Police,
and Lieutenant Harry Owen now rendered most valuable
service in the attempt to capture this terrible creature.
The constabulary on land cleared the mob from the
water-front, and on sea the water police drove off the
natives that were assembled in boats, thus leaving an
open space ; and without delay, with the help of Lieu-
tenant Owen and my trusty Griffiths, I ran out five
empty 50-gallon oil-drums moored to the bottom with
lines attached, on the same principle as I related when
catching the big shark off Parattee Point.

These were laid on Saturday afternoon, the i8th
March, and I baited two with dead dogs, and four
with fresh fish called yellow-tail, weighing about 5 or
6 pounds.

Early on Sunday morning messengers came rushing
up to the house where I was staying with Lieutenant
Owen to say that one of the buoys was violently agitated
and that a great fish was hooked. We ran down as
fast as we could towards the beach, but long before we
reached it we knew by the roar rising that a vast crowd
had assembled. Thousands of natives were pouring in
from every direction, and it became a matter of virtually
fighting through a solid phalanx of people to get there.
A few police were doing their utmost to control the
people but were overwhelmed by numbers. We managed
to reach the water’s edge at last, and ultimately, with
the aid of a boat, the buoy, which had been moored
close to the spot where Miss Lopez had been attacked,
was dragged ashore, and at the end of the line, played
out, appeared one of the ugliest brutes of the shark
species I have ever seen. It was dragged up, and it
will give some idea of the immense jaw-power of
these creatures when I state that as the big hook
was being cleared from the mouth, its jaws closed
in a convulsive snap, and subsequently, on its being
completely withdrawn, I found that the barb had
7

98 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

been bitten into the steel almost as if it had been
welded.

On this big fish being brought to land, the police present
were entirely swept aside by the multitude, which now
numbered several thousands. Pressing forward, it
almost looked as if we would be forced completely
into the harbour. There was a small wooden pier
jutting out alongside. This also became rapidly packed
with natives. Filled to its utmost capacity, it began
to show signs of giving way, the planking in several
cases cracking and breaking, and as the crowd still
surged on to it many were pushed into the water,
dropping off the edge like flies. For a time it looked
very much as if another tragedy might occur, when for-
tunately the police were reinforced by a detachment
of water police and further sections of the Jamaica
constabulary.

Lady Richmond Brown and Mrs. Owen (wife of the
harbourmaster), who up to now had been utterly
unable to pass through the crush, by dint of hard work
on the part of the police eventually had a path cleared
for them, so that they might take photographs of the
big fish now lying motionless, but as Lady Brown
commenced to do this, in spite of the numbers of police
employed the crowd again sxurged forward and we were
all actually driven down to the water’s edge. Had the
police not used their batons trouble would certainly
have occurred.

To attempt to move the shark through the solid wall
on land was out of the question. The Government
boat therefore came in and the carcase was hoisted
on board of it, and we embarked from the end of the
little jetty, travelling down the harbour with our
gruesome occupant to the Water Police Station. Here
it was hoisted on a railway truck by a crane and moved
into the shed. We were not to be left undisturbed
however, for the crowd rushed from the place where
the fish had been landed, . streaming down Harbour
Street and' completely surrounding the shed where we

TRAGEDY IN KINGSTON HARBOUR 99

were assembled to perform the autopsy. Here again
the police rendered yeomen service and probably pre-
vented the sides from being driven in.

The stomach of the fish was protruding completely
from the mouth, and in its struggles — as very often
occurs with this species — ^it had completely emptied
its interior.

The autopsy disclosed several singular features which
were most interesting. There were three young about
a foot in length, quite alive when they were removed,
and a considerable number of infertile ova. On re-
moving the backbone, surrounding it for a distance of
a foot and a half was a large calcined growth — I think
one might safely call it osteoma. This had produced a
rigidity of this section, with attendant paralysis, and
by destruction of the nerve centres (I merely venture this
as a theory) had possibly produced a species of insanity.
This fish was quite abnormal : although only 1 1 feet
in length, its girth was 8 feet 6 inches, and it weighed
approximately 700 pounds. The logical deduction
following the proved condition of this creature would be
that it would no longer possess the activity necessary
to enable it to capture its normal food — ^i.e. various
fish, and therefore it would probably become a garbage
feeder, consuming almost anything that would not entail
undue exertion in capture. Apart from the diseased
vertebrae, its bulk alone would have precluded any
swift motion.

I carefully preserved the backbone, and it has been
on view, together with other specimens, at Messrs.
Selfridge’s, as well as many other places.

When the examination was over, I was again very
embarrassed by the exuberant good-will of the people
when I left the shed, and I shall always look back on
the tribute paid to me by the Gleaner newspaper as one
of the most pleasant incidents in my life.

At the time I believed this fish to have been -the one
that attacked and killed Miss Lopez, but Mr. Gerald
Abrahams, who lived in the immediate vicinity of the

loo BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

tragedy, after the capture still cherished the belief
that other monsters lurked in the vicinity, and with
commendable perseverance continued to bait and put
out a shark line, being richly rewarded about a week
later by the capture of a large tiger-shark. This, one
of the most ferocious inhabitants of the sea, one would
certainly not expect to find so far away from the main
ocean as where it was caught — ^high up in Kingston
Harbour,

I do not know whether Mr, Abrahams’ efforts have
been properly appreciated by the people of Kingston,
but I should like here to pay him a personal tribute for
ridding the waters there of a fish which I venture to
state was an actual menace to bathers, and would
sooner or later have taken toll of human life, as to my
certain knowledge one of these fish, 12 feet 6 inches in
length, attacked a man (also standing in the water) off
Morro Island, Pacific, about six months later.

In view of the capture of this fish by Mr. Abrahams,
I must certainly modify my idea with regard to the
fish caught by myself. I believe the length of his
shark was over 13 feet, and I would like to remind
bathers in Kingston Harbour that there still remain
others.

■Drionn T TT\/rr\-NJ r‘r\CTA

CHAPTER XII

WE ARRIVE IN PANAMA — FISHING AT GATUN AND THE
CHAGRES RIVER

As it was now impossible to leave for Panama on the
Monday as I had intended, we booked our passage for
the following week and spent a very pleasant time
during the intervening period as the guests of Lieutenant
Owen and his wife, and enjoyed several wonderful
picnics, one of them being to Lime Cay, a tiny little
sand and coral island just off Port Royal, at the entrance
to Kingston Harbour, This is the home of innumerable
sea-eggs ; it therefore behoves one to be cautious when
bathing not to tread on these pestilential creatures, as
the needle-like spikes with which they are covered will
assuredly break off on piercing the flesh, causing intense
pain and inflammation, and may possibly even entail
amputation of the foot.

We, said good-bye to Jamaica on the 28th March, and
to the many friends we had made there.

I would here like to express my gratitude to Mr.
Frank Cundall, F.S.A., the Secretary and Librarian of
the Institute of Jamaica, for the information and help
he was always so willing to give me, including data
from the museum of which he was curator — advice
which I found invaluable during my fishing and research
work round the island.

Our boat, by a coincidence, was the Bayano, on which
we had travelled out from England.

As I stood and looked at the lovely harbour of King-
ston, with its fringed background of palms disappearing,
and beyond the bold escarpments of the blue mountains
becoming fainter, I then and there registered a vow to

102 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

return, if possible, for although I had been to Jamaica
several times previously, its charm ever appeals to me.
What a lovely island ! It should be one of the tourist
centres of the world ; and yet I wonder if it is really
appreciated, and cannot help comparing its peaceful
beauty with the horrible, blatant glare and pande-
monium of so many so-called pleasure-resorts much
visited by swarms of the nouveaux riches.

The run across the Caribbean to Port Limon is not
a very lengthy business. On our way we passed
Roncador Cay. It is most extraordinary how these
little coral reefs and islands suddenly appear in the
midst of the ocean. These islands, being only a few
feet above the surface of the sea, are quite uninhabitable,
but are extensively used in the turtle season by the
fishermen from Nicaragua and Costa Rica. Large
numbers of the hawk’s-bill turtle are captured here
whilst passing through the channels in the reef, this
species providing the very valuable tortoiseshell used
in making toilet sets, combs, and other things.

Roncador, being completely isolated from any other
land, and almost in the centre of the shipping route
between Costa Rica, Jamaica, etc., is a bite noir to
mariners. I believe the United States Government
placed a light on this island some time ago, the iron
skeleton of which remains, but as the lamp was stolen
over and over again, the Americans became disgusted
and the friendly gleam can no longer be seen at night
to warn the mariner.

^ On the morning of the 30th March we entered the
little port of Limon, Costa Rica. It is a quaint little
Spanish town, with a really delightfully laid-out plaza,
stately palms of various descriptions growing in profu-
sion. The traveller will at once notice the large number
of vultures which hop about the streets everjrwhere.
These repulsive-looking birds devour all the carrion
they can discover, and are in effect feathered scavengers,
thus unquestionably doing much good.

There are one or two .beautiful little islands at the

FISHING AT GATUN AND CHAGRES RIVER 103

entrance to Limon Harbour and lovers of picturesque
scenery should certainly visit them. The long rollers
breaking on the rocks, shooting showers of spray into
the air, make quite a beautiful picture against the
tropical verdure and foliage of the coco-nut palms.

From limon to San Jos^ a railroad passes through
valley and mountain scenery, the sight of which will
repay a journey. This can be made in luxurious com-
fort, a rear observation-car being provided on the
train. There is also the interest of the capital, which
boasts an opera-house probably ranking with the finest
in the world.

Much of Costa Rica is still awaiting an intrepid
explorer. Several tribes of Indians inhabit the interior
— ^among others the Talamancas, who still retain much
of their primitiveness, obtaining fish by shooting them
with bows and arrows. The climate in many parts is
excellent, people from Panama and Colombia visiting
San Jos^ to recuperate in its cool air, situated as it is
at a considerable elevation above sea-level.

The fishing off Port Limon is considerably hampered
by the heavy swell which at nearly all times of the
year rolls in, but a certain amount of sport may be
obtained by fishing from the United Fruit Company's
wooden jetty, red snapper and yellow-tail being chiefly
caught, while quite large sharks can also be captured ;
though I should not especially recommend this section
of the Caribbean from an angling point of view. Any
research work is also greatly interfered with by the
heavy seas.

After spending a short period in the locality, we left
for Panama early in April.

Whenever I visit this country, and enter the mighty
harbour, I am filled with almost a feeling of awe to
think that man could have accomplished anything so
stupendous as that of which we here have ocular demon-
stration. As one goes through the channel entrance
between the seemingly endless concrete blocks that
comprise the outer wall of the harbour, to the left the

104 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

first thing that meets the eye is the long white building
of the Washington Hotel. Ships of all nations are here
encountered, for indeed it is the great waterway of the
world,

Only a short period elapses from the time one enters
the harbour till the ship is docked, and it has always
been my experience that the United States Customs
officials show one most courteous treatment. On this
occasion we really had an immense amount of luggage
with us, but we passed through very quickly. Our
small packages were on a magnificent 6-cylinder Buick
car within twenty minutes of docking, and we were
soon in our rooms at the Washington Hotel, the heavy
trunks and other things, having been collected by the
management, following us in a very short time.

The Washington Hotel is certainly a credit to any
country, with its terraced walk facing the Caribbean,
and fine open-air, salt-water swimming-pool. The rooms
are excellent, and a ball is given every Saturday in
the ball-room by the Cotillon Club, to which all guests
in the hotel are invited. There is only one drawback
to living here, and that is the confounded expense —
though I am afraid this applies to most hotels wherever
one visits. The moderate purse is seriously handi-
capped by the heavy increase which has taken place
since the war in all travel charges.

In Colon I was glad to meet many of my old friends
once more, among them Bill Markham, who is justly
credited with being one of the best fishermen and sports-
men in that part of the world.

The day following our arrival, at the invitation of
the British Consul, Mr. Ewing, and his wife, together
with the late Sir Douglas and Lady Hall, who had
travelled on the same boat with us, we made a trip
down the Chagres River, which I can commend to all
visitors to Panama, not only for beauty of scenery, but
for many other points of interest, chief among them
Wng the large quantities of parrots, which, assembling
in the trees in the afternoon, seem to have their own

FISHING AT GATUN AND CHAGRES RIVER 105

jazz-band. It causes much amusement to hear these
curious birds creating an almost s3mcopated melody.

Here in the Chagres, and especially the mouth towards
Fort Lorenzo, is the home of mighty fish. It was
fishing in this stretch of water that the Prince of Wales,
on his visit to Panama, got his first big tarpon ; while
many other notabilities, including General Pershing, in
spite of their deeds of valour elsewhere, have had the
battle of their lives in this district. General Pershing,
in fact, after landing his tarpon, dishevelled, with the
perspiration pouring down him, and aching in every
limb, declared that this was indeed the day of his life.

I wonder if the people in Great Britain really appre-
ciate how the Prince of Wales is beloved in other
countries ? In this I do not speak of the British Empire,
where, as all know, his popularity is tremendous, but
in countries like the United States and Panama. To
me, as an Englishman, it is a source of gratification to
hear his Royal Highness always referred to as a “ damned
good sportsman,” which I really think is the greatest
tribute that can be paid to anyone in the world, for to
Britishers the term “ sportsman ” has always been the
finest word in the English language. This one expres-
sion embraces every characteristic necessary to constitute
a real man, and it is as such that his Royal Highness
is regarded abroad. Hence whenever his name is men-
tioned it is always coupled with expressions of affection
and good-will.

A few miles from Colon some excellent sport is reached
with the greatest ease. I would unhesitatingly re-
commend all sportsmen visiting Panama to try this
water, and I am sure that my dear friend Dr. Tom
Leary, the head of the Government Hospital at Colon,
would always be glad to give all information and help
possible. He is President of the Panama Tarpon Club,
which numbers among its splendid body of men such
giaiits of sport as my friends Bill Markham and Csrril

io6 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Femie. The latter has recently taken up one of the
great thrills of life — ^big-game fishing.

At the foot of the Gatun Spillway is the little Fishing
Qub-house right on the water. During the dry season,
clear as crystal the waters flow over the apron, and in a
miniature fall or cataract race into the pool below ;
and by wading out in the stream where it flows over
the concrete bed splendid sport is obtainable. Many
times have I fished it with never a blank day, and on
my last visit (in March 1923) I saw one rod account in
a morning for four tarpon from 18 to 42 pounds in
weight, and over thirty snook. Jack, red snapper, and
a species of bass can also be captured here.

The records of fish weights which are kept in the
club books are most interesting, and register among
others a red snapper of 70 pounds, a jack of over 40
pounds, tarpon running near 100 pounds, besides large
snook, bass, etc. It is indeed a delightful fishing spot,
the natural beauty of the surroundings lending charm.

This pool also is the home of large alligators. Many
times have I watched the big shapes all day long slowly
crossing and recrossing the pool, and creeping up on the
rocky bank only 30 or 40 yards away from where the
fishermen were casting their lines.

The tackle universally used by members of the club
is a very light rod and 200 yards of 9- to 1 8-thread line.
There are three methods of fishing. The rods used
are whippy enough to cast a fly, and it is an extraordinary
fact that all the denizens here will take this lure, from
tarpon and red snapper to snook. Live baiting (the
small fish can generally be procured at the club-house)
is also a method much in favour ; and the third is quite
interesting.

A visit to the Gatun Club-house would not be complete
without partaking of a feed of the snook which you must
first capture yourself, and if any connoisseur with jaded
palate does not find this surpass anything he has ever
tasted in the first-class hotels of the world, I shall be
very much mistaken. It is indeed an epicurean feast.

FISHING AT GATUN AND CHAGRES RIVER 107

After having caught the fish, you clean and gut it in
the running water of the Spillway, and as the scales
and refuse drift downstream, using a portion of them as
bait, you allow your bait to follow. In this way some
of the largest fish are caught. On the very light tackle
used, any tarpon or red snapper hit into will tax your
piscatorial skill to the utmost. I have here witnessed
intensely interesting fights with fish lasting over an
hour.

Be careful not to slip in the running waters of the
Spillway, as several people have lost their lives in this
fashion, and there is a considerable amount of danger,
which you are liable to forget in the excitement of
the battle. It is imperative that you should wear
boots with iron spikes.

i must relate a curious fishing incident I witnessed
here some time ago. Fishing with my old friend General
Sadlier- Jackson, D.S.O., and Bill Markham, the former
towards dusk struck a topping fish, which put up a
terrific fight. The General had all his work cut out
to handle his battling opponent, what with preventing
himself from slipping from the apron into the deep
water, and guarding against a break in the fine tackle he
was using. Rushing and circling round the pool, this
virile creature fought. The sun had descended and
the swift darkness of the tropics was closing and still the
fight went on.

“ Aha ! ” the General cried, “ he’s coming in — I’ll
land him yet before it’s too dark to see 1 ”

I’ll swear that even when leading the British Forces
at Murmansk he was not more excited.

He had not, however, reckoned on the cunning of
this wily inhabitant, for quite unexpectedly, when the
fish was almost played out, its struggles ceased.

“ Snagged, by Grt)d ! — snagged 1 ”

And about 50 yards from where he stood, the line
was fast in some obstruction. This had occurred
towards the right bank, downstream from where he
had been fishing. Running along the side in the fast-

io 8 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

gathering darkness, we could see a big white form slowly-
moving beneath the water close to a big boulder about
10 yards out.

Without hesitating, one of the other sportsmen present
divested himself of his scanty clothing, and, in spite of the
alligators, dived in and freed the line, and within a
few minutes the General had won what I really think he
considered his greatest battle, and brought to gaff a jack
of about 35 pounds — ^no mean feat with a fly rod and
1 2-thread line.

CHAPTER XIII

FISHING AROUND COLON — LEAVE FOR UNKNOWN WATERS

A SHORT distance from Colon, and reached by boat, is a
large expanse of water known locally as the Lagoon
de Tarpon. In this deep circular stretch can still be
seen the piles and route of the old railway, built by the
French, when originally they were endeavouring to
construct the canal and railway. This again is the
home of a very large tarpon and red snapper. On
almost any evening it is possible to see innumerable dorsal
fins and bodies of Tarpon atlanticus, but it is another
story to catch them. I have not fished this water
myself with a dead bait, but I believe some really
record-making fish for this part of the world could be,
obtained here, bottom fishing with a dead mullet 6 to lo
inches in length. Any of the local fishermen could,
no doubt, easily procure this bait, and the result should
be most interesting.

I also have an idea that the Chagres River towards
the mouth at Fort Lorenzo should yield mighty fish
if this same method of tempting them was used. Mr.
Cyril Fernie has now equipped himself with big-game
tackle and I am expecting to hear of great results.

Colon makes a really fine big-game fishing-centre. If
one is lucky enough to get a lull in the North-east Trade
winds (which make fishing outside the harbour walls
almost impossible most times of the year), one can
obtain wonderful sport with Spanish mackerel, the
fish running up to lo, 12, and even 16 pounds apiece.
Inside the harbour itself most excellent sport is to be had,
and here the fishing is much easier, owing to the shelter
given by the outer concrete barrier.

no BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

I feel I must relate an amusing experience that
occurred during the war. Bill Markham, fishing with a
friend from a small boat close to the Main Steamship
Channel, struck a sea-monster of some description.
Not knowing what to expect, he was using fairly heavy
tackle. Down the channel towards the entrance of
the harbour the big fish straightway made. _ Being
war-time, across this entrance as an obstruction for
German submarines a Government ship had been
moored, armed guards being on board with definite
instructions that no craft, large or small, should enter
or leave the harbour without a special permit. The
orders in regard to this were stringent, with the
resultant penalty of being immediately fired on. You
may i Tnaginp Bill Markham’s consternation when
straight towards this moored boat the big fish made, the
little craft proceeding hard in its wake.

“ What shall I do ? ” yelled Markham. " It’s head-
ing straight for the boat 1 ”

“ Hang on 1 ” quoth his friend ; ” I’ll steer it under-
neath the mooring cable.”

“ If we defy the rules and regulations and pass that
boat,” said Markham, ” there’ll be the devil to
pay.”

” To hell with regulations 1 ” cried his now thoroughly
excited friend. However, the “ best laid plans of mice
and men” went badly “ agley,” for at the exact
moment in which they were attempting to pass under-
neath the mooring cable, something happened to the
steering, and crash into the side of the Government
boat they bumped. Immediately there was pande-
monium on board — soldiers rushing about on deck,
believing that the long-expected submarine had appeared
and that they had been struck.

When they looked over the side, saw these two
ardent fishermen in their boat, and realised what had
caused the sudden panic, I believe the language, from
the commanding officer downwards, was simply awful,
and it was only the popularity of Bill Markham and

I LEAVE FOR UNKNOWN WATERS in

his friends that saved them from being shot at dawn
or suffering one of the other terrible penalties.

The fish had broken clear, and the episode ended by our
two sportsmen climbing on board, where, I am given
to understand, the dry laws of the United States were
outraged ; but I do not wish to imply that Bill Markham
was guilty of this, for he has only one vice that I know
of — I suspect him of prohibitionist tendencies !

Subsequently talking oven this incident of striking
the big fish, and weighing the pros and cons, the
consensus of opinion resolved itself into the belief
that it must have been a very large jew-fish, several
having been previously caught in the harbour.

Quite recently, fishing from the side of one of the
docked liners, the ship’s cook struck one of these big
fish. He managed to get it to the surface, but the
difficulty was to haul it on board. This, however, was
solved by several men getting into a small boat, rowing
to the side of the vessel, and managing to raise it from
the water. It weighed i68 pounds.

I caught one once with a stout hand-line, out on the
Pedro Bank, in the Caribbean, that turned the scale
at 350 pounds, and I have seen them off the end of
the pier at Bowden, Jamaica, weighing considerably
more than that. These fish can best be described as a
dark and heavily built species of the snapper family,,
having an enormous mouth and head.

I spent a week or two fishing in the vicinity of Colon,
catching various fish, but nothing really worth recording.
It was about this time that I was introduced to Major
Fitzwilliam. During several conversations he told me
that he had spent some time at a place called Mandinga.
I must confess that I had not the remotest idea where
this was, but subsequently learnt that it was the*name of
a small bay situated inside a reef in Panamanian terri-
tory occupied by a tribe of Indians known as the San
Bias. He seemed to know this district very well, also
the coast for a distance of about a hundred miles between
Colon and Mandinga, and actually owned quite a large

1 12 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

portion of land at Viento Frio — ^i.e. “ Cold Wind ” —
which was somewhere between Colon and San Bias,

I naturally enquired about the fishing, but he seemed
uncertain about this, not being a fisherman j however,
he was enthusiastic about the beauty of the country
and the extraordinary inhabitants down there,

“ You simply must go and see,” he said, “ Only
the outskirts have as yet been visited by a white man,
and there are many tiny island villages of which the
world has not the slightest knowledge. Who knows
what you may encounter fishing in waters that have
hitherto certainly never had a line of any sort dropped
into them — why, good Lord, man 1 can you realise
that the San Bias Indians are so primitive they use
fish spears, and shoot fish with bows and arrows ? ”

His vivid description fired my imagination to an
extraordinary degree, and the upshot of these conver-
sations led to a remarkable sequence of events which
must be almost without parallel.

The very thought of vast stretches of water, inter-
sected with innumerable islands, became an overwhelm-
ing lure. I pictured heaven knows what within the
depths of the channels and off the coral reefs of this
virgin part of the world. A day came when, after his
again suggesting that I should go there, and informing
me that he had a yacht which was exactly the craft
necessary for this work, I fell.

“ Look here,” I said. ” What would an expedition
lasting a month cost, including stores, guns and am-
munition (most necessary for big game, alligators, and
the final killing of great fish), gasolene, and crew’s
wages ? ”

Rapidly he calculated a round sum, and I asked him
to come at 12 o’clock next day, telling him that in the
meantime I would discuss the question with Lady
Richmond Brown,

The latter, since leaving Jamaica, had been suffering
firom a recurrence of an internal trouble which had
necessitated a very serious operation in England in the

I LEAVE FOR UNKNOWN WATERS 113

spring of 1921, and I feared that it would be impossible
for her to accompany us on a trip whose hardships I
fully realised were bound to be considerable. Being
closely associated with her in many business affairs, I
had serious qualms about leaving her in her present
state of health on an expedition from which it was
quite possible I might never return. A journey in a
little craft, over many miles of sea, in an unchartered
archipelago, would obviously necessitate considerable
risks.

Discussing every aspect of the matter with her, I
found she was enthusiastic that I should make the
attempt, and would not hear of my refusing.

“ You must go,” she said ; “ I’ve a premonition that
this trip will have great results.” And her words were
indeed prophetic.

Fitzwilliam kept his appointment punctually and I
told him that I would start as soon as he liked. He
imdertook the commissioning of the boat with every
necessity, and without delay I stowed my big-game
fishing tackle, guns, etc., safely on board.

On the morning of Thursday, 20th April, we left
Colon Dock at daybreak on board the little 20-ton
cruiser yacht Cara. This splendid little craft was
fitted with a 38-h.p. medium-duty standard engine, had
excellent cabin accommodation, and was lit throughout
with electric light ; but having no sail, one was entirely
dependent upon the engine.

All those who have visited this part of the world at
this time of the year, and the adjacent Republics
bordering the Caribbean Sea, know the type of weather
which always prevails in April. The North-east Trades
blowing strongly without cessation kick up a very
rough sea, and to make matters worse, there is never a
lull, for they continue day and night, with hardly any
variation in force. On this occasion the climatic con-
ditions existing acted fully up to their reputation.

Immediately on leaving the outer harbour of Colon,
we commenced to ship big seas, which grew steadily
8

1 14 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

worse as we continued our journey. We were also
running straight into the wind, travelling east-nor’-east.
Every few minutes the little yacht performed a species
of nose-dive, the propeller leaving the water completely,
and although the Cara's normal speed was 9 knots, it
took just six hours to reach Porto Bello (arriving at
1.30 p.m.), a distance of 22 miles. Three times during
this journey we developed engine trouble, mainly owing
to stoppage of fuel feed caused by the violent action of
the boat. Personally I was thankful when we entered
the peace and calm of this remarkable natural harbour.

I was intensely interested in the old town and ruined
forts destroyed by the great English pirate Sir Henry
Morgan, of which much could be written, but shall
confine myself to describing fishing experiences during
this expedition.

After we had dropped our anchor, a couple of dug-
outs came alongside, and I went ashore in one of them,
but, returning to the yacht 'with little delay, I com-
menced fishing operations from the dinghy which we
carried.

I tried many places in Porto Bello Harbour, and
although I am convinced that large fish are to be had,
not once did a tell-tale nibble enliven the proceedings.

We remained there that night, leaving the following
morning, and after clearing the Sister Cay Islands at
the entrance to the harbour, ran into bad weather again.
Once more the heavy rolling caused engine trouble and
we had to put into Garoti.

CHAPTER XIV

THE SAN BLAS — SECOND JOURNEY TO UNKNOWN WATERS

i~SHALL pass over the various ports of call on the
journey to the San Bias, as I must deal with these in
toto when describing a second expedition. Suffice it to
say that in the late afternoon of the 24th April we
passed through El Porvenir Reef, and went straight on
to Mandinga, remaining there for the night. I im-
mediately rigged up my fishing-tackle, using a 36-thread
line and an 8-inch Wilson spoon-bait, proposing to troll
from the back of the yacht the following morning ; and
next day, while proceeding from this anchorage to visit
various little islands in the San Bias Archipelago, I hit
into my first fish.

I was sitting in rather a precarious position at the
extreme end of the boat, the water at the time being
calm, as the sea here is cut off from the roaring hell
outside by a series of coral reefs, when without warning
a tremendous tug came, so nearly pulling me over that
it was with the greatest difficulty I managed to hang
on to the rod and regain my balance. We were cutting
through the water at about 9 knots — ^the resistance of
this, coupled with the weight of the struggling fish,
making the playing of it most difficult ; but when the
boat stopped in response to my yells, the handling of it
became a simpler matter.

It put up a splendid fight, and though not once did
it come to the surface and give me a view of it, I knew
by the bulldog-like shakes transmitted up the line that
I was fast into a barracouda, which proved to be the,
case when finally landed. This one weighed just P'W

ii6 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

42 pounds. How I detest these vicious fish, and in
this part of the world they are a veritable plague 1

I have never bathed in these waters, for what with
the barracoudas, sharks, rays, stinging seaweed, and
other life which dwells therein, I always felt discretion
was the better part of valour, though many times the
beautiful limpid clearness of the water was an almost
irresistible temptation.

As this was really an exploratory visit for the purpose
of obtaining information, I propose only to touch
briefly on the ensuing few weeks. Suffice it to say that
after a most interesting and highly productive experi-
ence, nearly a month later the return journey was com-
menced.

During this period I had caught many fish — of jack
nothing larger than 14 pounds ; of red snapper 22
pounds (my first barracouda of 42 pounds proved to be
my largest), Spanish mackerel up to 8 pounds ; but all
my fishing had been very hurried, never staying for
any length of time in a given place. I had, however,
learnt sufficient to know that there were great possi-
bilities awaiting when more time lay at my disposal
than I could give on this trip.

My fishing was considerably enlivened when again
nearing the El Porvenir Channel. About 6 miles from
here, while proceeding at a speed of 9 knots an hour,
a large school of porpoises were indulging in their
favourite pastime of playing at the sides and bow of
the boat. It is curious how these fish love to amuse
themselves in this way ; diving and darting beneath
the bows, circling under the boat — ^they always remind
me of a pack of hounds.

As usual, I was fishing from the stern, trolling with
my spoon-bait, when with a tremendous smash (only
the double grip I had prevented my losing everything)
the line commenced to tear off the reel at a tremendous
rate. Quickly the boat stopped, and now started my
first real battle with a big fish on this voyage.

Ye gods 1 what a fight ! I had not the faintest idea

THE SAN BLAS it;

into what I had smashed, no fish I had ever struck
behaving in a similar fashion. Almost the whole of my
line, in spite of the greatest braking strain I dared put on,
was torn from the reel before I could check the first
rush, and I do not believe this could have been accom-
plished had not the engine of the boat been reversed,
and we proceeded astern in the direction the fish was
travelling.

Fighting with the utmost fury, in wide circles, broken
ever and again by furious rushes, the strength of this
battling denizen of the deep appeared inexhaustible.
Many times it seemed impossible that I could ever
bring it alongside, and a full hour elapsed before I
could even obtain sight of it, when I was astonished to
see it was actually a porpoise. As all fishermen prob-
ably know, this is a most unusual occurrence — ^in fact
I have only heard of one other case of such a fish hooked
and landed. Ultimately, with the greatest care I
worked it alongside the yacht.

Then came the question of how to get it up on deck.
First it was gaffed and held, while a rope was passed
round it, and by all heaving together, it was hoisted up.
The photograph shows how this was accomplished. It
weighed just over 200 pounds.

Although a very poor taxidermist, I managed to
preserve the skin, and subsequently, on my return to
Colon, had it mounted as well as local skill could do it.

During the skinning process we had proceeded
steadily on our journey, and on gaining the open water,
the turmoil of the rollers seemed to me to have con-
siderably abated, possibly because the trade wind was
now almost behind us. That evening we put in at a
little natural harbour, once more passing through a
narrow opening in a reef, and lying snugly close to the
land in the calm pool behind.

It was here I pitched overboard the carcase of the
porpoise. I had been keeping it for the special reason
of noting as carefully as possible the feeding habits
of the shark, and owing to its considerable fatty com-

ii8 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

position, I surmised it would float. Overboard with a
tremendous splash it went, and sure enough, slowly it
drifted away, bobbing up and down on the surface.
Within a very few minutes two or three swirls of water
appeared close to it, and I could plainly see a couple
of small sharks, about 3 to 5 feet long, helping them-
selves to mouthfuls— then, for no apparent reason, they
almost simultaneously disappeared, when from the
depths a huge bulk hurled itself at the red fleshy mass
of the skinned porpoise. There was a frightful ingurgi-
tation of water, and to my astonishment the whole
carcase, which certainly must have weighed round 170
pounds, was taken into the great shark’s mouth at one
gulp.

Both in animal and bird life, as many people have,
no doubt, remarked, a curious wagging motion of the
tail synchronises with swallowing. The pelican, when
feeding, is a good example of it. Lambs suckling
and dogs being fed provide the same demonstration in
the animal world. The shark proved that in this
particular species the tail followed the same motion as
that of animal life, for it is a fact that after swallowing
what was evidently much to its taste, its tail moved
rapidly to and fro.

As the fish remained on the surface for a full minute
rolling — one might almost say wallowing — as if from
pure enjoyment of the meal just despatched, I was
able to observe it closely. I was very glad of the
opportunity to gain first-hand information with regard
to its feeding habits, for it subsequently proved very
useful to me in tackling the great monsters of the
Pacific.

On leaving the little port I trolled all the way back to
Colon, catching several fish of no great importance as
regards size, and ultimately arrived after an absence
of nearly a month. I felt that I had gained a great
deal of knowledge on this trip, and I brought back
with me a large collection of Indian curios, etc. I
had several long conversations with Lady Richmond

THE SAN BLAS 119

Brown, whose health, unfortunately, ha-d not improved
during my absence. In my mind was germinating the
idea of a really ambitious expedition — ^no less than an
exhaustive examination and exploration of the whole of
the San Bias Archipelago, fishing the waters thoroughly,
and visiting every Indian village.

Twenty-five miles from the mainland in the sarne
vicinity I had learnt was a group of small islands entirely
uninhabited, known to the Indians as Kaymaal, which
had hitherto never been visited, so far as I could dis-
cover, by any white person, and on this trip I had
obtained more or less substantiated evidence of the
real existence of a remarkable race a comparatively
short distance inland. These were the legendary people
of whom tales have been told throughout Central
America from time immemorial. It was reputed that
some hundreds of years ago the old Spanish Con-
quistadores attempted a landing here but were unable
to effect it owing to the savagery of the natives, and
now I was filled with the desire to achieve what seemed
almost the impossible.

In the matter of a dangerous expedition into unknown
country three things were to be considered :

(1) A boat for the purpose of carrying stores, guns,
and the impedimenta necessary for a voyage of this
magnitude was an essential.

(2) A moving sleeping-base was another necessity.

(3) To reach a place whence one would endeavour to
penetrate inland was out of the question except by sea.

As all those who know Panama well must realise,
the country in the direction of the Colombian border
is absolutely impenetrable, by reason of its dense
jungle, etc.

By one of those curious coincidences which seem to
occur at psychological moments in our lives. Major
Fitzwilliam was desirous of leaving Panama and re-
turning to the United States for good, and as he could
not take his yacht with him he was anxious to dispose
of it.

120

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Here was our means- of accomplishing the cherished
plan, the yacht Cara being in every essential suitable
for the purpose. As Fitzwilliam wanted to leave
immediately, after a short discussion with Lady Brown,
the purchase of the boat was agreed on, and we were now
able to sail when and wherever we choose.

However, on the eve of starting out for the Great
Adventure, Lady Brown’s illness suddenly became
acute, necessitating her removal to Colon Government
Hospital. For days it looked as if another operation
was inevitable, but owing to the skill of Dr. Tom Leary,
the Chief, it was avoided, though she was obliged
to remain there for nearly a month, receiving every
possible attention and care. It is indeed with great
pleasure that I record the fact that nowhere else could
she have had better care and treatment.

Her ambition, though quenched for the moment,
was not given up — she was always counting the days
before we could leave for our projected exploration.
I had many conversations -with Dr. Leary, being most
anxious to know if her health would stand the strain
of an expedition which I knew, from the experience
I had already gained, would tax her strength to the
utmost, and would occupy an unknown period of weeks,
possibly months. He vigorously supported the idea
of her going, believing that the sea-voyage would do
more for her than any medicine. I made full prepara-
tions therefore for the journey, loading up with stores
of all descriptions, 600 gallons of gasolene — ^in fact,
everything that I thought would be required.

Here I must explain that one of the greatest essentials
was a medicine-chest, the value of which I had found
onmy pre-vious voyage of discovery, but the chief reason
for taking it is given in Lady Brown’s amazing book. My
V(^agetothe Unknown. To the Santo Tomas Hospital,
His Excellency Dr. Belisario Porras (the President of
Panan^), and Dr. Eusibio Morales (Minister of Finance)
I am indebted for the help they gave me, not only in
supplying me with all my medical requirements, but

121

THE SAN BLAS

for active assistance in many ways ; and after a farewell
dinner at the Washington Hotel to wish tis bon voyage,
we left to face the dangers of the unknown, followed by
the good wishes of our friends and the press in Panama.

At daybreak on Thursday, 22nd June, we started, and
encountered some rough seas outside the breakwater,
and as upon the previous trip, we put into Porto Bello
Harbour. Once more I fished here, though it is true in
a perfunctory manner, with the same negligible results,
and the next morning, in the deuce of a big sea,
we put out.

Owing to the vile weather, which I really believe
must continue the whole year round, we only proceeded
as far as Garoti. This is a perfectly beautiful natural
harbour. Entering through a channel between the
rocky barrier, one finds immediately perfect peace,
the great seas are left behind, and simultaneously with
passing through the reef a placid land-encircled lagoon
is discovered. It is easy to see that the mainland here
is a solid wall of jungle, which clothes the mountainous
hills completely to their summit.

Down went the anchor, and we determined to fish
the vicinity. What a beautiful spot ! Here is a perfect
silver-sandy beach fringed with palms. Millions of
curious minute brown jelly-fish were working close to
the shore, their method of propulsion being most peculiar,
really beyond description. Close in to the shore jack
and small barracouda were smashing the surface and
casting the fry right on to the beach. So I obtained
my bait in a very short time.

My fishing-costume consisted of only a bathing-suit, for
I had now become absolutely sun-tanned and hardened
to the fiercest rays of the sun. No matter how great
the heat it did not seem to affect me in the slightest.

Using a light rod, 9-thread line, etc., I had some
really excellent sport from big boulders which jutted
right out into the sea. An hour and a half’s fishing
produced a bag of 1 1 red snappers, running from half
a pound to a pound and a half ; 14 jack averaging a

122 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

pound ; 2 barracoudas weighing four and five pounds
respectively, and several other fish.

Towards the end of my fishing I think the parents of
the small barracoudas I had caught must have arrived,
for three times in succession on striking I was smashed
up ; but during the hour and a half I had been at it
I enjoyed every minute thoroughly, and, even better
still, had a supply of fresh fish for supper.

CHAPTER XV

IN THE MIDST OF THE PRIMITIVE WILDS — ^THE STRANGE
LIFE THEREIN

We passed the night at G^roti. The thunder of the
surf outside, together with the drone of insects, and
innumerable curious noises from the various inhabitants
of the jungle, brought home more vividly than anything
else could have done the fact that we had indeed reached
the wilds.

Turning in about 9 o’clock, I seemed to have
hardly closed my eyes when I was rudely awakened by
the most awful noise. It seemed as if the whole world
had gone mad. Sleeping in the cock-pit with the rain-
screens dropped round me, I got up, pulled them aside,
and was almost blinded by the terrific lightning. The
roar of the surf outside seemed to have become inten-
sified. A curious moaning and groaning could be dis-
cerned whenever the shattering thunder momentarily
ceased, I crept along the deck to the bow, where
Robbie, the Cara's coloured engineer, and my other
native man were hard at work on something.

“ What are we in for ? ” I yelled.

“ Great Chuquesana coming,” replied the second
man, who called himself John (^orge.

I then saw what they were working at. The little
dinghy we had with us was brought, alongside the bow
of the yacht and a second anchor was lowered into it.
John George rowed straight ahead as hard as he could,
while Robbie played out the chain after him, and about
30 yards away the anchor was dropped into the water
from the dinghy, which then returned. They both

124 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

hauled hard on the chain, fastening it round the
capstan, so we now had a double anchor out.

“ What the devil is all this for ? ” I asked.

“ Chuquesana coming, Boss,” again replied old John
George,

I hadn’t the faintest idea what all this meant, but I
was not long in doubt. The lightning and thunder
were now virtually continuous — ^in fact, there was no
cessation between the flashes, which seemed to be one
sheet of electric fluid. As I stood there a puff of wind
struck me.

” Hang on, Boss ! ” shouted Robbie ; ” here it
comes ! ” And then I experienced for the first time
what is possibly the greatest climatic danger one has
to contend with in this part of the world. With a
howl as if all the fiends of hell had been let loose it
rushed on m, and well indeed was it that my two men
had had the sense to run out the second anchor, for it
is certain that if we had trusted only to one, although
under the lee of the island, it would have dragged, and
we should have been blown across the lagoon and driven
on the opposite shore.

It was a most awe-inspiring sight. The blaze of
light, roar of the thunder, and shriek of the wind, com-
bined with the fact that it was night, brought a realisa-
tion of how utterly puny we and our little boat were
when opposed to the full force of nature in her raging
moods. Although it seemed hours, it could not have
lasted more than forty-five minutes, and it passed as
quickly as it came. The moon shone down, the lagoon
and land once again appearing as if nothing had dis-
turbed the serenity of this beautiful spot.

Next day, immediately after breakfast, we continued
our journey. Passing through the Isla Grandi Channel,
after an hour’s sharp run we made Nombre di Dios.
Our little cruiser did well — ^the way she rode the big
roUexs was wonderful, scarcely ever shipping water.
After leaving here we ran between the shore and an
exttemely dangerous reef, which I believe is known

IN THE MIDST OF PRIMITIVE WILDS 125

as Escabanos reef, and about 4 p.m. without mishap
threaded the channel at El Porvenir. What a relief
it was to slide into smooth water after over ten hours’
rolling and pitching in the heavy Caribbean.

“ What do you think of this fairy-land ? ” I said to
Lady Richmond Brown. She seemed hardly able to
reply. I think the vista of the tiny palm-tree covered
islands so far exceeded in beauty anything she had
previously seen that she was almost rendered speechless.
As for me, I revelled in the thought that here was a
limitless expanse of water, that taking one's own time,
with no thought of days, weeks, or even months, one
could fish at leisure and examine the life which dwelt
within its depths.

We dropped anchor in a channel between two of the
islands, and here Lady Brown had her first sight of the
San Bias Indians.

Without waste of time, still using my light tackle, I
started fishing and within a quarter of an hour had
landed the first. A supper of fresh fish was always a
great treat after the tinned food which was our staple
diet.

I caught five or six red snappers that evening, and
could, no doubt, have had good sport ; but in the
morning, away in the distance on the horizon, faintly
outlined against the sky, we discerned what seemed to
be a small dark smudge.

“ Look here,” I said, ” let’s try to make for that
place over there. It’s almost a certainty it’s never
been visited before.”

Raising the anchor, off we went. For two or three
miles the sea was as smooth as glass, and then quite
unexpectedly we struck a wicked piece of water. A
channel here a mile or two in width opens out to the
main sea, and the full force of the Caribbean was roaring
through in white crested combers. My God ! how we
rolled. I bolted below to the little cabin to secure our
duffle, etc., which was being flung all over the place.
Our little craft, however, weathered the turbulent

126

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

passage in splendid style, and shortly the outer reef,
with one or two low-lying islands which were almost
flush with the water, once more gave us protection.
Here in the lee the sea resumed its calm. We had no
charts, for the good reason that there are none in
existence, and had to trust to luck, coupled with extreme
care, in our navigation in these seas. Presently right
ahead of us a really beautiful island appeared, con-
siderably larger than the others, but to approach it we
had to pass over a very suspicious-looking patch of
lightish ground, which appeared perilously near the
surface. By going dead slow we managed to cross what
we could see, when immediately above it, was a sand-
shoal, though we had several anxious moments, as
there could not have been more than a few inches of
water between our keel and the bottom.

Once over, however, we glided into a translucent pool
almost completely protected by tiny reefs and miniature
islands. Here we dropped anchor, and within a few
minutes I had got several pan-fish — ^i.e. fish for
frying.

The sea, islands, reefs — all appeared to invite explora-
tion, and getting into the dinghy, with John George
rowing, we commenced an investigation of the sur-
roundings.

After pulling a short distance, we found the water
shallowed to about a foot and a half, and for a mile
or so ahead, and a breadth of approximately a quarter
of a mile, it hardly varied in depth. Being in our
bathing costumes, we stepped over the side of the dinghy,
wading about wherever we pleased, and were surprised
to find innumerable sponges covering the bottom in
every direction. We gathered quite a number, de-
positing them in the dinghy, together with many shells
and other curious specimens, including two new species
of sea-eggs.

We then continued our wading to a tiny island,
certainly not larger than half an acre, where the
ubiquitous palm tree, even on this patch of land.

IN THE MIDST OF PRIMITIVE WILDS 127

managed to find sustenance. Eleven sturdy specimens
were growing here, affording a grateful shade.

We found several Queen shells, but much smaller
ones than those we had discovered in Jamaica off
Parattee Point.

While sitting on the sand resting from our exertions
we witnessed a most curious sight. Close to the
beach here (as at Garoti) into the shallow water
rushed a school of jack after the fry. The noise
they made could have been heard a hundred yards
away. They thrashed and beat the poor little beggars,
driving them up on the beach, and I was able to get
bait for my &hing by retrieving those that were
stranded.

Spending the rest of the day in collecting, by the time
we reached the yacht again the little dinghy was nearly
full of odds and ends, and, thoroughly tired out, at
sundown we turned in, to wake at daybreak and con-
tinue our journey. We found, however, that although
from a distance the visiting of these outer islands
looked quite simple, it was another question when we
tried ; for we had not gone more than a few miles
farther, amidst the maze of sand-shoals, reefs, mud-flats,
and islands, before right ahead of us stretched a rocky
barrier. Try as we would we could find no opening
and at last we had to give in and return. Past the
little anchorage where we had spent the previous night,
into the roaring hills of water thundering through the
channel we went. This time we were not compelled to
cross it, for on entering we swung hard to port, running
with the heavy sea astern, and into calmer water,
anchoring in a little natural shelter behind an Indian
island called Oorgande. Pausing only long enough to
eat, we continued our journey, and the same evening
stopped in a channel, between two islands, called
Nargana.

That night I went on an alligator expedition up a
near-by river.

It may be of interest to many people to know how

128 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

hunting is done at night in the wilds, so I will give a
description of this outing.

I carried a -303 Army Service rifle, using split nickel
bullets, and carrying a spot-light. This is an excellent
device, an acetylene lamp, the charge and water being
carried in a receptacle which is hung in your belt.
From thence a tube runs to a circular leather band
which fits round the head, and on this band is affixed
the lamp with a reflector. Thus the rays penetrate the
darkness straight ahead from your forehead, and the
beams, encountering the eyes of an alligator, or other
reptile, flash vivid red. With the cat family, such as
the leopard, jaguar, etc., the eyes flash green, and an
excellent sight can be obtained with a rifle.

I killed four alligators on this occasion, and here had
a very narrow squeak, which again illustrated the fact
that one should never grow careless. Having killed
alligators in many parts of the world, I know their
habits fairly well ; and in a reed-bed up the river I
had noticed a number of tiny reptiles which had only
recently hatched out. They are curious little chaps
when this size, and I thought I should take two or three
back. I had already picked up one, and was reaching
for another when it commenced to make a curious, thin,
rasping noise. This was immediately followed by a
tremendous smashing and splashing in the reeds, and
almost before I could reach for my rifle, which I had
deposited in the bottom of the boat, Mrs. Alligator,
thoroughly enraged at the molestation of her offspring,
rushed to the rescue and came right alongside. I fired
like lightning, but I have not the faintest idea where
the bullet went. However, the furious creature dis-
appeared, for which I was truly grateful. I really
believe she was the most unpleasant female I have
ever encountered. An attack by one of these powerful
brutes on a cockleshell of a boat up a river in the
aniddle of the night might easily have ended disastrously.

The “ skeeters " and sand-flies here were a perfect
league, ahd as, like a fool, I had neglected to put on

NATIVES GATHERED TO SEE WHIP-RAYS, WHOSE UNDERSIDES ARE WHITE
AND TOPS GREY WITH WHITE SPOTS (p. 47).

TOP SIDES OF WHIP RAYS, SHOWING WHITE MARKINGS AND WHIP-LIKE TAILS.
4S]

IN THE MIDST OF PRIMITIVE WILDS 129

breeches and top-boots and was only wearing shorts, I
paid the penalty. On my return to the yacht sleep
was impossible owing to the irritation caused by these
obnoxious insects. Did I murmur a few well-chosen
words ? Ask my brother-hunters, and the fishermen of
the Jersey coast ! I spent the hours till dawn in violent
scratching and cursing, and was more than glad when
we raise<?anchor and left this place of evil memories.

9

CHAPTER XVI

WE CATCH MANY REMARKABLE FISH — ^THE MYSTERIOUS

KAYMAALS

For the first few hours of this day’s run, in order to
reach the next island, the greatest care had to be
exercised while once more traversing a wide channel,
intersected by unexpected points of reef. Nearly all
these islands seem to have reefs running off or round
them, making navigation extremely difl&cult ; but by
watcWg the colour of the water we were able to go
close inshore, astonishing the Indian inhabitants. It
was a most remarkable sight — ^how they put off in
their dug-outs, and swarmed on board before we had
dropped the anchor in what can best be described
as a pool. From the natives I gathered that large fish
made this their home, so, impaling a large piece of
Spanish mackerel which we had caught by trolling a
Wilson spoon behind on our morning’s run, I cast out,
using my heaviest rod, reel, and S4-thread line. These
simple islanders eyed my tackle with amazement ; I
am sure they had not the least idea what I intended to
do with this — to them — extraordinary contrivance ; but
they were not left long in doubt, for, to their great glee,
within a few minutes, with a creaking jerk, the top of
the heavy split-cane, steel-centred rod bent over, and I
was fast into my first really big fellow since we entered
the San Bias.

I wasted as little time as possible, putting brute
strength into the work of playing it, and when the fish
was exhausted, got into the yacht’s dinghy, rowed to
the shore, which was not more than a hundred yards
off, and finished by landing it on the beach. It proved

MANY REMARKABLE FISH 131

to be a female nurse-shark, weighing about 175 pounds.
I at once despatched it, and cutting off a large chunk,
returned to the yacht, when I cast out again. The bait
could have hardly reached the bottom before whizz !
off went the line ! The dwellers here were certainly at
home, and this time I had all my work cut out. The
nurse-shark I had just captured was a baby compared
to what I now had on, and after half an hour of battling
with muscles and body taut in a temperature of 90° in
the shade, I was all in, so Robbie, my coloured engineer,
now continued the work. This fish fought like a fiend,
and very shortly, the man instead of the fish becoming
played out, having rested, I once more took the
rod.

It must have been quite an hour and a quarter after
first hitting into this big fish before the final signs of
exhaustion became apparent on the part of my
opponent. I had manoeuvred the fish close to the yacht,
and in the limpid water could now plainly see the great
shape swimming in circles, to my amazement accom-
panied by a giant of the same species. For a little
while I thought the shark I had on was about to be
attacked by the other, but quickly perceived the real
meanin g — I had hooked a male, which is always
smaller than the female, and its mate was following
her lord and master beneath the stirface. I could
plainly see that it was at least twice as big again, and
pointed the fact out to Lady Brown, who was watching
with the keenest interest. Certainly in life this female
was most faithful, for it was not till I finally beached the
fish in the same fashion as the nurse-shark that she
disappeared. As I had surmised, it was considerably
larger than the first and weighed 360 pounds.

After ridding the sea of this creature, I sliced off a
portion of the white belly and side, then, cutting the
rest of the carcase into pieces, dumped them into the
dinghy, rowed out, and dropped them overboard.

I now got out one of my big shark lines presented to
me by Messrs. Good & Sons, attached the chain and

132 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

hook, thrusting the latter through the portion of shark
bait (it weighed about 20 pounds). Just as I was lower-
ing this into the dinghy, to be rowed out and dropped
into the water some 30 or 40 yards from the yacht, a
tremendous plunging and convulsion of the surface took
place, with, plainly visible, the wagging tail of the great
female that had been following the male I had just
caught. Having, as related, previously noticed this
curious action of the species after feeding, I wondered
what she could have been eating that had given her so
much enjoyment. My curiosity was subsequently satis-
fied.

A few minutes after my big bait had been dropped in
away went the line. Seizing it in our hands, Robbie
and I struck with all our force, and immediately realised
by the tremendous power of the fish we had driven
into that our joint strength was unequal to the strain,
so we worked the line round the capstan. Had I
struck this fish on my rod and line the results would
have been laughable, and within a couple of minutes
would probably only have ended in losing all the line ;
but with the tackle we were using it was a different
matter, and unless the hook by some strange chance
were torn out, I knew it was only a question of time
before we landed the powerful creature.

The Indians were obviously awfully pleased, though
they showed very little emotion, their stoicism being
quite remarkable. Unlike the natives of Black River,
they gave way to no shouting or laughing, but an awed
look seemed to have settled on them the whole time my
operations against these big fish were going on. By
dint of tugging and hauling, letting the line run out
to the strong rushes which were of frequent occurrence,
we ultimately brought the huge monster alongside the
yacht. The line was nearly ijo yards in length, and
the Indians, taking one end of it in their cayucas (dug-
outs), paddled a§hore. There they held on until
Robbie and I could follow in the dinghy, and then all
together we hauled it in. What a brute it was 1 Some

MANY REMARKABLE FISH 133

of these big sharks are really most hideous, and this
one was nearly barrel-shaped, very similar to the one
captured in Kingston Harbour but considerably larger.
I was wrong in my estimate as to its being only twice
as big as the male I had caught on rod and line, for
it proved to weigh no less than 910 pounds. It was
another shovel-nose, which are certainly abundant in
these waters. I preserved the vertebrse and jaws,
adding them to my collection.

My feeling that the Indians were extremely pleased
by the capture of these fish was now borne out in a
substantial manner, for they presented me with bananas,
avocado pears, and eight pine-apples. One is always
grateful for fresh fruit in the tropics — ^in fact, a con-
siderable part of one’s diet consists of it.

I believe I could have gone on catching more sharks
here, but I was absolutely worn out with these exertions,
so that I had not the energy to continue the journey
right away, and therefore remained here overnight,
not leaving till the next day, when, after another un-
eventful run, we lay in the lee of one of the small islands.
It was almost circular in shape — ^the shores pure white
sand, with about twenty coco-nut palms clustering on
the centre of its slight elevation. Everywhere I found
I could catch quite a number of edible fish, and this
constant supply all through the journey proved a great
blessing.

Throughout the whole of the San Bias territory,
especially on the outer islands, large numbers of the
valuable hawk’s-bill turtle are found. We decided to
anchor close to the small island that night, and later,
when dark, I fixed my spot-light and commenced to
walk along the sands. It was towards the end of the
breeding season, and, as doubtless many know, the
female turtles come out from the sea at night, crawl
up on the sands, and deposit their eggs, which are
hatched out by the sun, beneath the surface. I had
walked only a little way round the island before I
detected a hawk’s-bill. I ran up and quickly turned

134 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

it on its back. It weighed about 150 pounds, which
for me to move alone was quite impossible, so I called
Robbie, and between us we tied its flappers, and then
returning, we brought the dinghy along to where it lay
and managed to get it to the yacht. It had a very fine
shell, which I removed after killing. This was the
only hawk’s-bill I despatched during the entire
journey. There always seems something so pathetic
about turtles that I am afraid my dislike to killing
them would debar me from becoming a successful shell
hunter.

I returned to the place where I had found this one and
soon discovered the eggs. When cooked they make
very good eating, being almost like plovers’ eggs in
flavour.

Scarcely once during the whole of our journey did
we lack a variety of fresh food. Nature has been
bountiful in supplying this part of the world, and it
requires very little exertion to provide a variety of what
in the United States and Europe would be described
as delicacies.

After weeks of fishing and exploring, every day
adding to our knowledge, we visited a chain of islands
known as Kaymaal. This is a remarkable group,
situated five-and-twenty miles from the mainland, and
totally uninhabited. They are clothed with thousands
of coco-nut palms and present a most interesting con-
juration. Approaching them from the mainland, it
is possible to anchor close inshore by entering a narrow
opening through the coral reefs, but from the main
ocean this is out of the question. Facing seaward, the
first island was not only covered with coco-nut palms,
but right down to the water’s edge grew an impenetrable
mangrove swamp, and stretching from thence away to
where the great rollers boomed on the outer reef was a
shallow sandy plateau with a foundation of solid coral
for nearly a mile. This was intersected by several small
narrow channels from 4 to. 6 feet in depth, through
which the sea poured almost like a river, the whole of

MANY REMARKABLE FISH i3S

the rest of the flats being covered with water to the
depth of 12 or i8 inches. The mangroves were the
home of a very large colony of aigrettes, thousands having
nested here and evidently remaining all the year round. I
cannot imagine anything more beautiful than the sight
of these graceful birds with their lovely pure white
plumage, looking like huge flakes of snow, everywhere
dotting the vivid green of the mangroves. Towards
one end of the island the thick growth terminated at
the edge of a perfect sandy beach, with a few yards
away a deep blue pool about 75 yards in breadth, into
which ran one of the channels from the outer ocean.
It looked so fishable that, with some difficulty manoeuv-
ring the dinghy into it from the mainland side, we
moored where the strong flow of water entered from
the sea.

Fishing with light tackle, the variety of sport to be
got was surprising, and not only that, but no artist
could paint the beauty of many of the fish landed.
I am afraid I was entirely unable to classify the majority
of these picturesque specimens. One species, which
appeared particularly plentiful and was devilish good
eating, was almost scarlet, with large red eyes, and in
shape was somewhat similar to the perch ; another
seemed to be of the ling family, and in shade ranged
from a beautiful green to a pale yellow, with turquoise
blue eyes ; others were black, with yellow bands like
zebras. All these fish were good fighters and left
nothing to be desired in that respect.

In spite of the fact that this pool was virtually shut
in from the deep waters of the ocean, yet within its
depths lurked the ubiquitous shark. Several times we
noticed that the fish when biting freely suddenly ceased
for no apparent reason, and it was then, using a large
bait on my fine tackle, I cast out, to be almost instantly
rewarded with a strike totally unlike anything we had
been experiencing, and round the pool dashed this new
species, never once attempting to leave its habitat.
Mter about twenty minutes I landed what I knew for

136 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

a certainty was driving away the smaller fish — of
course a shark, weighing about 25 to 30 pounds. I
often wonder if there are any waters where they don’t
succeed in swimming ; for one discovers large as
well as small ones in places it would appear impossible
for them to enter.

CHAPTER XVII

FACE TO FACE WITH DEATH — THROUGH THE PANAMA
CANAL FULL SPEED FOR THE PACIFIC

Wherever we anchored our yacht, whilst exploring
this minute archipelago, the fishing was splendid.
One morning we had ten jack, in weight ranging from
26 to 41 pounds, and the same evening got four large
red snappers, the smallest 30 pounds, with one splendid
specimen scaling over 50 pounds. The varying shades
of red in these fish have a very wide range. I have
caught them from the palest salmon-pink to the most
vivid red. The jack here were also most beautifully
marked, being much brighter in hue than those of the
Jamaican waters. One morning off another island close
by I caught two fine fish which appeared to me very
like the tuna family. They weighed between 25 and
30 pounds apiece, and I should have caught quite a
number but for that confounded nuisance the shark
again making its appearance. I had struck and played
my third fish, and nearly got it to the side of the boat,
when with a rush and a bang, away went the line, one
of these vicious beasts dashed up, and not only took
my fish (which I should think weighed about the same
as the other two) in at a gulp, but bit through my wire
lead as if it had been a piece of thread. I ran out a
heavy shark line, and baiting with one of the two fish I
had caught, after a good stiff fight landed the brute.
It must have weighed nearly 600 pounds and I guess I
could have gone on catching them, but as I now had
the yacht I had determined that the Pacific should be
the centre of operations.

In mentioning that the fish caught here were very like

*37

138 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

the tuna, it may be of interest to fishermen to know that
it is an established fact that these splendid fish, the
great feeding-ground for which was for many years
supposed to be off Catalina, California, are now known
to occur in considerable numbers off the New Jersey
coast of the United States. A year or two back my
old friend Bob Meissner, of the Ocean City Fishing
Club, caught two weighing over 400 pounds each ; and
Van Campen Heilner, in his book The Call of the Surf,
describes vividly adventures with monsters of the species
on the banks about 12 miles off shore. It is estimated
that in this locality they run up to over 1,000 pounds in
weight.

Still more recently I received a report that a fish if not
the tuna, something very closely allied, had been captured
off the Canary Islands. It would be most interesting
if this could be established, but one must remember
that it is only comparatively recently that big-game
fishing has been recognised as one of the greatest and
most exciting sports in the world. It is really an art
which no “ fine-weather ” fisherman should attempt
to pursue, but for real sportsmen who are prepared to
endure a certain amount of hardship and take the good
with the bad, it will give thrills second to nothing I
know of. I have done a considerable amount of big-
game hunting in various parts of the world, but my
experience is that with modem arms brought to the
perfection that they have been to-day, the pursuit
of big beasts on land is child’s play in comparison with
hunting the big beasts of the sea.

I am now compelled to pass over our discovery of that
unknown tribe, the Chucunaque Indians, and all that
befell us in their country, as it would be poaching on
someone else’s preserves and would also occupy space
which must be devoted to battles with the leviathans of
the Pacific.

During our voyage through the San Bias Islands and
the Kaymaals, we gathered an immense amount of data,
and added largely to our collection, some of our finest

THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL 139

coral specimens and shells being discovered here, and
many strange fish. I shall always remember standing
on the top of a tiny coral mound which had not yet
risen above the surface, about 6 inches of water still
flowing over it, and looking down into the miniature
caves and crevices, where the surprising beauty of the
innumerable fish swimming in and out was such as to
be beyond the power of pen to describe adequately.
Their brilliant, varied colouring was exquisite — ^peacock-
blue, sky-blue, amber, scarlet, and some with purple
stripes, while every now and again shoals of parrot-fish
kaleidoscopically appeared like a moving picture.

Time indeed flies in the study of the amazing life in
tropical seas. After many adventures and tribulations
we started the return voyage. We had to traverse an
awful piece of water known to the Indians as Islagandee
Channel, and after two more terrific chuquesanas, El
Porvenir was once again safely reached, and we went
out through the opening in the reef into the main
ocean on oiur run to Colon.

The calmness of the water inside the barrier was
cruelly deceptive, for no sooner were we out in the
channel than our terrible danger became apparent.
A tremendous sea was running, huge rollers sweeping
right in and breaking completely across the entrance.
Almost before we were aware of our peril we were
plunged into the seething turmoil. To turn round,
which I would gladly have done, was impossible, and
the only thing to do was trust to Providence and proceed.
By almost a miracle we reached the open sea, and once
clear of the reef I breathed a sigh of relief, for had
one of the great cmling waves hit us, nothing could have
saved us from destruction — ^we should have been
dashed on the coral reef to be smashed to pieces instan-
taneously. In a sea in which a ten-thousand-ton liner
would have rolled considerably we carried on, and as
the day advanced the weather conditions grew steadily
worse. Finally, calling Lady Brown, Robbie, and John
George together, a sort of conference was held to decide

140 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

what was best to do. I pointed out that it would be
impossible for us to continue the journey to Nombre
di Dios and survive, for we were shipping water all the
time and every minute I expected the engine to fail.
There was no anchorage and the outlook -seemed hope-
less. We were in a terrible plight. As a last ray of
hope, John George told us that right close in behind
a reef a few miles farther on was a deep pool, calm as a
lake, but our chances of being able to run in between
the very narrow opening were extremely slight. In a
few words I summed up the position : if we went on
we must founder and nothing could save us ; if we ran
the reef there was a faint chance that all might yet be
well. I decided on the latter alternative, trusting to the
Goddess of Fortune to see us through. About four or
five miles farther on John George informed me we were
approaching the place. We were about three miles
out, and, looking shoreward, all I could see at that
distance was young mountains of white water which
shot into the air forty or fifty feet where the rollers
bmst on the reef.

However, there was nothing to be done but risk it,
so turning sharply in, with the sea astern, we drove
headlong to the shore. Nearer and nearer we
approached ; still I could see no opening.

“ For the love of the Lord, Boss, can you see a big
black rock sticking up ? ” suddenly asked John George,
who was piloting the boat.

Not a thing could I see. I strained my eyes through
the flying spume, but there was nothing visible but a
roaring vortex of water.

Suddenly Robbie exclaimed : “ Right ahead, John { ”
and there, appearing every now and then, I could see
a black object. At this moment we seemed to be lifted
up out of the sea by a huge roller and rushed forward
at terrific speed. It looked as if we were being hurled
to certain death. Afterwards Lady Brown told me
she had almost unconsciously noticed that beneath my
tan I was absolutely grey, and I frankly confess I was

THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL 141

gripped with fear. On either side of us rose a white
wall of water, the deep boom of which seemed to shake
the yacht. Straight ahead we rushed, driven by the
force of the great roller through a chiu'ned mass of foam,
and then — ^before one could count three — the miracle had
happened : we were through into the calm lagoon beyond !

After a strain of this sort comes a violent reaction.
This was experienced by all of us, and it is on such
occasions that the beneficial effects of alcoholic stimulant
are abundantly proved. We had a case of champagne-
on board, and a tumblerful apiece I verily believe did
more good than any medicine. It was the first time
John George and Robbie had ever taken it, but there
was no need for them to acquire the taste for it, and a
few minutes after drinking it that wine certainly pulled
us all together. “ Some ” drink — ^and I was never
more grateful for one in my life ; and I am sure the
rest felt as I did.

How long the heavy wind would blow outside it was
impossible to forecast, and it was no use thinking of
leaving until it went down, so here we were, anchored in
this little pool for goodness knows how long, our depar-
ture entirely at the mercy of the weather. There was
nothing to do but sleep, and whether it was the effects
of the strain we had undergone or of the wine I don’t
know, but the fact remains that although it was early
in the afternoon when we lay down, we none of us
awoke until the following morning, to find the sea had
abated, and that one of the usual tropical changes had
occurred. Up came the anchor and out we proceeded ;
but now, free from spume, the channel was plainly
visible. Certainly at its greatest width it could not
have been more than fifteen yards across, and at one
place where it entered the lagoon not more than eight.
Even now, though the water was calm, the utmost
care was necessary to creep out, and how we had shot
through the previous day on top of the great wave,
with hardly any mark to guide us, I shall never under-
stand.

142 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

The rest of our journey to Colon was comparatively
uneventful ; but no sooner had we passed in through
the outer harbour than once again the wind began to
roar, and for ten days following it never ceased, being
one of the worst blows known in this part of the world.
To those who have never experienced the full force of a
tropical blow it may give some idea of the thing when
I say that afterwards it was reported that on plantations
as far east as Santa Marta, Colombia, and west to Bocas
Del Toro, hundreds of thousands of banana trees were
wiped out, miles of country being devastated and
immense loss caused by the hurricane gale which
prevailed.

On arrival at Colon, with very little delay we passed
through the Panama Canal on board the yacht, receiving
the greatest courtesy and help from the United States
Government officials. On reaching Gatun it is neces-
sary to pass through three locks before arriving at
Gatun Lake, which has an area of over i8o square miles.
In the stupendous work of building the Canal it was
necessary to flood vast tracts of land here, and the
photographs of the dying jungle give some small idea
of the almost pathetic sight we witnessed. Gatun Lake
at night, with a full moon, is one of the most eerie and
ghostly places' I know; the skeleton trees faintly
silhouetted in the pale light, the shrieking of night-
birds, and the moan of the wind through the leafless
branches always give me the impression that it is indeed
the home of lost souls.

After passing through the three locks at Gatun, it
took us over four hours to cross this sheet of water
before arriving at Pedro Miguel Locks, and later
Miraflores, after which it was only a short way to
Balboa and the entrance to the Pacific. We did not
stop here, but continued our journey down the dredged
channel, past Naon and Perico, and starboarding off
the heavily fortified island of Flamenco, made towards
the island of Taboga, which we had determined to make
our headquarters for our operations in the Pacific.

THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL i43

As we proceeded on our journey, on our starboard
were the little islands of Changarmi and Tortola, while
on our port side, within two miles and a half, was
Taboguilla.

The fourteen miles’ run between Balboa and our
destination was uninterrupted by bad weather, and in
the evening we dropped anchor about a hundred yards
off Taboga and went ashore in the dinghy.

Old John George had left me at Colon — our voyage
through the San Bias, etc., had been too much for
him, and he explained to me that he was too old for
any more hardships and intended to spend the rest of
his life sitting on the dock as a sort of watchman for
the small coasting schooners which are always passing
in and out. I was sorry to part with the old chap, but
quite understood his reasons. Robbie, however, refused
to leave me — I doubt if he will as long as I live.

Henceforth I did my own navigating, and it is sur-
prising how quickly navigation is picked up when it
becomes a matter of necessity. Lady Brown also
became quite expert at handling the wheel, and in the
future it was often a relief to have someone to take
over the steering after a long spell.

It was in the Pacific I caught my greatest fish —
leviathans which I had never before succeeded in landing,
although I had known for years of their existence. I
thought out many schemes, all of which proved in the
end impracticable. I had even conjured up the idea
of depth bombs, but had been obliged to confess myself
beaten.

On arrival at Taboga, I had as usual made enquiries
among the natives in regard to the fishing, and what
they told me simply staggered me. I was again faced
with the eternal problem — ^how on earth could I attempt
to catch these big fish ?

In the Caribbean I had discarded my light fishing
tackle for the heavy rods, reels, and lines Messrs. Hardy
Bros, had built for me; these in turn had been
superseded by the hemp lines presented to me by

144 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Messrs. Good & Sons ; and now I knew that these would
have to be scrapped in favour of something else, because
if there was even a scintilla of truth in what the natives
here were telling me, no tackle I had with me, or had
ever seen, would be. the slightest use against the Pacific
monsters.

That night I hardly slept at all, pondering and
worrying over this problem, and the next morning I was
no farther towards a solution — ^when right in the middle
of breakfast I had a brain wave.

“ I’ve got it ! ” I shouted.

“ Got what ? ” asked Lady Brown, almost upsetting
her cup of tea in her astonishment.

“ Why, how to catch these big fish.”

” Oh, I’ve heard you say that many times, but I’ve
never seen you succeed yet.”

” I teU you,” I reiterated, " I’ve thought how to do

it.”

She smiled sceptically, and asked how.

” Why, hooks and lines,” I answered — “ but such
hooks and lines as have never yet been built or seen 1

She still smiled, and asked where I proposed getting
this tackle.

” I’m off,” I said, ” to the United States Government
shops at Balboa to see if they’ll help me. I’ll explain
to them what I want made, and for what purpose,
and I’m certain they’ll take a live interest.” .^d
hardly waiting to finish my breakfast, I went straight
on board the Cara and off to Balboa.

BOOK 11

CHAPTER I

THE MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE — WK CATCH OUR
FIRST PACIFIC SHARKS

On arrival at the Balboa Docks I at once called on the
Chief Superintendent and explained my mission to him.
He promptly commenced to laugh,

“ Say, do I get you right ? ” he said. “ You want
me to make you shark-hooks, and supply lines — well,
the order is somewhat unusual, isn’t it ? ”

I thought he was going to inform me that it was a
shipbuilding yard and not a fishing-tackle shop, but
he didn’t. I felt sure (as I subsequently found out was
the case) he entered into the spirit of the adventure,
and he immediately put me in touch with the machine
department. There I saw the chief, who called over one
of his best mechanics, and I shall never forget their
faces when I told them my ideas about these hooks.

Can you make me some shark-hooks ? ” I asked.

“ Sure,” he replied.

“ Ah, but nothing like those you may have heard of,”
I continued. “ I want twelve hooks made of half-inch
spring or tool steel,” and proceeded to draw the size
I required.

Several other men had joined us, and when they saw
my drawings, they commenced to roar with laughter,
and I don’t think they stopped for fully five minutes.
However, when their mirth had subsided, I went on.

” I want twelve more of three-eighth-inch steel, and a
further twelve of quarter-inch.”

” Yes, siree,” he replied ; ” but, say, you can’t fish
with them. For the love of Mike, have you reckoned
the weight ? ”

148 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

“ I haven’t the faintest notion how heavy they’ll be,
but I’m going to fish with them,” I retorted.

” What about your lines ? ”

“ I'm going to the chief over at the storehouse, to
see if he can supply me with a thousand yards of
half-inch, a thousand yards of three-eighth-inch, and
a thousand yards of quarter-inch manilla rope.”

It almost paralysed them — I really think they thought
I had completely lost my reason. They were most
anxious to know what on earth I was going to catch.

” Sharks, saw-fish, and goodness knows what else,”
I replied.

“ Yes, but, man alive 1 what are you going to do with
them ? You can’t sell sharks and saw-fish ? ”

“ I don’t want to sell them — ^what I’m after is records.
I’m endeavouring to find out the habits of these fish and
the size they run up to. I’ve tried everything I can
think of to land them and have never succeeded yet.
This tackle will be strong enough to tow the yacht.”

” To do what ? ” they fairly gasped.

” To tow the yacht,” I said. “ No man in this world
can handle these big fish himself, and my idea is to have
the line fastened to the capstan, and when I once hook
one of these great fish, to let it tow the boat until ex-
hausted; then with the help of my man Robbie, and
another native I shall get, we’ll work it alongside and
finally despatch it with a high-velocity rifle and expand-
ing bullets.”

“ Go to it, Boss ; we’ll make the hooks, and no doubt
the storehouse will let you have the lines, and we’ll
all be here, and waiting for news of your first big
fish ! ”

The work was immediately put in hand, and during
the next three days, while this strange tackle was being
made, I thoroughly examined the district.

Taboga Island is a real gem, with its ancient little
village, which is justly considered one of the most
. t 3 Tical Spanish examples at present known. It nestles
at the foot of what is almost a mountain,, over i,ooo

MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE 149

feet in height. Nearly all the houses have red and brown
roofs, and a tiny white church stands in the centre.
Nature is indeed bountiful here — ^pine-apples, papaya,
and other tropical fruits and vegetables grow in pro-
fusion. One’s simple wants can be amply supplied with-
out much exertion, and I do not wonder that the natives
appear part of, and fit in with, the peaceful serenity which
pervades ever3rthing. It is indeed the land of “ Ma-
nana,” and after all, why not ? What is the use of spend-
ing the whole of one’s life in a perpetual hurry ? It is
no wonder that the specialists are kept busy nowadays
attending various nervous disorders — ^almost epidemic
in the great cities of the world.

On the shore in front of the village and across the sandy
spit joining Morro Island to Taboga an immense variety
of curious and beautiful shells can be collected, whilst
on the small reef at the foot of the Aspinwall Hotel
coral specimens can be obtained which in their delicate
and exquisite formation I have seldom seen sm-passed.
Lovers of nature need never have an idle moment here.
There is so much to be seen and enjoyed that even if
not engaged in fishing, a month or so here would be an
absolute blessing to the jaded town-dweller.

I returned once more to Balboa, where I received
surely the strangest consignment of fishing tackle ever
seen. I found the big hooks with their chains weighed
14 pounds. I had had the barb on all these hooks filed
to the keenness of a razor’s edge, so that on striking
into the fish, they would cut in, as the mouth of all
these great fish is like iron, and with an ordinary hook
the chance of penetration is extremely doubtfuL

It would be difficult to draw a pen-picture of what the
men looked like walking to the yacht, loaded down
with the weight of these large hooks and chains, to be
followed by more, carrying the big coils of manilla rope
I intended to use for my lines. The hooks were splendidly
made, and looking at them I had the conviction that it
would require something very large, if I was luc^
enough to hook it, to smash this tackle.

150 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Returning to the Aspinwall Hotel, Taboga, my head-
quarters, I was again the recipient of much good-
natured chaff, the Panamans in particular being highly
amused, and the Star and Herald came out next day
with a full description of the gear supplied by the
United States Government to be used for tackling the
great fish. Well-intentioned advice and information
simply poured in on me, and it is no exaggeration to say
that from His Excellency the President down, everybody
eagerly awaited the result of my first attempt.

I had the yacht put into thorough order, the deck
cleared of any impediment that might obstruct rapid
movement, my guns overhauled, an ample supply of
ammunition put on board, and I rose early the next
morning to commence my battles with the giant fish
of the Pacific.

The view across the ocean from the mound on which
the hotel was situated, about a hundred feet above the
sea, in the clear morning light was simply marvellous.
The placid surface of the bay, with the little island of
Morro on the left, a panoramic view of the mainland, and
the blue hiHs, looked almost like a scene set for the stage.
Slightly to the right rose the island of Taboguilla, com-
pletely clothed in varying shades of green, while in the
distance, almost in the centre, were the San Jos6 Rock
and the islands of Perico and Flamenco, with Panama
City, and the little white dome of the Union Club peeping
out beyond. What a view I

Lady Brown had now joined me and without further
delay we went on board. Robbie had engaged one
of the Panamans from the village to help, and between
them they had managed to get a dozen Spanish mackerel,
and two red snappers, weighing about 12 to 14 pounds
each.

During the whole of my fishing operations in the
Pacific, I wore nothing but shorts, shirt, and an old
khaki drill hat, with legs quite bare. I even discarded
shoes. Lady Brown’s attire mostly consisted of a
khaki drill overall over a bathing dress.

MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE 15 1

Hauling up the anchor we started off with Taboguilla
as our objective. This we reached in about twenty-
five minutes. Facing the main ocean, the coast of this
island is composed of volcanic rock, affording no pos-
sibility of landing, but on the mainland side it has one
of the most glorious sandy beaches I have ever seen. It
is the perfect realisation of a tropical dream ; the
golden sand, running from the very edge of the coco-nut
palms and other luxuriant vegetation down to the
water's edge, gently slopes into the sea, while rising up
behind is a mountain 600 feet in height.

Right on the edge of the beach are four extraordinary
little huts, only two of which are occupied. These gems
of architecture only consist of four upright pieces of
wood, with thatched roof and sides, but they add greatly
to the picturesqueness of the island.

Passing in the yacht about 50 yards off shore, every
object on the sandy bottom was plainly visible. The
depth of the water was about 20 to 25 feet, and sand
ripples, and even tiny shells, stood out with the utmost
clearness. Several big fish scurried off at our approach,
and also two large turtles.

As we neared the rocky point farthest from Taboga,
for miles the whole sea was alive with myriads of skipper-
jack and Spanish mackerel breaking water, while over-
head hovered frigate birds and pelicans, the latter, as if at
a given signal, dropping perpendicularly into the ocean,
a dozen or twenty of them at a time, in their everlasting
search for food. It is really remarkable the amount
these birds swallow. No human being could possibly
eat a fraction of what they consume a day, and it is
astonishing how large a mouthful they can take in at
a time — but the pelican's capacity is proverbial.

About so yards off shore, and close to this rocty
point, we anchored on a smooth sandy bottom. I
suppose the depth of the water here would be from
1 5 to 20 feet, and for a quarter of an hour after this I
ruminated what my plan of campaign should be, my
pondering being rudely interrupted, for, without warn-

152 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

ing, into the air, about 30 yards from the boat, sprang
a sand-shark. It seemed literally to shake itself, and
then back with a crash into its natural element it fell.
A hundred and fifty yards away to the left almost at
once this was repeated by another, and so it continued
all round us : both close to the yacht, and as far as we
could see, these fish frequently leaped. They were all
sand-sharks, and I have since studied this peculiar
characteristic many times, and can only come to the one
conclusion — that in this violent fashion they are trying
to rid themselves of sea-lice. Although subsequently
I must have caught dozens, if not hundreds, never once
have I landed one that had not a number of these
filthy-looking brownish flat things attached to it. If
they are as annoying to fish as their first cousins on land
are to us, I do not wonder the poor devils have recourse
to almost any method of ridding themselves of the
irritation.

I had now decided on my plan of action. I imagined
the Spanish mackerel and jack I had brought would
be too insignificant a bait for the monsters I believed
lurked here, therefore it was necessary I should get
something really substantial to tempt them with. I
determined to run out four of my smaUest-sized hooks
and lines, baiting with a Spanish mackerel each, in an
endeavour to catch a sand-shark. The dinghy, which
we towed, was brought alongside the bow, and I lowered
a bait into the little boat, which was rowed out about
35 yards, while I paid out the line. On my giving the
signal to stop, it was dropped into the water. This
operation was repeated with the other three, so that
the four lines were all radiating from the bow of the
yacht at different angles. With all of them I had a
good many spare yards on deck, so that a fish striking
might have a good run before I attempted to drive the
hook home. I admonished Lady Brown, Robbie, and
the native always to remember one thing — ^to keep their
legs clear of the line, for I knew that if they once became
entangled, nothing could save them from going over-

MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE 153

board to almost certain death. Our last line was
scarcely out before the first, was seized, the spare coils
rapidly running from the deck. I picked it up, and let
it run through my hands, at first without resistance,
then hauled back, and struck with all my strength.
Yow I it was as if a red-hot iron had seared my flesh.
I had forgotten the friction caixsed by a rapidly moving
dry line when held tight. Robbie now grasped it with
me and we both commenced to play the feh. There
was no fear of a break, but (as. I have subsequently
learnt by experience) the greatest care has to be taken
in playing a big fish on a hand line. Yes, I had still
much to learn. I was assuredly a neophyte with the
tackle I was now using.

How that fish fought J Time and again it changed
its methods to escape, finally in a wide sweep it circled,
passing round the bow. I had yelled to the other man
and Lady Brown, and they were hauling in the spare
lines as fast as they could, to prevent a general entangle-
ment. They had got two in, and were proceeding to -
haul in the last, when it was violently torn from their
hands.

" Let go this line, Robbie I ” I cried, “ and help over
there, I’ll try to manage this one myself.”

This other line had now run out its full length, but
was tied on to the capstan, and I could see all three of
them commencing to haul on this other fish. Suddenly
the one they were playing came to the top of the water,
smashing the surface with its tail, immediately bolting
beneath again, and rushing headlong across my line.
Both were now entangled, for the fish proceeded to
become inextricably mixed, the two lines becoming as
one.

By dint of much hard labour, we regained a few
yards, only to have the mad plunges of these fighters
tear off with it once more, but ultimately we brought
the pair of them alongside, and now I was to learn the
wiles of the Pacific sand-sharks. Holding them by
the side of the boat while we took a breathing-space

154 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

for a minute or two, I told Robbie to get a club I had
had made, and, while the three of us held on, to lean
over the side of the boat and endeavour to stun them.
Just as he was bending over for this purpose, with a
smash of their tails against the side of the yacht, like
lightning away they both went again, and this was the
most violent rush of all. However, they soon spent
themselves, and within a few minutes once more we
had them floating motionless alongside. Robbie now
got one well home with the club, immediately stunning
the fish, repeating the same operation with the
other.

. We disentangled the lines sufficiently to attend to
each separately, and all four of us, with hard work,
got both up on deck. I really thought they were hors
de combat, but as I bent over to remove the hook from
the mouth of one, without warning I got a tremendous
blow from the tail. My shoulder received most of the
force, but my face got some of it as well and my pipe
was knocked ox^t of my mouth into the sea some yards
from the boat. The loss of my old friend would indeed
have been a disaster, and everything had to wait while
it was being retrieved by Robbie in the dinghy, and I
was sodn in possession of my old briar, which was none
the worse. Taking no more chances with the two
sharks, I clubbed them thoroughly, making doubly
sure they were despatched before removing the hoofa.

I now had my bait for the great monsters.

These two fish weighed between 260 and 280 pounds
apiece. I first carefully opened one, examining it for
disease. I then removed the head and tail and severed
the body completely down the centre, taking out the
vertebrae. I now had the two great slabs of fish,
which with the guts, head and tail removed, weighed
about 75 pounds each.

“ Now then,” I said, ” I'll see whether my theories
are right.”

” What are you going to do with these two lumps of
flesh ? ” said I<ady Brown.

MAKING OF STRANGE TACKLE iss

I’m going to use an entire piece for bait : it’s for
that I’ve had the heavy tackle made.”

Taking one of the 14-pound hooks, I then impaled
an entire half-side of sand-shark on it, attaching it
with its chain to a hundred yards of half-inch manilla
rope. This done, I performed the same operation with
the second piece.

Once more the dinghy was brought alongside the bow,
and Robbie and I lowering the bait down, the native
rowed away from the side of the yacht, as he had done
with the smaller lines, repeating the operation with
the second one. I had now my lines out on either
side of the boat, and there was nothing to be done but
sit down and wait for what might happen.

CHAPTER II

BATTLE WITH A 1,460-POUNDS SHOVEL-NOSE SHARK —
EXTRAORDINARY FISH CAUGHT OFF TABOGA

The first quarter of an hour I was all anticipation. I
think I had expected a rush to follow as quickly as
when we had run out the lighter tackle for the sand-
sharks, but not a quiver disturbed the lines. Half an
hour passed and still no sign of a strike. At the end
of an hour I said to Robbie :

“ Let’s have some tea.” -

We were very tired and thirsty after our experiences
with our first fish. Sand-sharks were still jumping,
and Spanish mackerel and skipper jacks were pla3dng
on the surface in all directions, while inshore quite a
number of small barracouda frequently leaped into the
air, flashing in the sun.

All of a sudden, 50 or 60 yards off the bow of the boat,
two big garfish about four feet in length tore across the
surface of the water in the manner peculiar to thig
family. No doubt many who have travelled in tropical
waters have seen the eccentric method of propulsion
employed by these fish. They race along on their tail
in a series of jumps, the whole of the rest of the body
being completely out of the water. In their wake,
cutting the surface at a tremendous rate, flashed the
huge black dorsal fin of a mighty shark.

" Now, what about sharks ? ” I said. " That fish
weighs well over a thousand pounds — ^its strength must
be simply enormous. That’s the sort of thing I’m
after with the big hooks, and this is the only tackle
that could stand the tremendous strain if a fish like
that took it into its head to swallow the bait.”

I5«

EXTRAORDINARY FISH OFF TABOGA iS7

Once more I was keyed up to a pitch of the greatest
excitement, for surely, I argued, the size, if nothing
else, of the great lump I had fixed to the hook would
attract it.

Again my hopes were disappointed, for still there was
no sign of a strike. However, it was a beautiful morning,
and I now had a good fresh cup of tea, so what with a
perfect day, my tea and pipe, I felt it was indeed a
case of “ God’s in His heaven, all’s right with the
world.” I believe it is only poets and fishermen who
appreciate the truth of this sentiment.

Lady Brown and Robbie did not seem to think much
of my idea of gigantic hooks and baits , while my Taboga
native, placidly eating a papaya, appeared thoroughly
uninterested — ^as long as he had his papaya or something
to eat, as far as he was concerned nothing else in this
world mattered much.

“ How much longer are you going to sit there boiling
in the sun ? ” suddenly asked Lady Brown, for the
heat was so terrific that the varnish on the deck was all
coming up in blisters, while any metal exposed to the
full rays of the sun was so hot that it could not be
touched.

" Hang it all ! let’s wait a bit longer,” I replied, for,
I was really very loath to admit failure the first time ,of
trying my new tackle.

” Well, I’m simply sizzling,” she retorted, and then
proceeded to the stern, got into the cock-pit, and at once
went to sleep. A few minutes later I saw the Panaman
and Robbie had followed her example, and I must
admit I felt much inclined to do the same. It was
really too hot and peaceful to bother about anything,
and my first excited expectations had worn off.

,I began to wonder if these mighty fish would feed on
a dead bait on the bottom, or whether there was some
means of attaching a large live fish, which would be
more attractive, I was drowsing, conjuring up all sorts
of visions of Jurassic monsters, when I seemed to see
one of my big lines move. I quickly came to life. Yes,

158 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

sure enough the slack was commencing to leave the
deck — slowly, but ever faster.

“ A fish ! I roared — “ a fish 1 ! ”

Up jumped the Panaman and Robbie as if they had
been shot, while a scramble from the back of the boat
told me that Lady Brown had also been shaken from her
peaceful slumbers and was not going to miss the battle.
The line was now fast running out, gaining in speed
every second. What to do I had no knowledge. I knew
that to attempt to strike and hold it with our strength
would be absolutely ridiculous — ^we should probably be
whipped off the deck and into the sea like wind-blown
straws. Robbie was about to catch hold of it, but I
shouted to him to let it alone.

With a jerk, and almost a thud, it tightened on the
capstan — one could hear the half-inch manilla rope
creak under the strain. Slowly the yacht rode ahead.
The anchor chain at the bow tightened.

“ Haul up the anchor quick 1 ” I cried, and up it
came. Freed from this, the yacht was now being towed.
I was in the meantime pulling the other big line in as
hard as I could.

“ It’s one of them ! ” I cried — “ one of the giants
I’ve always dreamt I’d land. Whether we’ll succeed
with this one I don’t know ; but if we do, mark my
words, it’ll be the greatest fish I’ve ever captured 1 ”

We now all four seized the rope and hauled on the
moving bulk beneath the surface. It did not seem to
fight very much, neither were there any violent struggles
or tremendous rushes— just an enormous dead weight.
We were completely helpless so far as endeavouring to
check its progress was concerned, so there was nothing
to be done until it had become exhausted.

Slowly it circled, the yacht following, we hauling on
the rope the whole time. At last we were glad to find that
with our joint strength we were able to commence to
work the fish nearer the yacht. By strenuous efforts
yard after yard of the line was regained. We now gave
the rope a turn round the capstan, while Robbie fetched

EXTRAORDINARY FISH OFF TABOGA 159

the rifle, so that all might be in readiness to give the
coup de grdce when — ^as we hoped — ^it was finally brought
alongside the yacht, but a long time elapsed before we
were able to gain a sight of this mammoth creature.
Persistently we worked it closer and closer, until at
last slowly to the surface the great brute came alongside.

The steel hook had been driven completely through,
behind the lower jaw, with no danger of ever coming
out until cut. What a mouth ! Rapidly I fired two
bullets through the base of the head, but it had quite
the opposite effect to what I had hoped. Instead of
killing the fish, it seemed to lash it into a fury. The
other three had let go the line simultaneously with my
firing, and with immense speed off again it rushed.

The vitality of this fish was simply astounding. It
took us fairly half an hour before it was again worked
up to the yacht. I could see it was almost dead, but to
make certain smashed another expanding bullet through
it, and there it lay, feebly flapping its tail. Fastening
the line tight, we left it, and all rested for a quarter of
an horn.

Now came the question of what on earth we were
going to do with it. I was determined to remove the
jaws and vertebrae of all great fish, perform an autopsy,
thoroughly examine them, and take series of photo-
graphs, as I was most anxious to obtain all the knowledge
and data I could of these greater inhabitants of the sea.

I carried a long pole with a steel hook at the end,
similar to a gaff, and leaning over the side with this,
I brought the tail to the surface, when Robbie got a
half-hitch round it with a three-quarter-inch manilla
rope we had with us. Two of us hauling the line with
the hook 'through the mouth, and the other two the
rope round the tail, aided by the buoyancy of the water,
we manoeuvred it to the stem of the yacht, where we
affixed the rope attached to its tail short up on the aft
capstan, started the engine, and made for the shore,
dragging the bulky carcase behind us. Fifty yards off
the beach we dropped the yacht’s anchor, and unfasten-

i6o BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

ing the rope from the capstan, allowed the fish to sink to
the bottom, and taking the reverse end of the line to
that hitched round the tail, rowed ashore in the dinghy
with it. Then all together we pulled the fish in. We
were able to accomplish this until it reached shallow
water, when all our efforts to move it up farther were
unavailing. It was virtually high tide, and in this part
of the world the Pacific Ocean has a rise and fall of a
mean average of i6 feet every 12 hours, so that all I had
to do was possess my soul in patience until the ebb,
which would leave the monster high and dry.

Lying down in the shade of the palm trees we waited.
Slowly the tide receded, but it was over two hoinrs before
we were able to get a full view of omr quarry. It proved
to be another shovel-nose, though far and away larger
than any I had yet seen or expected to see. It measured
14 feet 9 inches in length, 11 feet 3 inches in girth, the
circumference of the jaws being s feet 4 inches. It
weighed 1,460 pounds,^

Robbie, who was by now becoming quite an expert
in ichthyology, helped me with the autopsy. To those
who have never tried it, I expect this sounds quite a
simple operation, but with a fish of this size it takes
hours, and it is really very hard work. The skin is
extremely tough, and I found that only specially made
knives of tool steel (for which again I have to thank the
United States Gk)vemmeht) would perform the cutting
effectively. Even then it was necessary to resharpen
the edge frequently, as the rasping, sand-paper hide
quickly blunts the hardest steel.

This shark contained fifteen foetal young nearly fuUy
developed. After removing these, together with the
enormous liver and entire entraib, we took the flesh
off either side of the vertebrae, which, after having
been taken out, had to be cleaned. Whilst doing this
I. found a large calcined growth attached, similar to
that of the shark I caught in Kingston Harbour. When-
ever I have caught a shark with this disease or mal-

^ Photograph faces p. 196.

EXTRAORDINARY FISH OFF TABOGA i6i

formation, I have always noticed an enormous girth
accompanying it. At the end of this book I will give
my deductions, etc., on these post-mortem examinations,
and other facts in regard to their habits.

The photograph shows the tremendous size of this
fish in comparison to our two selves.

By the time we had finished our laboius, I felt it had
been a good day’s work well done. I had proved the
efficiency of my new tackle, and felt very bucked with this
knowledge, as it opened up the probability of catching
something still bigger.

Before starting on an intensive campaign against the
sea-monsters, I made up my mind to spend a few days
with rod and line for the purpose of obtaining general
knowledge.

There is a landing-place on Taboga Island which
consists of a wooden pontoon, supported on four very
large steel drums. It is securely moored to the bottom
by chains, and communicates with the land by means
of a small wooden bridge and stone jetty, the whole
standing out about 50 yards from the shore.

Next day, using Spanish mackerel as bait, and armed
with two medium light rods and reels, I^dy Brown
and I cast out from this dock, and sitting down, peace-
fully proceeded to await events. We were not kept long
in anticipation before I had my first strike, and as the
fish made off — ” Aha ! ” I said to my companion,
“ here’s something different 1 ” for as all those who do
a considerable amount of fishing know, one’s touch
becomes so sensitive that, after having fished for some
time in any district, you can instinctively tell what you
have on, when you have hooked into something beneath
the surface, and I knew at once the movement of this
fish was totally different from any I had yet caught ;
but when it suddenly skipped out of the water on its
tail, showing the whole length of its body, gleaming
beautifully in the sun, we both knew at once what it
was, and I ultimately landed the largest garfish I had
ever seen. It measured 4 feet 10 inches in length, and

II

16:2 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

must have weighed from 8 to lo pounds. When first
caught, the brilliant silver of the belly merging into a
peacock-blue back was startling in its vividness.

It is an extraordinary-looking fish, long and slender,
the head with the almost sword-fish nose being a most
interesting feature ; but before I had finished pxaminirjg
this one. Lady Brown was fast in another, which when
landed proved almost identical to mine.

We had caught seven of these fish, when, having
another bite, and striking. Lady Brown called out :

“ I’ve got something different this time I ”

The fish she had now hooked was fighting much har der
than the garfish, but taking her time, and handling it
tenderly, she presently brought to the side of the pontoon
a splendid corbina, which, when getting up on the little
dock, we found weighed well over ii pounds. This
is another excellent fish for the table, and we made up
our minds to feast on it that night.

So pleased were we with our sport that we determined
to fish here on the morrow, and as bait was nearly
always obtainable we were saved the worry of wondering
about that, for one of the worst disappointments I
know is to find a perfect day for fishing, and no bait.
This has happened to me many times, and I can
sympathise with all -fellow-anglers who must have
experienced the same thing.

Our first two successes when we fished here again
proved to be more garfish. Lady Brown after this was
being bothered by some apparently small fish niggling
her bait continually. I advised her to strike immediately
she felt a touch, and after several ineffectual attempts
she said :

“ I’ve got whatever it is, but it doesn’t seem to be
much 1 ”

It showed no fight — ^all she had to do was reel it
straight in,

" What on earth is it ? ” she enquired.

“ Wait a moment,” I answered, ” and I’ll show you.”

I raised it on to the dock. It was about 20 inches

EXTRAORDINARY FISH OFF TABOGA 163

long, the back dark grey in colour, with a pure white
belly, and a mouth fashioned like an extremely strong
beak. I carefully detached the hook, meantime inform-
ing her that the beak-like mouth was strong enough
to smash one’s finger.

" Now watch I ” I said, and commenced to stroke
the white belly gently. Slowly it started to expand —
larger and larger it grew.

“ Heavenly Powers I It'll burst In a minute 1
What’s the matter with it ? ”

“ Nothing,” I replied, “ it’s a blow-fish — just feel
it now.”

It was almost as round as a balloon and tight as a drum.

I explained that this fish could at will inflate itself,
nature having provided it with this curious means of
frightening away its enemies. I suppose, when attacked
beneath the surface by some other fish, its antagonist
must feel very astonished (if fish are capable of being sur-
prised) to see this queer creature turning into a balloon
in firont of its very eyes 1 I have caught large quantities
of these blow-fish, but differently marked, along the
New Jersey coast, chiefly in Barnegat Bay and Corsons
Inlet, also in the Gulf of Mexico, in the Pacific off
Corinto, and many other places,' and have never failed
to stroke them, invariably producing this laughable infla-
tion. Frequently if you throw them back when they
are swollen out like this, they will float on the surface
for almost a minute, apparently so much surprised that
they forget to release the air.

CHAPTER III

SPLENDID SPORT WITH ROD AND LINE — A PAPAGAYOU
OF SIXTY-FIVE AND A HALF POUNDS

Not long after this I was rewarded by catching an-
other strange inhabitant, almost black, relieved by
a broad orange band, and shaped like a John Dory, or
bream. It emits a decided regular grunt when brought
to land. The noise issues through two apertures im-
mediately adjoining the pectoral fins. With this fish
much care has also to be exercised in removing the hook
firom the mouth, which is shaped almost like a pig’s snout,
and is as hard as iron. With its grunts and its appear-
ance its name should be “ pig-fish,” and that is what I
always call it, but what the scientific name is I have never
been able to discover.

After lunching we resumed our fishing. Whilst Lady
Brown still used her rod, I had changed mine for heavier
tackle, using 36-thread line, with a correspondingly
larger hook and bait. I had not been fishing more than
ten minutes before I had a tremendous strike, and
straight out to sea rushed the fish. Harder and yet
harder I applied-the brake : not a bit of use — I might just
as well have tried to stop the Majestic.

“ O Lord ! ” I groaned, " here goes the lot 1 ”

Twang I all the fine had run out down to the bare
spool, and here broke off.

“ Two hundred yards of line gone west ! Damn ! ”

“ Really, your language is simply awful,” said Lady
Brown.

“ Oh, have a heart 1 ” I replied. “ How do you
expect any human being to remain complacent when
they’ve lost the whole of their tackle ? ”

164

SPORT WITH ROD AND LINE 165

“ Yes, but you don’t need to say things like that.’*

“ You’ve never been smashed up yet,” I retorted.

” I hope if I ever am,” she replied piously, ” I shan't
use such strong expressions I ”

However, I really think the fates ordained I was to
have my revenge, for we had hardly finished speaking,
and I was just going back for another line, when over
bent the point of her rod, and she was fast into a big
fish.

“ I can’t hold it ! ” she cried,

“ Brake harder ! ” I advised unfeelingly.

“ Do take the rod,” she implored, in an agonised
voice.

“ Not I ! ” was my emphatic answer. ” I want to
see what you’re going to do ! ”

Straight out to sea — just like the one I had struck —
went her fish.

“ It’s getting to the end of the line, and I can’t stop
it.”

“ Neither can I,” I retorted.

The end was reached. Snap! it parted on the
spool.

It was over an hour before anything happened, when
once more it fell to Lady Brown’s lot to strike into a
big fish, whereupon she again called for help, but I was
hard-hearted and adamant and refused to render the
slightest assistance, being liberally rewarded with sotto-
voce expressions that I wouldn’t have disdained to use
myself. However, she handled this fish splendidly —
I’m not sure I didn’t secretly hope she would lose it again,
for I was certainly enjoying the fun ; but after twenty
minutes' strenuous fight, I saw she was really becoming
exhausted, so I weakened. Preparing to heap coals of
fire on her head, I suggested she should hand over
her rod to me, and take a breathing-space — ^and the
trouble I brought on myself 1 It seemed to be the last
straw that broke the camel’s back, and despite her
struggles with the fish, she turned on me.

“ I’ll land it myself now, if I drop ; and if I don’t.

i66 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

it’ll be all your fault ” — ^and land it she did, though it
took nearly forty minutes before it was brought along-
side, when I was allowed to get the gaff well home,
and between us, with much difficulty, we dragged it up.
It was a sand-shark, weighing just over 8o pounds ; but
for the rest of the day I followed the example of Agag !
And I learnt quite a lot about fishing during the next
few hours, my pupil having turned professor.

Our sport with the rod had proved so interesting and
exciting we determined to continue it and went off in
the yacht next day, passing between Taboga and Urava
Island, both fishing from the stem, trolling a Wilson
spoon. We had no luck until nearing Chamd Island,
when I had a good strike. Stopping the engine, I
played the fish carefully and landed a pretty jack
about 28 pounds. Passing Chamd, and close to the
Valladolid Rock, we both hit into a fish simultaneously,
and landed two more jack about the same size as the
first.

Swinging round in a broad circle, leaving Chamd
Point on our stem, we made for the island of Melones,
where we had a good bag of Spanish mackerel ; then
anchored close in to a little sandy beach on the main-
land side of Melones, where we took some food and
spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the island.

The tide was on the flow, though still well out, and
in between two rocks near the water’s edge I found a
fine pearl-oyster. Choosing the time when it was almost
dead low tide, we anchored next day in the same place
and by working among the rocks managed to get a
splendid lot of these beautiful shells. Some of them
were nearly as large as dessert-plates, and in the same
place we also found some fine cowries, their brilliant
surface looking as if newly varnished. They were red-
brown in colour, mottled, and some striped all over.

High up on the ledges of rock around the island is
the home of iimumerable diving cormorants. Jt is a
wonderful sight to see these birds circling, and dropping
like a leaden plummet from a height of over 200 feet

SPORT WITH ROD AND LINE 167

straight into the sea after small fish. Their keenness of
eye and accuracy in diving seem almost miraculous.

When the tide turned and commenced to run in
strongly, we were perforce compelled to cease searching
for shells, and rowing out to the yacht, commenced to
fish from our anchorage ; but except for an unsophisti-
cated garfish, found the jack, mackerel, etc., would
apparently only take a fast-moving bait, still or bottom
fishing for them being useless.

Just before we left for Taboga a school of the largest
porpoises I have ever seen passed close alongside the
boat, and during our return journey played round us ;
many of them must have weighed considerably over a
thousand pounds. So close were they that on many
occasions, when they rose from the water, I could
easily have shot them had I so desired. We watched
them disporting themselves, until apparently they
became tired and pursued their rolling way towards
the mainland. We then started trolling from the stem,
and before we arrived at Taboga managed to land three
good jack about 30 pounds apiece. These I saved,
intending to go out the following day off Taboguilla,
but after all preparations had been made the engine
refused to work. For sheer, pure cussedness give me a
marine engine. It may be running perfectly until you
stop, and then for no earthly reason it will refuse to
start up again. That is just what happened here. We
spent over an hour and a half trying to make that piece
of machinery do its duty, but it strenuously refused,
so with much trouble I had to get another boat to tow
us i^ominiously into Balboa Docks, where, after
examination, it really seemed impossible that such a
triviality should have upset one's plans. A tiny spring
had become deranged or broken, and was all put right
within an hour ; but the whole day had been wasted,
and my three jack were now useless for bait, so we did
the town, and started back in the evening.

Just before we had passed Tortola Island, which lies
between Balboa and Taboga, I saw a big jet, almost

1 68 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

HTf<» steam, blow into the air about a hundred yards
off the port bow.

“I’m going to show you something,” I said to Lady
Brown, who had not noticed anything. “ Look over
there.”

Her amazement was great when another big steam-
like jet was blown upwards, and there appeared a
gigantic brown mass, larger than our yacht. Its size
was really frightful.

“ What is that enormous fish ? ” asked Lady Brown.

“ Your fish is a mammal,” I replied. “ You are now
seeing your first whale.”

I wanted to give her a good view, so turning the
yacht’s head in the direction in which we had seen it
submerge, and reckoning its course of progress, we
headed for it and were rewarded when once more this
colossus made its appearance. It came to the surface
this time no farther off from the boat than 30 or 40
yards, and at this distance we could distinctly hear the
strong hiss as it blew. It was a great sight as it rolled
over and dived below, the strange, flattened-out,
horizontally placed tail (that of the porpoise’s is the
same) coming clear of the water. I could not help
thinking what a tremendous experience it would be if
I ever harpooned one from the yacht, and wondered
how many miles we should be towed before the fight
ended.

Resuming oiur journey, a little farther on we ran
into a school of porpoises, which followed us almost
to Taboga. In a vast expanse like the Pacific there is
always something fresh to occupy one’s attention, and
give interest — ^the varied sea-life I have witnessed
travelling down from San Francisco past the Central
American Republics to Panama has always made me
realise how little one knows of that which dwells within
the depths. I think there is no doubt that the finest
fishing in the world can be obtained in these waters.

I su^ested that we should try the pontoon again,
but not with our light lines — ” once bitten, twice shy ” ;

SPORT WITH ROD AND LINE 169
so instead of going to Taboguilla next day, we com-
menced to fish here.

I had not long to wait before I had a real bite. I
struck as it ran and at once knew I was fast into a good
fish.

“ This is something different again,” I said. As I
spoke, out of the water came a big head with the
mouth wide open, shaking furiously.

“ What is it ? ”

“ Hanged if I know.”

Carefully I played the fish. Whatever else it might
be it was certainly game, and it was well I had my
heavy tackle. Presently it commenced to swim rapidly
close to the surface, while above appeared a curious
back dorsal ornament — ^it could hardly be called a fin,
it was not unlike a cock’s comb — ^and then I knew what
I was fast into, though it was far larger than any I
had previously encountered.

“ It’s a papagayou 1 ” I shouted. This is the
Spanish name — I believe meaning “ daddy rooster ” or
“ cock bird ” ; but after about five-and-twenty minutes
I had it beat and successfully landed it.

The hues of nearly all fish caught in these waters are
simply wonderful, and this was a most beautiful
example, with its curious cockscomb-like back fin in
varied colours. It weighed 65J pounds. I do not
know whether this is a record for this species, but it
was certainly by a long way the largest I had ever
captured. Those I had previously brought to gaff
would average somewhere in the vicinity of 10 to 12
pounds. Quite a number of the natives from the
village came to look at it, and I judged from then-
conversation it was also the largest they had ever seen.

I don’t know if it would have been good eating, as we
did not sample it, keeping it for Taboguilla next
dg-y.

After this we had several more fish, including one or
two corbino of about 3 or 4 pounds, and a s-pound
snapper — a good sporting day, and when we knocked

170 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

off we felt very pleased with ourselves and the world
in general.

After dinner we were treated to a real Taboga night,
with the moon at full. It was a sight worth seeing.
The view looking through the palm trees, gleaming in
the pale light out on to the Pacific, calm, peaceful, and
shimmering, its surface reminding one of a lunar glacial
effect, remains ineffaceably stamped in my memory.

Being an island and away from the mainland swamps
it is reasonably free from mosquitoes, and it is very
interesting to go down on the pontoon and watch the
globes of phosphorescence in the water, almost like
blue fairy-lamps. As fish at night are alwa3rs plentiful
beneath the dark surface, they seem to leave a glowing
stream of fire behind them ; but all this has to be
seen to be thoroughly appreciated — ^the tropics both by
day and night are a never-ending source of wonder.

CHAPTER IV

WE FIGHT THREE SAND-SHARKS SIMULTANEOUSLY
REMARKABLE FISH ON LAND

Bright and early next morning we cruised to Tabo-
guilla, anchoring in the identical spot where I had caught
the huge shovel-nose shark a few days previously. I
had brought my papagayou, which I required as bait
for the preliminary operations, and at once ran out four
of my smallest lines and hooks— —i.e. the quarter-inch
manilla, etc. We must have seen dozens of sand-sharks
on our way, and the lines had not been in the water
more than a few minutes before the fun commenced
fast and furious. Away went the port line, and im-
mediately the starboard followed it. A real fight was
taking place on either side of the boat. There had been
no time to get the other two lines in, and while all four
of us had our attention fully occupied by the two fish
we had on, off went both the other lines. Before the
slack on deck of one was fully run out, it stopped, but
the other continued right to the end, to be brought up
with a jerk on the capstan. All being fully occupied,
we had to leave this shark to its own devices, but on
gipnring in the direction at intervals, we could see
by the jerking of the line that it was well hooked. I
knew quite well what was going to happen, and registered
a vow that this was the last time I would run out four
lines, for an inextricable tangle was an absolute cer-
tainty. In their circling and struggling all three were
bound to come together. They did, and they even
managed to wind themselves up in the anchor chain. We
were now in an appalling mess. As we looked over the
bow, there they were, all of them tugging in different

172 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

directions, wound round and round the chain ; and the
task of freeing them seemed hopeless. It was no use
pulling up our anchor, as its weight, together with the
three fish, would be quite beyond our strength to raise ;
and to cut the lines and thereby lose hooks and chains
was unthinkable. What a hell of a tangle !

“ There's only one thing to do,” I said, " and that’s
to leave the whole damned lot till they fight themselves
to a standstill ” ; so, puflfing, blowing, and perspiring
with our exertions, we sat down to a much-needed rest.
We had sat at ease for no more than a few minutes when
Lady Brown called my attention to an extraordinary
sight.

“ Heavenly Powers I ” she ejaculated (her usual
exclamation of surprise), “ look at all the sharks coming
up to the boat I ”

Ahead of the bow at least thirty fins were showing
above the water, all making in one direction. At
first I could not make out what this procession
meant, but light suddenly dawned on me. The strug-
gling sharks were bleeding from where the hooks had
penetrated, and their voracious brethren, attracted by
the smell of the blood drifting down with the current,
were following the scent. Right up to the boat they
swarmed, circling like a pack of wolves round their
prey, ever waiting for an opportune moment to dash
in and cannibalistically feed on their kind. By firing
bullets into the water and spanking the side of the yacht,
we managed to drive them off, but not very far, for we
could see them quite distinctly, watching and waiting
at a distance of 50 or 60 yards from us.

Our three hooked sharks were now completely ex-
hausted, but we were still no nearer a solution as to
how we should get them disentangled from the anchor
chain. However, we ultimately got over the difficulty.

Detaching first one line and then the other firom the
capstan, to which they were all three fastened, we
gradually unwound them as far as we could, then,
bringing the dinghy round to the bow and holding on

REMARKABLE FISH 173

to the anchor chain, reached into the water with an iron
hook on the end of a long pole and managed to get hold
of each in turn separately beneath the surface. Like
this we brought them one by one to the top, supported
them there until the final disentanglement could be
accomplished, and after clubbing them to make sure
they would do us no further damage when once on board,
the four of us together hauled all three fish on deck.

They appeared to be almost identical in weight,
ranging about 260 pounds apiece. I opened them,
examining them carefully for disease, etc., and as usual
preserved their vertebrae and jaws.

The watching sharks had now approached close to
the boat again, but I had ample bait for my heaviest
tackle, so did not bother about them, leaving them to
vent their rage on one another, which this family are
not loath to do, for no beasts on land fight with a greater
savagery and malevolence than these monsters of the sea.

I now impaled two masses of flesh on my 14-pound
hooks, ran them out from the yacht and proceeded to
await events ; but this time there was no long period
of waiting as on my first attempt. Evidently the swarm
of sand-sharks were not the only fish attracted by the
smell of blood, for within ten minutes — slowly at first,
then ever faster — off went one of the heavy lines.

Thung I it came up with a jerk on the capstan, taut
as the hawser of a straining liner when being docked.
So tremendous was the strain placed on it that the
water sprayed from the wet line. It at once slackened.

“ Gone ! ” I cried.

Hauling in, we found the hook cleared — evidently
when it had struck into the iron mouth, it had not
penetrated. Quickly fixing on another chunk of flesh,
out it went once more. At the end of about half an
hour, both lines seemed to go off together, each travelling
in the same direction, converging off the bow, and almost
simultaneously came up with a tremendous jerk when
the ends were reached The yacht rode ahead under
the force of the pull.

174 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

“ Now we’re going to see something,” I said. “ If
these fish pull in opposite directions it’ll be devilish
funny to watch I ”

Now some extraordinary action beneath the water
occurred which I have never been able to understand.
Both lines suddenly dropped dead slack, and picking
them up, it at once became evident that not only was
there no fish at the end, but the hooks also had gone.
We hauled them in, and in each case the half-inch manilla
rope had been completely severed, as if cut clean with
a knife. How this was accomplished, considering the
chains attached to the hook were over six feet in length,
and the line itself was severed at a distance of two or
three feet above this, is quite beyond me. It would
almost seem as if the fish possessed the instinct to come
forward and bite the line through, having deliberate
knowledge that in this way it could liberate itself. I
was, however, learning all the while, though I must
admit I was somewhat disgusted.

As it was a perfect day, with a dead calm sea, it was
suggested we should cease fishing and explore the sandy
beach on Taboguilla ; so up came the anchor, and we
ran the yacht back a short distance, anchoring close off
shore, proceeding thence in the dinghy. The water
was so tempting here that we could not resist a bathe,
but there was no swimming out — we remained in about
three feet of water, with Robbie standing on guard with
an ever-ready rifle in case of possible emergencies. I
must admit there was- not much pleasure in it, for the
certainty that the water was infested by sharks, and
having to be the whole time on the qui vive, quite spoilt
our enjoyment. Towels were unnecessary here, as
within a few minutes, walking about the beach, our
costumes were as if they had never been wet, and the
strength of the sun’s rays would, no doubt, have skiimed
anybody who had not become thoroughly acclimatised.
We searched for some time for shells, and got together
a most interesting lot before wandering farther afield.

Among the bushes bordering the beach we found a

REMARKABLE FISH 175

large colony of crabs. They were almost identical
with the hermit-crab, which, doubtless, many people
have seen and picked up when wading in the water
close to the shore ; but the difference between the land-
crab and the hermit-crab of the sea, which annexes an
empty shell under water, tTirning it into a sort of home
and running about the bottom with it always attached,
withdrawing into it at will on any sign of danger, is
that the land-crab evidently finds an empty shell on
the beach and immediately makes a domicile of it.
We watched for some considerable time, and found — ^not
only now, but on many subsequent occasions — ^that the
land-crabs never entered the sea and were able to with-
stand the roasting heat of the sun without its having
the least effect on them. They closely resemble their
prototype, the hermit-crab, but here on land they
actually climb the plants and trees to feed on insects,
etc. The way they were able to run up the sides of
the palm-trees and bushes, with their shell attached,
was most remarkable.

Inland from the San Bias I had also found crabs like
this, climbing trees, and feeding on the ripe fruit, and
I later discovered many of them when 25 miles up the
Bayano River, some distance from the banks in the
interior of the dense bush. This wiU, no doubt, appear
surprising to many people, but if one studies closely
the evolution of life in its earlier stages, it is easily
explained.

Scientists recognise that milhons of years ago ap-
parently some of the worm-like creatures left the sea
for the land, and developed what can best be described
as tubes in the skin, or a species of tiny lung, for breath-
ing air. There is no doubt that spiders, scorpions, and
centipedes evolved in this way. Beyond question, in
certain rivers of Queensland there are very stumpy fish
which have an actual lung as well as gills, and this
is yet another proof of nature’s amazing work. The
reason is that the waters of these rivers run low in the
summer, and the lung is developed to help the animals

176 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

to breathe. In Egypt, and in several countries of South
America there are fish of the same family, with two
lungs as well as gills. The rivers in which they live
dry up entirely in the summer, and gills, the prime
functions of which are for breathing in water, are then
quite useless to the fish. So they more or less bury
themselves in the dry mud and breathe by their lungs
until the wet season comes and the rivers fill. They can
walk on their fins. In fact their fins may be described
as badly made limbs — so here you have really a fish
out of water.

The small fish called “ godame ” in the Black River,
Jamaica, and mud-fish can live a considerable time out
of water. I have kept the former for over a week in
damp moss and on returning them to their natural
element have found them as lively as ever.

During a period of research work on the Pacific
shores, and off Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and
especially the Pearl Islands (about 50 miles off the
coast of Panama), I have many times found a most
extraordinary creature. It apparently lives in the
sea, but at low water can be seen on the rocks or in
shallow pools. On being disturbed its action is almost
the same as a land-lizard — ^it immediately makes for
the water, covering the ground in a series of leaps,
jumping from rock to rock, and being able to cross gaps
of from 3 to 4 feet in this manner. Up nearly every
river in Central America one can often see the lizards,
whose natural home is the bush, run across the surface
of the water at great speed, crossing a stream of 40 to
50 yards with ease.

There are several species of crab that, crawling or
running alternately, are able to make surprisingly long
jumps, bunching themselves on their legs and covering
quite long distances at each spring.

Again, you have another species of crab which seems
to enjoy leaving the water, and, quite unaffected by the
{faring heat of the white sands, runs about with great
rapidity, making hol^ for itself on a beach the heat

REMARKABLE FISH 177

of which is so great that to walk on it with naked feet
would be impossible. I noticed quite a large colony of
these crabs on the shores of the Cham^ River, just
above the mouth where it enters the Pacific.

Collectively it is easy to see there are ample links
provided in the evolution of land-life from sea.

Having, then, spent a considerable time in watching
the land hermit-crabs at Taboguilla and in collecting
shells, we discovered a spring of beautifully clear water,
which I should imagine never runs dry. It is on the
northern side of the hill, amongst dense vegetation.
This spring, I believe, is highly mineralised. It is a
most unlikely place to discover a natural bubbling well
like this, as Taboguilla Island is quite small and its
origin undoubtedly volcanic, and nowhere else is water
to be discovered, whether formed by rain-pools or
otherwise.

We returned to Taboga with the fixed intention of
going after great fish again next day, a plan which we
carried out. I had several portions of sand-shark flesh
left over, and on our arrival in the yacht immediately
ran out the two big lines, not bothering this time to
attempt to catch sand-sharks, which were now only
interesting as bait. I had not been fishing more than
twenty minutes when we were rewarded. Off went one
of the big lines, to be brought up short on the capstan.

I knew this fish was not as large as my 1,400-pound
shovel-nose by the fact that the yacht was not pulled
ahead, and in about three-quarters of an hour, after hard
work, we got it alongside the boat and despatched it
with a rifle, then towed it astern, fixing it aft, where we
left it dangling in the water, suspended by the heavy
rope kept for this purpose. We continued to fish with
the other line and within an hour smashed into a second.

Again this was not as large as I had hoped, and in
about the same time we had the pair of them safely
hitched to the stem of the yacht, proceeded to up
anchor and tow them towards shore for the purpose
of beaching them on the high tide. That done, the
12

178 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

receding water left them grounded, and they proved
to be shovel-nose sharks, both males. One measured
12 feet 4 inches in length and 7 feet 4 inches in girth ;
the other 12 feet 7 inches, and 7 feet 9 inches in girth,
their respective weights being 860 and 920 pounds. I
opened them both, thoroughly examining, and removed
the vertebrae and jaws.

CHAPTER V

“it’s the devil! cut the line, boss — CUT THE

LINE ! ’’ — BATTLE WITH A GREAT HAMMER-HEAD SHARK

We spent several more days after the big fish, getting
more shovel-nose, none over a thousand or under
eight hundred pounds, after which we determined to
change the locality and try elsewhere. The appearance
of the channel between Taboga and Urava had much
attracted me, and we now decided to make that our
objective. I made local enquiries among the natives to
know if any big fish had been seen here.

On the slope just above high water there stands a
little house where a Panaman cultivates pine-apples,
papa}^, corn, etc., and I was assured that some time
previously wading off here two men had been killed by
very large sharks, which could frequently be seen in the
channel, so a day or two later we proceeded there. Our
first attempts to find a good anchorage were fruitless,
the reason being that the bottom appeared composed
of nothing but coral, affording no secure hold, and the
current ran very strongly ; but at the entrance facing
Taboguilla, where the water broadened out towards the
main sea, about i6o yards from the shore, we discovered
an eddy with a sandy bottom, and here we stopped.
As usual I ran out my sand-shark lines to provide bait,
and very shortly captured one. It was larger than
the usual run, fought like a demon, and weighed just
over 300 pounds.

“ Look here,” I said, “ if the fish in these waters
are anything like the size the natives say they are, let’s
give them a real feed!” and the masses of flesh I
impaled on my big hooks must have weighed quite a

179

1 80 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

hundred pounds each. These great slabs were rowed
out in the dinghy and dropped overboard, and then a long
period of expectation followed.

The morning passed and we lunched on board. Be-
lieve me, there were no privations attached to our feed-
ing on the boat, and the idea that the tropics whittles
down one’s appetite certainly did not apply in my case,
for when we fed on board our meal usually consisted of a
big plate of soup each, afterwards hot tongue or corned
beef, with carrots and turnips. The fact that all these
were tinned did not seem to us, in our hungry con-
dition, to detract from their appetisingness, and we
alwa}^ had pine-apples, bananas, oranges, or whatever
fruit was in season as well.

It was about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and I was
beginning to wonder seriously if we should have a
strike, when a movement was seen on one of the lines.
Away it went, but this time much more swiftly than
I had yet seen it travel. So great was the force when
the fastened end was abruptly reached that I expected
to hear the rope part with a crack.

“ We’re into a real one this time,” I said, and Robbie
and I immediately hauled in the other line as hard as we
could, to prevent it becoming entangled or caught in the
bottom. Our boat was straining at the anchor chain
— ^up came the anchor, and ahead we went into
deep water, for the bottom here shelves very rapidly.
We could not bother with our old iron hook, which was
now hanging straight down in the depths, our attention
being too much occupied with what we had on. Pre-
sently the big fish swung round and proceeded to make
up the channel, which at the other end has a dangerous
barrier of rocks running well out, leaving a rather small
opening to pass through, and I had moments of anxiety,
speculating whether, if the fish took it into its head to
swim through here, we should not smash against the
bottom. The nesrt day the Star and Herald would
have recorded the wreck of the good ship Cara by- a
monster of the deep, whereupon I can almost hear the

BATTLE WITH GREAT HAMMER-HEAD i8i

American section sa 3 dng, " Bughouse ! ” However, it did
not please this giant we had firmly hooked to attempt
this feat of navigation, for when nearer the rocks, it
doubled on its tracks, and back we proceeded. This time
it continued on its course until we were clear of Urava.

“ It's not a shovel-nose this time,” I said to Lady
Brown, ‘‘ and it’s not a bit of use my conjecturing what
we’ve got on until we see it, but I’ll bet it's another
record I ”

The four of us were now holding the line, but our
efforts were quite ineffectual against the strength of
this fish. After well over an hour and a half, during
which we had been towed some considerable distance,
we could plainly feel the fish weakening, and now all
together, straining as hard as we could, we commenced
to work it nearer to the yacht. Yard by yard it was
approaching, when suddenly Robbie and the native,
yelling like madmen, dropped the rope and ran towards
the other end.

” Lord, Boss 1 it’s the devil. Cut the line. Boss —
cut the line ! ”

My view having been obscured I had seen nothing and
could not understand what was catising such a panic.

“ For the Lord’s sake don’t be such fools ! ” I shouted
to them — “ come on back 1 ” for when they had let
go of the rope it had again run out to its full length
and all the work of hauling the fish in close had to be
done again.

Very reluctantly they returned, and once more we
started our muscle-racking operation. Presently the
most hideous sight appeared as a horrible-looking mass
came to the top of the water.

Merciful heavens 1 ” cried Lady Brown, “ what is it? ”

I was wild with excitement.

“ It’s the greatest hammer-head shark I’ve ever
heard of,” I replied. ” If we lose this fish it’ll break my
heart, for I’ll never get another like it as long as I live I ”

Robbie and the native were still begging me to cut,
but in forcible language I told them not to be idiots,

183 BATTLES WITJH GIANT FISH

and in short staccato sentences (I was puffing and
blowing too much to make myself lucid) I explained it
was another species of shark, which they did not believe,
being absolutely convinced it was the devil, which, for
some reason best known to themselves, they seemed to
imagine dwelt in the sea here.

“ Haul on, and look out for squalls I ” I shouted.
“ I’m going to shoot.”

Crack I crack ! 1 crack ! 1 1 the rifle sounded. I
plugged three bullets into it as quickly as I could.
One surge of water, and it lay quite still, while blood and
redstringy portions of its flesh floated away on thecurrent.

“ Now, what about your devil ? ” I asked them.

Giving the rope a hitch round the capstan, we now
all went to have a look at the ghastly object alongside,
and really I could forgive anybody for being frightened
of the spectacle presented. Truly here was an ocular
demonstration of grotesque life existing to-day as it
did in the Mesozoic period. This strange creature
was certainly unlike anything else swimming in the sea.
With great care we worked the big rope round the tail,
as before fastening it to our stern, and proceeded back
to Taboga. We had been such a long time over the
capture of this fish that darkness was now rapidly
approaching, and on arrival at our anchorage an autopsy
or photograph was out of the question. At a signal
from the yacht’s siren, two pangas put off from the
shore, and they, coupled with the yacht’s dinghy, towed
the great carcase to the beach. I could do nothing
with it that night, and the tide being low at the time,
had to get a number of other men to help haul it above
high-water mark. This took the full strength of six-
teen people, but it had to be done, as I knew perfectly
well if it remained in the sea overnight other sharks
would come in and tear it to pieces.

By this time we were thoroughly worn out, and went
to bed early, for it would occupy the best part of the
next day to take a series of photographs of our capture
and dissect it properly.

BATTLE WITH GREAT HAMMER-HEAD 183

At daybreak I summoned as many natives as I could
get, and then this great-grandfather of the hammer-head
family was again hauled into the water, to be rowed
out by the pangas and dinghy, and made fast, and oif
we chugged to Taboguilla, where it was beached on
the high tide. Instead of landing this time on the
sandy beach, I ran up farther, nearer where we usually
fished, and worked it in to where the sea runs up on
stones and boulders.

Later, on the water receding and leaving it fully
exposed, we were able to realise fully this remarkable
specimen.

First our attention was attracted by lateral scars on
the belly and side, stretching from the tail to the end
of the gills, which had been partly mutilated. The left
pectoral fin had been bitten off for more than half its
length, leaving the shortened stump. Almost in the
centre, on either side of the fish, a frightful scar showed,
which the most unversed person could see was caused
by some gigantic monster seizing the hammer-head
across the middle. One can only conjecture what the
span of jaw of this opponent must have been, but it was
certainly very much larger than the fish we had captured.

I could not help wondering why it was that in a
battle with what must have been an overwhelmingly
greater adversary the creature now lying before us had
not been rent to pieces and destroyed. Did its mate
come to the rescue ? Who knows ? I should dearly
have loved to witness a fight like this — ^it would have
been like living in the Mesozoic epoch, a spectator of
the slaughter among the giants existing in that age of
colossi ; but I had yet to become an eye-witness to
one of these remorseless encounters.

Having examined the scars and mutilations, we care-
fully measured it. It was a male fish. Although it
was 1 7 feet 6 inches in length, its girth was only 7 feet
5 inches. The hammer head measured from tip to
tip 4 feet 6 inches. The relative size in comparison
with myself can be seen in the photograph. On the

184 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

extreme ends of the strange protuberance the eyes were
situated. It weighed 1,350 pounds, but the fight it
put up far exceeded that of my first big shovel-nose,
which weighed 1,460 pounds.^ I think probably the
reason for its being so thin in comparison with its
length is the fact that it had not fully recovered from
the rending it had received in the marine battle, as the
scarred body showed the gashes had only recently healed.

By the time we had towed this fish from Taboga to
Taboguilla and examined it externally the day was
well advanced. It would take some hours, I knew, to
open this fish up and dissect it thoroughly. Lady Brown
had gone higher up in the shade of the palm trees, and
Robbie having rowed out to the yacht and fetched the
knives, etc,, we proceeded with this operation. Whew !
holy smoke ! 1 decomposition in the tropics is veiy
rapid — ^this fish had been caught the day before, and
what the warm, humid night had started the strong
morning sun had proceeded to finish,

I called out loudly to Lady Brown :

“ Can you come down here a minute ? ”

All curiosity she came running up to me, expecting
to be shown something out of the common, and I
innocently asked her if she had any scent. That
moment a puff from the fish struck her. The rest nf
the story I shall pass over, but not being selfish I didn’t
see why I should have all the treats 1 However, one
can get used to anything after a time, I suppose, and
the autopsy had to be done.

No organic disease was apparent in this fish, but the
stomach contained two red snappem, which it had
recently dined off before being captured. They weighed
at least 40 to 50 pounds apiece. The marine doctor
must have prescribed plenty of nourishing food for its
recuperation I On removal, the vertebrae proved to be
quite different from those of the shovel-nose and sand-
sharksj as were also the jaws and teeth.

I was correct in my smmise — ^it took the remainder

^ Page 160, and photograph page 196.

HAMMER-HEAD SHARK (p 1S4).
Length, \*j ft. 6 m.

BATTLE WITH GREAT HAMMER-HEAD 185

of the day to accomplish the task ; but even with the
disadvantage of the stench the work was most inter-
esting. When all was finished it was time to return,
and having thoroughly cleansed the vertebrae and jaws,
and taken them out on to the yacht, I returned to find
Lady Brown at peace with the world and fast asleep ;
but when I congratulated her on having a good rest
she vowed she had never closed her eyes.

The people had very kindly provided me with a little
shed (some distance away from the hotel I), and in this
museum my exhibits were rapidly accumulating. I
found the removed jaws, vertebrse, etc., dried splendidly
here, which was really very helpful. This little shed
almost hung on the edge of some big rocks which fell
straight down to the sea, in height about 25 feet. When-
ever I visited here, and looked down, I always noticed
in the pool below numbers of different fish, so instead
of going out fishing next day, I took my light rod down
and sat on the edge and fehed. I had quite good
sport, getting a number of pan-fish, which were cooked
for us by the hotel proprietor — ^in fact, I think they all
partook of my fish that evening.

It was just about this time I received a letter from
Dr. Casey, a well-known veterinary surgeon in Texas,
whom I had met some time previously, sa3ring that he
was very interested in my work amongst these big fish,
and would like to come down from Texas, stay at the
hotel, and go out with me for the purpose of examining
scientifically the captured specimens, and at the same
time the sporting editor of the Star and Heredd (John K.
Baxter) in his columns rather pulled my leg over the
reports they were getting about these big fish. Up to
that time Baxter and I had not met. I wrote to the
paper giving him an open invitation to come over to
Taboga and have a go at them with me, so that he
would actually witness the operations and would thus
be able to describe the fishing more accurately than he
could from the undoubtedly sensational reports he was
receiving.

1 86 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

When my letters appeared in the Star and Herald,
he added a few lines of editorial comment in which he
said he was going to take advantage of my sporting
offer, and intended to go over to Taboga, and would
publish his actual experiences. The upshot of it was
that I ran over to Balboa in the Cara, and brought hi-m
over. This was the beginning of a friendship which I
hope will always last, for he proved to be one of the
best fellows I have ever met, and we subsequently spent
many hours together. I cannot do better than publish
an extract from the Star and Herald of what he wrote
the day he arrived at Taboga :

“ I may have to go out one day and catch a shark
with Mitchell Hedges. I’m not exactly yearning for
that. I have no grievance against the sharks. They
never did anything to me. Besides, I think it may be
a frame-up. Mitchell Hedges would like to see me
hook something and then get all the skin burned off
my hands when I tried to hang on to the line. In that
case I would not be able to punch a typewriter any
more, and he could live in peace without being annoyed
by scurrilous squibs in the newspaper. These English-
men are sometimes deeper than you think they are.”

The day after Mr. Baxter arrived at Taboga, Mr.
Typaldos, the manager of the Star and Herald, also
joined us, coming over from Panama in his motor-boat.
I therefore planned that on the next morning we should
all go out on a fishing expedition together. I was very
glad that Mr. Typaldos had come, for now not only the
sporting editor but also the manager of Panama’s
leading paper would be able to see exactly the tackle
I was using for the capture of these great fish, and also
the modus operandi. It is unnecessary for me to say
that I was most anxious any reports that appeared in
the press should be absolutely accurate, as the stories
which were being spread about by the natives as to the
size of the fish I was catching were simply ridiculous.
I noticed they always grew in the retailing, pounds
becoming ultimately tons.

CHAPTER VI

A BATTLE-ROYAL BETWEEN BULL SAND-SHARKS — ^LADY
BROWN NARROWLY ESCAPES AN AWFUL DEATH

Everything being in readiness and an anaply supply of
bait secured, we left in the yacht for what I hoped
would be a great day’s sport. The start was most
auspicious, for as we neared Taboguilla, into the air
sprang a big sand-shark, to fall back with a thud and
burst of water. I saw Baxter and Typaldos look at
each other.

“ They’re here all right,” I said ; “ this is only the
commencement . ’ ’

” Do you mean to tell me you can land a fish that
size ? ” asked Baxter.

” The one you’ve just seen jump into the air,” I
replied, ” only weighed about two hundred and fifty
or three hundred pounds. Now, having seen that, just
draw on your imagination and picture what one weigh-
ing fourteen hundred and sixty pounds and measuring
fourteen feet nine inches in length would be like.”

It was only by conjuring up a picture of the relative
sizes that they could realise the dimensions of some of
the fish I had caught.

” Gk)od Lord 1 ” said Typaldos, ” it seems impos-
sible ! ”

" Well, I hope,” I answered, “ that you’ll have an
actual demonstration of a real big one, and see how the
capture of it is accomplished.” And as if the sea was
determined to provide for their especial benefit a real
display, as we travelled along inshore close to the island,
into the air rose a large, flat, dark mottled mass, re-
turning to the water with a tremendous smash.

187

1 88 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

“ I think there's an exhibition to-day,” I said to
them ; “ that was a whip- or leopard-ray. It probably
weighed somewhere about a hundred and fifty pounds.”

Turning to me, Baxter said :

“ Do you know, although I’ve lived here for a number
of years. I’d no idea the sea round here held all these
fish. It’s most surprising.”

However, a still more amazing spectacle awaited us.
We had hardly dropped anchor off Taboguilla Point, my
usual fishing -place, when what I had always longed to
see, but never had, took place within 50 yards of the
boat. A battle-royal started. It was no doubt the
breeding season. A number of the males were evidently
all desirous of wooing the same beautiful female, and
inflamed with desire, proceeded to give us an ocular
demonstration of savagery in its most primitive form.
At least twelve to fifteen bull sand-sharks appeared on
the surface and engaged in one of the most ruthless
fights that it is possible to imagine. There was no sign
of cowardice on the part of any, but only the utmost
ferocity. Rushing, tearing, and rending one another,
ripping out chunks of flesh, thrashing the water with
their tails, the spray and spume flying in every direction,
it was a veritable butchery. For at least a hundred
yards around the water was red with blood. Slowly,
one by one, they became eliminated from the fray. If
there was ever a victor, he must have been so terribly
maimed and mutilated as — I should imagine — ^to be no
longer attractive to the lady of his choice ; but my
opinion is that not one was left alive, for it could easily
be seen, by many fins dotting the surface, that other
shark were eagerly awaiting to devour the wounded
and dying as they dropped out of the struggle. In a
fight like this, any that did survive would be so enfeebled
as to become an easy prey to those who had not ta^n
part in the sanguinary conflict.

This battle must have lasted for a good half-hour,
and we had. a splendid view the whole time.

I turned to Baxter and Typaldos.

A BATTLE-ROYAL 189

“ Do you think you’d like to have a bathe here? ”
I asked ; but I’ll swear that after what they had just
seen nothing would ever tempt them to indulge in a dip
in this vicinity.

All signs of the fight had disappeared — ^the sea resumed
its placid calm — except for an occasional burst of water
from leaping sand-sharks, etc. On either side of the
boat I thereupon ran out one of the small lines, gener-
ously baited with a Spanish mackerel. Baxter took
one, and Typaldos the other. I carefully explained to
them that on having a strike, they must on no account
tighten the line immediately, but just let the slack
run freely through their hands for about 20 yards —
then haul back with all their strength. If ever I had
cherished the evil design of skinning Baxter’s hands by
the friction of the line through them, I at once recog-
nised him to be such a good sportsman that any scheme
of this sort was immediately and for ever tabooed.
Both men wore leather gloves, but my own hands had
become so toughened that I found I could dispense with
these.

Within a few seconds Baxter yelled :

“ My line’s running away I ”

“ Don’t tighten 1 " I cried. “ Wait a minute.”

Running through his hands, 20 yards disappeared
almost quicker than it takes to write.

“ Now strike for all you’re worth,” I shouted.

He did. Now, Baxter is a big man, and not exactly
what one would call slim, weighing (I should think) in
the neighbourhood of 200 pounds, and I don’t suppose
he ever had a worse shock in his life when, with a look
of ” do or die ” on his face, he gripped that line and
struck. There was an awful jerk on the line, and I just
seized the back of his coat in time to prevent his being
shot overboard. But his blood was up, he had caught
the fever, and he fought that fish with a vengeance,
throwing his whole weight into the fight. Every now
and again, when a particularly fierce rush took place, I
would hear murmurs in connection with the shark’s

1 90 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

ancestors — also a few scientific remarks concerning
where it came from and where it was likely to go : these
sporting editors are a terrible lot 1

He handled that fish to the bitter end — yes, and
without assistance, and when thoroughly exhausted, it
was brought alongside the boat. I am prepared to bet,
like General Pershing, he reckoned it the greatest day
of his life ! The perspiration was streaming from him
and his face was the colour of a boiled lobster. I am
glad to take this opportunity of recording what he
looked like, as he was once very rude to me in his
sporting columns about my shorts. But what did he
care for his appearance ? He had caught his first big
fish, and I am sure it will live in his memory for ever.

Suddenly off went Typaldos’s line. Now, he knew a
bit about fishing, having therefore some advantage over
poor Baxter, who was lying back in the boat, looking
like a piece of chewed string. On striking, an iron
mask seemed to settle over his countenance, his lips
were tightly compressed, the fighting blood of his
ancestors rose, and he battled grimly, cheered on mean-
while by gratuitous advice from Baxter ; but he handled
his fish in a really sportsmanlike fashion, and after a
most exciting struggle played his opponent out.

When both fish were placed side by side on board,
there was really not much difference in size — I should
think they weighed round 280 pounds each, but I am
sure for the rest of their lives each of them will swear
that their own was the larger.

Now having bait for the big lines, I proceeded to run
these out, and once more the uncertainty of fishing was
evinced. I cannot do better than quote from an article
in the Star and Herald, written in his own inimitable
style by Baxter himself :

“ We had visions of hauling in sharks all day at the
rate of one every ten minutes, but these remained
visions only. As a matter of fact, although we fished
until 5.30 in the afternoon, we caught nothing more.
We had runs enough — ^fifteen to be exact — but each

A BATTLE-ROYAL 19 1

time our shark, after being securely hooked to all
appearance, contrived to get away before we could
drag him alongside. I hesitate to say too much about
the size of these fish we did not catch ; they were all
huge — ^in fact each one was a little larger than the
last. The final nibbler, hooked for a minute by Mr.
Mitchell Hedges, must have been a leviathan. We
could not see these fellows, mind you, but we could tell
by the way they pulled and the things they did to
our hooks that they were monsters. Mitchell Hedges
considered it a poor day's fishing, but I am a moderate
man. To tell the truth I am only mildly interested
in sharks — ^they are ugly brutes of no great intelli-
gence [I rather disagree with the erudite writer on this
point. — F. A. M. H.], and after they have been killed
and exposed for a few hours they do not smell like the
perfumes of Araby.”

That’s what Baxter thought about it ; but on our
return we ail agreed we had had a jolly good day, and
if we had not caught the monsters, they had given us
a good sporting run, and were still left to battle with
some day or other — ^and there’s always a to-morrow.

To-morrow gave us an example of the habits of the
shark family which I shall always remember, and
showed by ocular demonstration, far better than any
theories, the considerable danger of standing or remain-
ing motionless in seas infested by these creatures.
Baxter was not with us this time, and I do not know
whether it was his strenuous exertions of the previous
day or the lure of a particularly seductive arm-chair
that prevented him joining us, but Mr. De Ossa, of
Panama City, Lady Brown, Typaldos, and myself
constituted the party. This time we did not 'go to
Taboguilla, but on leaving oxir mooring at Taboga
rounded Morro Island, and running close inshore on
the mainland side of Taboga, on reaching the western
extremity, proceeded across the bay to the island of
Melones, where we dropped anchor just off the little
sandy beach. It was a tremendously hot day even for

192 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

the tropics, and although we fished for some time here,
our efforts were only rewarded with one sand-shark
weighing about 240 pounds. Ever since our arrival,
the tide had been ebbing rapidly, and was now almost
low water. Knowing Lady Brown was very keen on
collecting shells, Mr. Typaldos, who shared the same
tastes, went ashore with her in the dinghy, leaving De
Ossa and me on the yacht to continue our fishing, but
there was nothing doing. The siurface of the water was
entirely undisturbed — ^not even a school of friendly
porpoises to break the monotony. I must confess the
heat and environment out here were not conducive to
energy, so we both placidly lolled under the white
awning of the yacht, peacefully smoking, while the
lines remained motionless in the water. We could see
Lady Brown and T3T)aldos prowling about, every now
and again stooping to pick up something. I rather
think we were envious of their energy.

We were only anchored about 40 yards off shore —
altogether I suppose we must have been about a hundred
yards away. Lady Brown was standing quite still in
about 9 inches of water, bending down with her back
to the sea, evidently examining something on the bottom,
when to our amazement and horror we saw a big black
fin making straight towards her. Right inshore it
travelled, and it was easy to see her bare legs were the
attraction.

“ Great God 1 ” I said to De Ossa, “it’s going to
attack her I ”

Right up on to the sand it swam, almost ^vriggling,
while she remained totally oblivious of her danger.
Simultaneously we roared with the utmost strength of
our lungs :

“ Don’t move I Look behind you — ^for Gk)d’s sake
don’t step back ! ’’

The fear in our voices travelling across the water
made her realise she was in mortal danger, and with
wonderful presence of mind, without moving her body
an inch, she turned her head. The entire dorsal fin

A BATTLE-ROYAL i 93

and back of the big fish was out of the water, its waiting
mouth could not have been more than 3 foct from where
she was standing. Had she made one step backwards,
the consequences would have been too awful to con-
template, and the horror of it would have remained with
us all our lives. As it was, De Ossa and I were actually-
sweating in an agony of fear, and it is impossible to
describe how our pent-up feelings were relieved when
we saw her advance calmly on to the dry beach.

I think this was the most awful position I have ever
been in — ^to see a person almost in the jaws of death,
and, owing to the distance, being utterly unable to do
anything to prevent a terrible catastrophe.

Having reached terra-firma, she turned round, but
the brute took not the slightest notice, being utterly
devoid of fear. Typaldos had run up on hearing our
shouts, and picking up a huge piece of rock, hurled it
at the damnable creature, which almost disdainfully
retreated from the shore, its dorsal fin remaining above
the surface.

“ De Ossa,” I said, “I’m going to get that fish.”

“I’m -with you,” he replied.

Taking one of ouf largest hooks and lines, we baited
■with a huge lump of the sand-shark we had caught,
and rowing in, ran the line out about 40 yards off shore
from the exact spot where it had been waiting to attack
Lady Brown. The dinghy had hardly returned from
dropping the bait before an ominous movement on the
line told more plainly than words could speak that this
voracious creature had not gone away but had remained
lurking in the -vicinity. Away went the line ; we had
fastened one end of it round a huge rock, and all of us,
seizing the rope, struck hard. We lurched forward
under the shock and could not have held it had it not
been fast to the great mass of stone, which was beyond
the power of anything to move.

As far as this fish was concerned we all felt -vindictive.
No quarter or mercy was given, and as quick as we could
finish off the job we brought it to the beach. What a
13

194 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

pleasure it was to think that this time when it came
up on the sand, instead of attacking, it would be
attacked with a -303 expanding bullet, for we had
brought the rifle ashore with us. Crack ! — ^and again !
One great thrash of its tail, a convulsive quivering, and
that was the end of this fish tiger.

By straining and tugging inch by inch, having now
been joined by Robbie and the boy from the yacht,
we managed to work it on to the beach, where we photo-
graphed it, together with its intended victim.^

I mentioned previously in this book the danger of
standing or floating in waters where sharks abound, and
here was a definite illustration of how easily a tragedy
might happen. It is not an isolated instance. Only
a very short time after this one of a party who had come
over to Morro Island on a picnic was wading on the
sand-spit which joins it with Taboga. This bar is only
about 100 to 130 yards long, bare at low water, but
covered about 4 feet at high tide. He was standing
still, and having on a bathing costume, his white legs
beneath the water were evidently a tempting bait.
Suddenly several natives, who are nearly always to be
found here, started shouting and shrieking in their
native tongue that a shark was coming towards him.
He quickly realised his danger, and frantically made for
dry land. This fish, which was one of the tiger-shark
species, then literally dashed after him, almost hurling
itself on the beach in its mad endeavour to seize its
prey, and he only escaped by the skin of his teeth.

One could go on giving similar instances, such as that
of a Naval man, close inshore off the island of Otoque,
about IS miles away, who shortly before this had one
of his legs severed completely just below the knee and
died before he could get medical attention.

My advice to all visitors to the tropics is this — ^always
remember not to stand or float in waters which are
known to contain sharks. This injunction should be
religiously remembered.

^ Photograph faces page 196.

A BATTLE-ROYAL i9S

After the exciting time we had passed through, I
do not think any of us wanted to do any more fishing,
so we idled away the rest of the day, and afterwards
returned to Taboga to relate our experiences as a warn-
ing to all. Typaldos agreed with me that if anybody
had written up an incident like this for his newspaper he
would have hardly liked to publish it, so fantastic
would the story appear ; but I know we had been given
a lesson that none of us will ever forget.

Before Baxter and Typaldos returned to Panama
we caught some more fish, and I know by what they
wrote after their return that never before had they
fully realised the mysteries of the deep and the strange
life that dwelt therein. It also gave them an insight
into the dangers and hard work connected with this
branch of fishing, which only their personal experience
could have brought home to them.

I was very sorry when they went back, for they had
proved real companions and equally good sportsmen ;
and, as I said before, our being together on these trips
was the commencement of a friendship which I hope
will always continue.

CHAPTER VII

MY LINES ARE SMASHED UP — ^ANOTHER FIGHT WITH A
BIG SHOVEL-NOSE — MY RIGHT LEG NEARLY LOST

Three days after Baxter and Typaldos had left I got
two more big shovel-nose sharks — a. male and a female.
One weighed nearly 1,200 pounds, and the other just
over a thousand. Before we had finished fighting them,
got them attached to our stem capstan and towed back
to Taboga, it was nearly dark, so I beached them in a
little cove quite close to the hotel, tying them up securely
with a three-quarter-inch rope, but, like an idiot, forgot
the tide was not fully in, and that, naturally, when it
rose they would be quite covered.

Next morning, arriving to commence the usual
autopsy, I found to my amazement one had completely
disappeared, the rope being severed as if cut by a razor,
while the other had been bitten completely in two close
up to the head. This is another instance of how these
ihighty fish come right close in to the shore and devour
their prey ; and it shows too that in these waters you
can never afford to be careless. Many times I had
myself waded about in this little cove, never imagining
that big fish would come in here.

Where my two sharks had been torn to pieces was
quite close to the pontoon, so towards evening it occurred
to me to try running out the shark-lines from there, and
about 5,30 p,m. I started fishing, I first ran out a
couple that I used for catching sand-sharks, the bait
being red snappers, weighing about S pounds each. It
was not long before I had a strike. I picked up the line,
first letting it run through my hands, and hauling back,
drove the hook well home, to be almost shot into the

196

196 ]

SHARK THAT CAUSED THE TROUBLE (p 200).
Weight, 1,200 lb.

LADY BROWN, MR TYPALDOS, AND ROBBIE, WITH THE SHARK THAT NEARLY
CAUSED A TRAGEDY (p 194)

196]

TWO SHOVEL-NOSE SHARKS (p 196).
Weights, 1,200 Piid 1,000 lb.

LINES ARE SMASHED UP 197

water immediately. I let go the line like lightning,
for I knew by the terrific rush I was not fast into
a sand-shark. Out ripped the slack. I had fastened
the end of the line to a bolt-ring. When its end was
reached — ^twang 1 — ^it snapped as if it was a piece of
cotton. I need not comment on what force it requires
to break a virtually new quarter-inch manilla line !
This will give a slight idea what the strength of a big
fish is like.

Within five minutes the second line began to dis-
appear. I felt it gingerly, after the experience I had
just had, being a little uncertain whether it was a sand-
shark or not. It was not, so I let the line go until it
came up with a jerk, being also fastened to the bolt-
ring. I quite expected the same thing to happen as
with the other, but though submitted to tremendous
tension, it held valiantly. I was all alone at the time,
and could do simply nothing in the way of playing the
fish, so leaving it to its own devices, I went and hunted
out Robbie, who, as usual when he had nothing to do,
was playing craps — ^i.e. pitching dice — with other sons
of sunset. He came down with me and between us
we did the best we could.

It must have been quite an hour and a half, and was
pitch dark before we beached that fish. I was amazed
to find it was a sand-shark after all, but it weighed well
over $00 pounds. This time I did not make the mistake
of leaving it in the shallow water, where during the night
other sharks would get it, but with the help of one or
two others, hauled it up on the beach.

The next day we made up our minds to explore the
island, and as Robbie had nothing to do I let him have
three of my lines to fish with. By this time he had
become quite as keen as we were. I exhorted him not
to go out in a boat by himself or do anything foolish
like that, but to fish from the pontoon, where, if neces-
sary, he could get help; so we went off and spent the
day wandering about the island znS its shores on one
of our collecting expeditions. .When we returned.

198 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

this black “ scoundrel ” met us with the most lugubrious
expression that I think I have ever seen on a human
countenance.

“ What’s the matter ? ” I enquired.

“ Oh, Boss, everything all wrong.”

I at once looked out towards where the yacht was
anchored, imagining that perhaps something had
happened to the boat, but there she was, rolling
gently.

“ What the devil is the matter with you ? ” I en-
quired.

“ All the lines are gone, Boss,” he groaned.

“ Gone where ? ” I asked with some asperity.

” Big fish took them one after the other, Boss —
smashed all three off the pontoon.”

How I wished to goodness I had never let him go
fishing ! Losing the lines at this rate, it looked
as if I should soon have to go to Balboa and get fresh
tackle. As far as I was concerned, that finished my
ambition to use my lightest shark-lines in this particular
spot.

We always anchored our yacht in the little sandy bay,
6 o or 70 yards out off the end of the dock. Some friends
of ours, Mrs. Taylor and her little son Surse, had come
over from Colon, so we spent most of the following
day with them, and in the afternoon, not having much
to do, I thought I would go out and try fishing off the
boat. I put off alone in the dinghy, got on board, and,
fishing with a sand-shark line, soon caught one of these
fish. Bearing in mind the episode of Robbie losing the
three lines the evening before, and having plenty of bait,
I thought I would have a turn wnth one of the big lines,
more for something to do than anything else. I had
not stopped to think how, being quite alone, I should
manage if I hooked a big fish — ^and big fish were there
all right, for very shortly the slack began to disappear
off the deck. Usually I am most careful, but this was
one of my absent-minded days. I struck — ^an asinine
thing to do— on the heavy tackle.

LINES ARE SRIASHED UP 199

As the fish felt the hook it made a violent plunge.
My legs shot from under me and my head hit the deck
with a terrific crack. Mercifully I was not entangled in
the now out-rushing line, which jerked up on the capstan
with a thud that quivered the yacht. The shock had
almost stunned me, and when I staggered to my feet
once more I began to wonder what the devil I should do.
I tried hauling on the taut line — quite uselessly ; but
after straining ahead for some time the fish suddenly
swam straight back in towards the boat, and, taking
advantage of this manoeuvre, I regained a considerable
amount of line, to which I then gave two turns round the
capstan, thus restricting the movements of my friend
somewhere down in the depths.

This fish was indeed a fighter, but after dashing and
plunging wildly on the now shortened line, unexpectedly
the chain over the bow of the yacht rattled violently,
while the line became quite slack, I went to the bow
and looked over the side. There about 1 5 feet below
the surface, I saw that the huge brute had swum round
and round it, and its enormous strength had actually
tom the anchor from the bottom, so that the yacht
was adrift. I was completely helpless. I called as
loudly as 1 could, expecting help from the shore. No-
body, apparently, had noticed the struggle that had
been going on ; but now I saw little Surse Taylor and a
boy friend of his, paddling out to me in a ca3ruca. They
got on board; but although we all three did our best
the task of disentangling the line from the chain was
hopeless. The fish was tugging savagely below the
whole time. Looking over the side, the three of us
could distinctly see it biting madly in an elfort to rid
itself of the &mly embedded hook. The boys were
shouting and wildly waving their arms to attract at-
tention, and I was glad to see four men put off in a boat to
come to what had really become a rescue. With their
help we commenced to unwind the end of the line from
round the chain — goodness knows how many times the
shark had circled this, but it certainly seemed a never-

200 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

ending job, and during the time it took we had steadily-
drifted out into deep water. Robbie on shore had now
also seen our plight, and came out. With our combined
efforts the shark, which was now exhausted, was ulti-
mately brought alongside, to be finished off by the rifle,
and after fastening it to the stern of the boat we started
up the engine, and once more moored our boat in the
usual place.

We made quite a procession towing that fish ashore.
The rope round it was first taken by the men in the boat,
passed on to Robbie in his, then on to me in the dinghy,
and finally to the two bo3^ in their cayuca, for they
refused to be left out of the fun. When beached it
proved to be another shovel-nose, weighing between
1,150 and 1,200 pounds, and nearly 13 J feet in length.
Although the four men who helped me catch it had
planned to return to Panama that night, they all stayed
over so that they could have their photograph taken
with it the following day.

I think there must have been a curse on that after-
noon's fishing, for directly attributable to the capture of
this shark, the most serious accident that I have ever
met with in tropical seas befell me. After dissecting
my fish, I was always very careful to have the entrails,
carcase, etc., towed well out, for the simple reason that
it would only be a question of a few hours in the humid
heat before decomposition set in, and a great bulk of
flesh rotting in the sun would fill the air for a long way
round with an appalling stench. On this occasion,
having finished my work, I was hauling the liver (which
floats) out into the shallow water, so that it might
drift away. Young Taylor and his friend had meantime
been watching with great interest the cutting open of
the fish they had helped to capture. As previously
stated, I only wore shorts out here, my legs being quite
bare. I had dragged the liver into the sea, with the
water about reaching to my knees, and was just letting
it go when I felt a stab, followed by an acute shooting
pain. I called out to the boy* that something had

FIGHT WITH BIG SHOVEL-NOSE 201

struck me in the leg. The little chaps thought it was a
shark and were awfully concerned, but I knew it was
not. I quickly got to the beach, and looked at the calf
of my leg where I had been struck. Beyond a small
puncture I could see nothing, but took the precaution
of at once bathing the spot with hot water and painting
it with iodine.

I now commenced to suffer the greatest pain, my leg
swelling rapidly — so much so that when I attempted
to remove my shoes, the agony was so acute that the
one on the foot of the bad leg had to be cut off. The
swelling proceeded upwards to the groin, the glands
of which also became affected. The pain crept up the
right side and the glands under the arm became enlarged.
All through the night I suffered intensely, and in the
morning was virtually paralysed down the whole of
my right side. I was utterly unable to move, and Lady
Brown went to Balboa in the yacht to fetch a doctor,
who was able, however, to do very little. Where the
calf of the leg had been punctured there was now a vivid
orange patch, with an outer circle of angry inflammation.
For the next few -days I experienced Hades — ^the orange
patch turned a deep purple and the inflammation
spread from foot to knee. It began to look as -if I
were going to lose my leg, but slowly the swelling in
the glands under the arm and groin commenced to
subside, and an awful, never-ceasing throbbing centred
in my calf, and I quickly realised that an abscess
was forming.

By the application of hot fomentations literally day
and night, it ultimately came to a head, and I shall pass
over what I finally went through when the doctor lanced
it. It was over three weeks from the time I was struck
before I was able to put my foot to the ground again,
and I considered I got off lightly.

Beyond question, the fish that had caused all this
trouble was a very small sting-ray. I recollected after-
wards I had noticed off the pontoon a day or two before
this happened several of them moving along the bottom,

202

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

but being so small — ^possibly 12 or 14 inches long — I had
not bothered about them.

This was yet another example of the dangers of
tropical waters. If a small specimen was so poisonous
as to affect a man in the pink of condition in this way,
what would have happened to a child ?

CHAPTER VIII

THE PEARL ISLANDS — ^FIVE HOURS* BATTLE WITH A
SAND-SHARK

It was shortly after this that we determined to run out
to the Pearl Islands, situated in the Pacific about 50
miles from Panama City and 45 miles from Taboga.
This curious group of islands and banks has long been
the centre of an extensive pearl-fishing industry, and
some really beautiful pearls are obtained from the
oysters here, one found early in 1923 being valued at
over £20,000. The principal islands in this group are
Rey, Pedro Gonzales, and San Jos6, with innumerable
smaller ones dotting the sea in the vicinity. All around
here magnificent fishing is to be had. Anybody going out
in a motor-boat and trolling a couple of lines behind
can always get at least 500 pounds of good-eating fish
in a day, and it is not exceptional to find the bag run
to well over a thousand pounds. As usual with ocean
fishing, there is the drawback of bad weather suddenly
coming up. The navigation, too, is very dangerous,
tides running strongly, and unexpected rocks rising
from the sea needing ceaseless vigil while one is at the
wheel. Possibly the finest ^ound of all for the fishing
is the San Jose Bank, situated east-south-east of
Cocos Point, the most southerly extremity of Rey
Island. The sea here nearly always presents a most
remarkable sight — ^vast quantities of fish as far as
the eye can reach smashing the surface, while porpoises
and dolphins and frequently large schools of whales
come right close to the boat. It is really a most
interesting spectacle to see ten or twelve of the
latter, huge mammals, rising to the surface, blowing

203

204 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

their steam-like jets into the air ; and anyone lucky
enough to see the cows pla3dng with their young will
never forget the sight — ^their clumsy antics are most
ridiculous. They seem to toss their progeny clear of
the water every now and again with their mammoth
tails. Sharks are also here in abundance, but it is
while one’s attention is momentarily distracted by these
interesting details that the ever-lurking danger of the
hidden rocks becomes a fait accompli.

Early in 1923 a motor-cruiser called the Polaris, with
about eight people on board, proceeded to these islands
for a week-end fishing-trip, and caused great anxiety
by not returning as expected. No news of any sort
was obtainable, so the United States Government sent
out boats to search, and at last the party was located
on one of the smaller islands and taken off. The
Polaris had run on one of the rocks and very shortly
after had disappeared. It was rather a sad case,
because the boat in question was the sole property of
one of the men, and being uninsured, he had to bear the
entire loss.

Probably the best anchorage in this group is at
Saboga, a little island to the extreme north, rising about
250 feet at its highest. There is a most interesting
native village here, the people being very kindly and
hospitable, always willing to help in every way the
adventurer who sails into this place. In this vicinity
I believe (although I have never caught one) is the home
of truly gigantic sword-fish. Many a tale of woe have
I heard from the natives who have lost their tackle by
accidentally hooking one of these big fish, but I have
never yet heard of one being landed, and on the occasion
of my visit here the weather was so vile that to attempt
to fish for them, or anything else, was out of the ques-
tion. In fact, not long after our arrival, climatic con-
ditions were so bad that the primary thought was how
to return. On the first lull in the wind we ran for it
as hard as we could back to the safety of our anchorage
at Taboga, and glad we were, for it blew half a gale

THE PEARL ISLANDS 205

for several days afterwards, to be followed by a dead
calm. We took advantage of this to run out to the
islands of Otoque and Bona — a distance roughly of
1 5 miles from Taboga. These islands are very pictur-
esque, with a splendid spectacle on the ocean side of
Bona — ^mighty Pacific rollers smashing against the
rocky sides and bursting over a hundred feet into the
air. The fishing also leaves nothing to be desired.
There are several quiet places where one can anchor,
and red snappers, yellow-tails, and in fact most fish
indigenous to these waters, can be caught in numbers.

The little village on Otoque, typically Spanish, is
most interesting, as are the people, while one or two
wonderful marine caves, together with the island’s
natural charm, make a visit well worth while. On this
occasion we trolled continuously, catching several fine
jack running up to about 40 pounds each, and prominent
among a bag of about sixteen red snappers was a splendid
specimen weighing 55 pounds — ^altogether a most sporting
day.

After our return to Taboga, before once more going
after the giants, we made' up our minds to see what
fishing with our heaviest rods would yield in the passage
between Urava and Taboga. Anchoring the yacht in
almost the identical place in which we had captured the
huge hammer-head, I rowed out in the dinghy into the
channel. As I previously explained, quite a current
runs through here, and baiting with a nice piece of
Spanish mackerel, as the boat gently drifted I cast out,
letting the tempting lure slowly sink to the bottom, now
and then slowly raising it up and down, creating an
attractive motion. I was getting rather weary of the
monotony when I was rewarded with a smashing strike.
Away went the fish, making for a reef of rocks sub-
merged some distance beneath, and had it not been for
the strength of my tackle, it would have gained its
objective, undoubtedly smashing me up ; but by apply-
ing the brake as hard as I could, I managed to stop
the rush before the danger-zone was reached, -and

206 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

manoeuvred it away into the deeper water. It put up a
splendid fight, and I was presently rewarded by bringing
alongside my cockle-shell of a boat a splendid specimen
of a red snapper, which I ultimately managed to gaff
after considerable difficulty, and get over the side
without, as I had feared, overturning the dinghy.
After rowing back to the yacht it proved to weigh just
over 72 pounds.

“ Come along,” I said. “I’ve schemed another way
to catch the big ones.” Lady Brown did not require
much persuasion to join me after seeing what I had
brought back, and we rowed out to the place where I
had struck the red beauty. While I sat facing the
stern of the dinghy pulling, she sat looking towards me,
turned partly sideways, with the rod pointing behind
her. The bait was exactly the same as I had previously
used, and giving her an idea how to raise it every now
and then lightly in the water at intervals, we drifted
with the tide. A long time elapsed, and nothing
happened, and she was getting tired of holding the
heavy rod.

“ I think the way you caught that fish was a pure
fluke.”

“ Don’t you believe it,” I replied; “I’ve caught one
like it, and there isn’t any reason why we shouldn’t get
another 1 ”

Time went on and there was no sign of a bite.

“ I’ve had en ” she was going to say “ enough,”

but never finished the word. A look almost of horror
came over her face — ^the point of the rod bent over,
and if she had not been gripping it with both hands it
would undoubtedly have been torn from her, as the
brake was on pretty hard. Leaning over I gave it a
few more twists, for the line was being torn off at a
great pace, and I quickly saw the difficulty we were in,
for this' fish was considerably larger than my 72-pound
red snapper. Lady Brown’s cramped position at the
end of the boat made the playing of it extremely
difficult for her.

THE PEARL ISLANDS 207

“ It's almost wrenching my shoulder out ! ” she
gasped ; but I could render no assistance, for any
violent movement in our tiny craft would have resulted
in our turning turtle.

“ Slide into the bottom,” I said, “ and kneel down
facing astern.”

It was easier said than done, but she managed it after
some difficulty. All this time I was backing the boat
as hard as I could in the direction in which the fish
was travelling, but in spite of the heavy brake-pressure,
the line was obviously coming near the end. Working
my hardest I backed harder and harder.

“I’m afraid it’s no use,” she wailed. “ I simply
can’t hold it ; it’s agony in this position.”

“ Whatever you do, hang on for a few minutes,” I
said ; “ we don’t want to lose all that tackle.”

The situation had become desperate. I could see
that she was quite helpless, so, as a last resource, I
pulled the oars in, and using the greatest care, managed
to reach her, relieving her of the rod. Originally there
were 300 yards of 54-thread line on the reel, and there
certainly could not have been more than twenty left
when I took on the fight. Do or die I I jammed the
brake on full strength, gambling everything on the hope
that the line would be strong enough to stand the strain.

Our light craft up till now had been pulled by the
fish stern first, so creeping up forward while she remained
aft, I manoeuvred so that we should be towed by the bow,
after which we were much happier, though the fish was
taking us where it would ; but after over three-quarters
of an hour of this, my back and arms were aching
terribly, so with the utmost caution she crept up and
relieved me of the rod, while I took her place in the
stem.

We neither of us had the faintest idea what this big
fish could be. Four times we repeated the operation
of taking the rod from one another ; over two hours had
passed since first striking into the fish, which still showed
no signs of exhaustion, and by this time we had been

208 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

carried over five miles from the yacht. Many times
we had signalled and shouted to Robbie and the native
on board, but might as well have spared ourselves the
trouble for all the notice that was taken ; they were
apparently quite oblivious of our plight.

We had passed through the channel between Urava
and Taboga, were now out in the main ocean, and soon
the islands cut off omr view from the yacht.

“ What the devil are we going to do ? ” I said. “ I
can’t think why they haven’t seen our predicament
from the boat. Now they won’t be able to see us, and
they’ll probably pull up the anchor and return to
Taboga, thinking we’ve rowed back.”

It was really a most alarming position. Fortunately
there was hardly a ripple on the ocean — only long,
smooth rollers, so we were in no danger of being capsized
by a heavy sea ; but how long the brute we had hooked
into would continue heading for Asia was entirely outside
our knowledge.

Over three hours had passed, and the fish was still
taking us farther out.

“ This can’t go on ! ” I panted. “ If we ever do play
the fish out, we could never tow it back to the yacht. I
think I’d better cut the line.”

” Oh, stick it a bit longer !” begged my companion,
“ After all this time it would be terrible to be beaten.”

“ Yes, but we’re in a rotten position,” I said ; “ neither
of us know what this fish is, nor how much farther it’s
going to tow us, and we’re getting miles away from shore.
If only those idiots on the boat would have the sense
to come and look for us, we’d be all right. I know what’s
happened — ^they’ve gone fast asleep. For the Lord’s
sake take the rod again, and give me a rest — I’m*
whacked ! ”

She did, and after about ten minutes called out :

” It’s weakening ! ” and as she spoke the fish changed
its course, which up till now had been straight out to
sea, and conunenced to swim in a wide circle.

I now took the rod and gave all the butt I possibly

THE PEARL ISLANDS 209

could, then started to pump the fish. Slowly I could
feel that this was having an effect — I was regaining line.
Harder and harder I worked — ^yes, undoubtedly it was
coming in, but flesh and blood could not stand this for
very long, and now it was Lady Brown’s turn again.
Alternately we laboriously sweated at our task — ^yard
after yard of the line was being regained. Suddenly
Lady Brown, who now had the rod, called out :

“ Can you see it ? ”

Sure enough, deep down in the clear water I could see
a huge shape.

“ For Gk)d’s sake don’t reel in any more line,” I cried ;
" we’ve got to cut. We’re fast into a big shark ! If
we get it alongside and it strikes the side of the dinghy
with its tail, it’ll smash it like an egg ; and if that
happens, nothing can save us out here.”

I had no rifle with me — or even a revolver. All we
had was a gaff. The thought of cutting the line after
the fight we’d had was really cruel, but I could see no
alternative.

” Let’s hold it as it is for a little while longer,” pleaded
Lady Brown ; " if I can manage with the rod, you may
be able to row the boat, and get to shore.”

“ Out of the question ! ” I retorted ; ” no human
being in this world could row this dinghy with a fish
that size behind, and in any case you could not hang on
for long. I tell you there’s only one thing to do, and
that’s make up our minds to part with the line.”

We sat arguing and debating over the difficulty. It
really seemed too bad to be beaten like this, especially
after playing the fish to a stand-still. Since first striking
into" it over four hours had elapsed, and we were both
thoroughly exhausted. The heat, too, did not improve
one’s temper, especially when facing the obvious fact
that after all we had gone through our efforts would be
in vain. To see a fresh record on rod and line go west
after actually winning the battle, was enough to irritate
a saint.

Meantime, against all my w’ishes, she had been working
14

310 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

the shark still nearer to the boat. It was now in full
view, and proceeded to give us a taste of what we might
expect if it got any nearer, for sulkily it lunged down-
wards, the sudden pull nearly upsetting us.

“ Don’t be so obstinate,” I said. ” You know as
well as I do that we can’t land this fish. I’m going to
cut the line.”

I took out my knife.

“ Wait ! — ^wait 1 ” she called out excitedly ; ” here
comes the yacht ! ”

Never was I more glad to see anything in my life.
Out from behind Urava, cutting the water at full speed,
came the Cara. We had been missed at last, and they
were searching for us.

I took over the rod, the poor little lady being abso-
lutely all in. I at once let out a few more yards of line
so that the fish might be clear of our little boat, for with
help approaching I knew there was a good chance of
our landing it, and was not taking any risk of a catas-
trophe happening at the last moment. Lady Brown
was waving feebly to the yacht — ^they had evidently
seen us and were bearing down towards us. When they
came alongside we had almost to be lifted to the deck,
so utterly spent were we both, and while the boy fastened
the dinghy astern, Robbie took over the rod. The big
fish appeared not to have a kick left in it, seeming
thoroughly exhausted.

“ Work it to the surface, Robbie, while I fetch my
rifle,” I said. ” Now ease down that brake-pressure on
the wheel, and look out for squalls when I fire — I don’t
want to make a mess of things at this stage of the game.”

Smash 1 the bullet tore into the base of the skull.
The shark plunged downwards in a death-dive, to be
slowly worked to the surface again, feebly quivering,

” Now give me the rod,” I said, ” and you and the
other boy get the gaff, and that pole with the iron hook.
Drive them well home, then work the fish to the stem,
and fasten it on to the capstan as usual.”

This was easily done, I cut the line off short at the

211

THE PEARL ISLANDS

wire lead, leaving the hook in the mouth, and away we
went back to Taboga, towing the carcase behind us.

I went down, to the cock-pit, to find Lady Brown,
now the excitement was over, stretched out, completely
prostrate. And I followed her example. It had taken
over five hours from the time of first striking the fish
to the time it was ultimately despatched and fastened
to the stern of the yacht.

When we arrived home we were both too worn out
to take much interest in the fish we had captured. I
gave directions for it to be beached, and we went ashore.
We were both feeling as if we had been beaten all over —
there was not a muscle in our bodies that did not ache.
For sheer brutal exercise I know nothing that can
compare with playing a big fish on a rod and line.
There is no doubt it is a little too strenuous, and can
cause serious organic injury, for the strain on the heart
is tremendous.

Next day, though stiff and sorry for ourselves, we
went to the beach to have a look at what we had caught,
and it was not till then that I discovered what had
happened to Robbie and the native that they had not seen
our plight. As I had surmised, they had both gone fast
asleep. We had gone through it with the shark the
day before, and now they went through it from us I
On examining the creature that had given us this
terrific fight, it proved to be a sand-shark, but much
larger than any I had yet seen — in fact, I did not know
they ran to this size. It weighed no less than 620 pounds,
and on opening it, I discovered it was badly diseased.
There is no doubt that if it had not been for this fact,
we could never have landed it on rod and line. The
whole time we were out here, we never got a larger one,
and whenever we look at the vertebrae and jaws they will
always bring back memories of the hours we were towed
and the desperate plight we were in.

For a few days after this we both had to go easy, as
we were so stiff we could hardly use our limbs. '

“ I’ve had enough of the rod and line,” I said. "

It's

212

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

too much ” : and Lady Brown heartily agreed with me.
I found the strain had once more affected my health
and had to go to Panama to be medically treated — ^my
heart was again giving me considerable trouble. The
pumping and extra blood-pressure caused by hours of
strenuous exercise had produced what is known as
athletic heart, which I believe means there is a limit
to what that usually willing organ can stand, and
continual violent exertion causes it to lose its regular
beat, which becomes intermittent. The doctors after
examination once more impressed on me that I must
take it easy, and that the human frame could not endure
what I expected of it. The same remarks applied to
Lady Brown, who had accompanied me to the clinic, so
we made up our minds to stop all operations for a time
until we were thoroughly rested.

CHAPTER IX

AN ISLAND BLACK WITH BIRDS OUR FIRST EXPERIENCES

WITH THE HARPOON

It is extraordinary how, after a day or two’s enforced
idleness, the lust of battle returns to you when you
are a piscatorial enthusiast and are in waters which you
know are teeming with worthy game ; but we were
strong and refused to be tempted, and idled the time
away, running out to various islands, where we basked
on the sands. We found out that about 20 miles from
Taboga there was a beautiful little bay on the mainland
into which the Chame River ran, and we determined to
examine this thoroughly ; so at daybreak one morning
we ran past Melones — ^the scene of the narrowly averted
tragedy — crossing the broad stretch of main ocean
between here and our goal. It is very difficult to see
the entrance to this little bay, and we very nearly ran
on a sand-bar in our efforts to locate it, which in the end
we successfully did. Banks of pure white sand slope
down to the water’s edge, and running up what is really
the broad mouth of the river, we dropped anchor about
50 yards from the beach and went ashore in the dinghy.
Here we found a wonderful lot of shells, totally different
from any we had yet seen, but the blaze of heat striking
up off the nearly red-hot sand was terrific. Although
my feet had become as tough as leather, I found it
impossible to walk without shoes. We spent some time
in searching here, and returning on board, made up
our minds to visit the opposite shore, where towards
the mouth is a little sandy island, and behind this we
dropped anchor.

The weather looked very threatening in the distance.

214 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

and by the time we had finished our food, away to the
east the clouds stretched black as ink.

“ I don’t think we’d better start back,” I said, ” until
we see what’s coming.”

There were innumerable sea-birds in the neighbour-
hood, and for over an hour we were able to witness a
most remarkable sight. There is no question but that
an acute sense is possessed by the birds in this part of
the world. We observed that they were gradually con-
gregating on the little island behind which we were
sheltering, persistently arriving in flocks great and small.
We noticed that single birds continually left, fl3dng off
to be lost in the distance, and I cannot help thinking
they were acting as guides or messengers to bring in all
their outlying kith and kin. Cormorants, pelicans, gulls
— ^faster and faster they gathered, skimming in across the
water from every direction. The numbers on the island
had now grown from thousands to hundreds of thou-
sands, and still they came.

” There’s trouble coming,” I said. ” The intuition
of these birds is never wrong — ^they’re sheltering here
in the lee of the island because they know there’s a great
storm brewing.”

All this time the blue-black mass was slowly advancing
towards us, yet where we were the sun still shone brilli-
antly. It was a wonderful sight to see this wall advanc-
ing, broken all the while by streaks of lightning, and
now, apart from the warning our feathered friends had
given us, the merest child could have seen we were in
for a real ripsnorter.

” Run out the other anchor, Robbie — I’ll feel much
happier,” and this done, we waited for what was coming,
making up our minds to remain, if necessary, all night
where we kney^ we were safe. The sun had now become
totally obscured, and a heavy silence, broken only by
distant thunder, settled ominously over everything. In
the meantime the little island had become so crowded
with birds that there was hardly standing-room — ^they
were jammed tight right down to the water’s edge, and

EXPERIENCES WITH THE HARPOON 215

even in the shallow water. Their arrival in ever-in-
creasingly large flocks was continuous, and now we could
see about s miles away a wall of water approaching,
stretching from the heavens to the sea. It was just
like an impenetrable curtain. Even at this distance
one could hear the roaring of its fall — ^louder and louder
the noise grew. The darkness was now as if night were
approaching.

With a crash the avalanche of water burst on us —
the noise was absolutely deafening — ^the whole world
seemed to go mad. The little island with the birds,
although not more than 30 or 40 yards away, was entirely
blotted out. Up to now scarcely a breath of wind had
ruffled the water — a most unusual occmrence ; but it
was not to remain long like this, for hard on the heels
of the downpour the howling blast swept upon us. I
was indeed glad we had put out the second anchor,
for the little yacht was straining as if she must wrench
free, to be blown helter-skelter whither the elements
willed. With a startling suddenness the wind passed,
as did much of the heavy rain, and we were now treated
to a grand pyrotechnic display, the blue-black skies
being rent and torn in every direction by vivid flashes
of lightning, while the boom of the thunder seemed
almost to shake the hills. I can conceive no finer
spectacle than the awful majesty of a tropical thunder-
storm. It is a demonstration of raging elements which
has to be seen to be fully understood. The birds, which
we could now dimly see again, looking almost like a solid
mass on the island, had made no mistake in their
premonition of what was coming, and I was indeed truly
thankful we were not out at sea on our way home. The
wind seemed to sweep down on one in waves, with a
calm in between each, though the greatest force was
when it first struck us in its hurricane passage.

The thunder and lightning must have lasted for over
two hours before eastward the black wall seemed to part,
a patch of blue sky appearing just as if one were looking
from deep in the interior of a cavern out through the

2I6 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

entrance. The heavens shortly became quite clear of
all cloud ; rolling astern, the impenetrable wall of
blackness passed on. The birds seemed thoroughly
subdued, but when the sun shone out again, they shook
themselves a few times, and then flew away to continue
their interrupted search for food ; and it was not long
before we followed suit, getting up the anchors and
starting off back to Taboga. There was quite a sea
running, the aftermath of the heavy squalls, and no
sooner had we left the shelter of the river-mouth than
we commenced to pitch heavily, taking water over our
bow ; but this became less as we proceeded steadily
ahead. By the time we were off Melones, night had
fallen with that rapidity always experienced in the
tropics, and as we picked up Taboga Island, we were
treated to that curious optical illusion of appearing to
be almost running ashore, whereas we were probably
half a mile out. On arriving at our headquarters, we
found the people very much perturbed, conjuring up
all sorts of terrible things that they imagined might have
happened to us. They were on the point of getting
through to Balboa to ask the United States Govern-
ment to send out one or two boats in case we might have
been wrecked — ^and we probably should have been had
we been away out in the open sea.

Since I had been warned not to fish with rod and line,
as the undue exertion was playing the devil with my
heart, I made up my mind to devote myself almost
exclusively to fishing with the big hooks for the greater
inhabitants, so once more resumed operations off Tabo-
guilla ; but although during the next two or three weeks
I caught numbers of sand-sharks, from 250 to 350 pounds
in weight, and shovel-nose running up to about 1,000
pounds, my luck was certainly dead out in actually
landing a real monster. Time and again we were dis-
appointed. Quite frequently here off Taboguilla I was
having my lines severed above the chain — one morning
having no less than three mighty strikes, the last actually
towing the 3mcht for over two miles, but each time the

EXPERIENCES WITH THE HARPOON 217

line was cut through, with a resultant loss of hooks
and chains. I was therefore obliged to pay another
visit to the government shops at Balboa for assistance,
and to the new hooks they now made me I had longer
chains forged.

For some time I had wondered what on earth it could
be that was severing the lines like this. I could not
bring myself to believe that it was always sharks, be-
cause the movements of the last fish that had towed
us in its struggles to escape were quite unlike anything
I had yet struck. It was only by finding out from the
natives on Taboga that colossal saw-fish were reputed
to inhabit our favourite fishing-water that I had an idea
that they might be the cause of the trouble.

A day or two later a native came to see me, and asked
me if I would like to catch one of these saw-fish. No
need to record my reply. It was explained to me that
there was only one way to do this. The combination
necessary was a harpoon, dead low water, and no wind.
There was one man, it appeared, in the village who was
an expert at this sort of work and possessed everything
necessary. Presently the old chap arrived in his flat-
bottomed boat (called a panga), and we went down to
have a look at his outfit.

A mangrove pole about 18 feet in length was fitted
into the iron socket of the harpoon, and held in place
by a half-inch manilla rope hitched round the top of
the steel, pulled tight from here straight up the pole,
and again hitched round the latter about 2 feet from the
top. The end of the line, about 200 feet in length, was
fastened round the forward seat of the panga. It was
explained to me why it was only possible to go after
these fish at dead low water and with no wind — ^the
saw-fish were close inshore, and on the ebb tide lay in a
depth of only about 12 feet. If there was any ripple,
it was impossible to see them lying on the bottom ; but
if quite calm, by letting the boat drift gently over the
locality where they lay, they could be plainly observed.
The pole attached to the harpoon was then gripped, and

21 8 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

plunged down through the water, the iron entering deep
into the body. The violent lunge and rush of the fish
caused the pole to become detached from the iron socket,
which remained in the fish with the rope hitched round
it. The monster thereupon would proceed to tow the
panga until finally exhausted, after which it was thought
it could be beached, especially as I had a yacht, which
might also be needed to come to the rescue in case of
overturning or being attacked by an infuriated fish.

As we listened to these explanations, we conjured up
fresh records, and were all eagerness to be off. The
next day being fortunately favourable, away we went,
towing our dinghy and the panga behind. Our harpoon
expert had given us to understand that it would require
four natives besides ourselves to tackle these giants, so
we now numbered eight in all, which I imagined would
be ample for any possible emergencies. We were both
looking forward greatly to our day.

I now felt certain I had solved the problem of my cut
lines. I believed that I had actually hooked some of
these fish. The mouth, as will be seen from the photo-
graphs, is situated a long way back from the curious saw-
like protuberance, and I surmise that the backward
and forward smashing of the latter explained the parting
that occurred in the stout manilla rope above the chain.

Our first experience after the saw-fish was doomed to
disappointment. Although we drifted and paddled in
ideal weather conditions, not a sign of a fish could we
see ; but on an inquisitive shovel-nose shark approach-
ing close to us, I had a demonstration of how this
method of fishing worked.

The native expert, standing upright and balancing
himself on the bow of the boat, ably seconded by th?
dexterous manipulation of the boatman, crept up to the
slowly moving dark shape, which appeared thoroughly
unconcerned and disdainful, and raising the pole high
in the air, suddenly dashed it down through the water.
He knew the steel had been driven well home in the
creature, and jumped hack with surprising agility,

EXPERIENCES WITH THE HARPOON 219

squatting down in the bottom before the line, which was
rushing out, reached the end, where it was fastened to the
seat of the panga. With a jerk that nearly hurled one
backwards, off we went. We had two rowers in the
boat, and they both backed heavily on their oars, but
in spite of this, with a curl of foam from the bow of
the little flat-bottomed craft, away we shot. The
excitement was tremendous, and I wondered if a fish
of this size, which from the sight I had been able to
obtain of it I judged to weigh about 900 pounds, could
tow the little boat at this rate, what would happen if
we struck a really big saw-fish, weighing, say, a couple
of thousand pounds, as I understood that this was
quite ordinary — ^in fact, I was informed that the
majority of the monsters here were heavier than that.

Out to sea the fish rushed, the oarsmen backing
water for all they were worth. There was nothing to
be done except hope for the best, and wait till the first
wild struggles had subsided. After half an hour it was
evident that victory was ours — ^slowly but surely we
began to work in towards shore. After running the
boat aground, we aU got out and started to heave on
the line. When beached, it proved to be a male shovel-
nose shark, weighing around 850 pounds, and with-
out waiting for the tide to recede fnUy before opening it,
I at once started my operations. As usual the blood,
etc., floating out, attracted various relatives. So fear-
less are they when enticed by the smell that again in this
instance they came right close in after the carcase,
actually biting at the tail end of it, where the depth
could not have been more than 2 feet. One big fellow
of the sand-shark species was most persistent. Standing
watchful, on a favourable opporttmity presenting itself,
when the fish became too daring, the harpooner drove his
weapon well and truly home. Now we had some fun.
We all held on to the rope like grim death. It smashed
and lashed the water at the end of the tight line, dashing
to right and left, but all to no avail, and presently we
had the satisfaction of hauling it in on the beach. It

230

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

sighed about 4S0 pounds. A few minutes later a
smaUj one was Seated in the same manner and quickli
landed. There is no doubt we could have gone^on id
tnfimtum getting sharks in this wav but I a

would take me the rest of the day to open up tfc
we had, examine them, and remove the vertebr*
jaws, etc. The bodies, I knew, would provide a gorveous
feed when I had finished baiting up the ground and
would attract numbers of the shark family, and tW
ens^e excellent fishing for the next day or two.

My work over, we returned to Taboga, makinf)- nn
our minds to have another try after saw-fish next day^
but on our arrival, contrary to our belief that the carcases
would prove an attraction, the sea appeared deserted!
no saw-fish— not even a sand-shark could be seen How
ever, there was always a to-morrow : if one were certal
each time one went out of getting exactly what one

CHAPTER X

WE HARPOON AND LAND A TON-AND-THREE-QUARTER

SAW-FISH

The two or three subsequent days were unfavourable for
harpooning, so I once more resumed operations with
my big lines, getting another shovel-nose shark, a
magnificent specimen, weighing just over 1,300 pounds,
and on the same day struck a monster fish. I knew
by the tremendous shock and strain on the line that
it was by far the heaviest I had ever smashed into.
On the rope becoming taut, the yacht rode rapidly
ahead, tearing up the anchor, which we hauled in as
quickly as we could. After that we awaited develop-
ments. Round the point of Taboguilla this monster
towed us, and out to sea.

“ By Jove I ” I said. “ This is some fish I We're
heading for the Pearl Islands. If ever we land this
you’ll see a sight that will stagger you ! ”

Lady Brown was intensely excited, for it was indeed a
wonderful experience to be sitting in a 20-ton yacht
towed by an unknown invisible force.

“ I think we've got it firmly hooked this time,” I
said. ” It may take hours, but I believe we’ll get it in
the end.”

I had become rather confident of my heavy tackle,
believing the extra length of chain attached to the hooks
would put an end to the line being severed.

For over two hours this big fish towed us. Time and
again we all gripped the line, but no man--nor twenty
men — could have moved that fish an inch. The rifle
was all ready— one might almost say the decks were

222 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

cleared for action, when at the height of our anticipation
the line dropped slack. It was quite obvious what had
happened — ^the fish had gone !

We pulled in the dangling line and were staggered to
see what I am sure to many will appear past belief. Two
inches from where the eye of the hook was fastened to
the chain, the steel shank was bitten in two. It must
be remembered that this was half-inch spring steel. It
would seem impossible that anything could sever it,
yet we had actually had on some marine leviathan that
had gone through it as easily as if it had been a carrot. I
kept the piece of steel and have shown it to many people.
What the strength of jaw must have been to cut this
through is beyond the imagination. Of course, one knows
what the jaw-power of fish must be when they can sever
a human thigh, shearing through flesh, muscle, and
bone as clean as if cut by a razor. This with an adult
(I believe I am correct in saying) requires a pressure of
not less than one and a quarter tons, but to cut through
flesh and bone is totally different from biting through
half-inch spring steel. Once more I was brought face
to face with the almost irresistible strength of the
monsters of the deep.

Mr. Van Campen Heilner, in his book The Call of the
Surf, describes how a heavy lead squid was bitten clean
in half in this fashion about 12 to 14 miles off the Jersey
coast by a tuna. It must be remembered that through
the centre of the lead there would be the steel shank of
tKe hook, so here once again is a demonstration of the
almost unthinkable force of the great denizens’ biting
powers. Certainly there is nothing on land to-day
that can equal it.

, In the Essequibo River, and one or two other rivers
in South America, a fish called the perai is so tremen-
dously strong of jaw that although only 18 inches to
2 feet in length, it can sever a dog's leg. No cattle can
swim the rivers where these voracious fish are, and
there are records of men who have fallen out of a boat
having the flesh so torn firom their legs that, though

WE HARPOON AND LAND SAW-FISH 223

their rescue would be only a question of a few minutes,
they were dead before they could be lifted out of the
water.

I believe that fine sportsman the late Theodore
Roosevelt encountered these fish in his exploration of
the upper reaches of the Amazon. What strange life
the waters hold ! Can there be anj^thing more curious
than the electric eel, that on contact produces its stunning
effect — or the electric ray — ^both inhabitants of this
part of the liquid globe ?

The loss of the fish in this unprecedented way was
certainly a rude shock to my belief in my big tackle ;
but, engaged in a work of discovery as we were, per-
severance had always to be our motto. Nothing
daunted, a day or two later we again went after saw-
fish. Anchoring the yacht as usual, we entered the
panga, which we always had to tow with us, as it was
impossible to search for these fish without it. Reaching
the locality where they should be, we proceeded to drift,
looking eagerly over the side through the clear water,
in the hope of seeing a shape outlined on the bottom.
Suddenly the harpooner, who was standing up in the
bow, called out in Spanish :

“ Back water 1 ”

Excitedly he then cried :

“ Pull ahead hard 1 ”

As our little craft shot forward, down went the long
pole with its sharp steel weapon, plunged with his full
strength towards the bottom. Momentarily I noticed
that about 2 feet of the wood remained above the surface
before, with a terrific rush, the line was tearing over
the bow of the panga. There were four of us in the
little boat, and seizing the rope, we expended our utmost
strength to ease the shock before the end was reached,
fearing the seat to which it was tied would be tom out
with a wrench. The boat suddenly shot ahead so
violently as to fling tis all backwards on the bottom.
Two of the natives immediately got out the oars and
started to pull as hard as they could in the opposite

224 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

direction to the one in which we were travelling. In
bad Spanish I asked :

" What are we fast in ? ”

" Large saw-fish,” was the reply.

I signalled to the yacht to start the engine up, so
that they could follow us and render assistance if
necessary.

Travelling at well over 6 knots an hour, the fish passed
the rocky promontory, and now swam strongly in the
direction of Flamenco Island, but soon changed its
mind, and, as we could not help ourselves, we followed.
In a semicircle it travelled, and now looked as if it
was- making for Taboga . It continued in this direction
for some time, when once more it altered its course
and proceeded almost straight back to where we had
struck it. Arriving there, it at once started to sulk,
hugging the bottom, nor could we dislodge it. We
pulled and hauled together on the rope, but it made not
the least impression — ^it refused to budge. There was
only one thing to do — ^if the fish could play a waiting
game, so could we.

After half an hour it commenced once more to swim
slowly towards the shore. I suggested that if the yacht
came alongside, we might pass the line up, and fasten
the end of it round the capstan, and reverse our engines
against the fish, but at once discarded the idea, realising
that a pull like this would probably tear the harpoon
out.

Alternately swimming and sulking, the fish was now
only about 30 yards from the beach. We hauled the
boat up short on the rope, until the huge brute was
plainly visible only a few yards ahead of us, flush with
the bottom. We had now plenty of slack line on
board.

” Try rowing ashore I ” I cried, " and fasten the end
of the line round one of the big rocks ! ”

Here these rose up in pinnacles to the water's edge,
intersected by minute sandy bays. This done, we all
jumped out, and quickly tied the end securely.

WE HARPOON AND LAND SAW-FISH 225

Lady Brown, Robbie, and my other boy now left
the anchored yacht in the dinghy and joined us, and
we all commenced to haul slowly — ^foot by foot —
nearer and nearer, when presently clear of the water rose
the extraordinary weapon with which this fish is armed.
At last we could get it no closer, so, fastening the line
taut, we proceeded to wait for the tide to ebb. There
was no further fight in the creature, which remained
almost motionless, and as the water receded and the
hideous head became visible, I smashed home two
bullets, aiming for where I thought the heart must be.
The brute gave one convulsive lunge, while a fountain
of blood rose about 6 feet in the air from the bullet-
holes. A few seconds after, it reared up, making a
peculiar loud grunt — ^then came a terrific smash with
its saw, after which it showed no further signs of life.

Later, when we could examine it thoroughly, it proved
a weird-looking creature, measuring 24 ^ feet in length
and 17I feet in girth, and weighing if tons.i As usual,
I spent the rest of the day in opening it, removing the
saw in its entirety, and examining the inside. My
bullet had found the heart all right, tearing it to pieces,
causing what must have been instantaneous death ;
the way it rose up and struck down after being shot
must undoubtedly have been caused by muscular
contraction.

The vertebrae of this fish showed a decided difference
from that of the shark, being of most peculiar con-
struction, and the removal required much greater care,
and presented difficulties that made similar operations
on sharks seem child’s play. However, it was ulti-
mately accomplished, and when removed, the spine
alone required two men to carry it.

The jaws of this fish have no teeth, and for a long
time I was left much in doubt as to what its natural
food consisted of. To a certain extent I subsequently
discovered. The capture of this fish had seemed to
me a comparatively simple operation — ^much easier, in

^ Photograph, faces page 230.

15

2 z 6 battles with giant fish

fact, than the fish we had encountered on the lines.
We all discussed this, and the natives seemed much
surprised at how little-fight this one had put up, especi-
ally as it was a male of the species.

In course of conversation with the natives they gave
me to understand that as a rule there was considerable
danger in going after these big saw-fish. Only a year
previously a boatman, having harpooned one, became
entangled in the line as it rushed out, being torn out
of the boat, and carried beneath the surface ; and had
it not been for the almost superhuman feat of severing
the rope with a knife that he carried in his belt whilst
being pulled along under water, that unquestionably
would have been the last of him.

They also told me many tales of how these creatures
could overturn a boat with ease, while the striking force
of their saw was simply tremendous. This I could
well believe, if they put up a big fight ; but after seeing
the tactics of the one we had just caught, I could not
help wondering if they ever did put up a really strenuous
battle.

CHAPTER XI

THE BRITISH CONSUL AND HIS WIFE HAVE THE FIGHT OF
THEIR LIVES — HIS EXCELLENCY THE PRESIDENT
SEES TWO AND THREE-QUARTER TONS OF FISH
LANDED

The following week-end we were joined by the British
Consul, William Ewing, and his wife, who, being greatly
interested in the reports of the big fish we had been
capturing, came over to Taboga to join us on one of
our expeditions, hoping to take part in the capture of
something really large ; so we all left early on the
Saturday morning, buoyed with expectation.

Having anchored the yacht, and had the sand-shark
lines run out, Lady Brown and I sat back to watch the
fun. Very shortly the Consul’s line began to go off.
I carefully explained to him to let it run through his
fingers without resistance.

“ Now tighten, William, and haul hard 1 ” I shouted.

He did, and got the shock of his hfe. I had forgotten
he was not wearing leather gloves, and the language
used by this representative of his Majesty’s Govern-
ment could not have been called diplomatic 1 The wild
enthusiasm of excitement, however, caused by a big
fish on the line cannot be damped by a skinned hand,
and although he was suffering considerably, he hung on
like grim death ; but it was impossible for him to stop
the fish until it had run the full length of the line,
when after it had struggled and fought for some time,
he commenced to work it in towards the boat. None
of us rendered him any aid, as I particularly wanted
him to catch his first big one alone, so that afterwards
he could truthfully say he had landed it without any

228 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

help, and this he did. After despatching it with a rifle
and getting it on deck, we found it weighed round
310 pounds, and Ewing was hugely excited. I do not
think he had every imagined he would catch such a
fish in his life.

During all this time nothing had happened to Mrs.
Ewing’s line, so I pulled it in to examine the bait, which
I found had entirely disappeared. I certainly had not
seen any movement, and although she had been holding
it in her hands, she said she had not felt the slightest
sign of a bite, yet something had entirely removed the
6-pound Spanish mackerel which I had impaled on the
hook. I baited it up afresh for her, and once more out
it went, after which I proceeded to remove the jaws and
vertebrae from her husband’s fish, so that he could
preserve them as trophies, and doubtless one day,
when peacefully settled in England, after the manner
of all true sportsmen he will tell wonderful stories to
admiring friends of “ how it was done ! ”

“ I’ve got a bite ! ” suddenly called out Mrs. Ewing.

“ Drop the line ! ” I shouted ; “ don’t try and stop
it 1 ” for I did not want her to get her hands in the
same condition as her husband’s (I am always solicitous
for ladies’ welfare !).

The slack whizzed off the deck, never stopping until
it jerked up short when the end was reached.

“ Now' see if you can haul on it,” I said to her.

Mrs. Ewing is possessed of considerable muscular
strength, and I think she expected to pull that fish in
hand over hand, thereby gloating over her husband, but
oh, what an awakening 1 She commenced to pull —
harder and still harder, the perspiration trickling down
her face. I really think she was getting annoyed as
we all began to laugh. Her husband, as an expert,
now commenced to give her sage advice, much to her
indignation. I was becoming very curious, for the fish
on the end of the line was certainly not behaving like a
sand-shark.

” Let me feel it,” I said to her ; but it was not till

THE BRITISH CONSUL 239

I bent down and got a grip on her line that I realised
the tremendous strain that was being imposed on it.

“ Ewing ! ” I called out, “ if your wife lands this fish
she’ll have the laugh of you for ever, for the one you’ve
just caught is a midget beside it. Heaven knows what
she’s hooked, but it’s no sand-shark ! ”

I tried to move it, but it was useless. Lady Brown
and Mr. and Mrs. Ewing now came to help me, and all
four of us commenced to pull, but our efforts were quite
unavailing.

“ You’d better get the anchor up,” I said to Robbie,
" start the engine as quick as you can, and go slowly
ahead, or the line’s going to burst,” and in a few seconds
we glided slowly ahead, thus somewhat relieving the
tension.

Meanwhile the fish was swimming steadily deep down.

“ Ewing,” I said, ” if we land this fish, it’ll not be
the least use your telling people about your 300-pounder,
because when your wife commences, and shows the
photographs of this one, you’ll not have a look in I ”

“ Ah, my boy,” he answered, “ I’ve found that out
long ago ! ”

We shook hands with feeling — personally I was
thinking of the episode of Lady Brown and myself on
the pontoon, when I certainly didn’t get the last word !

What a dogged fight that fish put up I In spite of
our united efforts, it was at least an hour and a half
before we gained sight of it. Mrs. Ewing was in a
great state of excitement — I really forget what she
was ping to do to her husband if she lost that fish,
and in view of the awful threats, he was outwardly
equally fervent in his hopes that it would not escape,
whatever his secret longings may have been, knowing
that its capture would totally eclipse his.

With hard work it was eventually got alongside the
yacht. It was really a magnificent sight. As it came
to the surface they all looked over the side, and now
the rifle was brought into play. The bullets evidently
reached the heart, for there was one terrific convulsive

230 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

movement, a wave of water burst into the air, and
then there was only a twitching of the tail.

On turning round I now observed a sorry sight. Mr.
and Mrs. Ewing, who were not dressed in the same
fishing attire as Lady Brown and I, were drenched,
blood and water streaming down all over their clothes,
which looked like a futurist nightmare. They had
caught the full force of the wave thrown up by the fish’s
last spasm — but what did it matter ? The battle had
been won, and now we had but to tow our vanquished
opponent ashore so that it might be immortalised by
the camera.

Upon being beached, it proved to be a white shark,
measuring nearly 14 feet in length, and weighing over
1,400 pounds, which speaks volumes for the strength of
my lines, for it had been caught on those I used for the
sand-sharks, never expecting anything this size to take
the small bait.

I think we were really all too pleased with ourselves
to attempt any more fishing, besides which there was
my usual work to do. They were also very keen on
seeing our little colony of land-crabs, so while they went
off for this purpose, I removed the vertebrae and jaws.

I had planned to take them out next day after saw-
fish, and upon our return in the evening I received
news that his Excellency Dr. Belisario Porras would
come over the following day with a party in the Presi-
dential yacht, and hoped to see a real monster. Need-
less to say I was most anxious to gratify his wishes. I
found the tide would be exactly right if we started at
8 a.m. I believe it is usually recognised that it is
very difficult for ladies to rise early, but all I can say
is that anticipation must be a wonderful thing, for at
about 6.30 a.m. they had breakfasted, and were down,
literally fussing to get, away. The panga and four
natives from the village were waiting, and without
delay, hitching on to the back of the yacht, away we
went, arriving at our destination well before time.
During the interval which had to elapse before the

r/-TON SAWFISH (p. 224)
Length, 24]^ ft ; girth, 17J ft

GREAT WHITE SHARK (p 230)

230]

THE PRESIDENT 231

tide was low enough for us to go out after saw-fish, we
ran out our sand-shark lines again, but this time had
no luck. I knew the President would arrive at Taboga
round lunch time, and was therefore most desirous to
tow back a really mighty specimen, so that he and his
party could see what the waters of Panama Bay con-
tained. The tide having dropped low enough, Mr. and
Mrs. Ewing, with the four natives, now went off in the
panga to search for saw-fish, while we remained on the
yacht taking it easy. We had pulled the shark-lines
in, being much too interested in watching what luck
they had to fish ourselves.

“ Look! they’ve spotted one,” I said, and almost as
I spoke down went the pole. We could see the line
rushing out, to be followed by their little boat leaping
forward as the full force of the frantic fish struck it.
They were now travelling very fasl^ and heading straight
for the yacht. As they came closer I shouted out
asking if they were trying to ram us, but they were all
too wildly excited to take any notice. When passing
our stern Ewing called out :

” Come and help us I ”

“ Not a chance 1 ” I replied. “ Fight it out to the
bitter end — if you’re all thrown into the water, then
we’ll mercifully pick you up I ”

Straight towards the mainland the big fish was towing
them — on and on they travelled.

“ They’re into a big one,” I said to Lady Brown ;
"it’s fighting very much harder than the one we got
the other day.”

They must have gone at least three miles before I
could see through the glasses they were gradually
gaining the mastery, and realised that they now needed
assistance to tow the fish in to shore, so we ran out to
them. Ewing was puffing and blowing, and he and his
wife were wet through with perspiration.

" Oh, boy I ” he called out, " this is the greatest
sport in the world I ”

" I agree,” I replied ; “ but don’t forget you’re having

232 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

exceptionally fine weather — ^you’ve not tried it when
there’s the devil of a storm blowing.”

We got the fish to the surface and despatched it with
the rifle, then fastened it and the panga astern and
proceeded to tow them towards Taboguilla. This
took fully an hour. Ewing was insatiable — ^the lust
of battle had entered into him, and no sooner had he
arrived back than he was in a fever of desire to go
after another, so off they went again. I told him I
did not think it was any use, as the tide was now running
in strong, and I was afraid the water would be too deep,
but he was determined to have another shot at them.

I was busily engaged in seeing the fish made fast
to the stern capstan, when a hail from Lady Brown
on deck told me they had had the luck to strike into
another, and looking shoreward, we could see them
being pulled through the water by another fish. This
time they were not towed so far, and like my first
one, it returned to what was evidently its home, and
started sulking on the bottom, working close inshore,
almost exactly the same as mine did, but after con-
siderable trouble, it was finally beached. Having the
rifle on the yacht, I had to row to them in the dinghy
and kill this one, which finally joined its relative hitched
to the stern of the boat.

” Good work, my boy — ^good work ! ” said Ewing.

"By Jove, I’m awfully glad,” I replied; “this will
be a sight for his Excellency to see.”

Without delay we started up, and proceeded back
to Taboga, towing the two big carcases behind. I had
no idea of their length or weight, having had no
time to examine them properly. I knew they must
be very heavy, because what with the weight of the
dinghy, panga, and two fish we were towing, I do not
think we were making more than 2 ^ to 3 knots.

We had got about half-way home when we saw the
Presidential yacht, covered in flags, and presenting
a gala appearance, nearing Taboga, reaching there
about forty minutes ahead of us. For some time before

THE PRESIDENT 233

our arrival, everybody in the place knew we had captured
something big, owing to the slow pace at which we
were travelling, and what with the arrival of the Presi-
dent and the anticipation of what we were bringing in,
all the village assembled on the dock and vicinity,
both Presidential party and natives being a-quiver with
expectation. As we came ashore, the President and
his guests, who had, while waiting for us, been having a
swim, now came out of the water to welcome us.

“ \^at have you got there, my dear friend ? ” asked
his Excellency.

“ We’re going to show you something you’ve never
seen before,” I replied, and off he went (although only
in his bathing costume) with Lady Brown and Mr. and
Mrs. Ewing round to the little cove, followed by his guard,
and the entire population of the village, while I super-
intended the landing of the big fish.

It took three pangas and our dinghy to tow them
ashore, the enthusiasm of everybody during this period
becoming still more intense, as it was the first time I
had required the help of so many boats as this. When
the fish grounded in the shallow water, the crowd
seized the ropes, and with these numbers there was
no need to wait — ^as I always had to do — ^for the tide
to recede before the fish was fully exposed. They were
pulled up, amidst acclamation, high and dryj and it was
indeed a wonderful sight for those who had never seen
anything like it before. First one, and then the other,
were hauled on to the beach.

“ Now, your Excellency, what do you think of
them ? ” I asked.

He put both his arms round me, in the truly Spanish
way, patting me on the back.

” My dear friend, my dear friend, this is marvellous —
this is astounding I Never did I know such fish lived
here. I can hardly believe it now. I must be photo-
graphed — yes, I must be photographed with them —
I must be made immortal ! ”

Thereupon Lady Brown, together with the President,

234 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

Mr. and Mrs. Ewing, and I faced the camera together
with, the big fish, but we had all entirely forgotten one
thing — ^the President was still in his bathing costume,
with his towel round his neck, the excitement of all
being such that not only had he not noticed, but his
staff had entirely forgotten to remind him of this fact,
and I am sure none of us thought of doing so — ^which
is the explanation of his somewhat unusual attire.

After photographs had been taken, all resumed their
interrupted swim, and when I had finished measuring,
weighing, and opening the fish, removing their saws, etc.,
we joined up in one party.

The President plied me with question after question
in rapid succession — ^what did they weigh? what was
their length ? etc., etc.

They were not as big as I expected, the largest being
almost identical ynth the one I had first caught, which
weighed round if tons, while the second was much
smaller, only weighing just over i ton.

Then came the lunch. It is really difficult in England,
and Dry America, with champagne at the price it is, to
convey a realisation of how on this occasion it flowed
like water. Speech after speech was made, in which
the President toasted our healths, expressing the greatest
good-will towards us on behalf of the Panama Govern-
ment, to which I replied. I could not help feeling
at the time, as did we all, that it is incidents of this sort
that do much good and unite nations together. No
doubt there is a bond between sportsmen in which
race, religion, and politics have no place. The real
friendships which last are cemented in this way and I
feel quite sure that the President will for many years
remember that day at Taboga when he looks at the
photographs which we later presented to him at the
Palace . . . believe me, all attired very differently
from when they were taken I

PANGAS TOWING FISH ASHORE (p. 233)-

LADY BROWN, DR. BELISARIO PORRAS, PRESIDENT, THE AUTHOR, AND
MR. WILLIAM EWING, -^BRITISH CONSUL, WITH BIG SAWFISH (p. 234).

234]

m

CHAPTER XII

SIX THOUSAND FOUR HUNDRED AND NINETY POUNDS
CAUGHT ON HOOK AND LINE IN A DAY

It was not long after this that we were joined by H. W.
Huggins, an excellent example of that type of English-
man who, leaving the old country, seeks fresh fields
and pastures new, doing splendid pioneer work, creat-
ing further trade and revenue, which are really the back-
bone of Great Britain's resources. He had recently been
out to Providence and St. Andrew's Islands, in the
, Caribbean, collecting tortoiseshell, apart from which
he had opened up quite a flourishing cocoa estate near
Chorrera.

I shall always remember the morning he arrived. He
impressed on me that he could only stay for two days, as
he was obliged to return to England.

" We’ll see ! " I answered enigmatically.

I knew he was an ardent sportsman, and once having
got the fever, that it would require wild horses to drag
him away ; but the first day we went out together proved
very disappointing — something had gone wrong with
our bait, which was decidedly odoriferous. Not a
single fish did we hit, but we had demonstrated to us
the definite fact, as far as sand-sharks are concerned,
that they will not touch anything that has lost its
pristine freshness.

We had fished all day, and in the afternoon, becoming
disgusted, threw overboard the rest of the Spanish
mackerel we had been using for bait. They were
smelling pretty badly and we were thankful to see the
last of them. They floated on the top of the water
with an oily scum widening round. They had drifted

*35

236 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

about ten yards from the boat when we both noticed one
or two dorsal fins cutting through the water.

" Can you beat that ? ” I said to him. “ Here
we’ve been all day fishing with not a touch, and now
look ! ”

The sharks came right up to the evil-smelling floating
fish, knocked them, and poked them about with their
noses, then swam round in circles, and returning nosed
them again, but, very much like ourselves, they could
not stand it, and without attempting to seize the bait,
turned, and made off.

“ You can’t have a finer example of how silly the
tales are that sharks like putrid fish,” I said ; ” these
fish were hungry, and wanted to feed, but you see they
simply won’t take anything that’s putrid. Now you
understand why we’ve not had a run all day ? ”

” Let’s bathe ! ” he said.

” You can, if you like, but I refuse,” I replied. ” After
being laid out for three weeks recently, the joys of
tropical bathing don’t appeal to me. If you want a dip.
I’ll keep ‘ cave ’ with the rifle, and protect your sacred
person.”

He was far too careful to attempt to swim out in deep
water, but kept close inshore, while I watched ever on
the alert. When he had finished, I said :

“ Now I’ll show you where I’m going to bathe.”

In between some rocks was a deep pool, just a little
larger than an ordinary-sized bath, and about 4 or 5
feet deep. On the tide rising every day the water
flowed in, so that it was always fresh.

” How about this for an ideal tub ? ” I asked him.
” No fear of sharks or sting-rays, and the water is so hot
you could sit in here for hours if you wanted without
getting chilled.”

Happy in the knowledge that if not very godly, we were
at least cleanly, we returned home, where I am quite sure
our tales of the huge fish we had lost excited grave sus-
picion in the mind of Lady Brown, who had decided to
remain behind and rest that day.

SIX THOUSAND POUNDS ON HOOK AND LINE 237

“ I knew you wouldn't catch anything as I wasn’t
with you,” she said.

It is a curious fact that nearly every native in the
place believed that unless she was in the boat there would
be no fish, and it nearly always worked out this way.
They became quite superstitious on the subject, almost
seeming to dislike going out without her.

” I’ll go to-morrow,” she told us, “ and you’ll catch
something then.”

The next day we sallied forth, full of fresh hope. In
view of what followed, I should like to point out that
our bait on this occasion was quite fresh — ^totally dif-
ferent from that of the day before. We arrived off
Taboguilla about 8 o’clock, and at once commenced
to fish with the sand-shark lines. By Jove I they were
there, and waiting for us I I had only run out two
lines, and not three minutes had elapsed before we were
hard at it from both sides of the boat, and fast into good
fish. We got them alongside successfully, and alter-
nately holding their heads up, Robbie clubbed them
vigorously, and we heaved them on deck. They must
have weighed nearly 300 pounds apiece.

” Let’s see if we can’t make a record catch 1 ” said
Huggins. ” I propose we go on fishing like this, and
see how many we can get before our strength gives out.”

This was the beginning of one of the most remarkable
day’s fishing I have ever had in my life. Every time
the lines were run out off went a fish. Having landed
eight, we were both pretty well all in, as indeed were
Robbie and our other boy. Drenched through with
perspiration, gasping and puffing — ^the only thing we felt
would make life perfect was water, and plenty of it.

We ran out the lines again — ^it was Lady Brown’s
turn to do some hard work while we rested.

“ Watch her,” I said to Huggins. ” Bet you a dollar
if she hooks a fish she’ll lose it I ”

The look I received from her expressed her contempt
better than words, and almost at that moment away
went the line. I thought she was going to let the fish

238 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

strike itself when the end of the line was reached, but
letting it run without resistance through her hands,
all of a sudden I saw her tighten and haul back hard.
We both shuddered as we saw she had struck a heavy
fish, and knew as the line was torn through her hands
that it must have ripped the skin off.

“ Let go ! ” I shouted — for God’s sake let go 1 ”

She would not — her blood was up. Now commenced
a most remarkable fight — she was determined to catch
that fish herself, and although we almost implored her
to let us help, she positively refused. She was hauling
and pla5dng the shark with what seemed almost super-
human strength, though I could see from the expression
on her face she was suffering agony.

“ For God’s sake let go ! ” I cried again, " and let
us handle it ” ; but it was impossible to get the line from
her without tearing it out of her hands, and she was
obdurate.

After about a quarter of an hour we could see she was
feeling the strain badly, but she stuck it out and a little
later brought the fish alongside. I would take no
chances of missing it with the club, and rapidly smashed
two bullets into it ; but instead of immediately killing
it, it tore off again with a tremendous dash, the line once
more tearing through her hands. However, it was the
last effort, and it was quickly brought up to the boat —
this time quite dead.

We hauled it on deck, and found it weighed 415 pounds,
which is, I believe, a world’s record for a fish landed by
a wonoian on a line. Considerable space was devoted
in the Canadian and American papers to the photographs
and story of this capture, and it was really a feat of
which anyone might have felt proud, but what a price
she paid 1 Her hands were in a terrible condition, the
skin being ripped off all the fingers, and also from the
palm of one hand, and for nearly three weeks they had
to be bandaged, which stopped her active participation
in fishing during this time.

We wanted to return to Taboga, but she would not

SIX THOUSAND POUNDS ON HOOK AND LINE 239

hear of it, telling us that we had started so well towards
a record catch that she would not dream of spoiling our
sport, so again we commenced.

Very shortly we were hard at it — ^sand-shark after
sand-shark we caught, though none as large as Lady
Brown’s — their average weight was between 250 and
280 apiece. Resting every now and then, we ulti-
mately landed sixteen, the deck being piled high with
them.

I had not yet run my line out after catching, my last
fish.

“ Let’s chuck it, Huggins,” I said ; ” I’m absolutely
tired out.”

“ One more strike,” he begged, “ and we’ll quit.”

” Right-0,” I replied ; “ I’ll watch what you do.”

Almost at once his slack commenced to leave the deck,
but as he struck, this fish made a wild dash that al-
most shot him overboard. The line was torn from his
hands and fairly whistled out, coming up with a tre-
mendous jerk when the end was reached.

“ That’s no sand-shark ! ” he cried.

We both felt the line — ^it was straining as if it would
burst any minute.

” Up with the anchor, Robbie — quick — start the
engine ! ” and we went ahead.

” Now I wonder what it is this time?,” said
Huggins.

" Heaven alone knows,” I replied ; and while we
were both feeling the line, waiting for a favourable
opportunity for the fish to ease up, I told him of our
adventure with the big fish that had towed us out and
bitten through the steel shank of our hook.

“ We’ve got to play this fish very gently,” I said ;
“ remember this is only one of the light lines. Take
your time and go easy, and we may land it.”

I went to the wheel, manipulating the boat in the
direction of the fish, accelerating our speed in tune to
its rushes, while he, Robbie, and the boy handled the
line. A long time elapsed, and still it seemed that we

SIX THOUSAND POUNDS ON HOOK AND LINE 241

graphs of this huge catch, including the tiger-shark, the
curious markings of which can be clearly seen.

Our total bag was sixteen sand-sharks and one tiger-
shark, the latter 14 feet 2 inches in length, and weighing
1,370 pounds. The total weight of the whole seventeen
was 6,490 pounds, and the New York World and New
York Times, together with other newspapers, I believe,
considered this a world’s record capture in one day on
the line.^ As a result of the publicity, I had many
letters from various parts of the States, England, and
Canada enquiring about the fishing off Panama. It
may become a second Florida — ^who knows ?

To open up all these fish in the, small time remaining
that day was out of the. question — I examined as many
as possible, but had perforce to leave the majority
untouched.

In spite of the fact that we were worn out, we sum-
moned up enough energy to tow all these carcases out
to sea, dumping them in our usual fishing-ground, in
the hope that they would attract swarms of other fish
before we commenced operations next day, when we
made up our minds we would not use the sand-shark
lines at all, but start right away with our heaviest
tackle. For this purpose we retained eight huge slabs
of shark flesh for bait.

It was quite dark by the time we returned to Taboga.
I think Lady Brown's fame as a mascot was now firmly
established for ever. Down in the village in all serious-
ness they ascribed to her presence this great catch,
though to this day I am sure they have never understood
what the “ fool English ” should want, to go out fishing
for something that could not be eaten or sold.

1 The photograph is on the page facing 260.

16

CHAPTER XIII

FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS — ^AN AWFUL SIGHT

We were frightfully stiff on the morrow, and Lady
Brown’s hands were very painful, but in spite of that
she determined to accompany us again. Before drop-
ping anchor I circled the yacht over the place where we
had deposited the shark carcases, but not a vestige
of them remained. Huggins thought the fish, having
had such a gorge, would probably not feed, but a big
shark’s appetite is something enormous — ^like the peli-
can, it never seems satisfied.

We ran out two heavy shark-lines with a huge bait,
weighing nearly 6o pounds on each — ^then sat down to
await events, and were shortly rewarded. My line
was the first to start running out. I did not attempt
to strike, letting it run to the end before touching it.

" Now then, come on,, all together ! ” I shouted,
“ Let’s see what we can do with it I ”

We hauled and struggled against the big bulk fighting
a hundred yards away, but our efforts for some time
were quite unavailing, when by dint of sheer brute
strength we commenced foot by foot to haul in. So
hard at work were we that we had not thought about
the other line out, until Robbie, glancing round, yelled
that there was another fish on this. This was the first
time I had seen two giants on together. We were all
pulling as hard as we could, none of us being able to
leave the one for a moment to attend to the other,
which commenced to circle round the bow of the boat.
Evidently it must have crossed ours, for suddenly the
line was tom from our grasp, running, out once more to
its full length, and we could all see that the two big fish

242

FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS 243

had come together and were fast entwining the ropes.
Every now and again it was quite easy to see they were
tugging in different directions, actually pulling against
one another.

“ Huggins, there’s nothing to do now but smoke,”
I said ; “ we’ve as much chance of landing these two
fish before they become played out as a snowflake has

of not melting in ” Seeing Lady Brown I ended

abruptly.

” Saved ! ” I breathed.

“ Coward I ” replied Huggins, sotto voce.

“ Hero ! ” I retorted, “ you finish it.” But there was
nothing doing. .

Some little time went by and we were getting tired
of sitting there doing nothing, when Huggins had an
inspiration.

“ I know 1 Let’s up anchor, start the engine and go
astern, towing them after us : we may be able to drown
them that way.”

“ Right-0 1 ” I answered, but as soon as we commenced
to move, there was certainly some trouble from those
fish — ^they fought and tugged while slowly we crept nearer
the shore. When we had arrived so close that I did
not dare approach further, I said :

“ I still don’t see that we are any nearer solving the
difficulty than we were before ; how are we going to
beach them ? ”

Here the genius in the man rose uppermost.

” Why not bring the dinghy up to the bow, undo first
one line, and then the other, and fasten them to the
dinghy, and then row them in ? ”

..Robbie was smiling broadly. I whispered in his ear :

" Don’t say anything — ^let him try it, but I’ll stand
by.”

His plan was carried out to the letter : with great
difficulty first one line and then the other was attached
to the bow of the little boat, but the oars had hardly
been dipped in the water before what I knew would
happen took place. Instead of making the shore they

244 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

started going out to sea, for they had just as much chance
of towing in those two fish as they had of moving the
island itself.

Huggins was straining at the oars whilst I sat on
the deck cheering him on to fresh efforts. He could
not retort suitably, because Lady Brown was on deck,
doubled up with laughter, but what he was saying in
an undertone to Robbie, who was with him, I could
guess, as I have always been an adept at putting myself
in another person’s place I

After watching their futile struggles for a little while,
my soft-hearted companion suggested I had better go
to their rescue.

“ The only thing that makes me do it is that I’m
afraid of losing our little boat,” I replied, so away we
went after them, but although to get the lines from the
deck fastened on the dinghy was one matter, to get them
back again was another, and I at once saw this was
quite impossible. There was only one thing to do, and
that was to tow the lot as it was. I threw a rope to
them, and again reversing the engine, brought them
back as close as I dared to the shore.

We were still no nearer a solution of how to land the
fish.

” It’s no good, Huggins,” I shouted out ; “ I’ll
have to go astern, and keep on going until they’re
drowned.”

" I don’t care what you do,” was his irate reply, so
I proceeded to carry this into effect ; and after some
time had elapsed, the fish appeared to be pretty well
dead, thereupon I dropped anchor about 30 yards off
the beach, and throwing them the heavy rope, told
them to make it fast to the two fish-lines, then quickly
row with it ashore, fasten it round the rocks, and return
to the yacht for myself and the boy. They were able
to carry this out all right, and presently, by all of us
hauling, we gradually worked the two sharks into
shallow water.

“ Now fasten the line up tight,” I said, ” and leave

FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS 245

them while we go back to the yacht, do some fishing,
and eat. The tide will drop presently, and we can
examine them.”

I had plenty of spare tackle with me, so being without
the two lines that were hooked into the tied-up fish
made no difference, and after lunch we commenced
fishing again. Although we tried for some time, we
seemed to have no luck, and were about to cease when
off went Huggins’s line. This time I pulled in mine at
once. I was determined to have no more mix-ups, but
when his manilla rope had run to the end, I knew this
was something very different, for the force and strength
were sufficient to move the yacht easily. Ahead it
went — ^we at once pulled up the anchor, and now we
were off, towed by a veritable giant. There was no
fear of the tackle parting now the boat was under way,
and this time I felt assured we should really land a
monster. Huggins had never seen anything quite like
this before, and for some time was, I think, almost too
surprised to speak. Straight towards the mainland
the big fish swam, farther and farther away from
Taboguilla.

“ If it keeps on hke this for an hour or two,” I groaned,
“ we’ll land up in Panama ” ; but it soon changed its
course, heading towards Taboga, then bore away towards
Urava.

“ How long do you think it’s going on ? ” enquired
Huggins.

“ Silly question number one,” I replied. ” How on
earth do I know? I’ve not got the faintest idea
what we’ve got on.”

We all tried hauling on the rope, but it was useless.

” Suppose we reverse it again ? ”

” No use,” I answered ; “ this is far too big for that
—even this tackle wouldn’t stand that strain. There’s
only one thing to do — ^let it keep on going till it tires
itself out.”

Two hours and a half went by in this manner before
we were able to start regaining line by using our utmost

246 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

strength. The fish had now ceased to tow us, and seemed
to be almost a dead weight. Foot by foot, slowly but
svurely we were pulling it in closer. I was expecting a
wild dash every moment, but nothing happened.
Presently the line was stretched straight down beneath
us, and whatever was on the other end commenced to
come towards the surface.

“ Oh, my Grf)d 1 ” suddenly called out Huggins,
“ look down, and for heaven’s sake don’t bring it any
nearer the yacht 1 ”

I looked beneath the water, and saw an awful sight
— a huge shape which seemed to be almost the size
of the boat appeared with, out from the front of the
head, a grotesque projection serrated each side with
the curious pointed sharp teeth of the saw-fish.

" We must get this one, Huggins,” I said ; “ it’s a
long way bigger than anything I’ve yet landed — this
fish must weigh over 2 tons if it weighs a pound. Come
on 1 let’s do the best we can.”

Inch by inch, higher and higher we raised it. Now
the wicked-looking eyes in the top of its flat head were
plainly visible, the huge broad flappers on either side
moved feebly in the water. As it rose to the surface I
saw at once by its colossal bulk that it was a
female, but I had much to learn of the habits of these
fish.

“ Give the rope a half hitch round this stanchion,”
I called out, ” and hold it there while I get the
rifle.”

I was just on the point of firing when the motionless
form was seized with a maniacal fury — I had just time
to notice the huge saw flash roxmd when the thud and
shock as it struck the boat jarred all of us. At the same
moment a perfect wave of water came completely over
the yacht, blinding us for the instant, and when we again
looked over the side, our mortification was intense to
discover the fish had disappeared, the hook having been
wrenched completely out of the mouth with the tre-
mendous force to which it had been subjected.

FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS 247

We were too surprised to say anjdihing. Then
Huggins looked at me sadly and said :

“I'll dream of that fish all my life, and I’m quite
sure no one will ever believe me when I tell the story.
How long do you think it was ? ”

“ Without any exaggeration it must have been at
least 28 feet.’’

“ Yes, it was quite that,’’ he answered.

Suddenly I remembered something :

“ Robbie, go below, and see if we are taking in water — •
it wouldn’t surprise me if that terrific blow with the
saw hasn’t pierced the bottom of the boat.’’

Robbie quickly returned with the welcome news
that all was well ; but subsequently when I beached
the Cara to have the bottom cleaned, I found that
there were four holes driven completely through the
copper plates on the bottom.

Later I was to witness the strength of this fish’s
weapon.

“ Never mind, Huggins,’’ I said to him, “ it’s all
part of the game.’’

“ Yes,’’ he groaned, “ but what a picture lost 1
Can’t you see a photograph of that fish enlarged hanging
on the wall ? I’ll never cease to regret not landing it."

“ We’ll try again to-morrow," I said, “ and see if
we can’t get another.”

He shook his head sadly.

“ Never 1 ’’

We now returned, and went ashore to examine the
two fish we had previously stranded in the shallow
water, which the receding tide had meanwhile left high
and dry. As we stood looking at them I said ;

“ Well, my boy, here at any rate is a picture for you
— ^what do you think of that for a day’s work ? ”

They wefe both shovel-nose, and there appeared to
be little difference in weight between them. One
weighed round 1,050 pounds, the other about i,ioo,
while they both measured over 1 3 feet. It was getting
so- late that to photograph and open them that day was

FIGHT WITH TWO GREAT SHARKS 249

or two ” had by now developed into ten — ^as I had
shrewdly suspected would be the case I

We caught quite a few more fish together, but at
last he tore himself away. We were awfully sorry when
he left, and my hope is that our fishing may be continued
in the near future.

CHAPTER XIV

WE ARE CAUGHT IN AN AWFUL STORM

Two or three days after Huggins’s departure, we ran
out to Melones in the yacht, to try off the little sandy
bay there. It was a glorious morning, with the sea as
smooth as a mill-pond, but intensely hot — ^the atmo-
sphere seemed almost to press one down. We had good
sport in the morning, and after catching sand-sharks
for bait, played and landed a big shovel-nose which
was certainly over 12 feet in length. We tied it to
our stem to tow back later, after we had finished our
day’s work. The heat became insufferable as the day
advanced — ^in fact, so bad that I at last suggested we
should not bother any more, but lunch in the cock-pit
and return. Little did we guess while we were eating
what was coming !

We had almost finished our meal when I happened to
look out in the direction of Panama, tg find the whole of
the mainland with the islands of Tortola and Flamenco
utterly obscured — sky and sea had merged in one, and
a deep gloom was settling over everything. Even as I
looked, the darkness advanced with great rapidity, yet
not a breath of wind rippled the water where we lay.

“ Start the engine, Robbie 1 ” I shouted, “ and up
with the anchor.! We’ve got to make for Taboga as
quick as we can — we’re right in the path of a great
storm.”

I turned to Lady Brown.

“ I don’t like the look of things ; there’s a chuquesana
coming hard down upon us.

The engine started, and now for the first time the

250

AN AWFUL STORM 251

anchor jammed in some unsuspected rocks — ^strain as
hard as we could, it was impossible to shift it.

“ There’s only one thing to do,” I said : ” I’ll go

ahead and tear it up.”

As I started to do this, the first puff of wind struck
us, to be followed almost instantaneously by the full
blast of the hurricane. With a-wrench I felt the anchor
givej but now the fury of the gale was so great that we
were hurled back before it, and to complete our mis-
fortune, at that moment the engine faltered and stopped.
We were at once swept past the little bay — closer and
closer to the rocks which jutted out on either side of
the island. Robbie down below was frantically en-
deavouring to get the engine started. All at once I
remembered the shark tied on to our stern, and here, I
knew, was the cause of our trouble. Hanging on for
dear life, I made my way to the end of the boat, and
looking over, saw that the rope with which it was tied
up had become wound round the propeller. I hacked
at it desperately with my knife, cutting it free — ^but too
late ! With a sudden grinding crash we struck.

” Jump for your life ! ” I shouted to Lady Brown.

. The sea had become very rough, breaking over us
continuously. A receding wave carried us off into deep
water, and now I could hear the engine at last chugging,
but made sure we were lost, for with another horrible
bump, we were thrown up on the rocks. It seemed
impossible the boat could live. Once more we dropped
off into deep water, almost broadside ; struggling
manfully, we drew away a few feet — still a little further
— ^how I prayed the engine would not fail us !

It is almost impossible to describe what occurred after
this, for, with a frightful noise, we seemed to be in the
midst of a water-spout, an unbroken torrent thundering
down on deck. In the middle of this raging hell I
thought I must be suffering from hallucinations, for
a heavy coil of rope and other articles were lifted from
the deck into the air and, whirling upwards, disappeared.

The gloom was now so intense that from the wheel I

2 52 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

could not see the bow of the boat, while the smashing of
the rain was nearly blinding me. There was nothing to
do but drive before the wind. I was suffering acutely
from my eyes, when I felt a hand held against my fore-
head, shielding them. I looked round in amazement
to see that instead of jumping, as I had begged her to
do. Lady Brown had stuck to the ship.

“ Why didn’t you jump ? ” I fairly gasped, “ we’ll
never weather this ! ’■

I don’t know what she said — ^in fact, for the next
hour or so I seemed to live in a maze. I had not the
slightest idea where we were being driven — whether
we were making water, or what was happening to us.
How I thanked God when there came a lull ! Mo-
mentarily it became lighter, and to my amazement I
found we had circled the island completely, and were
once more off the sandy bay where the blast had first
struck us. This breathing-space, however, was merely
temporary. The darkness again closed in, growing
even denser. We were at the mercy of the elements.
The following waves were now so high they were breaking
over our stern and even into the cock-pit. The storm
raged fully an hour before the wind commenced to
abate, but the rain was still terrific. I endeavoured to
steer in the direction in which I imagined Taboga to be.

“ I believe I’m going right ! ” I yelled.

They agreed with me.

“ If only this curtain would lift ! ” I groaned.

The rain lessened, but a heavy sea was running. The
black mass rolled over, and now we could see where
we were. I was horrified to find that instead of heading
towards Taboga, I was actually making straight out
in the Pacific, having been driven at least 14 miles in
the opposite direction.

I don’t think any of us will ever forget the journey
back. How we escaped death is an inexplicable miracle,
and even when we did arrive it was to find the sea
rolling in so heavily that to drop anchor in our usual
place was an utter impossibility, so we ran round Morro

AN AWFUL STORM 253

Island, and tucked ourselves in behind. As soon as
the anchor had dropped, a reaction set in after the tension
we had passed through, and we lay out almost prostrate
during the three hours which elapsed before we could
creep into our old mooring. The people at the hotel
had meantime been seriously alarmed, and I do not
think they ever expected to see us again. They had
received warning from the mainland that a hurricane
was coming, but of course they were quite unable to
let us know.

However, there was more trouble to follow. At day-
break next morning I was hurriedly aroused by a very
agitated Robbie.

“ The boat’s leaking badly. Boss, and I’m afraid she’ll
sink.”

Only waiting to get my shirt and shorts on, I dashed
down with him, and went on board, to find the little
yacht was indeed in a serious condition. Water was
coming in from somewhere, and had risen up to the
engine. We both started to pump as hard as we could
to get the water down, so that we could start the engine.
Fortimately we were successful, and without waiting
for breakfast, made straight off for Balboa. By the
time we had reached there, she was leaking worse than
ever. We docked close to the Government shops, and
without delay men ..came on board to try to save her
from sinking. They found the lavatory pipe had frac-
tured — this was quickly stopped temporarily with a
wooden plug ; but as she was still making water, there
were evidently other places. Systematically over-
hauling her, they discovered the sea coming in through
the tail-shaft bearing ; the exhaust pipe was also badly
cracked, propeller damaged, and copper plates torn
away from the bottom, and all this was caused
when the storm had flung her on the rocks at
Melones.

I made arrangements for the repairs to be carried
out. They were good chaps, and when they heard
how we had been caught in the terrible storm the day

254 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

before, they were surprised our little craft had weathered
it ; but that night, when I returned to Taboga, I was
indeed the bearer of bad news. Still, considering every-
thing, I was thankful the damage was not even worse,
and we were alive, which was more than I had at one
time expected.

During the ten days that elapsed before our yacht
was ready for sea, we spent our time in thoroughly
examining Taboga Island, and in collecting coral and
innumerable beautiful shells round the beach, but time
hung heavily on our hands. This enforced idleness did
not suit us at all, and it was really a great day when I
returned to Balboa to fetch our little boat. I brought
her in with all flags flying, and I could not help feeling
that everyone was as glad to see her again as we were
ourselves. She certainly looked spick and span, for
during the time she had been laid up Robbie had re-
varnished and painted her afresh, so she was looking
her best, and we solemnly split a bottle of champagne
to celebrate the occasion.

There was one thing we made up our minds about —
and that was never to return to Melones, for it was here
Lady Brown had nearly been killed by the shark, and
the second time we had narrowly escaped destruction
by the chuquesana, and remembering the old adage
that the “ third's the charm,” we were not quite certain
where the charm might lie, so determined to take no
chances.

On our first trip we ran out to Cham^. Whilst
anchoring in the sandy mouth of the river, having
nothing better to do, I thought I would try with a light
rod. There must be swarms of cat-fish here, for as fast
as the bait was dropped in I caught them. They are
ugly-looMng things, averaging about a pound in weight,
and the greatest care has to be exercised in removing
the hook, owing to three very sharp spines, one rising
from the dorsal, and the other two from the pectoral
fins. This is a good place for corbina — I got three or
four, weighing five or six pounds each, finishing up

AN AWFUL STORM 255

with a little shark that could not have weighed more
than eight or nine.

The weather remained perfect all day, and we were
glad to find the yacht in as good trim as ever, so deter-
mined to recommence our hunt of great game without
delay*

CHAPTER XV

BATTLE WITH A GREAT SAW-FISH — ^TERRIFIC FIGHT
BETWEEN SHARK AND SAW-FISH

I WAS Still keen on getting a really big saw-fish, the
largest I had actually landed up to date weig hing

I I tons ; so, making full preparations, started off next
morning with the panga and natives. There was no
need to leave early, as the tide would not be right until
about II o’clock, and timing it to a nicety, after an-
choring, we were soon drifting in the panga over their
ground.

The Panaman harpoon expert had given me many
hints how to use this weapon, and placing myself in the
bow, I was all in readiness to strike, should I be lucky
enough to see one of the great shapes lying motionless
on the bottom. I was just telling the oarsman to work
a little closer, when right ahead beneath the surface I
perceived a dark outline. I could not really make out
exactly whether it was a fish or not, but on the offchance
drove down the harpoon as hard as I could. Ye gods 1 I
was not left long in doubt. Whizz went the rope over the
bow of the panga, and back I was hurled into the bottom.
As the end of the line was reached we shot forward,
the water curling from our bow, for we were cutting
through at a great pace.

“ We’re into a real one this time,” I said to them when
I had somewhat recovered myself.

The only thing to do now was to have the oars in
readiness to turn the boat as rapidly as possible in case
the fish doubled — ^to back water was impossible, so
strongly and rapidly was the fish swimming : had we
done so, the blades would probably have snapped. There

256

FIGHT BETWEEN SHARK AND SAW-FISH 257

was no doubt we were all in considerable danger. Away
out across the bay the big fish travelled with undiminished
speed, and I knew that if everything went in our favour
we were in for a long, stem battle. Much, however,
depended on whether I had driven the harpoon into a
more or less vital spot.

At least an hour and a half must have elapsed when,
totally unlike the others we had captured, it appeared
to be coming towards the surface. Up came the big
saw, to be followed by the tremendous shape. It had
quite stopped going ahead. Now the oars were got out,
for there was more than a possibility of trouble coming
and our safest place was as far away as the end of the
line would allow.

In a fury of rage it commenced to thrash the water
both with its tail and flukes, and immediately after-
wards I witnessed exactly how the saw was used.
With immense force it struck alternately to right and
left with a rapid slashing motion, when, turning slightly
sideways, it drove up and down in the same manner ;
then, curving the tail and saw towards each other, so
that the body was shaped like a bow, it snapped straight
out with tremendous force. Had our boat been within
striking distance, one blow from the tail or saw would
have spelt disaster. I had my rifle with me and,
taking snapshot aim, fired twice. The suck of the
bullet as it found its mark, followed by the frightful
ingurgitation, was eloquent testimony that I had not
missed.

Down the big fish drove, but the water in Panama
Bay is not particularly deep anywhere, so we had no
fear of the end of the line being reached. It remained
beneath for only a few minutes, when it again came to
the surface, bursting the water in every direction.
Again I fired, and struck a vital spot. After this last
shot its movements became perceptibly feebler, while
the tell-tale ever-widening circle of red showed blood
must be pouring from the holes caused by the bullets.

We now started to pull towards the shore, the fish

17

258 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

making no further resistance. All this time I had
been wondering why the yacht had not come to our aid
— I fear I anathematised everyone on board. How I
wished the Cara would come and lend a hand 1 After
struggling valiantly for some time, we ultimately had
to give in — ^we found the towing of this big carcase was
quite beyond our strength.

Standing up in the panga, we waved the oars back-
wards and forwards, signalling to the yacht, which
was about two miles distant, that we were in need of
her. Every now and then I could see what I took to be
Lady Brown waving back, but still the yacht did not
come. I now realised there must be something wrong.
We sat out there in the sizzling heat, fuming, for over
an hour before I saw the Cara commence to move towards
us : whatever had been the matter was evidently
rectified. She was coming full speed, with Lady Brown
at the wheel.

In answer to enquiries as they came up alongside I was
told that a wretched little spring that governed the
petrol feed had broken, and it had taken much coaxing
before another could be replaced to regulate the proper
mixture. It would have been a serious matter for us
if our boat had been overturned by the fish and
we had been flung into the sea, while a stupid little
matter like this kept the yacht from coming to our
assistance.

It did not take long to get the panga and our rope
attached to the stern of the Cara, when very slowly
(in case we tore the harpoon out) we commenced to
return to the island. The tide was almost full, and choos-
ing a nice sandy spot, with the utmost care I nosed the
yacht on the beach— then, unfastening the panga from
the stern, while two jumped into the sea almost up
to their necks and pulled it, the other tugged at the
oars and quickly got to shore, while the engines of the
Cara were reversed, and she backed out, anchoring about
50 yards away. Lady Brown, Robbie, and the boy
then also joined us, rowing from the yacht in the dinghy.

FIGHT BETWEEN SHARK AND SAW-FISH 259

We now all heaved on the line, slowly hauling the fish
in. Ultimately it grounded in the shallow water, and
we could do nothing more than leave it until the falling
tide should accomplish the rest.

Two or three returned to the yacht, bringing food, the
kettle, etc., ashore, where we built a fire and fed, for
we had plenty of time to spare before we could examine
the fish.

Time seems to hang very heavily when you are all
impatience to be up and doing, but the now rapidly
dropping tide presently commenced to disclose a .
monstrous bulk, and soon high and dry the great shape
lay, when we were able to examine what, up till now,
was the mightiest fish I had ever caught. It was a
giant saw-fish, 29 feet in length by 19 feet in circum-
ference, and weighed 4,500 pounds. The photograph
shows the flat-bottomed panga used in its capture,
and behind can be seen the rocky point of Taboguilla,
while like a speck in the distance is the little yacht at
anchor.

This remarkable photograph, taken by Lady Richmond
Brown, shows plainly how these big fish are beached and
left by the receding tide.

On examination it proved to be a male. My years
of observation of sea-life told me that invariably the
female was considerably larger than the male. I have
noticed this with nearly all fish, not only in tropical
water, but also off the shores of many other
countries.

On careful examination the interior of this fish showed
no trace of disease, but seemed singularly free from the
various growths and complaints that attack the shark
family.

I think the reports of the capture of this fish appeared
in the press virtually all over the world, the Daily
Mail in England, the New York Times t and Toronto
Star devoting considerable space to the matter, which
I beheve aroused quite an amount of interest among the
angling fraternity.

26o BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

I was greatly bucked at getting this big fellow — I felt
my long-cherished theories that monsters existed in
the deep of which Science knew nothing were at last
definitely materialising. My hammer-head shark with
the grotesque head, the tiger-shark, the shovel-nose,
and now this last, collectively proved that almost any-
thing was possible.

Later that night, after our return, I was all anxiety
to start out again with my big tackle, and was up next
day at daybreak. At 7.30 being joined by Lady Brown,
off we went.

I had saved a huge chunk of saw-fish flesh, and with-
out delay, impaling a couple of baits (which must have
weighed a hundredpounds apiece onmy 14-pound hooks),
I was about to lower them into the dinghy to be rowed
out, when, looking ahead, my attention was attracted
by the large dorsal fin of a 14-foot shark slowly moving
through the water. Almost at the same time a huge
black shape rose to the surface. Neither appeared
to take -the slightest notice of the other, the shark
continuing on its way, but as it was swimming at a
distance of about twenty yards past the motionless bulk,
in a flash it suddenly shot in at right angles towards
the great saw-fish — ^for such it was — ^and before the
saw-fish could save itself, tore a great chunk out of its
side.

The attacker turned to escape, but too late — ^the ter-
rible weapon of the wounded leviathan smashed roimd.
From where we were we could distinctly hear the thud
as it struck the shark,. almost severing it. Again the
blow was repe^ed, the second being even more violent
than the first. The shark must have been killed in-
stantaneously.

It was a wonderful sight.

“ By Jove 1 ” I said. " A marine battle such as
we have just seen must have frequently occurred
in the Mesozoic Period.” Lady Brown shuddered,
and replied : “ How ghastly cruel nature is I It’s
awful.”

SIXTEEN SAND SHARKS AND TIGER-SHARK CAUGHT ON HOOK AND LINE (p. 241).

Weight, 6,490 lb.

26 o ]

TIGER-SHARK, 20 FT. 9 IN. (p. 265 ).

FIGHT BETWEEN SHARK AND SAW-FISH 261

It was almost a certainty that the blood and carcase
would attract fish, so I now had my two baits rowed
out, having a conviction that we were going to catch
another great fish.

“I’m going to get one to-day, as sure as I sit here,’’
I said to Lady Brown.

CHAPTER XVI

FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK — ^WE EXPLORE THE
BAYANO RIVER

The starboard line had not been in the water more than
half an hour before the slack commenced to leave the
deck, but strangely enough, after about 15 yards had
disappeared, it stopped. I pulled in, to find the bait
intact, with none of the usual tell-tale marks of shark’s
teeth. It was at once put out again, shortly after to
perform the same trick.

“ That’s funny,” I remarked. “ I wonder what it
can be ? ”

I rebaited, but it was quite an hour before anything
happened. This time there was no hesitation. The
end of the line was reached, but the hook evidently had
not struck home, for the line at once dropped slack, and
on hauling it in I found the bait had disappeared. I
thought I had brought enough of the saw-fish meat with
me to last all day, but found that after using such
enormous slabs as I had been I had only one more big
chunk left.

" Good luck 1 ” I said, as it sank to the bottom,
but it seemed as if the fish were not feeding, or else they
were not there, for by lunch time we still recorded a
blank — ^yet we both had an indefinable feeling that
something was going to happen.

We had just finished eating when the line on the port
side commenced to move off — ^at first almost by inches
— so slowly that on picking it up I could detect a move-
ment as if a fish was swallowing.

” I believe something’s gulping the bait,” I said ;
” I can feel it on the line.”

FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK 263

This, while I was speaking, had ceased to move
altogether, but now again started to run out — ^slowly at
first, then faster and faster as more of the slack left
the deck. I had, of course, to let go of it entirely. By
the heavy pull and stretching when it came up with
almost a twang on the capstan, I knew we had struck
an abnormal one. Although the yacht went ahead, tear-
ing up the anchor, the iron in dragging managed to
set itself again in the bottom ; and in spite of the strain
on the line being terrific, I did not tell Robbie to heave up
so that we might be towed, as that always meant a long
and troublesome business.

There was no dash to and fro or circling, but simply
a persistent pull straight ahead of the yacht. The
motion of the fish beneath the water was most curious,
' for holding the tight line one could distinctly feel a
twisting and twirling almost the same as when one hooks
a big conger.

Lady Brown was all the time asking what I thought
I had, but I was so preoccupied that she told me after-
wards all I did was to grunt.

Presently the fish changed its tactics and, swimming
deep down close to the boat, went astern. We all ran
to the end, using our utmost strength to keep the rope
from going round the propeller as the fish circled — ^but
all in vain, and I was horrified when the line fouled it,
for I knew that unless we could get it clear the strength
of the fish was such it would bend, or seriously damage,
its blades and might even tear it from the shaft. For-
tunately there were no great rushes — ^had there been,
it would certainly have spelt disaster ; but presently
the fish swimming back, as the line momentarily slack-
ened up we were able to free it with the iron hook on
our pole.

“ Thank the Lord for that 1 ” said I, breathing a
sigh of relief.

Very shortly, however, it again had us on tenter-hooks,
for round the stern once more it went, with the result
that the manilla rope was forced so tightly against the

264 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

port rail that I thought every minute it would tear
the lot away.

“ This comes of not pulling up the anchor,” I said.
“ Never again 1 ”

Of course every time this happened we were exerting
our utmost strength against the mighty bulk, and no
doubt this saved serious damage, though our rail,
having become badly bent, had afterwards to be taken
down and straightened.

By almost superhuman heaving and pulling we
managed to get the fish to return once more off the bow.
I was quite mystified by the way it was fighting. In
my struggles to save our rail and propeller I had barked
my knuckles, which were beastly painful and were
bleeding freely, but I still obstinately refused to have
the anchor up when Robbie suggested it.

The doggedness of this brute was really extraordinary.
With us struggling all the time, over two hours went
by, and still the fish continued the same dead heavy
pulling. It had now passed in front to the starboard
side of the bow, moving the yacht with it, so that our
nose was pointing straight towards the shore. This did
not worry me in the least : so long as it kept up forward,
and did not damage the propeller, we were happy.

It was now past 3 o’clock, and nearly low water, so
there was no hope of beaching the fish that day, even
if we finally managed to kill it, and it was three hours
before we obtained a sight of it. Slowly it was be-
coming exhausted.

” It’s a huge tiger-shark,” I cried out.

As we obtained a plainer view, it could be seen that
in its alnaost eel-like movements it had wrapped itself
round and round with the line, which had hitched in
the narrow base of the tail, and we were hauling it in
slowly but surely tail first. As it came alongside the
yacht, the cavernous mouth opened to its full width,
then snapped with a force that would have severed a
man with the greatest ease. Like the smaller one
previously caught, the big black eyes every now and

FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK 265

then were covered with the curious .protecting discs —
it looked like the embodiment of vindictive hate. I
do not know why, but one could almost sense its remorse-
less voraciousness. What a brute I

This, however, was by no means the end of the battle.
More than six times the fish got alongside, only to lunge
downwards again, its sheer bulk preventing us from
arresting the movement. The rifle was all ready, and
I was only waiting a favourable opportunity to smash a
bullet home ; but it is a curious fact — I seemed obsessed
with a fear of I knew not what. Possibly it was the
knowledge that nothing on sea or land is as vicious as
this veritable Lord of the Ocean. Every time it came
to the surface we could not resist the temptation of
looking over the side at this mammoth. All at once I
was compelled to roar out :

“ Keep back ! ”

At that moment the danger I had been anticipating
materialised. There was a roar of water — ^the gigantic
tail for a second lashed into the air, feet higher than the
deck — ^then, with a dreadful crash which shivered the
boat, struck the side with sickening force. The boat
rocked under the shock — ^had it touched one of us we
should have been killed instantly. Again the blow was
repeated. We had fastened the line short up round
the capstan and running aft, clear of the infuriated
creature. I fired bullet after bullet into its bulk —
seven times the missiles thudded home before its terrible
flurry ceased, and we could look over the side in safety
at the muscle-quivering but-lifeless body.

With as little delay as possible we towed it back to
Taboga just in time to get a series of photographs, and
early next morning I commenced my work of dissection.
Its measurements were 20 feet 9 inches in length,
-II feet 7 inches in girth, and the jaws were 7 feet
4 inches in circumference, its weight being 1,760 pounds.
The teeth, which are totally unlike the shovel-nose,
sand-, or white shark, were curved, as can be seen in
Hie photograph, and the hide is different from that of

266 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

other members of the family, being very much finer in
texture.

On opening it I could discover no evidences within
of piscatory feeding, but the remains of its recent
depredations were most remarkable. These consisted
of part of the fore leg and hind leg, vertebrae, ribs, and
shoulder-blade of a bull, bullock, or cow, the remains
of four pelicans, two sea-hawks, two cormorants, and
a number of other bones I could not identify. One
or two small coasting cattle-boats pass up and down
the coast, and no doubt a dead beast had been thrown
overboard, to be rent and consumed by the fish, which
was evidently following the boat.

Towards midday, when I had nearly finished my work,
the President arrived on an unexpected visit, and he
and his party evinced the greatest surprise when I
showed him the contents of the stomach. After remov-
ing the jaws, I found they would easily encircle two
men standing back to back, passing over their heads to
the ground with ease.

During the next few days we caught several more
big fish — shovel-nose up to i,ioo pounds, and three
more saw-fish, the heaviest weighing just on 4,000
pounds.

Several times I had been asked to explore the Chepo
and Bayano River. Although the double name might
lead people to believe there are two rivers, it is really
only one, as for some reason, after the Chepo has run
inland for a few miles, it is then called the Bayano.

Running over to Panama, I lunched with the Minister
of Finance, Dr. Eusibio Morales, who strongly advised
me to go there.

“ You’ll find a tremendous lot to interest you,” he
said, “ and there’s a creek some miles up which, I believe,
holds enormous crocodiles — ^at least so it is reported.”

I went to his office with him, where he very kindly
gave me all the details he could. I at once saw that
the entrance to this river would be very difficult, but
on my return I had fully made up my mind to try it.

SIDE VIEW OF TIGER SHARK (p 265)
Weight, 1,760 Ih

FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK 267

and the next two or three days were fully occupied
in loading up with stores, petrol, and everything I
could think of as being necessary for the attempt.

The day we had decided to start the wind was blowing
in hard from outside, but the next morning conditions
were ideal. We left Taboga, passing outside Taboguilla,
steering east-south-east. On our journey we saw
numbers of fish playing on the surface of the water —
bonito, skipper-jacks, schools of porpoises, and twice in
the distance we noticed whales blowing. Due south,
like smudges on the horizon, we picked up the outlying
rocky sentinels of the Pearl Islands, and proceeding
steadily onwards, shortly after could faintly see the
outline of Chepillo Island, lying about a mile and a half
offshore at the mouth of the Chepo River.

As we came closer, what looked almost like a channel
through the sea, differing in colour from the rest of
the water, denoted how the river, emptying, created a
current far out. We followed this for some time until
we arrived close in to Chepillo. The broad sand-bars
of the river were now plainly visible, while near the island
appeared a rocky reef.

I realised navigation would be even more difficult
than I had anticipated, owing to the muddy water
pouring out and obscuring all view of rocks that might
lie below the surface.

Creeping close in, I made for what looked like an
opening, sending Robbie forward to sound continually.

" Deep water, three fathoms,” he was chanting, as
we crept on.

” Two fathoms, plenty of water.”

We were just through, with apparently plain sailing
ahead of us. Suddenly he yelled out :

“ Stop ! ”

Too late 1 Grinding and bumping we were fast
aground. I immediately stopped the engine — ^the
bottom had suddenly shallowed, the danger being com-
pletely hidden by the muddy water of the river, which
was running out hard with the tide. The lead had

268 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

completely fooled us owing to the sharpness of the
rise.

We were now in a perilous position. It was impossible
to reverse the engine and go astern, as the blades of
the whirling propeller would have been smashed on the
rocks. There was only one thing to do — ^hope for the
best, and remain where we were until the outgoing tide
turned and we could float off on high water. By the
time this could happen it would be dark, and in this
veritable maze of reefs and sandy shoals, to go ahead
(even if it were possible) would be madness, for I had
yet to find out how badly the boat was damaged.

As the water became lower, we commenced to heel
over, the yacht tilting at a really perilous angle. We
were evidently on a ledge of some sort, and I was afraid
that any minute she might fall completely over on her
side, but fortunately this did not happen. We were
quickly left high and dry — so that we could clamber
down the side, walk round, and examine her thoroughly.
This we did with a “ let ’s-know-the- worst ” feeling.
I saw at once that one of the copper plates had been
torn and peeled off the bottom, but it was the propeller
I was worried about. It was badly bent, and one of
the blades had two pieces cut completely out of it.
We straightened it as best we could with oxir tools
until it looked serviceable. The shaft had apparently
stood the shock all right, no fracture being discovered.

“ I don’t think any vital damage has been done,” I
said, " and as far as I can see, if we ever get out of
this confounded hole, there’s no reason why we shouldn’t
continue our journey ; but for the life of me I can’t
think how we are going to get out.”

As dusk was falling the tide commenced to make in.
Gradually the yacht righted, until at last, quivering
and bumping, we floated off, but it was now almost
dark. The current was running in strongly up the
river, and slowly we moved with it. I got Robbie and
the boy into the dinghy with a rope fixed to our bow.
I did not dare risk starting up the engine, fearing that

FIGHT WITH A GREAT TIGER-SHARK 269

if I did so the propeller might be smashed up on hidden
rocks, so told them to guide the yacht by rowing.

Shortly after this we ran aground again, but this
time on sand, and I was indeed glad when we floated
off once more, for we were bumping badly, owing to a
roll, caused by the river running out, meeting the in-
coming tide. We traversed about a hundred yards
farther, but the darkness, which could almost be felt,
wrapping us in made further progress impossible. We
dropped our anchor, hoping for the best, but before
daylight we were fully aware we should be left stranded
high and dry.

I always carried distress signals with me, and now in
desperation lit one. The red glare blazed out, lighting
everything round. About ten minutes later I lit
another. After six had been burnt, apparently from
nowhere I heard a hail. We searched the impenetrable
blackness but could see nothing. Again came the hail.
It seemed almost under our bow, and, peering down,
we could see two natives in a little dug-out. I really
felt like embracing them.

They came on board, and I ejqjlained to them the
difficulty we were in, and found that, had I tried my
hardest, I could not have chosen a worse place to enter
the river.

” Can you possibly get us out of this ? ” I asked
them.

They thought they could. On their advice, although
it seemed madness, I started the engine, and took the
wheel, while they sat either side of me, and with the
dinghy and their dug-out fixed astern, we slowly moved
off.

We now had an exhibition of the almost uncanny
sense of direction possessed by these two men. Going
dead slow, zigzagging first to port and then to star-
board, we seemed to turn almost completely round —
yet without grounding on we went. It was impossible
to see a yard in front of the boat, but these two natives,
with an assurance which was past belief, guided us

270 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

through the maze of sand-shoals ultimately into deep
water. After over an hour, they motioned for the
anchor to be dropped. Down it went in 6 fathoms. I
had no idea whether we were at sea or up the river,
but they assured me it was the latter.

When I wanted to reitiunerate them, these good chaps
were most unwilling to accept anything : civilised
peoples have much to learn in regard to brotherly love
from the simple natives whom they regard with a
certain amount of contempt as not being as cultured
as they are — ^which personally I consider a blessing.
After some persuasion I got them to accept some tinned
food, and with this they departed joyfully, promising
us that when we returned, which would be in a week
or two, from up the river, they would meet us and
pilot us safely out to sea.

CHAPTER XVII

THE MIGHTY CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO RIVER

We were all up at daybreak, and were astonished to
see that, having passed through the pitfalls at the en-
trance, we were now anchored about 50 yards off shore
in a broad deep river. The turgid current was running
out, and on the opposite side to which we were lying
broad mud flats extended for some distance. The river
here, I should think, was at least three-quarters of a
mile broad.

Early in the day we proceeded upstream. A very
short distance ahead on the left bank we came to a little
settlement. How people could ever live there was more
than I could think. They must spend their lives in
being eaten alive by the myriads of mosquitoes and sand-
flies that swarm here in clouds, and they can never be free
from malaria in sodden, wretched little thatched mud
huts. How they exist is a mystery.

They waved to us — our appearance was a break in
the monotony of their lives. We stopped and gave
them a few tins of corned beef, etc., their delight being
almost pathetic. Poor things ! and yet I have seen
sights in the slums of London, New York, and Paris,
the wealthiest cities in the world, that were infinitely
worse.

As we continued on our way, numerous small streams
ran into the main river, while the bush became denser
the farther we got from the sea. About 12 miles from
the mouth, we stopped at the entrance to a broad
creek, and getting into the dinghy with our guns, deter-
mined to row up and hunt for crocodiles, or whatever
else we might encounter in this virgin wild. Numbers

272 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

of small blue-and-white cranes continually flew back-
wards and forwards, while gorgeous coloured butterflies
and small birds flitted in and out amongst the bordering
foliage. With a rushing sound a flock of duck, very
like curlew, whistled close over our heads — so sudden
was their appearance that I had no time to use my shot-
gun, though they would have made a welcome addition
to the pot. A little later, densely packed, I saw more
coming, and this time I was ready for them, killing
seven with one shot. When retrieved from the water
into which they had fallen, we found several were pure
white, with the long curved yellow beak of the curlew,
while others were brown. I should think they weighed
over 4 pounds each, and no connoisseur could have found
fault with the feast we had afterwards.

We traversed this stream until it narrowed to such
an extent that we could go no farther, without seeing
a sign of a crocodile ; but on our return, creeping along
slowly, an ocelot dashed through the bush in full view,
but its movement was too rapid to enable me to get a
sight for the rifle.

After our return to the yacht, about two miles farther
on we saw another little opening, but there was no
mistake about what was lying on the mud flat at the
entrance. As we approached closer, up went a hideous
head, while a greyish mass slithered almost silently
from off the ooze beneath the water. We counted nine
thumping big crocodiles in all as we were approaching,
but when we arrived not a sign of one was visible. The
main channel here ran deep almost up to the banks,
and we anchored about i $ yards out.

“ We’ll not go up in the dinghy yet,” I said to Lady
Brown. ‘‘ Let’s have a little rifle practice from the
deck — ^they’re certain to return.”

As I spoke, with hardly a ripple to denote its stealthy
movement, the head and back of one of the saurians
appeared floating on the water like a log. It was only
about 20 yards away, and making up the creek. Sight-
ing for the head, I fired. We plainly heard the smash

THE CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO 273

of the bullet as it drove home, shattering the hard
bone. In a boiling vortex the reptile vanished ; the
head and the front feet rose again almost immediately,
then slowly it sank, quite dead — ^the expanding *303
had done its work. The water was very shallow where
it disappeared, and taking a rope in the dinghy, we
rowed to the spot. On the mud beneath the surface
it lay. It did not take long to get a hitch round it,
and afterwards with much difficulty we dragged it into
the still shallower water near the bank. The river
here is tidal, so, when the falling tide left the carcase
fully exposed, we were able to photograph it.

I had brought my rifle with me, so we paddled slowly
up the creek. There is a sharp bend about 300 yards
from where it enters the main channel, and as we
rounded this, behind some overhanging foliage within
SO yards of us lay three enormous crocodiles, basking
quite unsuspectingly in the sun. They had not heard
us, so stealthily had we crept up, and picking out the
largest, I fired. With a grunt it reared in the air,
sending the slime flying in all directions with its powerful
tail. It struggled violently to reach the water, but I
saw it was mortally wounded and suddenly ceased to
move. On getting close up it appeared to be a mighty
specimen, measuring nearly 22 feet in length. It is
curious what a foetid smell these reptiles have even
when alive, but the stench after they have been dead a
couple of days is overpowering. It is unlike anything
else, and is the most awful smell I know.

We continued up the creek, the scenery being really
beautiful. Several large coco-nut palms had fallen over
the stream, one which had dropped completely across
making a wonderful natural bridge. Flowering vines
and creepers had covered the trunk, and trailing to the
water formed a perfect arch of exotic greenery. Just
beyond this on some exposed gnarled roots we saw
another crocodile, but took no notice of it — we wanted
the really big ones, and rather despised a ten- or twelve-
footer.

18

274 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

The banks were rapidly narrowing here, and lily
beds stretched across what little open space there was
to navigate, until at last we found we could get no
further. The jungle appeared more open here, so we
landed, keeping a wary eye for the deadly bush master
snake, and the innumerable other dangers one usually
finds in the primitive wilds. Both of us carried guns
in our belts as well as a rifle, and of course we were
wearing top-boots and breeches — ^the person who at-
tempts to go through a jungle otherwise attired must
be a double-distilled fool. The leather of the boot gives
protection against snakes, centipedes, scorpions, as well
as considerable help against the ticks which infest the
more open country where long grass grows. We were
badly bothered here by mosquitoes — I think every single
classified member of the species occurs up the Bayano —
and it would really seem as if there were a host of un-
known varieties as well, but it is astonishing what one
can get used to.

After we had penetrated for about two hundred yards
we saw a family of racoons at play. They were going
through the most amusing antics, rolling over together,
jumping on top of one another, leaping into the air,
little dreaming they were being watched by a two-legged
animal. We left them in their happy state, though we
could have killed them easily.

On coming to a patch of marshy ground, the trail of
a large member of the cat family could plainly be seen.
It must have been a very large one — judging by the
size of its spoor a jaguar or puma, though here also can
be found what is known as the “ black tiger.” This
is not a separate species, but merely a melanic form of
jaguar.

There was nothing particularly interesting to be seen,
and there was no object in meandering round to get
eaten alive by insects ; we therefore returned to the
dinghy, and so back to the yacht. When we reached
the bend where I had killed the big crocodile in our
passage up, we ceased rowing and crept slowly down by

THE CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO 275

pulling ourselves along with the aid of the reeds and
rushes which everywhere overhung the water. Cuddled
in close to the bank we approached.

Ye gods ! what a sight ! The sun was now blazing
down from overhead, turning the slime on the flattened
bank into a species of hot mud-bath, and stretched out
full length were no less than fifteen crocodiles wallowing
and basking in blissful ignorance of oxir nearness.

" I really don’t know whether it is safe to fire at the
brutes while in this tiny cockleshell,” I whispered.

Robbie, who accompanied me, was quite certain it
would be madness — ^he had horrible visions of the reptiles
coming down en masse at the charge.

” No,” I said. “ I think the game is really too risky :
if we wounded one, the result would probably be dis-
astrous, and it’s no good taking unnecessary chances.”

When we came out in full view from under the bank,
these reptiles were certainly astonished, and made off
full tilt into the water. The rate at which these brutes
can travel is remarkable — ^though apparently so slothful,
when necessity arises their movements are rapid in the
extreme. One has only to think to realise this must
be so, otherwise how would it be possible for them to
catch fish, etc., on which they largely exist ?

After they had all disappeared, swimming ahead of
us, as we could see from the bubbles and mud they
turned up from the bottom, we followed. Close to the
mouth of the creek the bank on the right-hand side is
low and flat, with giant mangrove trees growing quite
80 to 100 feet in the air, but on the opposite side the
ground, steeply shelving, rises up about 8 feet above the
stream. As we drifted down, I noticed two or three of
the big reptiles had crept up the slopes, and were lying
asleep, almost covered by the dense bush on the top.

Standing up, I sighted as well as I could and fired.
At once with a loud crashing of undergrowth, several
shot over the edge, and with terrific plunges smashed
into the water, but the one I had aimed at remained
quite motionless.

276 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

" By Jove I ” I exclaimed, “ I've killed him stone
dead.”

We crossed over, and crawling up the side with
difficulty, cautiously approached the inert form. There
is no doubt I should have given it another bullet to
make sure — ^we were practically up against it when it
galvanised into life. We leaped backwards — I had no
time to plug it again, and doubt whether, if it had
attacked, we should have been able to save ourselves
from the onslaught, but fortunately it didn’t. With a
rush it went over the edge — crash into the water below
— ^my bullet had evidently only stunned it.

We were much shaken by this incident, for there
are no more evil-looking brutes in this world than
crocodiles or alligators, and to see this twenty-footer
suddenly come to life when we were almost on top of it
was enough to shake anybody’s nerves.

I have met many people in my life who have told me
they have never known what fear meant and were afraid
of nothing. I wished then that I were like them, for
I have certainly known fear. I think I am really a
timid man, and rather believe at times I have been
downright cowardly ; but certain it is that I can imagine
no more horrible death than being seized, carried be-
neath the water, and subsequently devoured by one of
these filthy reptiles. Of the two, I really fancy I
prefer the shark.

We did no more shooting. After getting on board
we sat drinking tea and admiring the beauties of the
river. As the sun set, innumerable birds from every
direction commenced to congregate in the mangrove
trees on the shore close to us. At last such numbers
assembled that every branch seemed alive with them,
the blue and white cranes, curlew-like duck, and crab-
catchers all making this their nocturnal resting-place.
Overhead numbers of parrots crossed the river, filling
the air with their curious medley of sound, and as dark-
ness closed in, the stillness and peace of the utter wilds
settled upon us. Fireflies and fire-beetles flew among

THE CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO 277

the trees and bushes, flashing like meteors. Every
now and then the heavy splash of a crocodile and the
harsh strident shrieks of a variety of night-birds would
jar the silence.

We were badly worried by mosquitoes at night —
such a pest were they that when we arose at day-
break we were not very much refreshed by our broken
sleep.

Before the sun sucked up the vapoiirs, a heavy miasmic
mist, like the steam of a Turkish bath, covered every-
thing. In the grey of the morning all things are grey,
and there was very little difference between the at-
mosphere and our own feelings. However, after some
good hot coffee and a substantial breakfast we felt
better, determined to have another day’s hunting, and
decided to row up to where we had seen the fifteen
crocodiles the afternoon before. Just before we reached
the place we came upon a low-lying bank on which lay
a big crocodile. Up till then it had not seen us, but
just as I was about to pull on it, off it moved. I let
fly, but did not see where the bullet struck, though I
knew from the surge of water and smashing of its tail
I had found my mark. As we rowed forward to look
for it, we were all three nearly shot out of the boat.
Right beneath us the crocodile, which had only been
wounded, rose, at the same time lashing with its tail,
flooding us with water — ^then came at us with mouth
wide open. Its dripping jaws were within a foot of
Lady Brown, who was sitting in the stern. The en-
raged brute, I thought, must surely seize her, and
overturn us.

I could not fire — she was almost dead in line, and
with the rocking of the boat it would have been madness
to risk it. With remarkable presence of mind, without
hesitating a second (if she had it would certainly have
meant death for her), she whipped the automatic
from her belt, and fired three times into the gaping
horrible mouth, and as it swirled away from the shock,
I snapped it with my rifle, and knew by the thud that I

BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

278

had got home. Lady Brown was as white as a sheet,
and I was shaking as if with ague.

“ My God I” I said, “that’s the nearest thing I’ve
ever seen ! If you hadn’t used your automatic, nothing
could have saved you.’’

The body had sunk out of sight, and try as we could
we were unable to recover it. We were much too
shaken to hunt further, so returned to the Cara.

That afternoon, from the security of the deck, we
killed no less than five and the next day ran up to
where the Mamoni River joins the Bayano. The former
has a considerable breadth and flow, but where it
enters the main channel beware ! For most unexpect-
edly, right in the centre, a great rock juts up. At high
water it is about 3 feet below the surface, though when
the tide falls the danger is fully exposed. When we
arrived here fortunately we could see it. It certainly
would mean the complete wreck of any boat that un-
knowingly drove on to it.

We went up the Mamoni for some distance, but
found nothing of particular interest. Anchoring that
night at the mouth, we returned next day to the creek
where we had so narrowly escaped death from the
wounded crocodile. I had had enough of shooting
here, but badly wanted to get some curlew duck, whose
favourite feeding-ground I knew was where the stream
narrowed, and went up after them in the dinghy. We
got about eight, and were returning when, floating up-
stream we saw a strange sight — & dead crocodile with
the yellowish white belly uppermost ; and perched on
it were nine vultures endeavouring to tear it open
from the vent. It passed close to us, the birds not
taking the slightest notice, or concerning themselves
in the least at our presence.

- “I wonder if that’s the brute that attacked us ? ” I
said.

Driving off the filthy passengers, we got hold of it by
the tail and pulled it to the shore. Sure enough it
was the very one — ^there could not be the slightest

CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO (p. 273)

Five of them, a day’s shoot, measured from iSI to 23 It

278]

‘ THE LITTLE CROCODILE CAME TO IJFE WHILE LADY BROWN WAS
HOLDING IT” (p. 279)-

THE CROCODILES OF THE BAYANO 279

mistake about it, for on prising open its jaws, inside
were the marks that were clear evidence of Lady Brown’s
automatic. We made up our minds to preserve the
head as a memento of our narrow escape. After a lot of
trouble I managed to sever it, though the stench was
abominable.

Just before we arrived back on the yacht I noticed in
some reeds the first really small one I had seen. Picking
up my shot-gun, I waited until we had crept up within
6 feet of it — ^then fired into the water close to the head.
As I had hoped, the concussion momentarily stunned it,
and we grabbled the little devil, and put it in the dinghy.

“ What are we going to do with it ? ” asked Lady
Brown.

“ I’m going to get a really good photograph, and want
to take you holding it — ^it’ll come to life presently.”

I showed her how it would have to be held to prevent
it biting.

We got the big head on to the yacht, and put it up
in the bow with Lady Brown sitting in the capstan.

Sure enough, the little crocodile presently woke up.

” Now hold it against you,” I said, ” and the camera
will do the rest,”

In the first photograph its mouth was shut, but in
the second it started to press against her, making a
thin wheezing noise. I got two really excellent pictures,
one of which is reproduced here, and as a reward for
its good behaviour we pitched the little beggar back
into the river. I don't think I should have done
so, for I hate the brutes, but Lady Brown seemed to
think it had earned its freedom.

CHAPTER XVIII

WE ARE ATTACKED BY RED BUGS — BATTLE WITH A
VERITABLE LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP

We now left for good and proceeded up the river, passing
where the Mamoni entered, giving the rock a wide berth.

About 2$ miles from the sea there is a little native
settlement called Jesus Maria, and a few miles farther
on you reach El Llano. But it was impossible to
remain at either of these places, our boat only being
able to reach there on top of the tide, and being obliged
to return as soon as it started to fall ; so we had to drop
down a few miles, and anchor close alongside the bank,
where there was always deep water.

The scenery here was truly exquisite. There was a
wealth of bird life — ^here seemed to be the home of a
rare crab catcher. I have never seen any birds’ plumage
more lovely than this. Paraquets and parrots were in
thousands, all kinds of cranes and herons, and quite a
number of doves.

The first day after our arrival we rowed up a small
stream that entered the main river quite close to us.
It would be impossible to do justice to the tropical
foliage and beauty here : wonderful palms, and trees of
every description, with flowering vines trailing from their
upper branches over a hundred feet down to the water —
on either bank the jungle seemed impenetrable. Fre-
quently the trees would completely meet above, form-
ing a dome of green verdure through which the sun’s rays
were hardly able to pierce. It was just like going
through a tunnel. It all has to be seen to be thoroughly
appreciated.

Every now and then we could hear something crashing

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 281

through the dense underbush, but it was quite impos-
sible to see what caused the noise.

We lazed away the entire day up this little river, and
on returning late in the afternoon I determined to go
out that night into the jungle with my spot-light as the
place where our boat was anchored appeared to be
fairly open.

As soon as darkness fell, with my rifle and two guns
in my belt I started off, but I had no luck. Several
times I flashed the eyes of a wild pig, and I think once
a jaguar (always called tiger in Central America), but
had no chance of aiming before they disappeared, so
tried again at daybreak, and had better luck, killing a
fine young pig, with which I struggled back in triumph.
After returning, we spent the rest of the day in wander-
ing about inland, seeing numbers of beautiful tucan
and other birds, and watching the jabbering monkeys
swinging from tree to tree. The gambols of these
human-like animals always interest me. Somehow or
other they never seem to go through the same antics
in the Zoological Gardens as they do in their natural
home.

As evening fell, a terrific howling and barking com-
menced on the opposite bank, to be answered away
in the bush on the side we were anchored.

“ Heavenly Powers ! what is it ? ” asked Lady
Brown.

" Howler apes,” I answered.

These are cmious-looking monkeys, the males es-
pecially having what looks like a full beard. They are
terribly human.

In the interior is also the home of the spider-monkey,
so called because of its abnormally long arms and legs.
I should think this would be a perfect paradise for
the zoological collector. I do not understand why
the London Zoological Society does not arrange for an
expedition to this part of the world, for it would cer-
tainly be greatly enriched by the specimens that would
undoubtedly be got, many of them, to my knowledge.

?82 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

being at present quite unrepresented in the Society’s
collection.

We had remained here for four days when we began
to suffer from an awful itch. The irritation was so
dreadful that sleep was out of the question. On the
fifth day Lady Brown developed fever, and by night
I was seriously concerned, her temperature rising to
103. By the morning it was over 104, and it required
no medical knowledge to see she was seriously ill.
Throwing caution to the winds, in the grey fog of day-
break I dashed full speed down the river, risking every-
thing, as I knew her life probably depended on how
quickly I could get her to the hospital in Panama.
A^en I arrived at the mouth, I was obliged to wait,
fretting and fuming, until the two natives who had
rescued us from our perilous position when we first
arrived could come in their dug-out and pilot us out,
but when clear of the sand-banks and reefs at the
entrance, I went ahead as hard as the engine could
drive.

Lady Brown was lying in the cock-pit, a truly pitiable
sight, her face so swollen that the eyes were completely
closed up, with arms and legs covered in a scarlet rash.
I was worried to death to know what infection we had
picked up. By now I was in much the same state
myself, and also suffering from fever, while the irrita-
tion, if possible, was worse than ever.

I wasted no time in going to Taboga, but ran straight
into Balboa, and got to the Santo Tomas Hospital as
quickly as possible. There they at once knew what we
were suffering from. The land up the river where we
had gone ashore musbhave been infested with a minute
tick, invisible to the naked eye — ^in the vulgar tongue
it is known as “ red bug.” They had got beneath our
skin in thousands, setting up tick fever and an intense
itch. It was over a week before the fever finally sub-
sided, and during this period we had scratched and
torn ourselves so badly that, so far as I was concerned, I
must have looked like Lazarus, while the marks re-

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 283

mained for weeks after. We both agreed they were
the most awful days we had ever spent. We also found
that it left us terribly debilitated, while for a long time
afterwards the fever returned every now and then,
being intermittent in its attack, much like malaria.

We had to rest for a full fortnight after this, doing
nothing but prowl about and collect shells and examine
the mysterious sea-life off one or two of the islands
in the vicinity.

Two years had nearly passed, and I felt it was time
to think of home. Much work would have to be done
before we could sail — ^all our collection would need to be
packed, passages taken, and arrangements made for
conveying the yacht to England. We had grown so
much attached to the little boat that she had become
like a child to us and any thought of selling her was
repugnant. We had weathered storms, run on reefs,
and been awfully close to death many times : there was
not a plank or article in her but was reminiscent of some
incident.

We agreed, before finally leaving, to have one more
go at the big fish. I shall always be glad we decided
to do so, because on our very last attempt we got a
veritable mammoth — ^far and away larger than any we
had previously captured.

I shall always remember the morning of the day we
caught it. You may try for big fish, but no matter
what your skill and knowledge of their habits may be,
their size is largely'a matter of luck. We had to catch
sand-sharks, as usual, for bait, and then I ran out two
of the big lines -with a generous slab of fish impaled on
each hook. It was a perfect day for fishing — hardly a
ripple on the water, and everything seemed propitious
and in our favour. We had not long to wait before
one of the big lines moved off, and after an exciting
struggle, I brought alongside another of our old friends,
the shovel-nose. This was nearly 14 feet long, and
weighed between 1,250 and 1,300 po.unds. I could
not help smiling when I thought that only a few months

284 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

ago I had become excited over a 300 -pounder, while
to-day this 14-foot chap left me quite cold, for I was
getting quite blas^ of sand-shark, shovel-nose, and even
saw-fish 1 I suppose one can become used to every-
thing after a time.

“ I should like to catch a real whale of a fish,” I said,
“on this our last effort.”

” We’re going to,” Lady Brown answered.

Now, my friend is very prophetic — I am seriously
beginning to believe that she is gifted with second sight
— ^and I had long ago, owing to the extraordinary coin-
cidences I had seen, come to believe in her prognostica-
tions.

“ What makes you think that ? ”

” Just a feeling I’ve got,” she replied. “ You see if
my words don’t come true — ^we’re going to get an
enormous fish.”

A feeling of expectancy gripped me and I watched
the lines carefully.

“ Here’s the big fish ! ” she called out. Sure enough,
the starboard line was slowly running out. So certain
did I feel that this was indeed the fish of my life that
I shouted to Robbie and the boy to haul in the other
line, taking no chances of an entanglement.

Creak — creak ! the end was reached on the capstan.
With enormous force the line was stretched out.

” My God 1 you’re right — it’s terrific ! ”

I had forgotten all about our anchor, but it did not
matter much. The yacht rode ahead, tearing it up as
if it did not exist, and now the Cara was being towed
by a real monster. Close in to the rocky point of
Taboguilla we passed— too close to please me, as I was
afraid the line might foul the sunken rocks, and oh !
how I wanted to land that fish ! It seemed reluctant,
however, to leave Panama Bay, turning slightly, and
heading for the main channel that runs in past Flamenco.
For about two miles it travelled in this direction, then,
swimming deep, in a semicircle it made towards the
island of Morro, some seven miles distant, but after

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 285

about an hour it swung more to the left, heading for
our anchorage at Taboga. The weight of the Cara
stopped us from going very fast, but whatever it was
it seemed well, hooked, and, barring any unforeseen
event, I felt we should win in the end. We were, of
course, utterly unable to guide this dogged, powerful
creature, but Robbie was awaiting the moment when
he could start up the engine, and if necessary, reverse
against it ; but for the present this was out of the
question, for powerful as our line was it would have
been burst like a piece of thread had we made an
attempt at any tactics of the kind.

The fish now started back towards Taboguilla.

“ It’s circling in,” I said. “ How these big fellows
always make for home again 1 ”

Past the sandy beach of the island we travelled, and
upon arriving off the rocky point, commenced in the
same direction as when we first hooked it.

" I wonder if it’s ever going to stop towing us round
Panama Bay.”

“ Don’t be impatient ; and don’t lose the biggest
fish you’ve ever hooked by getting out of temper and
tr3dng to force matters. Let it take it’s own time —
never mind how long; if you leave things alone it’ll
wear itself out, and in the end I’m sure you’ll land it.”

Sound advice, and I took it, and lighting my pipe,
sat down to wait for Heaven knew how many hours
before we could attempt to beach the fish. It was now
travelling in a circle, first towards Flamenco, then
heading for our Taboga anchorage, via Morro, and back
to Taboguilla, finishing where it was originally hooked.

“ I’ve never seen anything like it,” I said. “ I
wonder how much longer we’re going to be kept idle ? ”

As I spoke there came a jarring on the line. Hard
back it swam, doubling on its tracks, but fortunately
the yacht swung round in time to ease the strain.

We were now covering the same waters again, but in
the opposite direction. Quite unexpectedly the taut
line slackened, then hissed through the water in towards

286 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

us as straight underneath the boat the fish dashed.
Now surely something must give — ^but the tackle stood
the shock, though the yacht quivered as the fish was
brought up short. Momentarily it appeared to be
discouraged, for it commenced to sulk, moving very
slowly, only a few yards at a time.

Again came a violent agitation on the rope : by the
erratic motion and the strain on the capstan it was
clear what was taking place. The fish was struggling
madly deep down, twisting and turning to burst free.
How I prayed there would be no break, though I really
expected it every minute. I knew the hook must by
now be driven completely through some hard portion
of the mouth of whatever we had on, otherwise it would
have torn clear long ago.

The fish now shot ahead in a series of short rushes.
While it was swimming stolidly there was little need to
worry, but I was becoming more anxious each moment
— ^when up to the surface it came — a mighty saw
appeared, to be followed by a dreadful lashing of water,
and then deep down it plunged again.

" My God ! ” I cried, “ it’s a huge saw-fish ; but it
can't fight like this much longer, no matter how strong
it may be.”

It forged ahead afresh, but this time much slower —
it was plain to all of us the point of exhaustion was
approaching.

We were now close off the shore of Taboguilla.
Nearly five hours had gone by since we struck this
mighty battler, and the only excuse I can make for
what followed is that the long-drawn-out fight had got
on my nerves. With all the experience I had, or
should have had, from the numbers of great fish cap-
tured, it is incomprehensible why, against all common
sense, I should suddenly have been guilty of one of the
most asinine stupidities ever heard of. I conceived
the idea that as we were near inshore, by reversing
the engine we could work closer still, then join on
another line to that which held the fish, and fasten

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 387

the end to the dinghy, cast off at the capstan, and
rapidly row the dinghy ashore, fixing the now much
lengthened rope round one of the rocks, and so
gradually haul the fish to the beach. It seemed
quite practicable. We joined on a further hundred
yards and slowly reversed the engine, creeping astern
towards the beach. The fish appeared to have finally
surrendered, seeming utterly exhausted. Robbie and
the boy brought the dinghy round towards the bow,
whereupon I dropped the yacht’s anchor and stopped
the engine. Throwing the line off from the capstan, I
got quickly into the little boat, and we started to pull
towards land. This we had almost reached when,
with a violent jerk, the line tightened on the stern
of the dinghy to which it was fastened.

“ My God ! it’s off again ! ” I exclaimed.

We struggled madly to reach the shore, realising there
was nobody onboard but Lady Brown, who certainly could
not get the anchor up, start the engine alone, and come
to our rescue. Robbie and the boy were frightened to
death, for the little dinghy was being towed out back-
wards. Quite helpless, faster and still faster out to
sea we were being dragged. Freed from the encum-
brance of the yacht, our trifling weight was of no conse-
quence to the fish. We had shot about fifty yards
past the Cam when the dinghy, by reason of its being
towed stem first, slewed sideways, and turned turtle,
flinging the three of us into the water. For a minute or
two I. hung on to the partially submerged boat, which
now empty, though water-logged, would not sink, but
quickly realised the absurdity of this, for I was being
drawn away still farther from the yacht. Robbie and
the boy (both splendid swimmers) reached the Cara in
no time, and with Lady Brown’s assistance scrambled
on board, and I promptly followed their example.
From the deck we could see the dinghy disappearing
in the distance, bobbing up and down like a cork, and
getting the anchor up as quickly as we could, started
up the engine and raced after it. We soon caught

288 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

up, running close alongside. The oars had disappeared
— ^goodness knows where they had gone to — ^and at this
moment the bottom board parted company. Robbie
made an ineffectual grab with the iron hook as it
swirled past, but missed, and it was seeing him make
this attempt that gave me an idea. Regulating our
speed to the same pace as that of the fish, we reached
down to where the line was fastened to the stern of
the dinghy, and getting the iron hook round it, then
went ahead a little faster. By hauling all together we
managed to get the rope up, and fixed again round the
yacht’s capstan. Once more this giant fighter had
the yacht to tow, and we could have a few minutes’
breathing-s pace .

The first thing Lady Brown said to me was :

“ It serves you right ! You brought it on yourself —
it’s a miracle you weren’t drowned.”

It was quite true — I had brought it on myself,
though, thank goodness, no great damage had been
done.

We had saved the dinghy, which, in the meantime
still submerged, had been tied to our stern. The fish
as soon as it felt the weight of the yacht had scarcely
moved, so reversing the engine slowly, almost foot by
foot we worked back towards Taboguilla.

The tide was nearly full, and I decided to choose —
as once before — a. sandy spot, and using the utmost
care, nosed the bow of the Cara in ; but before doing
that we got the handle on the little windlass, and com-
menced to wind until we had retrieved about 1 50 yards
of the rope attached to the mighty brute — ^then, as the
yacht touched the bottom, we flung the spare line
overboard, Robbie and the boy jumped off, and made
it fast to some great rocks close to the water’s edge,
while I backed out, and anchored the yacht off shore.

Another quandary now arose — ^how were Lady Brown
and I going to land ? We had no oars with which to
row the little boat, but when I baled her out, we got
over this little difficulty by paddling with two flat

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 289

pieces of wood which I broke off an old box used for
carrjdng our potatoes.

After much struggling and working we finally manipu-
lated the fish into the shallow water, though how we
managed it I really don’t know. Of course every time
we got in a yard or two of line, we gave it a turn round
the rocks, while we had a breathing-space, otherwise
we could never have done it ; after which all we had to
do was wait until the receding tide exposed the monster.

Although we had first struck this fish early in the
morning, it was now round 4 o’clock, and I knew that
it was out of the question to take a series of photographs
and perform the autopsy that day, for it would be an
hour or two before the tide receded sufficiently for us to
get to work. There was nothing to do but go back to
Taboga for help, which was quickly obtained, the Cara
returning with a whole crowd of natives, and we all
commenced to haul.

The fish seemed quite dead, but to make sure, as soon
as its head appeared, I plugged two bullets into it, and
there was evidently some life left, for the saw reared up,
then smashed straight down flat with a terrific spank on
the water, while the brute gave two or three convulsive
shudders. Blood spurted several feet into the air,
dyeing the water around oily red. By wading out we
succeeded in getting a three-quarter-inch manilla rope
round the tail, and by stupeijdous efforts the fish was
finally beached.

By the time we had finished it was getting on towards
dark. I knew the carcase was in no danger of being
torn to pieces during the night by vultures, but that it
would be necessary for me to get there at daybreak to
drive off the swarms that would be certain to congregate.
The big fish was now so high up that only a very small
section of it would be covered when the water was full
in, so it was safe from the depredations of shark ; and
like this I left it, to commence work as soon as it was
light.

It was a colossal fish. I had not yet ascertained-the

19

290 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

weight or measurements, preferring to wait until I
could make one job of it.

We were on the scene at daybreak, and found the
huge bulk intact. As soon as the sun rose we got a
series of photographs, measured and ascertained the
weight. It was 31 feet in length, 21 feet in girth ; the
saw was 6 feet 5 inches in length, and its total weight
round 5,700 pounds. When this was finished I com-
menced the autopsy.

At once I saw that it was a female fish, and on opening
it, as I suspected, I discovered it to be the mother
of a large family. They wer^ contained in a double
womb, situated on either side of the stomachal wall, and
behind the liver, which was simply enormous. The
ovarial attachment was pale yellow in colour, and upon
opening, the viscous substance appeared almost exactly
the same as custard. Each was separately attached to
the mother by a cord — ^in all there were thirty-six
foetal saw-fish.

I believe that for some time it has been a point for
discussion among scientists whether a saw-fish develops
its curious projection after birth or before ; or, if born
with the saw, whether the teeth on it evolve at a later
stage. The discovery of these embryonic young now
settled the question definitely. Saw-foh are born with
both saw and teeth. Nature, by covering the sharp
projections on either side with a membranous covering,
obviates in this wonderful way all irritation which might
be caused to the womb. The saw itself, in proportion
to the size of the foetus, is very large, and quite flexible.
After close examination I came to the conclusion that
this membranous covering shrivels back from the teeth
after birth, leaving them fully exposed, but still remains
on the hard bone of the saw.

Apart from the thirty-six young, placed higher up
was a quantity of ova, graduating in size, the largest
measuring 14I inches in circumference. They appeared
to be in series, each section becoming smaller the farther
up it stretched.

390 ]

FCETAL SAWFISH ATTACHED TO OVA (p. 291)

290]

A LEVIATHAN OF THE DEEP 291

The photographs we were enabled to take show the
mother, the young attached to the ova and, after they
were removed, lying on the carcase. In this latter
photograph the light in places penetrated the membrane,
and in one or two instances plainly shows the teeth ;
while another photograph shows the size of some of the
ova which we are holding in comparison with that of
our hands.

I was able to preserve the foetal saw-fish in spirits,
and found on retxum to this country that neither the
Royal College of Surgeons Museum nor the South
Kensington Museum had any specimens, and was glad
to be able to present them, together with a series of
photographs.

CHAPTER XIX

A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURIOUS HABITS OF FISH

WE RETURN HOME

I SHALL now give some of my practical deductions
following close observation of fish extending over a con-
siderable period and embracing various species. It was
only by actually capturing and, performing autopsies
that this was possible.

There is undoubtedly an immense field for research
work in this direction, which might easily lead to many
important discoveries, with the probable result of much
benefit to the human race.

My medical knowledge being very small, it was largely
through the good offices of Dr. Casey, who, as I have
already said, came from Texas and stayed with me for
some time. Pathologist to the Santo Tomas Hospital
and to the Government, at Balboa that I was able
to establish various diseases in fish.

Quite a number of the shark family, and principally
the shovel-nose, suffer from osteoma. The following
is an extract from a letter I received from Major Bo-
cock, Medical Corps, U.S.A., and Superintendent of
the Santo Tomas Hospital, which illustrates how I was
able to identify various diseases :

“ The portion of the spinal column of a shark which
you left with me charged with the request that the
tumour-like growth appearing thereon should be ex-
amined microscopically to determine whether or not
this abnormality might be malignant in character, I
now wish to inform you that the laboratory has reported
as follows upon the new growth :

292

OBSERVATIONS ON CURIOUS HABITS 293

‘ Gross note. — K mass consisting chiefly of ‘ spongy ’
bony tissue, with areas more dense in character.

“ Microscopic report. — Osteoma, well calcified bone
with cellular structure and that appears normal.

“ From the foregoing report you will observe
that the pathological mass found upon the spinal
column of the shark is not malignant in char-
acter, and is in all probability a tumour of benign
nature.”

As I previously mentioned, the shark I caught in
Kingston Harbour disclosed one of these growths.
On discussing this question of the local rigidity of the
spinal column undoubtedly produced by this, there is
little doubt that, certainly where the growth occurs,
the spinal column being no longer flexible, a species of
paralysis must result, which would change the feeding
habits of the fish, as it could no longer possess the con-
siderable speed necessary to capture its usual prey —
i.e. other fish. It is possible also that by destruction
of nerve centres which lie along the vertebrae,
fish madness might easily result. I noticed parti-
cularly that all sand and shovel-nose sharks suffering
in this manner were of abnormal girth. This could
not possibly have been a coincidence, as there were no
exceptions.

The healing power of the flesh of these fish is most
remarkable. I have caught them with gashes, and even
great chunks torn out of them, which one would have
thought must have resulted in death — ^yet nature has
healed and restored them to their full \atality. In
several cases the pectoral fin was severed from the body,
and in one instance the tail had completely disappeared,
leaving only a stump. In the terrific fights they
engage in no doubt many are killed, but it is quite
surprising what a large percentage of maimed fish
I caught.

Not once did I discover the head or nose exhibiting
old wounds — ^their method of attack therefore cannot

294 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

be a head-on charge, otherwise I should certainly have
found evidences in the form of scars.

On several occasions I have found, apart from spinal
growths, both large and small watery tumours, some-
times singly, and again as many as five or six, attached
to the wall of the stomach, and in female fish also in
the womb. Again on several occasions, not only with
sharks, but also once with tarpon and once with red
snapper, the autopsy disclosed a repulsive-looking growth
which really appeared malignant. It is impossible for
me to assert that this was cancer, but its appearance
was highly suspicious.

The liver of the shark, which occupies the greater
part of the interior, frequently shows signs of disease,
but I was unable to discover anything about this. In
sand-sharks particularly a form of ichthyoid tuberculosis
is very prevalent. I carefully kept records of loo
captures, and found nearly 8o per cent, of the females
affected, whereas the males were very much freer, just
over so per cent, suffering from this disease.

Some time ago, after an article of mine in the Daily
Mail on the tope (a small species of shark inhabiting
the waters round Great Britain), Punch rather pulled
my leg. The writer warned people to be careful of
being bitten by them, as fish suffered from pyorrhoea,
etc., and I really think this was what first caused me to
examine carefully the teeth and jaws of all fish I cap-
tured. I am not suggesting that fish suffer from the
aforesaid trouble, but what I do assert is that in several
cases I have seen a curious disease one might almost
call it inflammation of the jaw tissue (analogous to our
gums) in which the roots of the teeth are embedded,
and also once the bone itself had become eaten away ;
but whether these injuries were caused by biting on
something abnormally hard or not it is, of course, im-
possible for me to say.

The jaw strength of all fish is tremendous — ^there is
certainly nothing on land to equal it. Even compara-
tively insignificant inhabitants of the sea are able to

294 ]

NOSE RAISED TO. SHOW TEETH (p. 295).

OBSERVATIONS ON CURIOUS HABITS 29s

do considerable damage. The greatest care should
always be exercised in removing the hook from the
mouth of a fish, while, apart from the ray, there are
quite a number that have sharp bony spikes pro-
jecting outward, which in several cases are highly,
poisonous.

Spanish mackerel, and to a lesser degree corbina, un-
questionably suffer from trichina, the appearance of this
disgusting white worm being very similar to that so
well known in swine. I remember on one occasion in
Panama my hostess was expatiating on the fine Spanish
mackerel she had bought that morning, which we were
to have for lunch. Under the pretext of being interested
in their size, I examined them. They had already been
opened and cleaned — sure enough, where cut in half,
several of the worms were exposed. Just before the
meal was served I felt very unwell, and unable to eat
anything — ^for reasons which will be appreciated ! As
a matter of fact, after one has done little else for nearly
two years but perform abdominal operations on fish,
one doesn’t exactly yearn to eat them, especially after
what I had seen !

I was able on several occasions to witness the way
sharks capture their prey. Contrary to popular belief,
they do not turn on their back or side when opening
their mouth to seize any object, but dash straight for-
ward at immense speed. The nose rises just before
striking, disclosing the teeth fully bared. These,
which are ordinarily enclosed in sheaths, correspond-
ing to the rows of teeth, and in much the same
fashion as a cat’s claw, are exposed at will. The
photograph shows how, as the nose rises, the teeth
are in evidence.

I recently saw a picture in a well-known paper which
described a “ true and remarkable feat.” It showed a
man fighting a shark in the water — one arm was com-
pletely round it, the other upraised, holding a knife
as if about to plunge it into the fish. To the ordinary
observer it was, no doubt, a wonderful and thrilling

296 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

photograph. I showed it to several people, and asked
them if they noticed anything ridiculous about it.
They examined it carefully, but could see nothing
wrong, until I pointed out the fact that this marvellous
fish had no dorsal fin — an excellent example of how the
public are fooled.

The big jack, in feeding on live mullet, etc., which are
usually close to the surface, dash at their \dctim
with a great bursting and smashing, the spray flying
in every direction, frightening the fish so badly
that no doubt it is utterly bewildered, and is then
easily seized.

I have seen tarpon leap into the air after a
jumping fish that was endeavouring to escape ; but
I have no knowledge of how the saw-fish captures its
prey — ^it is possible its saw may have something to do
with it.

A moving object is essential to catch barracouda —
either a live bait, or trolling with a big spoon.

To me one of the most interesting studies of all was
the method of propagation of the various members of
the shark family, saw-fish, and ray. The ordinary
method of spawning is so well known that it is unneces-
sary for me to describe this, except to say that the ova
after being deposited by the female are immediately
afterwards fertilised by the male, and the then ferti-
lised eggs, left to themselves, in due course hatch out
immature fish ; but with the shark family the modtis
operandi is totally different. One might almost say
they are surprisingly human.

The male shark is provided with two arms or claspers,
situated either side of its genital organs. In the female
these are absent, but she is furnished with two small
flat pad-like fins, which, no doubt, afford protection for
the female part.

During the breeding-season the method of copulation
is very similar to mammals, and the spermatozoon of
the male, impregnating the female, fertilises the waiting
eggs within. During the period of gestation which

OBSERVATIONS ON CURIOUS HABITS 297

follows, the young sharks form within the womb of the
female shark in exactly the same manner as a child does,
and — ^like the tiny saw-fish I have already described — ^in
due course are born a perfect miniature reproduction
of the mother and father, and at once swim close along-
side the mother, as little pigs follow the sow or chickens
the hen.

Unlike the saw-fish, which is born with saw and teeth
complete, on first coming into the world they have
no teeth, the interior of the mouth being perfectly
smooth. These evolve subsequently, and here again
I must destroy the belief that the number of rows of
teeth in a shark denote its age, for the jaws of one I have
brought home, which only weighed 8 or 9 pounds, ex-
hibit precisely the same number of teeth and rows as a
fully grown adult of the same species.

Both female and male guard their young for some time
after they are born, in much the same way as the male and
female swan, who are nearly always seen together with the
cygnets ; and to my knowledge, in the case of the shovel-
nose shark, when danger is at hand, or on the little ones
becoming tired, they are actually taken within her
mouth ; as I pointed out before, the teeth only being
exposed at will, the interior is otherwise perfectly
smooth.

I removed some young sharks from the womb of a
female (Lady Brown can be seen in the photograph
holding up two), no doubt shortly before they would
have been born naturally, and when I afterwards
placed them in the sea, they were able to swim
away, apparently none the worse for their premature
birth.

Both the whip- and sting-ray bear their young perfect,
and in the embryonic state they are most curious-
looking objects. The vitahty of the shark and ray is
almost past belief. One one occasion Dr. Casey opened
the belly of a sand-shark from the vent to beyond the
gills, after which it swam away vigorously, though of
course it would not live. After removing the heart.

298 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

which is three-chambered, from freshly caught shovel-
nose, tiger-, white, or sand-sharks, it continues to pulsate
for about twenty minutes. The photograph shows
Lady Brown and Dr. Casey examining a still pulsating
heart removed from a big shovel-nose.

The tenacity of life of the sting-ray has to be ex-
perienced to be really understood. This was explained
in an article I wrote for the Daily Express some time
ago.'

After firing several bullets through the head, pulping
it with a heavy log of wood, and completely severing
the body, each half still retained life.

The muscular movement of the shark family is also
very curious. Many times after performing an autopsy,
when the fish was to all interests and purposes quite
dead, on severing the spinal cord, I have seen the
tail thrashed upwards in a spasmodic jerk with
considerable force.

I have had exactly the same thing occur with a big
alligator, although it was to all intents and purposes
quite dead. This took place when removing the head
from one killed up the Bayano River.

Careful scientific research in this vast field, I am
convinced, would yield extraordinary results. The
United States Government have realised this, and are
collecting data which I believe are already producing,
apart from their scientific value, excellent commercial
results.

An expedition ought to be organised in Great Britain
for this purpose, and the cost of it, I feel assured,
would be repaid many times over by the knowledge
that would undoubtedly accrue.

Anyone taking a deep interest in the more primitive
forms of life both on land and sea must keep an open
mind and be prepared to receive rude shocks, as it is
more than likely their preconceived ideas of creation
will suffer badly. It is useless to rail against the theory
of evolution when every day one has ocular demon-
stration of its truth. It is no work for the bigot or

OBSERVATIONS ON CURIOUS HABITS 299

religious fanatic — ^many long-cherished illusions are
completely shattered when faced by the damning
facts which can be seen every day in the primitive
wilds.

Nothing is more absorbing — ^nothing more wonderful
or elevating than to see nature in her virginal grandeur.
It is then that the mystery of gigantic forces of which
we know nothing are brought home to us, leaving us
aghast -at our utter ignorance. We return bigger,
greater, broader-minded — yes, and I can even add
cleaner from being cradled in the bosom of the great
spaces.

Our work was finished, the big collection packed, and
we sailed from Taboga to Balboa. After spending a
little while at the International Hotel with Mr. and
Mrs. John McEwen (two of the salt of the earth), we
bade the President and a host of other friends a good-
bye which left rather a lump in my throat.

Accompanied by Lady Richmond Brown and Sir
William Cunningham, once more we made the passage
of the Panama Canal from the Pacific to the Caribbean.
At every lock many people assembled to wish us fare-
well, and the help I received from the United States
authorities at Colon smoothed my difficulties in getting
the yacht over to England. A sort of wooden dock
was built for her, with steel hawsers attached, and in
this their great 7S-ton cranes raised her from the water,
ultimately to be lowered on the decks of the Holland-
American boat Kinderdyjk.

Lady Richmond Brown travelled home on one of
the Royal Mail steamers, but I elected to stick to the
ship. My black scoundrel Robbie also accompanied
me. He refused under any circumstances whatsoever
to be parted from us. I think he still believes his
mission in life is to look after us over here as he did -in
the wilds.

When I ultimately arrived at Southampton, owing
to the courtesy of the Customs officials, the big collec-

300 BATTLES WITH GIANT FISH

tion was got through without difl&culty to London,
to be thrown open to the public through the kindness
of Mr. Gordon Selfridge.

Whether I shall go back, who can say ? The insistent
call of the wilds is very strong. I make no plans. On
the lap of the gods be it 1

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